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Wrong, there will be a big difference, as you remove many grams from the front (motor, gears, diff, joints, bearings etc)...

You can also use this http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=9005735 which allows much more suspension travel because it is not as thick as the gearcase, so steering links dont touch it when used with longer shocks.

Also no problem at all with steering angle, no dogbones will pop out...

Finally it has other geometry and provides better steering.

Have a look at my RWD Mighty Bull which is my favorite truck, huge suspension travel, very lightweight and fast to the point you cant control it at full throttle...

post-21426-0-05773900-1445245500_thumb.j

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I did a couple of conversions, build 4 rwd daggers for my niece, nephew and godchild.

upload_-1.jpg

handmade dampermounts, oilshocks, ballbearings, beefier upperarms, steel pinion, 35T motor, tire foams.

Also had a go at some driver figures.

IMG_20150926_152506.jpg

and made a custom servomount

upload_-1.jpg

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Me neither. I was rather hoping that we'd see a WT-01 Monster Beetle II.

When I first started the hobby again at the end of last year I was really disappointed they still didn't produce the monster beetle. So I picked a platform that was the current equivalent which was the wt01 mudblaster 2 kit, then fit a lexan beetle body and finished it in monster beetle box art.

Looks great, handles brilliantly and is super tough.

20150128_154823_zps0c8bb36e.jpg

Here's my build thread...

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75485

Since this pic I've fit an interior, driver and rear scale baja bug engine. Soon to come will be the re-re gold wheels which will be fit using an adapter.

When you mentioned the shock lengths and difference it makes here's a picture of the standard suspension under full compression and after with larger shock towers and 100mm length shocks. The difference before and after is night and day, much better.

Before with standard shocks fully compressed...

20150128_132654_zps5d614dc4.jpg

After with 100mm shocks and larger shock towers fully compressed....

20150128_153556_zps73c92fcc.jpg

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Hi, what brand are these dampers please?

Are them gold or orange?

Max

20150128_153556_zps73c92fcc.jpg

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Wrong, there will be a big difference, as you remove many grams from the front (motor, gears, diff, joints, bearings etc)...

You can also use this http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=9005735 which allows much more suspension travel because it is not as thick as the gearcase, so steering links dont touch it when used with longer shocks.

Also no problem at all with steering angle, no dogbones will pop out...

Finally it has other geometry and provides better steering.

Have a look at my RWD Mighty Bull which is my favorite truck, huge suspension travel, very lightweight and fast to the point you cant control it at full throttle...

Ok, i had a look of the chassis and now i understand what you mean with "steering links touch it when used with longer shocks".

The steering links touch the gearbox if i use longer shocks and the suspensionarms/wishbones are fully extended.

So i thinkin of getting the part you recomended. can i use the original Dagger wishbones/suspensionarms with this part??

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Ok, i had a look of the chassis and now i understand what you mean with "steering links touch it when used with longer shocks".

The steering links touch the gearbox if i use longer shocks and the suspensionarms/wishbones are fully extended.

So i thinkin of getting the part you recomended. can i use the original Dagger wishbones/suspensionarms with this part??

yep it all fits, is a direct replacement for the gearbox. the lower arms are slightly more tilted backward if i remember correctly.

You can mount the original bumber or the bigger WT01

attention blurry picture

upload_-1.jpg

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Hi, what brand are these dampers please?

Are them gold or orange?

Max

Hi max. They are either a very deep gold or orange. I can't remember now, the colour in the picture looks pretty accurate to how they really look. I think I bought them from a place in the uk called blacksmithproducts. They also sell on ebay too. After a quick look I found these which look very similar. Hope that helps.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/orange-108004-HSP-RC-1-10-4WD-08041-Aluminum-Shock-Absorber-Upgrade-100mm-/151708626041?hash=item235289ec79:m:mGH01u3VmrbVeCxmapzVBmQ

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Indeed - the WT-01 front bulkhead does feature a bit of kick-up compared to the WR-01 gearbox, which translates to castor, which translates to better handling.

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My (originally a Twin Detonator I think) chassis is now RWD, and my most frequently used car.

I made a really annoying video of it recently. Turn up your speakers for ultimate cheesiness. Watch how the whole vehicle squats under power, I really need to counter this. It would result in more successful wheelies!!

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Nice ride, since i have my re-re Montero i wanted it to make it a "Jurassic Park Pajero" with the Brat wheels, but i will see where it goes....

Back to Daggertalk:

I think i will keep it 4WD just for the beginning.

To Counter the Problem with the steering links, i think i?ll take a threded rod cut it into lengh abd bend it into shape, so the gearbox won`t get in the way of the steering link......

Edit:

Now is saw that build i don`t know where My future project will go:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=68472&id=7734

Thats very very nice, so i think, maybe i shouldn`t have buy the shocktowers, but maybe a similar project with the aluminum shocktower are even a better ride.

Maybe i should put it all into a box and hide it and wen i discover it in the future i`ll start istantly building something like a "nice build".

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I have 2 of those 2WD front boxes...

My son has a Dual Hunter, my truck is a Blackfoot converted to 4wd, and my daughter has a Blackfoot with a Parma Beetle body tisll in process of going to 4wd.

We like using them in the snow and I have found the 4wd helps for this. I need to finish her car up so we can run them all again.. Mine is setup like the Amarok with narrow swing arms and WW2 tires..

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The 4WD WR-01 and the 2WD WT-01 both have their pros and cons. Simply put, the WR-01 is better at clambering over things relatively slowly, and the WT-01 is better at jumping over them quickly. Ideally you'd have one of each, and run them as mood and conditions dictate. :)

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I have a Quesion aboiut Screws.

 

The Screws  that are marked in the Picture are getting loose all the Time because they uncrew during the up/down Travel of the Arms.

 

dagger.jpg.0fcdc403bfe05e4febd335516622edf2.jpg

 

 

 

The Screws that are used at the Moment are These Kind of screws:

I would need to use similar screws with a longer unthreaded part that Slips through the Plastic and the alloy Shocktower.

screws.thumb.jpg.145c56b76747dd072d4770663716f02e.jpg

 

 

What Screws would you recomend for using? I don`t find any usable Infos.

 

 

PS:

Sorry about my terrifying bad english, i really didn`write anything in english since about a Long Long Time ago.

 

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Edit: these might work Tamiya - 9805573 second from left

mchEY2AwRcZ2D3a-p3D0rElLsvxhWEebbaIRwzoG

 

I replaced the screws for the following, its quite bombproof,

The lower stepscrew is Tamiya - 9808289

I drilled the lower holes to 4mm and threaded the upper holes in the chassis with an M3 tapper

MQBqDpTVXhzYYZkf5o6I4CoD_1GhH2PPfEUxSJFL

but you might have to replace the upper arms as well.

tccoZOOgZs7sk1yDzmV-CuRfAmBQTgUOwT4_iOEL

mYF8YOfxSSZkhTK1BWUXa5m8PMHgHULk4In9JiDN

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Sorry to resurect such an old thread but I could not find any satisfatory answer to my question : can someone tell me what are goods CVD or DCJ shafts for the WR-01/WT-01 chassis (apart from GPM) ? I would like to get rid of dogbone jumps when steering is fully locked in.

Thanks in advance for your help !

Regards
G-rem

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Hi. You can go with the df03 ones I think, #53791. But if I remember well when you use afremarket arms these may be 1 or 2 mm shorter compared to dogbones.

Topcad also used to make some decent ones. Everything else is crap.

Thanks

Stamatis.

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Just now, stamatis said:

Hi. You can go with the df03 ones I think, #53791. But if I remember well when you use afremarket arms these may be 1 or 2 mm shorter compared to dogbones.

Topcad also used to make some decent ones. Everything else is crap.

Thanks

Stamatis.

Also please look for 72mm kyosho driveshafts. They are awesome but hard to find too.

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Thanks for your reply Stam !  

I will go with these for a first try : http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/df03015sp-spring-steel-shaft-tamiya-df03-wild-dagger-twin-detonator-double-blaze-force-p-4739.html

If they fail, I'll buy the Kyosho LA257 : https://rc.kyosho.com/en/la257.html

Why I do not take the Kyosho first : I would like to see if the fitment is enough with the Yeah Racing, hopefully it fits perfectly ;)

Cheers,
G-rem

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