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Kyosho Optima re-release coming!

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Venom 15085 should fit this as well as the original since it's got a rounded case and is the same overall dimensions as the old packs. I run them in my old optimas and rere scorpion.

Hi ,

any suggestions for a lipo set up for the optima,I have no idea at all.

all the best

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The battery compartment has been updated to fit LiPo. You can fit hard case in standard length or shorty

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Venom 15085 should fit this as well as the original since it's got a rounded case and is the same overall dimensions as the old packs. I run them in my old optimas and rere scorpion.

The battery compartment has been updated to fit LiPo. You can fit hard case in standard length or shorty

thanks for the responses,also forgot to ask, what is a good brushless combo for the optima,another big unknown for me.

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Received mine from Tower today as well. It will probably jump all kits in my build queue. That is as soon as I get it's older brother the Tomahawk finished which is currently on my work bench half finished.

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thanks for the responses,also forgot to ask, what is a good brushless combo for the optima,another big unknown for me.

13.5 brushless should be plenty

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I have two of these, wrapped as a pair in bubble wrap and in a box, the smell from the tyres is still permeating through. Crazy :wacko::wacko::wacko::wacko:

You guys got me curious now. I planned to pass on the Optima but i have changed my mind now - just to find out if this tyre-thingy is really soo bad :lol:

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Tamiya kit tyres smell quite more-ish when first opened. The Optima tyres have a much greater chemical smell. Like taking a big whiff of a permanent marker from school 😁

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Is there a link to that video?

The video is in Chinese.

I hope it is helpful.

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You guys got me curious now. I planned to pass on the Optima but i have changed my mind now - just to find out if this tyre-thingy is really soo bad :lol:

I was going to suggest getting yourself off to Banzai Hobby to simply the buy the tyres seperately but, curiously, they have sold out. People must be grabbing them for a cheap means of getting stoned, lol.

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Hi ,

any suggestions for a lipo set up for the optima,I have no idea at all.

all the best

Here is another option for Lipo in 'stick pack' format (I have used Turnigy NanoTech Lipos for years and they have worked well): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__59154__Turnigy_nano_tech_4200mah_2S2P_40_80C_Hardcase_Stick_Pack_AR_Warehouse_.html

19692(9).jpg

19692s1(6).jpg

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[Edit: I misread Raman36's earlier reply and he was meaning 13.5T brushless (not brushed), which is approx. 3,300kV and a good match, sorry Raman :rolleyes: ]

thanks for the responses,also forgot to ask, what is a good brushless combo for the optima,another big unknown for me.

Tbh I think Raman36's "13.5T" is possibly a little hot. I guess it depends if you want as fast as possible (without breaking the vintage-design drivetrain), or 'vintage comparible' performance: The Le Mans 490 motor that Kyosho kinda recommend is brushed and only 30 turn (which I think comparible to Tamiya's approach of their stock 27T silver can - a careful choice for beginners). But if we look at performance, back in the day, a really hot motor would have been something like the Le Mans 240SB, which is a double 19T wind, topping out at 30,000 rpm; so if we divide that by the nominal 7.2V battery pack we get 4,166kV, which is roughly 16T in brushless speak.

But beware comparing 'Turns' between brushed and brushless as they never seem to match up exactly (and manufacturers 'Turns' ratings vary a lot even brushless to brushless). IMHO kV is a better comparison when choosing a brushless motor: You know your battery voltage (remember the nominal voltage for Lipo is 7.4V, not 7.2), so you can work out a motor's RPM. Also remember that whatever rated maximum rpm a vintage brushed motor had, a modern brushless motor with comparible rpm will be more powerful, because todays Lipo/brushless systems are far more efficient (and LiPos hold their voltage up way better than NiCad/NiMH batteries).

The original Turbo Optima came with a Le Mans 240S (I remember because I had one as a kid :wub: ), which was a single 19T wind, with 25,00 rpm = about 3,500kV and that is quick (not insanely fast, just fairly quick). So IMHO something around 3,500kV to 4,000kV should be about right - a little above 'vintage' performance, but not so powerful as to break the transmission too quickly.

FWIW I'm going to try a 3,800kV HobbyWing 'QuickRun' system in my re-re Optima, which should be plenty (I'm going to race it a bit, which is why I am going for brushless. Of course a 'proper' motor would be a Le Mans brushed ;)). Anyhoo, I'll stop babbling now! Hope this helps?

This might be useful (or Google "KV Vs Turns"): http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/newbie-general/461860-motor-turns-kv.html#post4478632

148355d1289343038-kv-chart.jpg

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With a 31 t pinion the FDR will be 7.45.. Which is still pretty high. That's why I recommended a 13.5 / not to be confused with a 13t brushed!

There is nothing vintage about the drive train on the optima, just like the scorpion it's a wolf in Sheeps clothing. The internals are made of modern materials and they have added a slipper. You will be hard pressed to blow the intervals.

Also 13.5 is rated at 3300 kv. The hobby wing you're installing has a slightly higher rating.

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With a 31 t pinion the FDR will be 7.45.. Which is still pretty high. That's why I recommended a 13.5 / not to be confused with a 13t brushed!

There is nothing vintage about the drive train on the optima, just like the scorpion it's a wolf in Sheeps clothing. The internals are made of modern materials and they have added a slipper. You will be hard pressed to blow the intervals.

Also 13.5 is rated at 3300 kv. The hobby wing you're installing has a slightly higher rating.

Hey Raman, I re-read your post and think I need to apologise :unsure: : You said "13.5 brushless should be plenty", but I had brushed on the brain. So yes that is in the ballpark kV to be a sensible motor for an Optima (around a 19T in old brushed money). I was trying to express that a brushless motor that was equivalent performance to a 13.5T brushed motor would be a little too hot (it'd be around a 9T brushless as 13.5T brushed is not equal to 13.5T brushless). Anyhoo, back to kV... ;)

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Please pardon my ignorance, does the Optima and Javelin share the same chassis? Much like how the Scorpion and Tomahawk share the same? Thanks in advance!

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Please pardon my ignorance, does the Optima and Javelin share the same chassis? Much like how the Scorpion and Tomahawk share the same? Thanks in advance!

In a word, yes.

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Interesting that the builder in the video is wearing a baseball cap, glasses and a medical face mask to hide his identity. I suppose he might just have a cold. :)

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I hate that shock seal, too.

super thin, hard to get on.

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Finally got my Optima built…it just about killed me.

First run, everything seemed to be okay until I ran it through the grass. All of a sudden, I heard a horrible metal grinding noise. I noticed that the front diff was not smooth at all and actually made a ‘squeaking’ sound. So, I spent my Sunday evening tearing apart the front end. Come to find out, I neglected to grease a metal washer inside the differential….stupid, stupid!

Now that I’ve got it put back together, both differentials feel buttery smooth but I’m having an issue with the drivetrain ‘locking up’ when I let off the throttle. The wheels don’t lock up, but it slows down pretty abruptly. I've never owned a belt driven car, so is that normal? Does it just need to be broken in a little?

FYI: I have a Reaktor 13.5T/2s Lipo system and it takes off pretty quickly, but the top end speed seems to be lacking.

I’m using the belt system and really, really don’t want to have to tear the entire car apart again to get to the gearbox…

Please help!

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Remove the pinion gear and then push your car on the ground to see if the drive-train is smooth or not.

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OK. That means too much drag. Then try belt tension. (read the instruction manual, step 40)

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Ah, thanks…I was wondering about belt tension. I wasn’t aware that you can adjust it

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