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zomboided

Dual ESC or Twin ESCs

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Are there any disadvantages running twin identical ESCs for a dual motor truck vs a single dual ESC? (I'm looking at 2x Quicrun 1060 vs 1 Quicrun 860)

Obviously there's a slight weight penalty, but I'll get over that. I'm more thinking about electrical disadvantages (battery drains noticeably quicker due to ESC efficiencies, motors could run at slightly different speeds, etc)?

Twin seems to be the way forward as the dual ESC effectively limits me to pretty low powered motors.

Don't really wanna go dual brushless in this model as it'll get too costly.

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Other than the tiny weight penalty and slightly more complex wiring, I can't see any disadvantages. In back-to-back comparisons between my WR-01 which runs two ESCs and my brother-in-law's WR-01 running a single ESC feeding both motors, there is no difference in runtime or performance, and as long as you calibrate both ESCs the same, they will spin the motors at the same speed.

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I guess with the hotter motors that a dual esc setup would allow, you will likely see reduced run times and you'd also need to hook up a Y lead back to the receiver signal and the same for the battery pack. XV are you running 540 motors with your twin esc setup?

Of course the advantage is potentially being able to remotely switch between fwd/rwd/4wd which is pretty cool.

I have a WT01 to build and was considering going the other way and running two motors off the HPI 12T esc using a twin motor lead, able to run the equivalent of 2x 24T motors. I would really liked to have run the Tamiya 23T BZ motors off that giving an 11.5T load which is more than the ESC is rated to but I wonder if there is any safety margin in those figures to play with!? That would keep me with one battery input but I wouldn't have the ability to choose between different drive modes.

Ideally a twin brushless set up would be supreme and would probably give you equivalent run times to stock as they're more efficient but it's all cost! VRDetailing is running his dual hunter on a dual brushless setup, think it was this one http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__25140__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_3520KV_80A.html , they looked reasonable vfm, I've no idea how reliable that esc/motor combo is, others could comment.

In fact, looking at the above, that would actually be cheaper than running twin Tamiya 23T motors, I think I may have to go home and rethink my life!

edit: just to add they do a whole range in 1:10 from 3000kv through to 5200kv which is actually cheaper??! http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__25139__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_5200KV_80A.html

Cheers

Nito

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Yup, this is a 4wd (and 4ws as of last night...) Blackfoot III question! Already running a Tamiya dual ESC, but want LiPo and want to go faster than the silver cans I have in there at the moment.

I went 13T equiv brushless in my Lunchie and it became too unusable. I've also seen brushless videos of a WT-01 online and it also just looked unsuable. So I'm now definitely out of the more-power-is-better camp and much more in the camp of matching-the-power-to-the-chassis. If I go brushless, it's gonna be ~20T equivalent.

Where my head currently is was to get a couple of 21T Atomik RC fireball motors which have the adjustable timing so I can zero them both, and then run it with a cheapo Quicrun ESC (or two) which should come out cost wise just a little more than a single brushless combo.

With XV Pilot's info there, it looks like 2 ESCs are the way forward over a dual as the 21T motor would be working the dual ESC too hard.

Thanks for the discussion gents.

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Also, do we think choosing between drive modes is practical? Surely you're going to have the additional drag of an unpowered gear box if you're in a 2wd drive mode?

I will say that swapping 4 wheel steer on the fly is awesome though - letting you crab or steer opposite is really neat.

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I run ordinary silver cans on my WR-01, as do my nephew and brother-in-law, to keep things fair when we get together and race them.

Here is a little video I made of my rig, with its two ESCs.

https://youtu.be/mPtn9wcfoWw

The ability to swap between 4WD, RWD and FWD isn't typically used for normal driving, which is best accomplished in 4WD. Rather, it is an aid to manoeuvring in tight spaces, where it might be handy to be able to spin up one set of wheels and skid the front or rear of the rig one way or the other. It is quite a popular feature on MOA crawlers, and fun to play with on a WR-01.

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There's a lot less drag on a brushless motor. From memory it's barely perceptible but I'd need to double check.

I have a WT01 video online running the 4300kv,

I wouldn't say it's unuseable at all but I'm running a jumbo servo up front, the weight of which helps to keep the nose on the ground. With dual motor this would quell wheelies even more. Funnily enough the kit I have to build is also a BFIII and I was also going 4ws. I recently just bought a Futaba 10J transmitter so the possibilities are endless :) , it's what I love about this chassis, with throttle mixing I should also be able to change the bias of front/rear power delivery, no idea how that would work out in practice though!

Cheers

Nito

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Yeah, it's a properly good chassis to work on isn't it. Love that I've been able to take it from rwd to 4x4x4 without custom work.

Here's the video I saw that made me conclude dual brushless was too much and that a warmish dual brushed setting would be fine.

XV, what's that controller you have...love the steering function.

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That's a good idea...my stock axle shafts are due for replacement now...

large.med_gallery_28308_3714_343632.jpg.

It's exacerbated when running higher than standard ride height.

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XV, what's that controller you have...love the steering function.

I use a Spektrum DX4S. It has pre-installed mixes for 4WS and MOA setups.

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I used 3s and silvercans on a 1060 with a split loom. Works great but I have a small 3s battery to keep run times low and a leave a big battery in the tray to keep some weight low. The only problem with splitting a single ECS is one motor can draw more power slowing the other.

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I used 3s and silvercans on a 1060 with a split loom. Works great but I have a small 3s battery to keep run times low and a leave a big battery in the tray to keep some weight low. The only problem with splitting a single ECS is one motor can draw more power slowing the other.

I had wondered why people generally just didn't split an ESC rather than buy a dually. I guess there's some balancing circuity in dual ones to prevent this. Good input, thanks Nobbi

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Thanks...interesting thread. Need to buy universal shafts now and think more about the motor situation.

I can recommend the ones from Tobee craft, those are beefier than Ts and GPMs

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Or you can use the dog bones from an Ofna Dominator with Mr T's hardened outputs and drive cups. I broke several cvd's with my Daggers (twin sport tuned and Lipo on 2 of them and 0 timed RZ motors with Lipo I the other).

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