AMPro ORV Chassis Upgrades and...err...upgraded upgrades?

[Pintopower 1456]

4 minutes ago, Crash Cramer said:

Oh yea, well I TRIPLE DOG DARE YA. Bring your welder, the windshield surround needs replacing due to rust issues.

With the new Blackfoot diff I can drive the ORV to your house, no problem. 

 

[Crash Cramer 617]

Sounds great, see you in about two weeks, don't forget to install the solar collector onto the bed of your Blackfoot for perpetual charging.

[mr fog 22]

Does ampro do other cars like the jinmy, 

mr fog

[Finman 69]

Doesn't do the Jinmy but there are some m-chassis bits.

Click on the shapeways links at the bottom of his post.

Or https://www.shapeways.com/shops/AmPro

[Pintopower 1456]

On 11/17/2016 at 9:05 AM, mr fog said:

Does ampro do other cars like the jinmy, 

mr fog

Not yet but I need to look into those. Right now a few members on here make some great upgrades for them. What were you thinking?

On 11/17/2016 at 9:16 AM, Finman said:

Doesn't do the Jinmy but there are some m-chassis bits.

Click on the shapeways links at the bottom of his post.

Or https://www.shapeways.com/shops/AmPro

Thank you!

[Pintopower 1456]

Just whipped up a skid plate. Why I never thought of this until now I do not know. 

 

[Crash Cramer 617]

4 hours ago, Pintopower said:

Just whipped up a skid plate. Why I never thought of this until now I do not know. 

 

Well as anyone of my age would have to jump on your words, Thank you for paraphrasing Cleavon Little and "whipping" out such a neat little skid plate. How would you say it compares in price and structure to the old CRP bit that does the same job, or is it more tuned for the double wishbone rear end you have devised where the old CRP part might not work on an upgraded ORV?? I realize it is competition, but it would seem CRP made a crap ton of those skid plates as they routinely show up on the bay where other parts are not as easily found.

[RushRebel 98]

21 hours ago, Pintopower said:

Just whipped up a skid plate. Why I never thought of this until now I do not know.

 

Pintopower, how hard would it be to modify this into a brace to keep the side plates from flexing? I plan on running my Blackfoot on the beach (when it's built) and don't want to destroy one of those pretty new MIP units with sand. 

This is off-topic, but is there a specific brand of model glue you would recommend to place the FORD emblems you designed on the Blackfoot body? Something that will bond permanently. Thanks 

[Crash Cramer 617]

1 hour ago, RushRebel said:

Pintopower, how hard would it be to modify this into a brace to keep the side plates from flexing? I plan on running my Blackfoot on the beach (when it's built) and don't want to destroy one of those pretty new MIP units with sand. 

This is off-topic, but is there a specific brand of model glue you would recommend to place the FORD emblems you designed on the Blackfoot body? Something that will bond permanently. Thanks 

Hey there RRebel, I wish I could get EVERYONE to enter their location onto the forum  "profile" so there is a continuity in telling folks about a product like a glue or paint dissolver etc as in different countries the availability of things varies widely. That being said, I wonder if you simply "glued" the side plates onto the BF with a silicone for automotive use, most modern engines have plastic valve covers and other parts and so, there are silicone products that can seal off oil from escaping an engine and that might solve your sand issue. I would recommend some simple glue I found at Walmart, but not every Walmart carries it I have found. I think the product is extremely similar to something called Scenic glue formulated for train layouts, the viscosity is that of VERY THICK Elmer's glue all. That being said, you are able to still get it to come apart, but once this is set, it will not just dissolve away on the first run, it will take some time to thin out even exposed to water. I am currently using this stuff to glue Hot Wheels back together after I drill them apart. I am of course gluing plastic to metal, so it works as long as I allow it ample time to dry. I find it is dry when it is the clearest and no opacity is seen any more. I have also been able to go back and rip apart the Hot Wheel if I want to change something again, even after months of them being glued together. I realize some folks use epoxy and screws to put their HW back together, but since finding this stuff, I like it best as it is cheap(ish) and easy to wash off your hands and doesn't stick all that bad. Here is an ebay link so you can find some near you. I could say that the FORD letters could go on this way too, but maybe that would not be permanent bond, so I can't answer that one for you, but you could always try the same glue.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodland-Scenics-Model-Railroad-Landscape-Scenic-Glue-Adhesive-8oz-Bottle-/381595580522?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

 

[RushRebel 98]

Crash Cramer, Thanks for the reply but I think you misunderstood my questions to PintoPower. I was wondering how hard it would be for him to modify one of his skid plate designs to act as a diff brace for the ORV? I've seen were others have custom made plates, I was thinking of him maybe extending the skid plate up the sides of the transmission. 

As for the glues, I was wondering what type of permanent glue he'd recommend for attaching the FORD badges he designed to the BF body. You know, to make it look an original body and not a Super BF. Sorry for any confusion.

BTW, I live in sunny Pensacola!

[Crash Cramer 617]

2 hours ago, RushRebel said:

Crash Cramer, Thanks for the reply but I think you misunderstood my questions to PintoPower. I was wondering how hard it would be for him to modify one of his skid plate designs to act as a diff brace for the ORV? I've seen were others have custom made plates, I was thinking of him maybe extending the skid plate up the sides of the transmission. 

As for the glues, I was wondering what type of permanent glue he'd recommend for attaching the FORD badges he designed to the BF body. You know, to make it look an original body and not a Super BF. Sorry for any confusion.

BTW, I live in sunny Pensacola!

No worries Rebel, FLA huh, well it is a bit overcast here in Houston this week, but it is expected to hit 80. I suspect Pinto knows more about what you are asking than I do right now. The ORV chassis is something I have built, but more for the shelf than running yet. I bought the MIP diff for running when I get around to rebuilding my MB. I was just thinking of a certain glue that would "seal" up the metal plates to the gearbox and thus keep the sand out of the geartrain, as far as the outdrives go on the MIP Diff, well, I suspect some rubber boots to fit will be in order. Glue on the FORD badge, well, again, the glue I referenced would work, be positionable and dry clear(little glossy) onto the body and it would be rather tough for them to fall off like a model styrene glue from Testors or the like, but not as permanent as say a Super Glue. For reference, I have put simple Elmer's Glue All on my MB and BF tires in the past and after allowing it to dry overnight, gave the truck a run and the rims did NOT spin for quite sometime, but as we all know about the lack of a good diff in the old cars, the overspinning of one wheel or another eventually broke the bond loose, but pretty impressive for just Elmer's School glue that costs pennies.

[RushRebel 98]

On January 10, 2017 at 5:38 PM, Crash Cramer said:

No worries Rebel, FLA huh, well it is a bit overcast here in Houston this week, but it is expected to hit 80. I suspect Pinto knows more about what you are asking than I do right now. The ORV chassis is something I have built, but more for the shelf than running yet. I bought the MIP diff for running when I get around to rebuilding my MB. I was just thinking of a certain glue that would "seal" up the metal plates to the gearbox and thus keep the sand out of the geartrain, as far as the outdrives go on the MIP Diff, well, I suspect some rubber boots to fit will be in order. Glue on the FORD badge, well, again, the glue I referenced would work, be positionable and dry clear(little glossy) onto the body and it would be rather tough for them to fall off like a model styrene glue from Testors or the like, but not as permanent as say a Super Glue. For reference, I have put simple Elmer's Glue All on my MB and BF tires in the past and after allowing it to dry overnight, gave the truck a run and the rims did NOT spin for quite sometime, but as we all know about the lack of a good diff in the old cars, the overspinning of one wheel or another eventually broke the bond loose, but pretty impressive for just Elmer's School glue that costs pennies.

I wouldn't dare run an R/C with a $60 aftermarket ball diff on the beaches down here. The sand is very fine and has a consistency similar to sugar; I don't mind spending a few $ on a Tamiya gear set.

Houston, you say. That is one HUGE city. I drove I10 through there many times heading to San Antonio. Texas sure is beautiful country!

[Crash Cramer 617]

Sounds like a real rough issue to have, sugar fine sand. I grew up in San Antonio, so yea, BIG city and BIGGER State. I once had to hoof it from Houston to El Paso for a job and we took better part of 12 hours as we hit some traffic and at the time the legal speed limit on I 10 was only 65mph, needless to say the foreman got a ticket about 2am and told me to take over the last couple of hours. It sure was a long time in the truck.

[RushRebel 98]

2 hours ago, Crash Cramer said:

 

Crash, I'm originally from deep in the mountains of Southeast, Kentucky. I learned very quickly just HOW fine this sand is, and how it can get literally everywhere. Pretty to look at, but can be tough to deal with.

[Pintopower 1456]

On 1/10/2017 at 1:17 PM, RushRebel said:

Crash Cramer, Thanks for the reply but I think you misunderstood my questions to PintoPower. I was wondering how hard it would be for him to modify one of his skid plate designs to act as a diff brace for the ORV? I've seen were others have custom made plates, I was thinking of him maybe extending the skid plate up the sides of the transmission. 

As for the glues, I was wondering what type of permanent glue he'd recommend for attaching the FORD badges he designed to the BF body. You know, to make it look an original body and not a Super BF. Sorry for any confusion.

BTW, I live in sunny Pensacola!

Hey there, I wanted to reply about the side plates. You mention that you wanted the MIP diff but were also concerned about the deflection of the side plates on the ORV trans correct? If that is the case then I would not worry about the trans and those plates ever again. They MIP diff is fully sealed and does not require the aluminum side plates to hold the diff together. This means that the trans plates do not flex. Does that make sense? If I have missed something, please let me know. Thank you!

[RushRebel 98]

9 hours ago, Pintopower said:

Hey there, I wanted to reply about the side plates. You mention that you wanted the MIP diff but were also concerned about the deflection of the side plates on the ORV trans correct? If that is the case then I would not worry about the trans and those plates ever again. They MIP diff is fully sealed and does not require the aluminum side plates to hold the diff together. This means that the trans plates do not flex. Does that make sense? If I have missed something, please let me know. Thank you!

Thanks for the reply, I must not have been very clear with my initial question. I was wondering how difficult it would be to extend the ORV skid plate you designed, to go up either side of the transmission, and keep it from flexing? Since the Monster Beetle rere, I've seen folks on here use washers and other things as braces to keep the side plates from flexing and the original diff from "exploding." I plan on getting an MIP diff, but don't want to use it when running in sand. Hope that makes better sense.

[Pintopower 1456]

19 hours ago, RushRebel said:

Thanks for the reply, I must not have been very clear with my initial question. I was wondering how difficult it would be to extend the ORV skid plate you designed, to go up either side of the transmission, and keep it from flexing? Since the Monster Beetle rere, I've seen folks on here use washers and other things as braces to keep the side plates from flexing and the original diff from "exploding." I plan on getting an MIP diff, but don't want to use it when running in sand. Hope that makes better sense.

Gotcha! Well I did design it that way for the rear suspension I made. There is a bulkhead that braces the transmission and it works well but I have not thought of that since the MIP diff came out. I will need to cost it out. As for the MIP diff in the sand, I think you are better off running that in the sand over the Tamiya one. It is sealed better than the stock one but i absolutely feel your concern for something you paid $60 for!

[Pintopower 1456]

So who likes bump steer? Neither do I. Don't worry, I got this. Ill do an episode covering the installation and testing. Once complete, I will post the Shapeways link.

 This sucker is beefy...

[Frog Jumper 3663]

17 minutes ago, Pintopower said:

So who likes bump steer? Neither do I. Don't worry, I got this. Ill do an episode covering the installation and testing. Once complete, I will post the Shapeways link.

 This sucker is beefy...

 

 

Looks similar to the old blue Parma hop-up.  Nice work!!!

Terry

 

 

[Pintopower 1456]

Nice! Same idea. 

[Pintopower 1456]

Zero bump steer knuckles!

 

[Crash Cramer 617]

Nice hopping there at about 2:15

[Frog Jumper 3663]

Well, I think I've figured out how to fix my bump-steer problems!  Thanks Pinto!

Terry

 

[Pintopower 1456]

On 2/6/2017 at 5:16 PM, Frog Jumper said:

Well, I think I've figured out how to fix my bump-steer problems!  Thanks Pinto!

Terry

 

I do what I can!

[Pintopower 1456]

Rear body mount braces for the Mudblaster and Blackfoot. Stock and my double wishbone suspension variants. Next is the Monster beetle!