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Nobbi1977

MF-01X Bitsa

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Never had a 4x4 road type car so I thought I would build an MF-01x

I did not want the Jimny body so I thought I would order bits and use what I had in stock to build a bitsa

So here we go

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No Manual so iPad it is

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Gears

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Diff

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A bit of this from stock

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Few screws from stock

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Chassis Parts

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First hop-up

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Bearings were not a bad price from Banzai

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Sealed bearings from stock for outer uses

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Instructions

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Chain wax for the gearbox

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Carbon shafts - Why, because they sell them. Odd thing, I have been collecting parts for a while and found 3 sets of hollow shafts as well

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Built

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Next step

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More Carbon

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Comes with nice black balls. I have blue ones in stock so I will use these. Not a big fan but it matches the motor plate

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All done for tonight

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Next step needs a servo and I do not think I have one in stock so I need to order a few more

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Nice, looks a lot like my second MF01x build, also mostly of leftovers and bits ordered at Banzai.

:)

Did you putty F&R and how much did you use?

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Nice, looks a lot like my second MF01x build, also mostly of leftovers and bits ordered at Banzai.

:)

Did you putty F&R and how much did you use?

Only built the rear so far and I packed it tight. Will free up over time but wanted the rear to be almost locked.

I will use less in the front but enough to stop it wasting all the power on one wheel. About 2cm per planet wheel works well in my experience.

I am guessing there is no centre diff so even if both fronts are spinning the rear will still drive?

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Just pricing this up to build a second MF01X and I think the price of a new kit from somewhere like Fusion with the discount makes building one from parts look expensive? Or am I missing something? £31.34 for the main chassis, gears, damper stays and driveshaft from HK seller on eBay - but the thing that gets me is the screw bags, I dont have enough spares for 2 diffs, outdrives and drive cups and cannot find the correct "Screw Bags" for sale.

Please enlighten me as I would love to build another one :D

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Just pricing this up to build a second MF01X and I think the price of a new kit from somewhere like Fusion with the discount makes building one from parts look expensive? Or am I missing something? £31.34 for the main chassis, gears, damper stays and driveshaft from HK seller on eBay - but the thing that gets me is the screw bags, I dont have enough spares for 2 diffs, outdrives and drive cups and cannot find the correct "Screw Bags" for sale.

Please enlighten me as I would love to build another one :D

To be honest i have not totaled up my spend. Compared to the launch price of the Jimny I know it worked out cheaper.

I got everything from Banzai that I did not have but I have odd bits from other builds i can draw on. The plus is that this is much more of an adventure :)

When I am done we can put all the photographed part codes in and see how much i spent :P

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Hehe :)

I did the same with my first M05 build - built it from an M03.

I think I have enough bits to do it for a £40 spend so not as bad as I thought - agreed its more about the adventure! B)

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Stella has them for US $94.90 & $104.90 with painted body + postage .

As i almost got one today , but got the fighting buggy . So i'm not sure what it would cost in pounds etc .

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I didn't document my build but we seem to have done very similar things right down to the Hop ups.

I'm having clearance issues with my chosen bodyshell and the hop up front suspension tower as the bonnet is very low.

What kind of body have you chosen to use? I haven't finished my second MF01 yet and I'm already thinking how awesome a rally-spec Mini Cooper would be!

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I didn't document my build but we seem to have done very similar things right down to the Hop ups.

I'm having clearance issues with my chosen bodyshell and the hop up front suspension tower as the bonnet is very low.

What kind of body have you chosen to use? I haven't finished my second MF01 yet and I'm already thinking how awesome a rally-spec Mini Cooper would be!

Body is not 100% decided yet. Going to build front and rear and then try it under a few things.

I have no idea what I will do for running it, I have too many kits already!!

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I didn't document my build but we seem to have done very similar things right down to the Hop ups.

I'm having clearance issues with my chosen bodyshell and the hop up front suspension tower as the bonnet is very low.

What kind of body have you chosen to use? I haven't finished my second MF01 yet and I'm already thinking how awesome a rally-spec Mini Cooper would be!

Will a Mini shell fit though?

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I have not got a spare servo. Can it be fitted after the build or is it encased in the gearbox?

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Having sized it up this morning I think the Mini is too small. The problem area being the rear overhang, perhaps predictable. If you cut the rear bumper to allow for the plastic extrusion which extends beyond the bumper then it would fit. If you were more confident you might be able to chop that part of the chassis off altogether - I reckon it's sole purpose is to protect the motor from rear impact anyway.

Which of the Mini shells work with the Tamiya M-chassis rally blocks anyway (if any)?

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I have not got a spare servo. Can it be fitted after the build or is it encased in the gearbox?

You wil have to disassemble the front gearbox. No chance getting it in otherwise.
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Having sized it up this morning I think the Mini is too small. The problem area being the rear overhang, perhaps predictable. If you cut the rear bumper to allow for the plastic extrusion which extends beyond the bumper then it would fit. If you were more confident you might be able to chop that part of the chassis off altogether - I reckon it's sole purpose is to protect the motor from rear impact anyway.

Which of the Mini shells work with the Tamiya M-chassis rally blocks anyway (if any)?

thought this wouldd be the case, thanks for looking

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Which of the Mini shells work with the Tamiya M-chassis rally blocks anyway (if any)?

I know the Alpine and Fiat 500 shells fit them without a problem as I have tried them.

The M-size rally blocks are within a hair of the same diameter as the 60D radials, so I suspect that any of the shells supplied with those as standard should work, including the Rover Mini Cooper Racing.

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Servos turned up today so might get a chunk more done at the weekend. Photobucket not working so no pictures :-(

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Servos turned up today so might get a chunk more done at the weekend. Photobucket not working so no pictures :-(

I have been having the same trouble with Photobucket , good to know it's just not me :P ..

Oh ! Why photobucket , We need our pic's of these fine builds :( ...

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I have been having the same trouble with Photobucket , good to know it's just not me :P ..

Oh ! Why photobucket , We need our pic's of these fine builds :( ...

Working now

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Starting point for today

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Not sure the Hi Torque saver will work

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Alloy a lot stiffer than the stock plastic

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New bag needed for spacers

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Done

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Next

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Selection of rods to make steering arms from

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And ends

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Bit of a trim

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Diff building. Only a little putty this time for the front

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New bag for bearing spacers

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Carbon shaft for one gear

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Practice cutting down a shaft

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Not happy to wreck another expensive pack so cut down a a hollow shaft pack instead

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Next bag. Has two sets in it so I did not need to buy two

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Battery holder

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Next

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Lower arms

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Got spare shafts so seems rude not to use them

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Spacer needed to take out slack

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Fitted

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Arm extenders. These are a poor design, one screw and a lot of movment. Not enough space for two screws

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The answer

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Not great but no movement now

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Are these lower holes going to limit movement? Do I need to cut them off?

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Drive cups

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Shafts

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Looking good

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Head cut off a bolt and top links made. Anyone tell me how long these should be eye to eye?

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Rear hubs have a lot of movement, I need to look in to it more.

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King pins

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Prize for the person that looked at those and thought "those will not fit"

Or these

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Nothing in stock that will do. Need to wait for parts. My Tundra box should have 8 in but I do not want to rob a boxed kit

This is as far as I can go today

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Super short with no spacer, would be fun to drive

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Spacer added and a body idea

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Looks about right :)

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Ha would be awesome with a LB body.

With the rear upright extensions you can use a set screw in place of a button headed screw to achieve the same rigidity the stock parts are missing. That's why I'm so keen for the individual Yeah Racing parts to become available, they not only sort out the upper link geometry but they mean you have to remove that upright extension altogether, so the geo of a stock M-05 if you will. Spring time they reckon.

I'll bet you were miffed when discovering that those king pins were too big! The hop up low friction ones are hex-headed too which is nice.

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