100% OFFROAD... Tamiya DB-01 RRR.

[mastino 1085]

Following the advice of RS2RSR I found these:

and fit perfectly

[94eg! 834]

Looks like outstanding fun.

BTW: If you clean up your wiring, the body can potentially sit a full half-inch lower. Those tabs that stick out of the body in the rear corners actually sit flush and seal the rear corners of the chassis-tub. I don't run front body posts....Just side velcro and rear body posts with one long clip.

The trick with getting the Durga body low with a brick lipo is to cut a hole in the body. The body is shaped to fit rounded nickle stick packs, so you have to cut the rounded portion out so the square brick can poke through (see below).

Your wiring and electronics have to be pretty flat and compact on both sides. Especially on the battery side. The TA05 carbon battery brace is very helpful (but kinda expensive for what it is). How the body fits can depend on what angle you make the battery strap snap-pins point.

[mastino 1085]

I probably made a mistake in drilling the body. It's too far forward.

[InsaneJim69 1584]

I never ever fit a body on my race buggies with body clips or posts. They are the first thing removed. Sticky velco is def best and all that is needed.

I also found the Durga to not quite "fly" right over jumps etc, the Balrde seems to be the better balanced race body for large jumps and flush landings (all IMO of course) Just finished cleaning my DB01R tonight after a few test runs today dialing in the Big Bore Dampers for this season

Also noticed a massive difference running a Turnigy 6000 Shorty Lipo pack (used to run a full size lipo), as I can shift it forward or back to get a perfect weight balance.

James

[94eg! 834]

What location makes it perfect? Have any photos?

[InsaneJim69 1584]

All depends on your electrics and their weight and location on the DB01. You then adjust the battery so that its even front to rear as well as left to right.

James

[brandycmc 0]

On 20 February 2016 at 5:46 PM, mastino said:

Following the advice of RS2RSR I found these:

and fit perfectly

Hi

ive just ordered some DE Speedlines myself, thanks to you and RS2RSR.

but I've also just realised that the rears in your picture are the Speedline PLUS range.  Now I could be wrong, but doesn't that make them 2.4" diameter rather than 2.2"?

is that right? And are you therefore going to need different diameter tyres?

(I'm a newbie here - pls go easy!)

 

[mastino 1085]

oh no.... best FAIL of the year! 

[brandycmc 0]

Sorry. I thought there were some adults here. People willing to be helpful.

My mistake. Lesson learnt. I'll go elsewhere. 

[Rb4276 803]

2 hours ago, brandycmc said:

Sorry. I thought there were some adults here. People willing to be helpful.

My mistake. Lesson learnt. I'll go elsewhere. 

I am not 100% positive but i ordered the de racing 2.2 rear rims for my dn-01 for when i wear out my few sets of stock rims and different tires and use the trf201 hex conversion. They had both 2.4 and 2.2 available. 

 

People are very helpful here so relax, maybe no one read your question and knew the answer

[mastino 1085]

I'm sorry, English is not my language. I wanted to point that I made a mistake at the order of the rear wheels. One of my many mistakes this year.

Probably "best failure" is the correct way... or not. 

and in 52 years of life, sometimes errors occur.

 

 

[brandycmc 0]

No worries.  My bad.  I misinterpreted the previous note.

I have now received a couple of sets of the new DE Speedline wheels. Exactly as per mastino's picture - except that the rears are not the 'PLUS' version.  And that they are bright yellow.  They seemed to fit perfectly, and the tyres slotted on just like the original wheels.   So I am very pleased with them.  Thanks for the posts earlier in the thread.

I also ordered a couple of sets of the white Tamiya wheels too (#51580/1), to compare with.  And I'll drop back here once I have some proper comparative observations to share.

But for now...  I've already mounted and glued some generic long spike style tyres on to one set of the DE Speedlines, which went remarkably smoothly, with the glue settling nicely into the glue channel making the whole process really easy.

[mastino 1085]

And again, after a long long time I picket up this project.

Body supports removed and correct rear rims placed.

 

 

 PLUS type (2.4") on the left

 

Thanks to brandycmc "Hawkeye" to have found the mistake.

Now, i'm searching about some type of velcro tape to fix the body and match the 94eg! and Jim_GT-R body fixing  style. Suggestion about brand and dimension?

[mastino 1085]

I found the velcro tape in a mall and I started painting the body.

 

 

I closed holes made previously and used some stickers from the DURGA set and other generic Tamiya

 

This is the result...

 

 

 

 

 

 

now...clear wing and sticker or paint wing?

[Theibault 1535]

8 hours ago, mastino said:

I found the velcro tape in a mall and I started painting the body.

 

 

I closed holes made previously and used some stickers from the DURGA set and other generic Tamiya

 

This is the result...

 

 

 

 

 

 

now...clear wing and sticker or paint wing?

Clear wing. Racers always have clear wings.  (but do what you think you'll like)

 

[InsaneJim69 1584]

I'd say paint the wing but leave the gurney flap clear  Blue in the middle and the sides pink.

James

[TurnipJF 9192]

On 2017-5-7 at 1:44 AM, Theibault said:

Clear wing. Racers always have clear wings.

Why is that? I can't see it aiding visibility - quite the contrary. Is it because the way one cuts ones wing can give a competitive advantage and keeping it clear makes it more difficult for other competitors to see what you've done? Or is it simply that wings get destroyed quite regularly when racing and there isn't much point in making them look pretty?

[Effigy3 1267]

8 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Why is that? I can't see it aiding visibility - quite the contrary. Is it because the way one cuts ones wing can give a competitive advantage and keeping it clear makes it more difficult for other competitors to see what you've done? Or is it simply that wings get destroyed quite regularly when racing and there isn't much point in making them look pretty?

You're spot on with your 2nd guess.  Taking time to paint up a rear wing that's going to get all scratched up anyway is a waste of time.  Most racers I run with scuff the rear wing with a steel wool pad or similar to create a "frosted effect".  I can't even be bothered to do that!

[Effigy3 1267]

On 5/6/2017 at 11:01 AM, mastino said:

Oooh, that's pretty!

[Theibault 1535]

10 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Why is that? I can't see it aiding visibility - quite the contrary. Is it because the way one cuts ones wing can give a competitive advantage and keeping it clear makes it more difficult for other competitors to see what you've done? Or is it simply that wings get destroyed quite regularly when racing and there isn't much point in making them look pretty?

I think Effigy summed it up well. Like him, I don't scuff mine either. I don't race anymore but I still like the clear wing look. Old habits I guess. 

[ALEXKYRIAK 1046]

Awesome thread guys, thanks, really interesting and informative read. Learning a lot here, and trying to resist the temptation to now get one myself...

Looked into the big bore aeration dampers and jiminy cricket, they're expensive...!

[Finnsllc 917]

so how did the car turn out?

[mastino 1085]

Never used, It makes a good impression on the shelf