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Posted

Sometime ago I needed a new ESC for my Grasshopper, in the end I bought a 5200kV combo. Needless to say its a bit silly.

I'll love the retro cool of the Grasshopper, but I need something a little more controllable and I don't have the inclination to modify to do so, even though there are loads of options.

I found they are a couple of Grasshopper shells on DT02's on the net, so gonna go with that, but I want to keep the grasshopper wheels and tyres. I know the rears will be hex, but I assume I can use my Grasshopper adapters.

EDIT: just occurred the rear wheels may be too small to go over the DT02 C hubs.

Cheers Butler

Posted

If you fancy something with retro cool looks that can handle a good bit of power while remaining controllable, have you considered a DT-01 "Grasshopper 3"?

The model Tamiya could have made but didn't, you could either take a Mad Bull and fit standard buggy wheels, or take a Mad Fighter/Fighter Buggy RX and add a Mad Bull shell. The Mad Bull shell as you probably know is a Grasshopper II shell with minor changes to the cutouts for the front shock towers, and relocated body post holes. Grasshopper II decals fit it beautifully.

Although conceptually similar to the Grasshopper, the DT-01 can be made to handle quite nicely with the addition of oil shocks and removal of slop from the steering. The central peg that locates the front of the motor/gearbox pod does away with the need for a 5th shock mod, and the laydown rear shocks give it the best rear damping and articulation of the Tamiya " pod'n swingarm" family.

Come to think of it, you could add yellow wheels and CVAs, and make something closely resembling that pinnacle of Grasshopperness, the Super G. You could call it the "Super G II"!

Posted

Cheers, yes I looked at a DT01 also. I think I am going to replace the chassis and gearbox plastics as both are badly cracked, and I notice the newer gearbox as a tab on it that effectively holds the front of the gearbox captive.

Then maybe I will look at modifying it. TA-Marks Grasshopper looks like a good one to copy.

When it comes to modifying I am good with nuts and bolts, and not so good with dremels and filler.

Posted

They are neither a direct fit on the rear nor on the front. Actually, there's a lot of modification work to do. Please see this thread for more information and pictures:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=77687

I'm surprised. I've used ball bearings alright in front Sand Scorcher/Frog/Hornet wheels without any issues, and I've put DT-02 wheels in a stock Hornet buggy once, no mods-direct fit no problem. Am I missing something in your writing?

Posted

Check your DT-02 steering knuckles. They'll hit the Sand Scorcher front wheels where the ball joints for the steering links are, no matter what. You'll have issues getting the front wheels turn freely. Another thing is that the steering radius is minimized, since the wheel hits the suspension arms. The DT-02 chassis is designed with modern large wheels and their offsets in mind. Using different (e.g. angled) steering knuckles won't help with the steering radius issue.

If you use the long Mad Bull front steering knuckles and spacers, you can be fine regarding clearance and steering radius. But the scrub radius is getting worse (I hope I used the correct word for it, if not please let me know).

The other way around, DT-02 wheels on a Hornet or similar, is super easy - no issues aside from needing a very simple adaptor on the rear wheels.

Posted

[...]

The other way around, DT-02 wheels on a Hornet or similar, is super easy - no issues aside from needing a very simple adaptor on the rear wheels.

That's what I was talking about :)

Posted

Oh well sorry about that. Yes, the ball bearings work somehow in unmodified Sand Scorcher wheels, but as soon as you tighten the wheel nut slightly down, there's noticeably more resistance. To make the wheels spin freely like they usually should, it is necessary to enlarge the wheel's inner hole diameter, preventing it from getting in contact with the inner ring of the ball bearing.

This issue is not present when using plastic bushings, since the whole bushing turns with the wheel on the greased axle.

Posted

Oh well sorry about that. Yes, the ball bearings work somehow in unmodified Sand Scorcher wheels, but as soon as you tighten the wheel nut slightly down, there's noticeably more resistance. To make the wheels spin freely like they usually should, it is necessary to enlarge the wheel's inner hole diameter, preventing it from getting in contact with the inner ring of the ball bearing.

This issue is not present when using plastic bushings, since the whole bushing turns with the wheel on the greased axle.

Enlarge the inner hole, for even better results use a spacer between the bearings.

You can cut spacers from brasstubes.

Here is a picture thats shows what i mean scroll to the bottom, it should be the last picture:

https://www.warehouseskateboards.com/help/Skateboard-Bearings-Buying-Guide

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