Orion sv2 motor

[Dazzerboy]

Hi guys, got a Orion sv2 motor, it also says on motor method 19x2. What would be the best esc to run with this, cheers

[Dazzerboy]

This is it

[XV Pilot]

A 12 turn ESC would give you plenty of headroom. I like the Mtroniks RV12 (or RV12 Assault for LiPo) and a lot of people like the Quikrun, although I haven't tried that one myself yet.

[94eg!]

A 19t will require a pretty decent esc. Probably something with a continuous current rating of 160amps. If you insist on tamiya brand, a CPR p160f is your only option with reverse. Also a tamiya volac will work but cost a fortune (and not have reverse). A 302bk probably won't cut it at 120amps continuous.

[Dazzerboy]

At the moment it has a 21t gear, shall I stick with that,

[Dazzerboy]

A 12 turn ESC would give you plenty of headroom. I like the Mtroniks RV12 (or RV12 Assault for LiPo) and a lot of people like the Quikrun, although I haven't tried that one myself yet.

what about a rv15. Would that be okay,

[XV Pilot]

It wouldn't give as much headroom, but yes it would work.

[Backlash]

XV Pilot and 94eg, would either or both of you care to explain why you are suggesting that Dazzerboy needs to use an ESC that has a 12 turn motor limit to run his 19 x 2 turn motor??

[94eg!]

Not sure what you mean. A P160F WILL cutout on a 14T motor with a small lipo in a 2WD buggy. A Volac brushed ESC has no limit (allegedly rated to 780amps continuous at the FETs). Neither is specific to 12T. I only illustrating the "Tamiya Brand" options that would work.

PS: Tamiya CPR units are not fun to drive with due to their "autobraking" feature. Get something better if you really want to drive the thing.

[XV Pilot]

In a word: headroom.

In the ideal world, a 19T motor would only need a 19T ESC to run it. However as most of us know, turn rating is at best a rough estimate of a motor's needs (and an ESC's capabilities for that matter) so to ensure reliable operation it is wise to over-spec the ESC relative to the motor, leaving headroom to accommodate increased current draw due to such things as taller-than-optimal gearing, tougher-than-optimal terrain, car getting hung up on obstacles, etc.

Also, with today's high-capacity batteries making very long runtimes a possibility, leaving headroom reduces the chances of the ESC reaching its thermal limit.

Typically I like to leave at least 3T worth of headroom between motor and ESC, so for a 19T motor I would say a 16T ESC should be plenty, but with a 12T ESC costing much the same as a 16T one, the OP may as well go for that instead. Then if he wants to try a different motor further down the line, he could safely go down to 15T (and maybe even lower) without any problems.