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whahooo

My stock "Clodject"

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Today i finished a Ford Basherbody for my clod.

I will put Bigfoot #8/9/10 decals on it.

 

1621789870229-1417351997.thumb.jpg.0c5a9f029e6bbb6f87d5477ed16a2b7c.jpg

 

 

Sadly i think the Clod Body looks so much nicer....

 

 

1621789927967133303564.thumb.jpg.5e935b849c861ace35f0b92baf30d704.jpg

 

If i put theFord Body on the Bodypins, it looks like this:

 

1621790041274292492084.thumb.jpg.17a0374fa3c4a17c1a5fad1fdde3cc8f.jpg

 

The original Bigfoot do nut have the Chrome Bumper, so i don't know if i should remove it or let it stay....

 

What would you recommend?

 

And should i drill Holes for the bodypins?

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On 5/23/2021 at 1:18 PM, whahooo said:

Today i finished a Ford Basherbody for my clod.

I will put Bigfoot #8/9/10 decals on it.

 

1621789870229-1417351997.thumb.jpg.0c5a9f029e6bbb6f87d5477ed16a2b7c.jpg

 

 

Sadly i think the Clod Body looks so much nicer....

 

 

1621789927967133303564.thumb.jpg.5e935b849c861ace35f0b92baf30d704.jpg

 

If i put theFord Body on the Bodypins, it looks like this:

 

1621790041274292492084.thumb.jpg.17a0374fa3c4a17c1a5fad1fdde3cc8f.jpg

 

The original Bigfoot do nut have the Chrome Bumper, so i don't know if i should remove it or let it stay....

 

What would you recommend?

 

And should i drill Holes for the bodypins?

Jconcepts k2500 body looks very identical to the stock clod body if your not liking your current one.

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No no no, i like the new body.

But i think the Clod Body looks way more cooler! I love the clod.

 

But i also want to have a 2nd Bigfoot, because i have the Bigfoot #1 Body on my Dagger.

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Update:

The shell is stickerd up and the holes for the Bodymounts are drilled.

1641324677468706721650.thumb.jpg.77952ec894b674cede65fd21f6ef212c.jpg

 

16413247155062120456975.thumb.jpg.6224e4cb0420041c13aa64b23d4378bb.jpg

 

 

 

I have some spare Fordstickers, Firestone Stickers and  Bigfoot Stckers.

Any suggestions where i should put them?

 

16413248976492070017444.thumb.jpg.cf13c0f28c5f8b0acd44d10469082b93.jpg

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Looks good, one of my favorite Bigfoot paint schemes.  As for the extra decals, here's what I'd do:

-The small sheet from JB Scale Graphics goes on the tailgate of the truck.  Bigfoot fiberglass bodies did not run the traditional Ford tailgate, they just had the "Bigfoot Racing Team" graphic.

-Remove the stock Clod bumper and put the Ford license plate in the center of the Bigfoot body with two fog light decals on the outsides of the bumper.

Other than that the rest are just sponsor decals and up to you.  Check out my BF 11 TXT-2 for where I put the decals on the 93 body - https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=138259&id=49562

 

 

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Today i refilled the shocks with orange tamiya damperoil and filled the O Ring Part with green slime.

Sadly the Tamiya red O Rings are to big to fit.....

1641484027078-261542044.thumb.jpg.455daccda0a7d44ee4afea9d2508489c.jpg

 

The Tires are off, so i will try to show my anti sway bar.

 

1641484194155-911261170.thumb.jpg.c8524ccf96ab5974012e821a7d4030bb.jpg

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I drive 1 servo per axle and they are connected via Y-lead to the receiver.

When i drive the back is almost steering more than the Front.

In the Front i use the outer holes of the Servohorn and in the Back i use the inner hole (of 3 holes)

Is there a better solution?

Is there a Plug that could reduce the rear servo about 50%?

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Unfortunately there is no way to stop the rear from steering more than the front (or the front more than the rear when going in reverse), just simple physics.  The solution is to wire the rear servo into Channel 3 and either use a switch on your radio to control the rear steer independently of the front or use channel mixing to set the rate on the rear steer lower than the front, then the truck will steer properly.  I use channel mixing and run the front at 80-100% steering and the rear at 15-20% in most trucks.  Just enough to help get a tighter turning radius but not enough to upset the balance of the truck when the rear steer kicks in.  

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Thanks @87lc2   for having you in the forum, you are our Monster Truck Guy.

I thought maybe it would be possible to sioler some resistors or something into the Wire.....

 

I have a 3rd Chanel on my Receiver, but i think my Radio offers just 2 Channels (Absima GT 3.2). So i think i have to put a longer Servohorn on the front and even shorten the rear Servohorn a bit. I habe 2 HG 995 12kg Servos installed i think.

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I'm happy the info is helpful :)   Let me know if you figure out a way to lessen the rear steer without going to a third channel, I'd be interested.  It's really nice with a third channel though, having the rear steer set low enough to just help out the front without being too much really makes a 4-wheel steer truck drive nicely.  

 

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Pretty cool, never knew that existed!  Hope it works out for you.  It will drive like a completely different truck when you get that sorted out. 

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21 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

  It will drive like a completely different truck when you get that sorted out.

I´ve ordered one.

 

I hope it will be a big difference. I thought a lot of times about locking the rear Axle, but i did not cut the Tabs on the front one. My tires would rub the Latherbars (Letterbars? Letherbars?) if i would cut the Tabs.....

 

I´m also thinking of getting "good" servos. I just use the MG 995 Servos or something like that. They were cheap in a Pack of 5 and do have a lot of Tourque if you just know the servos from the 80s and 90s. They are also fairly quick. So i`m peased with them, but i dont`t know how good Servos feel.

 

I always had Acoms and Sanwa Servos that came with old Cars or Radios.....

 

 

Also i have to improve my Servo on axle Mount, it is a bit sloppy, because the 2 Bumperbars i installed didn`t fit in the 8mm Holes, so i put 7mm Tubes filled with 6mm wood rods in it.

So there is a 8mm Hole with a 7mm Tube because the 8mm  aluminiumrod didn`t want to go in with any Force i tryied.

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Yea, tires can rub the ladder bars if you have too much throw on the steering.  You should be able to use 70-80% front and 15-20% rear and it will be a lot better. 

I bought some of those  MG996 servos years ago but they are not very reliable, good torque but failed too often.  Look into the DS3218 Pro, I used them on all of my monster trucks.  Cheap, fast enough, and very reliable.  

I used the CPE axle mounts on a few trucks and they work well.  Just bought the Regulator mounts for my black race truck, hope to get them installed soon.  There are other axle mounts on Ebay (extreme racing I think) that work well.  

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37 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

I used the CPE axle mounts on a few trucks and they work well.  Just bought the Regulator mounts for my black race truck, hope to get them installed soon.

I use the special Servomounts designed by @MadInventor they look good and give you a stockish look. you almost do not see the Servo. But sadly his Template got lost and i did not saved it for recreate it for the next Truck......

 

 

...i have some Bullheads on my watchlist. But i don`t like the Bullhead, it is to tall and odd looking for me, but i like the red Chassis and teh yellow Bars.

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I've never seen the mounts by @MadInventor but I'm sure they're nice if he made them.  I prefer to get rid of the stock bumpers, not sure if that mount keeps them. 

I had a Bullhead but turned it into a Clod.  I like the coloring of the Bullhead like you said, but not a fan of the body.  

9.JPG

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You can see the Servomount in the Posts above.

 

I did let machine 4 of the Servomounts with the Template that got lost.....

The Template looks a bit like this and bolts on the 2 "U" shaped tubes that hold the original Bumper:

 

renault.jpg

 

 

Here is the original post:

 

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Oh OK, I see it now.  Nice looking mount if you want to keep a bumper, I like it. 

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@whahooo Thanks for linking to my work. Glad you like it. I will see if I can find the original dimensional drawing and repost it, and when I finish work I'll put up some pictures of it fitted to my lad's Clodbuster, a picture speaks a thousand words. :) Most of my postings older that a few years have lost nearly all the pictures as they were on the original TC photos website, and didn't get transferred over when it moved to the new system :(

 

PS Have now repaired the link in the old thread with a fresh image so it will work now.

 

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Here's the diagram:

Clod-Steering-bracket.jpg

and here it is on the truck. I chose to use steel tubes rather than aluminium ones.

SAM_2128.jpg


SAM_2129.jpg

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5 hours ago, MadInventor said:

@whahooo Thanks for linking to my work. Glad you like it. 

Like it?

I love it!

I think it gives the Clod that Original look. It's sleek but als very beefy at the same Time.

Sadly i couldn't fit an 8mm Rod in the reamed Holes and i do not own a Drillpress for redrilling it wider....

So i putted 7mm Tubes in it. The next time i get to work on the Clod i will try  to enlarge the Tubes with a bit of aluminumtape or Schrinkwrap or something.

 

Since i reinforced my steeringrods with a Carbonfibertube and Shrinkingtubes i love that shrinkingstuff.

 

1617535858308-1368168584.jpg1617535569411-99787924.jpg

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@MadInventor

 

As you know, i will let produce your servomount. Now I´m in the Process of ordering some Parts for my Bullhead. There are only Servos, the Y-Servocable and Decals in the Carolina Crusher Design missing.

To the Servos:

I want to order 2 Servos, i think i will go the 20kg MG 995 route again....  (because i don`t know if i need analog or digital servos and how many Tourque, but i think 20 kgs are ok)

But i have a question about that Y Cable....

I do not have my clod at Home, It is in our Holiday Home....

So i don`t know if i have to buy a special Y Cable or if i have to turn one of the servos upsidedown to get the right Steering. I know that the first time i installed your Mounts i had "Crab movement" and i don`t know if i ordered a special cable or turned one of the Servos upsidedown.....

 

 

 

 

Another Topi i want to solve is:

My clod seems to be very slow with the TEU-106BK ESC 2 GT-Tuned 25 Turn Motors and a 8,4 NiMh Battery.

Now i´m at home and i think i never calibrated the ESC with that motors on my present Radiogear. I think i had an other Radiogear in the past and switched it to the 2,4 ghz and only did the steering setup. I never recalibrated the ESC.....

So i will recalibrate the ESC the next time i test my Clod.

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35 minutes ago, whahooo said:

@MadInventor

 

As you know, i will let produce your servomount. Now I´m in the Process of ordering some Parts for my Bullhead. There are only Servos, the Y-Servocable and Decals in the Carolina Crusher Design missing.

To the Servos:

I want to order 2 Servos, i think i will go the 20kg MG 995 route again....  (because i don`t know if i need analog or digital servos and how many Tourque, but i think 20 kgs are ok)

But i have a question about that Y Cable....

I do not have my clod at Home, It is in our Holiday Home....

So i don`t know if i have to buy a special Y Cable or if i have to turn one of the servos upsidedown to get the right Steering. I know that the first time i installed your Mounts i had "Crab movement" and i don`t know if i ordered a special cable or turned one of the Servos upsidedown.....

 

 

 

 

Another Topi i want to solve is:

My clod seems to be very slow with the TEU-106BK ESC 2 GT-Tuned 25 Turn Motors and a 8,4 NiMh Battery.

Now i´m at home and i think i never calibrated the ESC with that motors on my present Radiogear. I think i had an other Radiogear in the past and switched it to the 2,4 ghz and only did the steering setup. I never recalibrated the ESC.....

So i will recalibrate the ESC the next time i test my Clod.

I think I've got a cable that reverses the motion of one servo. Will try and get time to have a look at it tomorrow

 

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