Jump to content
beefmuffin

Traxxas Titan 550 Dual Motors in a Blackfoot 3

Recommended Posts

Hey guys - I have a Blackfoot 3 set up with dual motors and the performance is a little lackluster so I've been considering trying out a pair of Titan 550s along with either the EVX or EVX-2 ESC (or maybe some other ESC?).

I don't want to spend a fortune, so a dual brushless setup is prob not ideal... and it has to run on NiMH.

There's plenty of clearance between the top of the chassis and the body to strap on a 2nd battery, so dual batteries shouldn't be an issue.

What do you all think?? Would the gearboxes do OK? Anyone tried this setup?

s-l500.jpg

Titan 550 Forward Rotation Motor (Part # 3975)
  • Fan Cooled, 21 Turns, 14 Volt
  • Length to End of Armature: 78mm (3.07")
  • Diameter of Can 37mm (1.46")
  • Length of Motor Leads 75mm: (2.96")
  • Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm (0.125")

Titan 550 Reverse Rotation Motor (Part # 3975R)

  • Fan Cooled, 21 Turns, 14 Volt
  • Length to End of Armature: 78mm (3.07")
  • Diameter of Can 38mm (1.5")
  • Length of Motor Leads 75mm: (2.96")
  • Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm (0.125")
Two (2) 17 Tooth Pinion Gears, 32 Pitch For 3mm Shaft (Part # 3947)
Two (2) Set Screws

s-l225.jpg

EVX specs:

  • Input Voltage (1.2VDC/cell) ......................................12 cells (14.4 volts DC)
  • Case Width ................................................................................1.75 inches
  • Case Depth ................................................................................2.17 inches
  • Case Height ..............................................................................0.85 inches
  • Weight (w/o heat sinks) ..............................................................3.5 ounces
  • Motor Limit ....................................................19 turns minimum (550 size)
  • On-Resistance–Forward (@Trans) ..................................................0.006
  • On-Resistance–Reverse (@Trans) ..................................................0.006
  • Rated Current–Forward ................................................................160 amps
  • Rated Current–Reverse ................................................................160 amps
  • Braking Current ............................................................................320 amps
  • Continuous Current (@100°F amb.)................................................30 Amps
  • Reverse Delay (after Smart Braking) ......................................Zero Seconds
  • BEC Voltage ..............................................................................5.0 volts DC
  • BEC Current ..................................................................................1.5 amps
  • Power Wire ....................................................................................14G / 9”
  • Input Harness ................................................................................26G / 9”
  • Switch Harness ..............................................................................26G / 6”
  • Transistor Type ........................................................................HYPERFET III
  • PWM Frequency..........................................................................1000 Hertz
  • Protection ......................................................................Thermal Shutdown

s-l225.jpg

EVX2 specs:

  • 16.8 Volts of power
  • Three Drive Profiles
  • Patent Pending Training Mode
  • Waterproof Design
  • Double Coated Electronics Prevent Water Damage
  • EZ-Set Push Button Setup
  • Thermal Shutdown Protection
  • Microprocessor Controlled
  • Specifications:
  • Input Voltage: 6-14 Cells (7.2 - 16.8V)
  • Case Size (WxDxH): 2.27x2x1.05"
  • Weight (w/o Heatsink): 3.6oz
  • Motor Limit: 540 - 10 turn/550 - 12 turn
  • On Resistance: 0.004 ohm
  • Rated Current: 180 Amps
  • Braking Current: 360 Amps
  • Reverse Delay: None
  • BEC Voltage: 6V DC
  • BEC Current: 2.5 Amps
  • Power Wire: 14awg 3"
  • Input Harness: 26awg 9.5"
  • Motor Wires: 14awg 9"
  • Transistor Type: Mosfet
  • PWM Frequency: 1700 Hertz
  • Protection: Thermal Shutdown

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've tried this setup. Here's what I remember of it. Lots of torque and way faster than the stock setup. From slowest to fastest I've run stock 540s, dual 15T HPI Firebolts on 7.2v, 14.4v 550s and a Castle Sidewinder 4600 with 2wd. The only real mods were longer E-Maxx shocks and bearings. It was most controlled with the Firebolts. The brushless Sidewinder setup seemed to overpower the truck. The 550s on 14.4v were very torquey and quite fast. You can tell the trucks lugging an extra battery around especially if its strapped up top. It makes the truck more top heavy at speed and throws the balance off a bit. Still fun though. I filled the lower control arms with epoxy to stiffen them. With all that torque, they really twist and flex. With the extra weight and torque I could see parts wear being a problem over time but fixing them is half the fun. I'd advise Tamiya's hardened joint cups at the gearbox. The stock plated ones wore rather quickly. If you want a brawny brawler give the 550s a shot but if you want something more athletic and sporty, twin 540 mods on a single battery would be better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, thanks! What about battery runtimes? Were your setups all LiPo? My current setup is slow and maybe 15mins max of runtime. This is supposed to be a pure runner / basher otherwise I wouldn't really care. Am planning to rebuild the gearboxes too b/c I think I packed them with lots of really sticky grease...maybe too much / too sticky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, I refuse to use LiPo. A fellow across the lake from my little house in PA burned his $350,000 home flat to the ground charging LiPos. Careless, I know, but enough to scare the heck out of me, lol. I run mostly NiMh and even NiCds in my vintage runners. I probably got about the same amount of runtime with the 14.4/550 setup as the 7.2/540 setup. I just run Tamiya ceramic grease in most of my gearboxes. The gearboxes themselves are pretty tough except for the stock outdrive/joint cup wear with the 550s. I've heard of shearing off the 3 pronged "star" shaft in the diff in brushless applications but haven't any issues myself.

At the moment, I'm really on the fence about giving the 550.14.4v/WT-01 thing a try again or just giving up and getting an E-Maxx. It's a tough decision based on my principles and feelings about the hobby combined with my loyalty to Tamiya. Or maybe I'm just weird and have to be different. :P

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a custom clod that im rebuilding and it has brushless motors in and it, split the axles to clean and the insides are still in very good condition, not sure how much running it has had but looks like it is very capable of handling the power of the motors.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At the moment, I'm really on the fence about giving the 550.14.4v/WT-01 thing a try again or just giving up and getting an E-Maxx. It's a tough decision based on my principles and feelings about the hobby combined with my loyalty to Tamiya. Or maybe I'm just weird and have to be different. :P

MY GOD MAN, DON'T GIVE UP AND GET AN E-MAXX. That's like saying you're going to give up dating and marry a blow-up doll. There is no soul inside. :P

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After much thought and encouragement from fellow Tamiya fanatics, I've decided to give the 14.4v WT-01 another shot. Thanks.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting - how much would u be looking for? Also any possible interest in part cash part trade?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting - how much would u be looking for? Also any possible interest in part cash part trade?

I love a good trade. Let me look through invoices and see how much it cost me.

I fitted XT-60 plugs today to try it out but 14.4v is to much for silvercans so it is surplus. I assumed it would work from one battery with a second added for a boost.

EDIT: It owes me £15 so would be looking for that sort of money back I guess.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Happy to pay u that - will also look around for a few possible trade ideas in that ballpark to see if you'd be interested. Thanks!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Happy to pay u that - will also look around for a few possible trade ideas in that ballpark to see if you'd be interested. Thanks!

You in the US? Will have to look at postage costs, should still be a lot cheaper than the mad prices some places want for these things

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You in the US? Will have to look at postage costs, should still be a lot cheaper than the mad prices some places want for these things

Yep - am in US. Postage just for that in a small box would prob go about $10-15. If we do a cash deal I'd cover it and if we do a trade we usually pay our own sides, which factor into trade value.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would you be interested in a set of original NIP Mud Blaster decals? Would consider it an even trade, each paying shipping on our ends. If not, what sort of trade items might be of interest? Other decals? A set of NIP Bigwig Moon Craft wheels?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick update! Got the ESC from Nobbi1977 (thanks again for the great deal!) and the twin Titan 550's. Figured out how to mount the ESC forward enough to make room for the 2nd stick pack laying lengthwise along the top. Modified the front body mount setup a bit to fit some threaded rod between the heatsink fins of the ESC with some strong mounting tape beneath.

I guess other's who've used these Titan 550s on a WT/WR-01 have either used motor mount/spacers or had to do like me and shorten the shaft of the motor (by hand with a hack saw in my case). That's one benefit of working with good but fairly cheap components like these - no remorse! :lol:

I need to get some battery adapters to finish hooking everything up and testing it - ordering some today! - but so far so good. Am excited to see how it goes.

Question for anyone who might know: since this is a matched pair of motors with fwd/rev advanced timing, I'd be correct in assuming the Reverse Rotation motor should be mounted on the front gearbox, right? That's what I've done. Need to check the manual for the ESC too to see which wires to attach to which motor.

23719443554_ab5c80da7f_h.jpg

24052052190_848f3aa1d7_h.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And here it is with the wheels and body back on. Have also since installed the 3d-printed FORD hood letters designed by our own Pintopower to round out the vintage BF look! I'd also tried some barrel nuts to install original (rear) BF wheels and tires, and they do work but they offset the wheels to an even wider stance than the already wide WT-01 suspension. I may try out the narrow Amarok arms, etc to see if that would allow for the OG wheels to be fitted without looking extremely overly-wide. :D

24351117375_d752eb715f_b.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And here it is with the wheels and body back on. Have also since installed the 3d-printed FORD hood letters designed by our own Pintopower to round out the vintage BF look! I'd also tried some barrel nuts to install original (rear) BF wheels and tires, and they do work but they offset the wheels to an even wider stance than the already wide WT-01 suspension. I may try out the narrow Amarok arms, etc to see if that would allow for the OG wheels to be fitted without looking extremely overly-wide. :D

24351117375_d752eb715f_b.jpg

Looks great beef and I bet it goes even better now! B)

If you try the amarok arms and the barrel nuts bring the stance close to standard could you put it on here. I've done similar to you by buying a wt01 mud blaster but did a box art monster beetle shell turning it into a wt01 monster beetle. Looks and goes great! One thing it's really missing is the gold wheels. I bought some gold lunch box wheels but I don't like the look of the tyres compared to the monster spikes. If the amarok arms and barrel nuts work it could be the way to get gold wheels with monster spikes on my beetle.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great, glad you can make use of it.

Is two packs that high up not going to make it want to flip in every direction possible?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great, glad you can make use of it.

Is two packs that high up not going to make it want to flip in every direction possible?

LOL it may - gonna have to see. I toyed with the idea of widening the opening in the chassis right above the other battery and stacking them vertically but I thought that would probably weaken the chassis too much and wouldn't be worth it. If it turns out the extra battery in this configuration makes the thing too unstable I may switch this ESC over to the Clod runner I've got waiting in the wings and go with a different solution for this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you took the battery holder bits off would they side mount?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about cutting the stock chassis plates for a stacked battery configuration, but then cutting a pair of square carbon or alloy plates with holes in the middle to bolt on either side to reinforce the area and regain the lost strength?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great. Just a note if using the Amarok arms, you'll need the shorter corresponding driveshafts and steering rods for the front.

If you do go that route let me know and I can dig out the part numbers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...