GregM 1109 Posted September 24, 2015 Prologue: This is how my first Holiday Buggy ended in 2011. Poor thing. --- Welcome to my DT-02 Holiday Buggy build with narrow track and Sand Scorcher wheels. Let's get things straight first: I won't show you the basic DT-02 build and how the basic modifications are done, since Stevo309 and ChrisHix wrote detailed How-to guides with lots of pictures. I started the build back in 2012 and didn't took any photos back then. But what I want you to show is where I deviated from the guides, as well as bodyshell decoration. These are the two guides I'm referring to: 2010 Holiday Buggy the vintage way... Written by Stevo309: http://www.tamiya101.com/article_2010_holiday_buggy_modified.asp HB2010 narrowing mod - Written by ChrisHix: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=108826&id=28455 Basically I built the lower arms according to Stevo309. The rear drivetrain was upgraded to DT-02 club level spec with splined diff outdrives, but I retained the small 380 type motor for ease of cheerful driving. The lower rear arms, hubs, driveshafts and axles are TL-01 items. I did not used re-re Frog rear axles, since they won't match the TL-01 driveshafts well. Instead, Team CRP FX10 rear axle adaptors help with lengthening the axles to accomodate the 3-piece wheels. The yellow CRP hubs are similar to stock Sand Scorcher black plastic hubs but have a larger central hole to fit the adaptor through. This let the wheels mount fine without the need for additional spacers. The front is way more complicated. The lower DT-02 arm was chopped as per Stevo309 and ChrisHix. The front shock tower was built from HDPE as seen from ChrisHix. HDPE is easy to carve with a hobby knife, and thankfully the same goes for the lower arms. Just make the first rough cuts with a handsaw or very slow rotating tool with an appropriate attachement (Dremels are usually too fast thus melting the plastic) and then take your time with the knife for creating a neat surface. The HDPE shock tower makes a surprisingly sturdy impression once attached to the chopped front bulkhead. The Sand Scorcher front wheels are so small that they will clash with pretty much everything. They will hit the steering knuckle ball mount and even lower arms when turning. I tried Hornet steering knuckles as well as Super Astute steering knuckles, but they won't allow enough steering and the issue with hitting the lower arms still persists. So eventually I used Mad Bull long steering knuckles along with some spacers. It seems like the Sand Scorcher 3-piece wheels weren't meant for use with bearings initially, as the middle piece rubs against them. I'd suggest slightly enlarging the central hole to let the bearings run freely. I wanted to use Tamiya C.V.A. II oil dampers instead of the friction dampers. The dampers themselves came from a runner car, so they look rather beat up. I serviced them to get all dirt out and put in fresh oil and o-rings. Nothing wrong with the friction dampers, but the CVA dampers allow adjustments, can be mounted with ball ends and are less bulky, allowing more suspension travel. Usually, I avoid step screws and 1-piece ball mounts with integrated threads wherever possible. I like ball collars and ball mounts with separate screws better. To let the dampers clear the lower arms, shock towers and upper camber links, I had to use several types of spacers, e.g. washers and cut down brass tubing. Not a very elegant thing to do, and thus not that pleasing to the eye when looking at the rolling chassis, but I tried my best to retain strong screw connections that withstand running the car. I still need to fiddle around with the rod links to get camber and toe angle right. Also I've got to try different types of springs and ride height spacers to get the ride height slightly lower, maybe some weight in the correct places helps. The rear shocks need some more spacers (here: old damaged o-rings) to limit suspension travel against rubbing on the rear fenders on full compression. I am pleased that the overall suspension travel is still good despite the shorter track. No binding in the driveshafts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted September 25, 2015 The image links were broken, I corrected them. Somehow, I can't shake the feeling that the Sand Scorcher wheels look a bit... on the small side. Well, this may be imposed by the ride height - still too high, but will be lowered for sure. But there's one other thing I'd like to know about: How large are the outer diameters of the Buggy Champ / Rough Rider tires as well as the vintage Holiday Buggy tires in comparison? I also wish I could bring the rear wheels more in line with the center of the rear fenders. Just flipping the rear lower arms won't help, since I'd be missing the damper mounts. I think I should try cutting down the DT-02 rear arms and mount them up for comparison, even though I fear they might not clear the rear wheels. And oh yeah, I've got a re-release Sand Scorcher front bumper somewhere in my spares. I'd also like to attach a wire rear bumper (homemade with bent wire). This is how it would look like: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=104974&id=280 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
s2-g2 432 Posted September 25, 2015 I like that rear bumper idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted November 21, 2015 More progress pics from bodyshell decoration. I started with the decals. Ah, those stripes. Anybody familiar with the Holiday Buggy knows what a pain the fender decals are. If you have a look at on Youtube, you'll see he put those decals at the car's backside instead. Here's a good trick to make positioning your decals easier by cutting away only a small portion of release paper in the middle first. A dab of grease helps with the screws when mounting the additional body parts. Test fit on chassis. I will follow with the driver and cockpit, a wide Buggy Champ bumper and mesh to cover the holes in the bonnet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted June 6, 2016 Be prepared, there'll be an update this week. I finished painting the driver and cockpit, now where's that dashboard decal gone... grrr. Pictures coming soon! I also thought about putting together a parts list for your convenience, once I'm done with the whole conversion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted August 7, 2016 Did I say "this week"? Aaaanyway, here's the promised update ] The driver is done! I gave him a proper paintjob instead of just relying on the prepainted head that came with the kit. I also did careful shading for the hair, face and even the torso. . [/url The holes in the bodyshell are covered using stainless steel mesh and glued to the polyethylene using hot melt glue. So, what's next? 1. I still got to do the retro style front and rear bumper. 2. Black stripes on the rear window. 3. Adjusting the wheel camber. 4.Installing the chassis cover. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted October 15, 2016 As it turned out, the camber angle was just fine as it is. Just a little negative camber doesn't hurt, I guess? Today I attached the black stripes to the rear window using d-c-Fix vinyl sheet. It's certainly a bit thicker and not as sticky or flexible as Tamiya's own vinyl decals, so time will tell how good they stick on the Holiday Buggy's problematic polyethylene bodyshell. I also attached the front bumper, which is a re-re Buggy Champ/Sand Scorcher front bumper, cut down and mounted with self tappers onto the stock bumper. Maybe I'll re-mount it up a little higher. I then gave the car a test run. The 380 type motor turned out to be quick enough for my liking. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted April 16, 2020 Hi guys, please enjoy these new photos I took today. Holiday Buggy in action: A look at the Holiday Buggy from a variety of angles: One for all those tire thread pattern lovers out there: My playground: 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Biz73 603 Posted April 16, 2020 Your front bumper is tucked up way further than mine. How did you mount it to the DT-02 bumper? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted April 16, 2020 Hi Biz73, I cut the Sand Scorcher front bumper's mounting plate generously so that it mounts straight to the front of the stock DT-02 bumper. Mainly for looks. If you'd prefer the body more protected, I'd let the Scorcher bumper protude farther and higher. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whahooo 465 Posted May 16, 2020 Are there any 3D print parts for the wishbones? I have a Holiday Buggy and a DT02 with a Sand Scorcher Body on it. It would be sweet if i could narrow the Track down al ittle bit. Only thing i´m little bit afraid of is tat the Handling could be worse... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted June 1, 2020 Hi whahoo, I don't know of any 3D printed wishbones. The modified DT-02 wishbones are strong enough to withstand running. The car's handling is pretty fine with the 380 motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whahooo 465 Posted October 27, 2020 I never done a narrowing of my Holiday Buggy, but i want to Narrow it. I have 2 Questions: Front: Is ist really nessecary to altering the front Shocktower? It seems that you can use the original Mount of the Shocktower and the original mont of the Wishbone, so you have only to cut the Wishbone and use a tierod. Rear: Is ist Possible to use TL-01 Wishbones? Why do all people change the Drivecups (for the Dogbones)? And what Dogbones do you need? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whahooo 465 Posted April 16, 2021 I ressurect this thread. Meanwhile you can get front Wishbone 3D Printed Parts. But for the Rear: Are the TL-01 Wihbones a direct fit? Do i really need new Drivecups? What Dogbones would i need? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites