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Mrmoots

Sand Scorcher front uprights

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Hi

I am currently rebuilding my original sand scorcher I had as a teenager.

I have brought some replacement ball plates but didn't realise that the re-re uses larger balls than the original. Looking on eBay etc the re-re front uprights look a lot beefier than my originals. Is there enough meat in my originals to drill and tap to receive the larger hex head balls from the re-re?

Also anyone know where I can get the hex head balls, part number 53968 from in the UK asap? I was hoping to take the sand scorcher away to Wales this coming weekend for some beach fun!

Thanks

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Hi Dave

The white plates are fine, I will just need to drill the holes out slightly in the swing arms to get them to fit.

It's the balls that thread into the steering arms that's an issue, on my original they are smaller in diameter and have an M3 thread whereas the re-re replacements are M5.

I think I have already answered my own question as measuring the steering arms tonight it will be very tight to get an M5 thread in there and not significantly weaken them.

Thanks

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My 2 cents... you're better off using original parts.

Of course, if you're just bashing or don't care about modifying the model, then you can do whatever you like, and go crazy with custom mods - and use whatever parts.

But if your goal is to guarantee an exact, original fit of parts. Or to enjoy the nostalgia and originality aspect of the model. Then: never compromise by using reissue parts.

If my previous two sentences sound like you, then subbing-in reissue stuff makes little sense. Original parts packets are often a lot easier (cheaper) to obtain, after a reissue anyway. In some cases, they are even as cheap as reissue parts.

I respect the fact that not everyone wants to pay say, $30 for something, if they're on a tight budget and can find the reissue part for $15.

But I do think it comes down to personal preference. My argument will forever be: YOLO. Save up another week or two, and get the authentic original.

An oft-overlooked advantage to this is, if you ever decide to sell the model one day, your advertisement will be:

"100% vintage original Tamiya!...<insert model name>"

Instead of:

"Partially original, partially reissue...I changed this, and that...and that....". Many collectors will immediately tune out by this point.

I buy lots of old stock from overseas these days, and the amount of vintage original parts that I don't buy even though they are dirt cheap (because I have no need for them) is still enormous (and it makes me wonder why anyone spends the money they do, on reissue stuff, when originals are still out there for reasonable prices).

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If you choose to go with the bigger ball then you will need to drill you suspension arm for the ball to fit through. I found this issue with my Ranger anger thankfully received lightly used original from a fellow TC member...problem solved... Ask the guys some may have some originals lying around their bench.

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Though I would love to keep it all original, I also want to use the car so am happy with a few modifications, upgrades and keeping costs realistic is my aim.

I ordered some hex head balls as used in the re-re. From the description in the re-re instruction sheet of 5mm x 5mm I assumed the balls were therefore 5mm diameter and an m5 thread, hence my original post as the originals balls have an M 3 thread.

Now that I have received them I can see they are an m3 thread and the measurements refer to ball diameter and thread length.

So really all is well and I needed of not even started this thread.....

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This it so far, I know it doesn't look anything special, but I am happy with it

image.jpg2_zpsyshbnz6l.jpg

I have used stainless steel bolts throughout, new bearings and got a CRP shock conversion kit for it.

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