The new DB-01 RRR

[brandycmc 0]

I've just taken the plunge and bought the newly released DB01-RRR.

I'm relatively new to RC (after 30yrs!), and I wanted a high-spec 4WD basher and to be able to pretend I could take it racing if I wanted

And the RRR seemed to fit the bill and be quite good value.

I've just finished the chassis build, and have transferred some basic brushed/NiMH electronics across from my DT-03 to do some indoor check runs.

But I want to try out LiPO for the first time - and also take the opportunity to see how good today's fast 4-pole brushless motors are. So I have in mind:

• Trackstar 4-pole 4850kV motor
• Hobbywing 120A ESC
• A mid-range Turnigy digital servo
• LiPO 3S (Turnigy nanoTech, or similar)

I do have a couple of questions for other DB01 owners.

1. Firstly, how does the above seem feasible (if a little overpowered)?
2. And secondly, how big a LiPO battery can you fit into the chassis? 139x45mm seems the maximum footprint, but how high can I go? 27mm looks very possible, especially with the flatter carbon strap. But has anyone fit in a 30+mm square LiPO?

thanks

[Dojo Dave 889]

I've just taken the plunge and bought the newly released DB01-RRR.

I'm relatively new to RC (after 30yrs!), and I wanted a high-spec 4WD basher and to be able to pretend I could take it racing if I wanted

And the RRR seemed to fit the bill and be quite good value.

I've just finished the chassis build, and have transferred some basic brushed/NiMH electronics across from my DT-03 to do some indoor check runs.

But I want to try out LiPO for the first time - and also take the opportunity to see how good today's fast 4-pole brushless motors are. So I have in mind:

• Trackstar 4-pole 4850kV motor
• Hobbywing 120A ESC
• A mid-range Turnigy digital servo
• LiPO 3S (Turnigy nanoTech, or similar)

I do have a couple of questions for other DB01 owners.

• Firstly, how does the above seem feasible (if a little overpowered)?
• And secondly, how big a LiPO battery can you fit into the chassis? 139x45mm seems the maximum footprint, but how high can I go? 27mm looks very possible, especially with the flatter carbon strap. But has anyone fit in a 30+mm square LiPO?

thanks

Sounds like you'll be doing summrsaults on acceleration

[brandycmc 0]

Hmmm. Too torque-y, you think?

Would going to 2S LiPOs be enough to tame the beast? Or do I also need to rethink the motor?

thanks

[94eg! 834]

4wd won't do somersaults. They are too heavy at the front end. They tend to shred the drivetrain instead. But you will be safe considering the RRR has a slipper clutch (though the clutch might not be safe). Just keep in mind that the more power you have, the more difficult the car will be to setup. This is because the slipper will need to dissipate more energy. With great power comes great throttle-responsibility. So long as you're not mashing the throttle, the car will live. This holds true for any car. Pro drivers understand that they have more power on tap than the car can handle and therefore know how to apply it properly to create fast laps without destroying the drivetrain.

Good luck!

[94eg! 834]

BTW: I fit a 7200mah Intellect in my DB01 chassis (modified first version chassis). I'm not sure about the latest lipo version chassis, but you can always use a dremel to trim any nubs and add clearance. A small hole had to be cut at the back corner of the body to clear the squareness of the body, and allow it to sit flush against the chassis (how I like).

[qatmix 794]

The motor / esc bundle is not really suited to the car. You want a sensored 120a esc and a 6.5 turn sensored motor. Also the RR will not fit a 3 cell lipo in the chassis. If you manage to squeeze it in then it will be quite badly balanced and it will ruin the handling.

[InsaneJim69 1584]

As above, 6.5T brushless system is plenty fast. I run a Speed Passion Reventon Pro ESC along with a Vampire Racing 5.5T motor with a Turnigy 6400 Ultimate lipo and its plenty fast enough during race meets in the 4wd unlimited class. Again as above, more power will just make it fast in a straight line and ruin the balance and handling of the chassis and being honest straight line fast isn't any fun at all. Getting a good balance so that the car turn, rotates and pitches all in a manor that is to be expected.<br /><br />Super Gripper gave me some great tips for the DB01R that has helped alot with balance, like running the chassis with alot of rake. Similar to the red bull f1 cars, high rear chassis ride height and lower front chassis ride height. Give fantastic turn in response and stability. If you need any tips he is your man to ask as he has raced DB01's here in the UK for a while now with a very high success rate.<br /><br />James.

[94eg! 834]

Yes, if you plan on building a top level setup, then just mimic what the pro's use in top level 4WD competition. There is no way to put down more power than whatever they are using in a given chassis (otherwise they would be using that instead). Then you can save some money to spend on spare parts after you blow the thing up with your lack of skills & reserve. lol

6.5T sensored @ 7.4v with a 120amp ESC is more than enough. 5.5T is the limit of 4WD buggy, and still too much unless you have a professionally prepped high-grip track with the perfect tires to match and proper suspension setup.

[EddScott 134]

Can anyone tell me what the differences are between the RR and the RRR?

Quite fancy picking one of these up but not sure which one. The RR appears to be more expensive.

[94eg! 834]

These are limited edition kits and the RR is out of production...making less of them available and therefore more expensive. The RRR is readily available and therefore less expensive.

Over the RR, the RRR has....

- Black alloy parts for some weird reason

- Less rear toe-in for better cornering (but sacrafices straight-line stability).

- More front end kickup to handle bumps better (but probably sacrafices something else)

- Lipo-brick compatible chassis to fit bigger lipos and sit them lower in the chassis

- TRF Fluorine sealed ball bearings

- A new style CVD without grub screw

- 12mm hex hubs and matching wheels

Of all these differences, I think only the chassis tub and sealed bearings really make it "better". It sure saves a ton of time from having to grind out your chassis tub to fit a big brick lipo. BTW: Also, if you never try to clean off the dust from those bearings, they will last forever (unless you crush them with a big wreck). Attempting to clean them off WILL push grime past the seals and ruin them.

[EddScott 134]

OK cool. Thank you. Will pick up an RRR.

[Roasty 16]

Evening guys

 

is the DB01 RRR still a good car or have Tamiya brought out a new 4wd. 

I want an Egress but I'm worried about not being able to get parts in the next year or so and this was my other option for a Tamiya 4wd.

Thanks

Ross

 

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

For current Tamiya 4WD buggies, the main choices include:

• re-releases like the Hot Shot, Egress, etc.
• modern base kits like DF02, TT-02B, and DB01
• a few modern kits with hop ups included, such as TT-02B MS and DB01RRR
• TRF503 full race-spec kit

The DB01RRR is about as close as you can get to a TRF without actually owning a TRF.

[94eg! 834]

As far as a driving experience goes, the DB01 will be like a scalpel compared to the butter-knife that is the Egress.  The difference in precision control is NIGHT & DAY!  If you love driving and tuning, the DB01 is far and away your best bet.  If you like models on the shelf, and occasional driving, then the classic looks of the Egress may be ideal.