Frog Jumper 3662 Posted January 27, 2016 LOL fair warning Terry - I'm in the bidding on this! Wld like to try it in place of the Thorpe in one of my ORV bashers. No hard feelings! =) No worries... I have to let this one pass... Let me know how it works out! Terry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crash Cramer 617 Posted January 28, 2016 More pertinent is I can't EVER recall seeing that. It looks like it would require a full gearbox teardown to access the "adjustment" screws as there are three and on the face of the gear plate and NOT internal. I won't say I don't think it will work, but it looks less likely to be easily adjusted so first time set up might be a nightmare, will look forward to your review of that Beefy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beefmuffin 1156 Posted January 28, 2016 More pertinent is I can't EVER recall seeing that. It looks like it would require a full gearbox teardown to access the "adjustment" screws as there are three and on the face of the gear plate and NOT internal. I won't say I don't think it will work, but it looks less likely to be easily adjusted so first time set up might be a nightmare, will look forward to your review of that Beefy. RTDM Chris! D = darn. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3662 Posted January 28, 2016 RTDM Chris! D = darn. To be fair, you will have to drill a 5/32" hole in the diff side plate so you can turn the diff and access the screw(s)... Terry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beefmuffin 1156 Posted January 28, 2016 To be fair, you will have to drill a 5/32" hole in the diff side plate so you can turn the diff and access the screw(s)... Terry If it means I can adjust the thing without disassembling any other parts I'm on board with that! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3662 Posted January 28, 2016 If it means I can adjust the thing without disassembling any other parts I'm on board with that! LOL! Did you guys look at the pix??? Read the instructions??? You'll probably have to remove the starboard rear wheel to access the hole... And you'll have a hole in the side of your tranny for water and/or junk to get it... But you should be able to adjust the (3) screws... Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beefmuffin 1156 Posted January 28, 2016 LOL! Did you guys look at the pix??? Read the instructions??? You'll probably have to remove the starboard rear wheel to access the hole... And you'll have a hole in the side of your tranny for water and/or junk to get it... But you should be able to adjust the (3) screws... Terry Well, in the uncertain chance that I win it I'll have to see how hard it is. As for the hole, I would probably screw a little shallow machine screw into the opening to keep it sealed when access not needed. Ideally, the same hex head size as the adj screws. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3662 Posted January 28, 2016 Well, in the uncertain chance that I win it I'll have to see how hard it is. As for the hole, I would probably screw a little shallow machine screw into the opening to keep it sealed when access not needed. Ideally, the same hex head size as the adj screws. I'd be afraid the new screw would contact the spinning gears under duress... I'd stick to duct-tape... YMMV... Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crash Cramer 617 Posted January 28, 2016 I did read that darn manual, but as with most CRP stuff the translation was nearly Greek to me, but I see you dealing with the Greeks a lot, so it apparantly didn't scare you much. I have to say I more or less sped read it, so now that explains the hole and to be fair, when I saw them pointing out you were to make a hole, I was like, ummmmmmm. Anyway, if you do win it and such, I wonder if a rubber bung would keep the dirt out?? Hardware store might have them and it would remind all of us about the Novak bungs they put on the pots of the early ESCs back in the 80's 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beefmuffin 1156 Posted January 28, 2016 I did read that darn manual, but as with most CRP stuff the translation was nearly Greek to me, but I see you dealing with the Greeks a lot, so it apparantly didn't scare you much. I have to say I more or less sped read it, so now that explains the hole and to be fair, when I saw them pointing out you were to make a hole, I was like, ummmmmmm. Anyway, if you do win it and such, I wonder if a rubber bung would keep the dirt out?? Hardware store might have them and it would remind all of us about the Novak bungs they put on the pots of the early ESCs back in the 80's CRP diff instructions for ORV rear end: Step 1: Firmly grasp rear end and carefully drill a bung hole Step 2: Buff rim of freshly drilled bung hole till smooth Step 3: Lightly lubricate tip of rubber bung Step 4: Gently insert into bunghole, applying even pressure, till fully inserted Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crash Cramer 617 Posted January 28, 2016 Now you want to tell me where THOSE instructions came from??? I dont' see them in that auction. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3662 Posted February 2, 2016 http://jpegbay.com/gallery/004931100-1.html#1 Blackfoot Counter: 52T outer, 17T inner Blackfoot Diff: 48T Frog Counter 01: 49T outer, 18T inner Frog Counter 02: 50T Frog Counter 03: 52T Frog Diff: 47T Thorp Counter: 52T outer, 18T inner Thorp Diff: 47T The Blackfoot Counter, the Frog Counter 03, and the Thorp Counter are all 52T and are the same diameter. The Frog 50T is slightly smaller, with the 49T being smaller still... The 18T Frog and the Thorp Counter inner gears are the same diameter. The 17T BF inner is slightly smaller... The 47T Frog and the Thorp Diff are the same diameter, and the 48T BF is slightly larger. The Frog and BF gears are the same thickness, and the Thorp are slightly thicker. Just muddying the water so more... Once I find my digi-calipers, I'll take some measurements... Terry ETA: it makes sense that the Thorp stuff is pretty much a clone of the Frog stuff... and that the 17T is slightly smaller to accommodate the slightly larger 48T Diff on the BF... It solves the riddle of why each set of gears is marked with the car! You wouldn't want to put a BF Counter on a Frog Diff! That said, the Thorp stuff should plug-and-play with the Frog stuff... ETA2: the bevel gears and (3) tiny gears for both the Frog and BF are exactly the same... ETA3: this presents a possible conundrum! Do you design for the plentiful Frog re-re's, or do you design for the brand new MB re-re??? I assume that the Frog re-re's have the 18/47 gears, while the new MB has the 17/48 gears??? OK, I found my digital calipers and made some measurements tonight... Diameter of ORV Gears (all dimension are mm): Blackfoot Counter = 31.9 Blackfoot Spur = 3.7 Blackfoot Diff = 28.6 Frog Counter = 49T = 29.2 Frog Counter = 50T = 30.0 Frog Counter = 52T = 31.6 Frog Spur = 4.5 Frog Diff = 27.6 Thorp Counter = 31.5 Thorp Spur = 4.5 Thorp Diff = 27.3 All dimensions are +/- 0.1mm. "Counter" is the large gear that contacts the pinion. "Spur" is the small gear in the center of this. "Diff" is the large gear that drives the axles... Just more info to add to the mix... Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blackfoot dave 13 Posted February 5, 2016 Sorry BEEF, I ended up with that diff.....it is a 47 tooth gear and as the directions say it is suited best for the Brat/Frog/Lancia. My plan is to install it in another Wild One I am working on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beefmuffin 1156 Posted February 5, 2016 Sorry BEEF, I ended up with that diff.....it is a 47 tooth gear and as the directions say it is suited best for the Brat/Frog/Lancia. My plan is to install it in another Wild One I am working on. LOL no worries, Dave! Frog Jumper pointed me to a twin from a different maker "Paranoia" that's on its way to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blackfoot dave 13 Posted February 5, 2016 Never seen that one before, very similar.....the oil seal is a good idea, the CRP one doesn't have that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crash Cramer 617 Posted February 5, 2016 All these clones, wow, who knew??? I wonder if that oil seal would cause too much sticktion friction?? Also, Beef, did you still have that busted washers Thorp left??? I am not finding my spare pieces right now, but I am beginning to wonder if I don't have some of the necessary washers to fix that one up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beefmuffin 1156 Posted February 5, 2016 All these clones, wow, who knew??? I wonder if that oil seal would cause too much sticktion friction?? Also, Beef, did you still have that busted washers Thorp left??? I am not finding my spare pieces right now, but I am beginning to wonder if I don't have some of the necessary washers to fix that one up. Nope - sold and going to a new home this weekend! Thanks tho, as always. Will report back on my success with the new mutant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3662 Posted May 13, 2016 Any movement on this new ORV tranny??? Thx... Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted May 13, 2016 2 hours ago, Frog Jumper said: Any movement on this new ORV tranny??? Thx... Terry x2....................... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pintopower 1456 Posted June 22, 2016 Sorry for the delay folks. MIP has been working hard on seeing is this is a cost effective solution for both the owners of the cars and them. Here is where we are at. There are a number of directions we can go, from a complete transmission to a new diff. Right now, the idea is to make just a drop in, fully sealed diff that in no way needs the side walls of the transmission for compression. In order to keep costs down the plan is to use existing out drives and axles. So if you have a vintage car you can run the hex's or if you have a rere you can run the dog bones. The question is, are the dog bones good? I am not asking if they are the greatest thing since Kanye West declared bankruptcy, just are they better than the originals and if so, how much better? Slightly? Vastly? My testing showed that they are great but I want to hear from the crazy people with 3S lipo's and a twitch in their left eye. Sooner we hear the sooner we get a prototype. Just so you know, MIP is moving forward on the design. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pintopower 1456 Posted June 23, 2016 Hey all, does no one have a rere orv? Even a "they are great" or "they suck" will suffice. I really need to get this info to MIP since I don't think I am the only one that wants a new diff for the ORV's. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matman 1499 Posted June 24, 2016 Not as many people on in the last few days ! . Wish i could help , but i have not run a ORV re re . Maybe you could read the RE RE monster beetle thread ?. As it can do with the Ball Diff , But most people are having trouble with the drive shalft's on the Beetle . Popping out , Out of balance in some cases & of course the diff problem , But that could be fixed with your diff ?. These are some of the problems i have read in the re re monster beetle thread . Hope this helps & thanks . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3662 Posted June 24, 2016 20 minutes ago, matman said: read in the re re monster beetle thread This^^^ There were some issues, but another TCer made a brace that seems to have solved the problem of side plate flexion... Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pintopower 1456 Posted June 24, 2016 13 hours ago, matman said: Not as many people on in the last few days ! . Wish i could help , but i have not run a ORV re re . Maybe you could read the RE RE monster beetle thread ?. As it can do with the Ball Diff , But most people are having trouble with the drive shalft's on the Beetle . Popping out , Out of balance in some cases & of course the diff problem , But that could be fixed with your diff ?. These are some of the problems i have read in the re re monster beetle thread . Hope this helps & thanks . 13 hours ago, Frog Jumper said: This^^^ There were some issues, but another TCer made a brace that seems to have solved the problem of side plate flexion... Terry I haven't read that thread in a while. Good call. I will take a look and see what we are looking at. What would be ideal is a complete diff and axle set complete with CVD joint (drools) but we need to be reasonable. People arent going to spend $200 for a $150 kit. The flexing trans plates has to do with the diff separating right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TamiyaVancouver 5 Posted June 24, 2016 My only experience with an ORV is my Re-Re Frog. It was my first foray back in to the hobby about 6 years ago or so. I built it with full bearings and a Sport Tuned motor. I have never had a problem with the gearbox and I have put at least 100 battery packs through it. The last 10 or so packs through it have been 2S Lipo packs FWIW. I have never broken anything or had a dog bone come out. Hope this helps. Mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
