CC-01 1973 Ford Bronco

[Effigy3]

Thanks Chumley! Those are the same tires/rims as I and a number of others here use on our CC-01s. Over time they'll get a bit hard but that Dirt Refresher seems to bring them right back. They seem to be a great choice for this model and you can't argue with the price. I almost went with the Unimog body but the Bronco brings back childhood memories of hunting with my father so I had to go with it. I painted this to look as close to my memories of his truck as I could conjure up. I still need to add a license plate for it. I have the ink jet vinyl "paper". I just need to do it.

Thanks for the suggestion to check on the grub screw. I thought it was all the way in but it sure won't hurt to check. I just figured that noise was because of the ultra high turn motor I was using. Never had a 60T motor in a rig before. To be fair, I bought this off eBay as a roller. I did a thorough inspection of the build when I got it. IMHO the original owner did a fine job of building the chassis to manual specifications but something surely could have been missed.

[kirk13]

Great thread! Loved reading this. Looks like you've some great trails to explore. Really impressed by its ability to climb!

[Chumley54]

Thanks Chumley! Those are the same tires/rims as I and a number of others here use on our CC-01s. Over time they'll get a bit hard but that Dirt Refresher seems to bring them right back. They seem to be a great choice for this model and you can't argue with the price. I almost went with the Unimog body but the Bronco brings back childhood memories of hunting with my father so I had to go with it. I painted this to look as close to my memories of his truck as I could conjure up. I still need to add a license plate for it. I have the ink jet vinyl "paper". I just need to do it.

Thanks for the suggestion to check on the grub screw. I thought it was all the way in but it sure won't hurt to check. I just figured that noise was because of the ultra high turn motor I was using. Never had a 60T motor in a rig before. To be fair, I bought this off eBay as a roller. I did a thorough inspection of the build when I got it. IMHO the original owner did a fine job of building the chassis to manual specifications but something surely could have been missed.

I figured at that price, I'll replace them if they get hard. They had 96mm and 100 mm diameter for a couple of $$ more...I may try a slightly larger diameter. I know from reading these sites, that the 108 mm is big and would require modifying the chassis/steering. So I am sticking with what fits.

I have both diffs lockedm and the steering sucks. I will mod the C-hub (mine are GPM aluminum) for more turning. The stop is a screw with a brass spacer, so changing it shouldn't be hard.

[bullitt]

I was bitten by the Bronco bug over Christmas and ordered this body from RPP.

Harry

[Thommo]

Thanks for the suggestion to check on the grub screw. I thought it was all the way in but it sure won't hurt to check. I just figured that noise was because of the ultra high turn motor I was using. Never had a 60T motor in a rig before. To be fair, I bought this off eBay as a roller. I did a thorough inspection of the build when I got it. IMHO the original owner did a fine job of building the chassis to manual specifications but something surely could have been missed.

Love the thread. Just make sure that the transmission cover is tightened down securely, in particular the rear most screw on the top cover. The counter gear starts to walk and make some clicking if the cover is loose.

[XV Pilot]

I find it is a good idea to replace those screws with longer ones at the outset. Saves trouble later.

[Malcs RC]

Very nice mate

[Effigy3]

On 4/19/2016 at 9:54 PM, Chumley54 said:

I love the color scheme of the Bronco. In the vid, I hear a repetitive, speed related "knocking". It sounds like the grub screw on the pinion gear is hitting the spur gear...you may want to check that out.

So it's been a while since I messed with the Bronco.  Racing has been eating up my R/C time.  But today is a holiday and I have some time!  Turns out you were spot on with the grub screw suggestion. 

It's definitely hitting the spur gear and chewing it all up.  I can't tighten it down any more so I had to move it in on the motor shaft like so:

[Effigy3]

I have a ton of the silver colored self-tapping screws but I was only able to find 2 of the darker colored, longer screws in my bits box.  So I put them in these two positions.

I'll have to hunt down a couple more. 

[Effigy3]

I hit the muddy trails today and took a few pics along the way.

It's taking forever for the files to upload from my phone so I'll add in the other pics later.

[Effigy3]

Ok, lets get the rest of the pics posted I took yesterday.

[XV Pilot]

Great choice of angles and settings - very realistic.

[Mannyp1980]

Those pics look fantastic.

[ChrisRx718]

Looks awesome in those shots. The blue-ish light from those headlight bulbs looks a little out of place on the Bronco though, maybe some warm-white leds would look better?

[Effigy3]

Chris, I just used the LEDs that came in the kit.  I wouldn't know how to swap them out for warmer toned LEDs but I agree.  Period 1973 headlights weren't this blue.  I'm totally open to suggestions man.  What do I do?

[berman]

Try the #56400 halogen bulb set.

 

You could also drill through the gearbox where the screws for the top cover and run a 3mm machine screw and lock nut like some of us do, no chance of the cover lifting then.

 

Love the pics, those are 1.9's right? My pajero body (with cut guards is due for replacement and I am trying to figure what CC-01 body will suit the 1.9s without looking silly. Frewer over here has range rover but I don't like them particularly. 

 

:edit: Nm, just saw your post in the cc01 differences thread, 1.55 and kongs.

[Effigy3]

I finally got a CC-01 Aluminum Motor Mount ITEM# 54665

Not only is it more robust than the stock plastic motor mount, it also opens up more pinion options.

There are only two pinion options with the stock motor mount.

Installed onto my 60T motor and ready to be reinstalled into the chassis

Just have to put the cover back on and I'll be ready to hit the trails again!  

[Mannyp1980]

Looks cool.

[Effigy3]

It's been a while since I did anything with the Bronco.  I have a few updates to post about.  The first one is a steering servo upgrade.  I swapped out the Futaba S3004 for a Savox SW-0230mg.  I wanted a bit more torque, the metal spline/gears but mainly the water-proofing. 

[Effigy3]

I've also swapped out the HW Quicrun 1060 for the crawler specific 1080.  Mainly I wanted a drag brake and this ESC provides that along with a number of other programmable features.

Now if I could just get it to program...

[Effigy3]

The last change I made to the Bronco is the replacement of the stock plastic front brush guard with a more scale looking jobber from Integy.  I have not wired up the fog lights (yet).  I'm honestly not sure if I will. 

I'm personally not very keen on this brush guard.  It looks REALLY low.  Like REALLY, REALLY low.  For a scale look I kind of expect the top crossbar of the guard to be just above the top of headlights or at least close to that height.  Rather like this one:

Anyone know where I can source a brush guard that is closer to the bottom image?

[Percymon]

There are loads of that style bumper/guard for D90 and SCX10 chassis but very little for CC-01 fitting.

 

This one isn;t too bad (maybe better painted black ?)  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Custom-Rear-and-Front-Aluminum-Bumper-Guard-for-Tamiya-RC-1-10-CC01-Chassis-Jeep-Wrangler/32813515074.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.266.fKVSPr&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_10344_5560015_10342_10343_10340_10341_10192_10190_10307_10301_10303_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_5370015_10059_10534_10533_10532_100031_10099_10338_10339_10103_10102_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10324_10325_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_5590015_10111_10112_10113_10114_10179_143_10312_10313_10314_10184_5570015_10078_10079_10073-10102,searchweb201603_24,ppcSwitch_3&btsid=95ace82a-966a-4064-8035-b7a7bba4a9b4&algo_expid=330c5f16-b9ff-4b3e-bcb8-ab819fd51954-34&algo_pvid=330c5f16-b9ff-4b3e-bcb8-ab819fd51954

 

loads to choose from if you could make them fit..  https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?isrefine=y&site=glo&g=y&SortType=price_desc&SearchText=front+bumper&page=2&CatId=200002649&initiative_id=SB_20171005121320&needQuery=n&minPrice=5

[Effigy3]

Thanks Percymon!  That was more what I had in mind. 

[Effigy3]

I finally pulled the trigger on ordering the brush guard that @percymon suggested.  It hasn't arrived yet.    While I was on the bay ordering CC-01 parts I also got the JunFac CC-01 4-link suspension conversion with ski plate (J100210) and the Hardened universal shaft for CC-01 (J90027).

First, I removed the rear axle, links and drive shaft.

Then, I built up the JunFac links.  Naturally, I used a drop of blue thread lock on the metal-to-metal connections.

When assembling the link kit I noticed that my axle housing is cracked.    I guess I'll have to order a replacement.  I wonder if there is a metal one available.  I know Tamiya makes a chromed plastic one but I'm not sure how that'd look...

I'm going to run it as it for the time being.

I had to change the lower shock mount to accept the ball socket.  While I had the shocks mostly apart I refilled the oil reservoir.  It was low but not empty.  Pretty impressive considering it's been about a year since I got this rig.

Once the rear axle, links, and shocks are reassembled it looked like this:

I then moved onto the driveshaft.  The stock one is above and the JunFac upgrade is below as it comes out of the package.

Unlike the 4-link kit, at least the driveshaft came with instructions.  It called for a disassembly of the u-joints to lube them with some included "joint grease" and then to apply thread lock to the grub screws.  Instead, I used AW grease and anaerobic gell.

I then reinstalled the rear assembly and new driveshaft.

I have to say.  I didn't think these links would make that much of a difference but wow, they sure do!  The rear is now tight and buttery smooth.  I think I'm going to have to get the upgraded CC-01 aluminum shocks and barrel springs now.

[Effigy3]

I can't believe that it took me a year before I realized that the original owner of this rig built this one piece wrong.  Once I got the suspension all screwed down, and I flipped it on its wheels the drive shaft pulled out of the transfer case.    So I took it all apart and noticed that the guy who built it, mislocated the e-clip.  He had it in the slot indicated by the red arrow rather than the slot indicated by the green arrow.  It's all fixed now.

I also noticed that the drive shaft hits the skid plate.  I assume this must be due to the fact that the new links reposition the rear shocks.  I'm using the Tamiya stroke extension kit so I think the combination of new links in conjunction with the extension kit is causing the issue.

I'll Dremel out a larger pass-through hole tomorrow.