Jump to content
Smidsy

Lubrication confusion

Recommended Posts

When i read through the different posts on here, I see a wide range of different greases etc been used. Also I see quite a few different ones been sold. Back when I had my original Wild One nearly 30 years ago. Once I had used what came with the kit, I started using Molybdenum grease. Not sure if this was a recommendation at the time. When I rebuilt my Grasshopper 2 and TA04 that is what I used everywhere. However I see things like diff putty, and AW grease been mentioned. It did say to use AW on the dog bones for my TA04, However I did thing that Molybdenum grease would be OK, as that is pretty much what its used for on 1:1 cars. Any advice appreciated as usual.

Craig :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Craig. I was in the same boat as you when I re-entered the hobby a little over a year ago. All I had ever used was Tamiya grease or Moly grease. I wasn't using them correctly either. So I found this cheat sheet somewhere (prolly here on Tamiya Club TBH). So while I can't take credit for the contents I can say it's been very helpful for me so I'm passing along the info.

Grease Cheat Sheet

Ceramic Grease: For plastic running gears - thin & slippery
Molybdenum Grease: For metal running gears - med & slippery
Ball Diff Grease: For diff balls & diff washers - thin & sticky (for ball traction)
Anti-Wear Grease: For CVD's, gear diffs, on-road suspension, and thrust bearings - xtra thick & sticky


Molybdenum Grease
Item #87022
Intended for metal-to-metal contact. Lithium is the base material in the grease, moly is an additive in the grease. Molybdenum disulfide is a dark gray powder that is very hard and very slippery. Moly is excellent for slow moving, heavily loaded points. This grease is suitable for gears and moving parts in mechanical operations. It maintains its viscosity over a wide temperature range, reduces friction, and has molybdenum properties that cover the entire surface well. Use moly-additized grease on the sliding spline on the driveshaft. Moly can contain abrasive particles that can damage needle, ball, or roller bearings.

----------

Ceramic Grease
Item #87025 DISCONTINUED
This grease is formulated using Boron Nitride particles and is ideal for use on electric powered R/C vehicles. It should be applied to all bearings, shafts, and gears. It maintains its viscosity throughout a wide temperature range.

----------

Cera Grease HG
Item #87099
Intended for metal-to-plastic or plastic-to-plastic contact. This Cera-grease HG is made using Boron Nitride which gives it superior lubrication ability. Cera-grease can be used with MINI 4WD cars, R/C Cars, Robocraft gears and bearings, and provide excellent lubrication for plastic and metal parts.

----------

RC Anti-Wear Grease
Item #53439
Ideal for use in a gear differential to provide some limited slip action thanks to its tacky consistency. The potential of this high viscosity grease has been race proven as one of the valuable components of the TRF414 chassis, greatly reducing friction between moving parts.

----------

RC VG Joint/Cup Grease
Item #42128
This new Joint & Cup grease is best suited to fast moving parts. It assists in preventing wear and tear on parts. Other types of grease which have been used in the past tend to dry up and cause stiffening. With the new grease, there are no drying up and stiffening effects making this the grease to have for fast moving parts. The grease is a blue color.

- 42130 Thrust bearing grease (a black Teflon grease for diff thrust bearings similar to Associated)
- 42129 Damper grease (to make shock o-rings smoother like Associated Green Slime)
- 42169 TRF ball diff grease (probably thicker like Associated or Schumacher)
- 42170 Diff plate grease (I imagine is to stick the diff rings to alloy outdrives)

Tamiya also has three friction damper greases (53174 soft, 53175 medium and 53176 hard).
In addition, they also sell these in a 3 pack of 2g tubs for mini 4WD cars (15129).

  • Like 18
  • Thanks 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have gear diffs, then you definitely want to skip the molly grease and use anti-wear grease inside them. It's very sticky and helps slow the diff action thereby acting as a limited slip. It will definitely help you put more power to the ground out of turns and off the line.

For the plastic running gears, just use the lightest coat of ceramic grease. I would barely apply a tiny bit with a tooth brush. Anything more than that is a waste and just gets spun off into the gearbox anyways.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've changed my approach to greases and oils over time. I don't feel wedded to the products hobby companies repackage and sell necessarily.

- For ball bearings used in the drivetrain (not steering or suspension ball bearings) I'll keep the default grease for bashing and off-road use, but for on-road track use I'll clean out bearings and lube them with a light oil. The reason for doing this is to reduce the drag associated with the grease. For steering and suspension (like IFS rockers) I just keep the default grease. Just replace the bearings when they're not smooth; prices are so low for ball bearings these days. Avid, Trinity, and others have products designed for this.

large_263_lube_slip.jpg

- For CVDs and dog bones I don't bother with molybdenum grease or anti-wear grease, as these greases attract and capture dirt. This makes an abrasive paste that grinds against the metal parts. I just lube CVDs and dog bones with dry graphite available at any auto parts store, taking care to rub the graphite into the points of contact on the parts.

00277-8.jpg

- For spur gears, center transmission bevel gears (if any), and differential ring and pinion gears (shaft drive cars) I use a dry PTFE lube instead of ceramic grease. This is for plastic gears in 1/10 cars. Again, this is to reduce the drag due to grease while still providing some lubrication for the gear teeth. I don't use any lubricants on center pulleys or differential pulleys on belt drive cars.

big_FL_TEF_US_2oz_MA_1312_CRC_RGB.jpg

- For 1/8 differential ring and pinion gears I've been happy using a synthetic gear lube from the auto parts store. One tube is a lifetime supply. I don't lube the spur gear or pinion as these are typically hardened steel.

Z3Kyv_fo5oy.JPG

- For ball diffs I use a small amount of anti-wear grease for the thrust bearing and silicone grease for the diff balls/plates. The anti-wear grease doesn't seem to leak out as easily as molybdenum grease in the thrust bearing. The silicone grease is the normal stuff; I know people have their preferences whether it is Tamiya ball diff grease or Associated ball diff grease, but I've read some reasonable online testimonials about using plumber's silicone grease in ball diffs. I still have some Tamiya and Associated ball diff grease to use up, but I plan to try out the plumber's grease in the future as it is priced better.

41SPnz6N1cL._SX355_.jpg038753302195lg.jpg

- For sealed gear diffs and shocks I have a range of Associated silicone oils on hand. This is more a function of local availability, quantity provided, and price than anything. Associated has started marking their bottles in both proprietary weights as well as SI units (centistokes or cst), so it's a little easier to compare oils against other manufacturers. I can't find anything similar at the local home improvement or auto parts store.

5424-PR-group_md.jpg

- I pretty much don't run any unsealed gear diffs anymore, but for the random TT01/DF02 anti-wear grease works well to slow the diff action a little.

  • Like 8
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great info here!

I've been thinking about getting graphite lubricant.

Is there something special I should look for?

I see that I can buy small bottles with an applicator for locksmith use. One will probably last me forever, but is it different from the auto parts store type?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Powder-like consistency is easy to apply.

So not anything in a fluid then?

Do the ones in tube have a powder-like consistency?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, this post, or at least extracts of it, is going directly to my Evernote.

Great info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for the replies on this one. Definitely going to have to get a few different ones now.

Craig :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So not anything in a fluid then?

Do the ones in tube have a powder-like consistency?

Correct, just use a powdered graphite. The graphite I bought in the auto parts store comes out of the tube looking like black dust. Instead of putting it on the part, I put a little on a paper towel and rub the part against it. You can see the finish of the part change as more of the material finds its way into the microscopic pores of the metal. I also put a little on the end of a Q-tip to rub into the slots of a joint cup.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What about the graphite spray? We used to use one at my old job. Goes on like spray paint. But then dries in about 10 mins to leave a dry graphite coating on the part.

Craig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure that works too. I tend to avoid sprays because it's a little harder to control application, and there's overspray to clean up.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was also wondering about this, but in the Dual Hunter I will try a mix of greases as a test.

I have a pack of UR0906 grease. While this is a great grease, it is also very sticky. It almost resembles a pot of glue.
With the gearboxes I've done in the past, I found that with this particular grease, less is more.

Because of its stickyness, it stays on the gears really well, and a thin coat is enough for great lubrication. It is also great for packing into a differential, limiting the diff action.

But... if used to much on the gears, the gearbox has a higher resistance compared to ceramic or normal PTFE greases. To avoid this somewhat, I use a brush to dap the gear surfaces wih a thin layer of this grease, and then run the gearbox as a seperate piece from a bench power supply at 12 volts for a few minutes, to fling off any excess grease from the gears.

My point being.... A fast spinning gear like a pinion will profit from a very sticky grease as it stays on longer, but a slower moving gear like a differential will probably have to much resistance, because gear teeth surface area is larger causing more stickyness, and the low RPM will not effectively fling of excess sticky grease.

So in the Dual Hunter, I'm planning to use the UR0906 in the pinion and the gear that engages the pinion, and to limit the diff somewhat.
But the rest of the gears will be regular PTFE or ceramic grease, to reduce resistance. So multiple greases in the gearbox... each for its own specific purpose.

Edit: sorry to drag up this old thread, I wanted to put this into a differend thread. :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm usually very brutal on my cars, going through dust, lots of snow, water. Since I've been in the crawler scene, been using nothing but marine grease on everything. Its basically an automotive grease found at the parts store 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hay , i use c.v shaft grease molly lube is the best it will stick to the gears and has a low weight you can buy a small tube from super cheap for 9 bucks works great cheers 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't use RC grease.  The only car so far I've had to use something out of the ordinary was my DN01 (faucet grease for the ball diff).  Other than that, I use varying automotive greases.  I have a 3 pack of Lucas Oil greases that I use depending on the application:

https://www.mylucasoil.com/products/3oz-grease-3-pack?variant=11929222971435

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Mahjik said:

I don't use RC grease.  The only car so far I've had to use something out of the ordinary was my DN01 (faucet grease for the ball diff).  Other than that, I use varying automotive greases.  I have a 3 pack of Lucas Oil greases that I use depending on the application:

https://www.mylucasoil.com/products/3oz-grease-3-pack?variant=11929222971435

I'd be concerned with these attacking plastics over time. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is Tamiya AW grease safe in a plastic geared diff like the TT02 in long term?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/18/2016 at 8:35 PM, speedy_w_beans said:

I've changed my approach to greases and oils over time. I don't feel wedded to the products hobby companies repackage and sell necessarily.

- For ball bearings used in the drivetrain (not steering or suspension ball bearings) I'll keep the default grease for bashing and off-road use, but for on-road track use I'll clean out bearings and lube them with a light oil. The reason for doing this is to reduce the drag associated with the grease. For steering and suspension (like IFS rockers) I just keep the default grease. Just replace the bearings when they're not smooth; prices are so low for ball bearings these days. Avid, Trinity, and others have products designed for this.

large_263_lube_slip.jpg

- For CVDs and dog bones I don't bother with molybdenum grease or anti-wear grease, as these greases attract and capture dirt. This makes an abrasive paste that grinds against the metal parts. I just lube CVDs and dog bones with dry graphite available at any auto parts store, taking care to rub the graphite into the points of contact on the parts.

00277-8.jpg

- For spur gears, center transmission bevel gears (if any), and differential ring and pinion gears (shaft drive cars) I use a dry PTFE lube instead of ceramic grease. This is for plastic gears in 1/10 cars. Again, this is to reduce the drag due to grease while still providing some lubrication for the gear teeth. I don't use any lubricants on center pulleys or differential pulleys on belt drive cars.

big_FL_TEF_US_2oz_MA_1312_CRC_RGB.jpg

- For 1/8 differential ring and pinion gears I've been happy using a synthetic gear lube from the auto parts store. One tube is a lifetime supply. I don't lube the spur gear or pinion as these are typically hardened steel.

Z3Kyv_fo5oy.JPG

- For ball diffs I use a small amount of anti-wear grease for the thrust bearing and silicone grease for the diff balls/plates. The anti-wear grease doesn't seem to leak out as easily as molybdenum grease in the thrust bearing. The silicone grease is the normal stuff; I know people have their preferences whether it is Tamiya ball diff grease or Associated ball diff grease, but I've read some reasonable online testimonials about using plumber's silicone grease in ball diffs. I still have some Tamiya and Associated ball diff grease to use up, but I plan to try out the plumber's grease in the future as it is priced better.

41SPnz6N1cL._SX355_.jpg038753302195lg.jpg

- For sealed gear diffs and shocks I have a range of Associated silicone oils on hand. This is more a function of local availability, quantity provided, and price than anything. Associated has started marking their bottles in both proprietary weights as well as SI units (centistokes or cst), so it's a little easier to compare oils against other manufacturers. I can't find anything similar at the local home improvement or auto parts store.

5424-PR-group_md.jpg

- I pretty much don't run any unsealed gear diffs anymore, but for the random TT01/DF02 anti-wear grease works well to slow the diff action a little.

This is pretty much my approach as well. Besides ptfe grease, I have found that I also really like the WD40 high performance white lithium grease for spurs, pinions, idlers and bevel/ring gears. It's not thick like a normal grease, but it sticks and wears hard. It is also very popular with both road and MTB cyclists that race in dry conditions.

With the really thick silicone diff lubes, i don't have problems keeping the "fluid" inside the diffs despite them having no gaskets.

I run 80k in my tto2b front and 100k in the rear. I run 200k in my DT-03. None of them leak.

This is my go-to lube for pins. Ball joints etc. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ptfe-dry-lube.html

Love that stuff.

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the Stuff i use:

Read up on Super Lube  92016 

CorrisionX's SpeedX

Caig DeoxIT

Ballistol

EEZOX

 

 

 a lot of your firearm products are far superior than any thing RC sells just make sure it's compatible with plastics, and they are out there, and they work well beyond anything i've used in the past. not just my RC's also my cars and home A/V, trains, patio door, garage door, hinges, fishing reels, tools, any and all things that need protecting  (Ballisol for a lot of things from elect. to even on  leather, but it smells). plus it's good on the Rocks:lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/20/2016 at 2:50 AM, appleby20 said:

Wow, this post, or at least extracts of it, is going directly to my Evernote.

Great info.

I've been using marine grade "green grease" on everything except for ball diffs for the past 20 yrs.  Never had an issue with any of them. I don't see the need for a bunch of different greases laying around. 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i was double checking lube(grease compatibility) after opening the 1lb. Finish Line Ceramic Grease i've had for some time, been using Super Lube, but just needed to double check where all these special greases are actually used and with what properties they'er compatible with, it's frick'n comical.

i think i'll just use "I can't believe it's not butter':lol:

 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

NOT much to add.... Especially after @Effigy3 nearly DEFINITIVE Answer!! Quite thorough.

@DK308 gave a great illustrated explanation as well..... In fact EVERYONE has been they're typical HELPFUL selves!!! 😁👍👍

I recently discovered something that I've actually been using for over 40 years as an Auto Mechanic... IMG_20200909_103950.thumb.jpg.9c00c48226c5b51297eac7761a609175.jpg

As those of us who have bought Tamiya AW Grease - it's #$&£$!! EXPENSIVE! And for a TINY Pot or Tube. 

HOWEVER... Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant is the SAME Chemical composition, a heavy Molybdenum Grease - just a little thinner than AW Grease.......

BUT - it only costs about $5.00 USD, for a One Ounce Tube!! You can fill about 15 of those little Tamiya Pots with one Tube of this! 😊 AW Grease, although a bit thicker, is outrageously more expensive!  It's really great because it's also got excellent bonding properties. It doesn't just fling off after 2 Batteries... IMG_20200909_133610.thumb.jpg.a60034641fff022acc382b9838587e52.jpg

.... It wouldn't surprise me if you could also use the Permatex to seal Gearboxes and Diff Cases, like some of us do with AW Grease. AGAIN, at a fraction of the cost!!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...