TN's Race and Rally Car Projects

[Truck Norris]

Ok, here's a runner:

I've got that and a Neo Scorcher, also a TRF416 with a Protoform shell, will get a pic of that soon.

Today I finished the Linder M3 - http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=128490&id=43050

[i_am_scarecrow]

I'm worried because I know you're working on a 306 Maxi and it will surely look amazing!

Oooooooooh I'm looking forward to that one!!!

How do you correct the offset?

[Truck Norris]

Me too! Got an FF-04 Evo Black Edition chassis for it so it'll be nice underneath too.

Offset is adjusted with washers between the wheel and wheel hex (or in this case the dummy brake disc hex). You can either use alu TRF washers or just nylon ones which are about 100 times cheaper.

[ChrisRx718]

How have you made the tow hook on the E30? Looks great. I'd love to see a shot of just the cockpit and cage, to show how you've done it!

[Truck Norris]

The tow hook is an electrical ring terminal painted red. I dip it straight into the paint jar and it gives a lovely smooth finish without wasting a load of paint like spraying something so small would.

Here's the cockpit before I added the visor. Will get a pic of the cage:

[Truck Norris]

Here's the cage for the M3:

Apologies for the inconsistent quality of the photos, I'm alternating between camera and iPhone.

[Nitomor]

Apologies for the inconsistent quality of the photos, I'm alternating between camera and iPhone.

Disgraceful

[Nitomor]

I should add, your iphone pics put my slr ones to shame!

[ChrisRx718]

Going to attempt my first cage soon...maybe!

You're an inspiration though buddy, keep up the amazing work!

[zomboided]

These are beautiful...immense work!

[StueyS]

Hi Truck. I have just got an M3 that I will be racing. I would like to get the car looking something close to yours, although I can't add camber. May I ask what wheel nuts you used? I want to space the wheels out as far as I can, and the kit nuts will be too wide to get the nylon section to grip.

[Truck Norris]

These are just 4mm half hex nuts from a hardware store. If you're running the car I'd advise using two in a kind of locknut way, or you're likely to loose a wheel. They are about a third of the width of the normal nylock ones so you should have enough thread to do that.

Unless you're very attached to your current wheels a higher offset wheel is probably a better idea, that way you can use the proper nuts.

[StueyS]

Thanks Truck. I found some (cough) hpi wheels with a 3mm offset which should suit in black. I'm not keen on wheels sitting back in the arches myself, loving the scale look :-)

[Truck Norris]

Another M3 done. Thought of a few improvements since the Linder so this one has:

- Cut out grille and brake vents

- Transponder dome on roof (I think that's what it is, I can't find any info anywhere)

- Longer, black roof aerial

- Added radiator (intercooler painted matte silver)

- Combination of silver and black body lines, silver on white, black on other colours

- Increased rear track, lowered ride height

- Added missing Auto Motor und Sport logo (had to omit 'und' as too small for my vinyl cutter)

- Stuck front Baumler plate to lexan and mounted with foam tape to give some depth

More pics in showroom: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=128525&id=43050

[ChrisRx718]

Looks great, just saw it on Facebook.

Where do you display all these beauties?

[Vrdetailing]

Can I ask what camera and lens you use.. Also what sort of light box.

[Truck Norris]

Looks great, just saw it on Facebook.

Where do you display all these beauties?

Thanks! Do you mean displayed around the house? I don't really like having them out so they just go back in the box when done.

Can I ask what camera and lens you use.. Also what sort of light box.

Canon 5D Mk3 with a 70-200 2.8L IS II, two Canon 600EX-RT with ST-E3-RT. One thing people get wrong a lot is the depth of field, blurring the back of the car. I shoot at f/32 which is as narrow as this lens will go.

I don't use a lightbox, each flash is in a 60x60 softbox and the background is a roll of 1200mm wide paper.

[Vrdetailing]

Thanks! Do you mean displayed around the house? I don't really like having them out so they just go back in the box when done.

Canon 5D Mk3 with a 70-200 2.8L IS II, two Canon 600EX-RT with ST-E3-RT. One thing people get wrong a lot is the depth of field, blurring the back of the car. I shoot at f/32 which is as narrow as this lens will go.

I don't use a lightbox, each flash is in a 60x60 softbox and the background is a roll of 1200mm wide paper.

Nice camera. I have an Eos 100.. And agree that when I shoot in auto the depth of field is reduced..

I must play a little more with mine.. I find the inbuilt flash a little harsh at times. I rarely use it.

[OLD KID]

These car's are a thing of beauty and real craftsmanship

Such a shame they are kept in there boxes

[Truck Norris]

It would be a shame if no-one saw them, but I do try and plaster them all over the net so plenty of people get to have a look!

Stealth mounting a body on a TT-02 with no extra parts

Here's a technique I discovered when trying to work out how to stealth mount a body. I buy most of my bodies separate so the majority come without post holes. I prefer the scale look with no holes so I wanted a method to mount them.

I had a few requirements for this:

- The method must allow precise location of the body to ensure the front to back and side to side position was exactly the same as intended with the original posts.

- The height must be tuneable to allow fine adjustment of ride height.

- The rear mount must work with a cockpit set without making visible holes in it.

The problem is most of the generic mounts don't do any of the above very well. I spent pretty much a hole day trying out various combinations until I had a thought - The holes in the front bumper mount on a TT-02 look very much like they are in the right position for the forward post mounts that the higher spec TA and TRF chassis use.

This turns out to be the case and a plan was formed. I drilled out the holes in the bumper mount to allow the body posts to pass through. I then used body pins to hole them in place like so:

The posts don't even need to be cut, this means I can revert to the normal mounting method at any time. Here you can see the original ends underneath:

Now I needed some way to hold the body in place on the posts. For this I use the B7 bumper cover. This is stuck to the shell. Precise location is easy as the shell has the forward body post locations marked with the little dimples:

As the kit comes with two of the B parts there are two B7 covers included even though only one is used. This gives a spare to use the same setup on the rear of the car. As the mount sits right at the back of the chassis they meet the body under the boot lid so this satisfies the requirement of not needing to cut visible holes in the cockpit set.

The height can be tuned by moving the pins and using 5mm rubber O rings either side to remove any play.

Now it's just a case of pushing the body onto the posts. The fit is reasonably tight which means the body won't fall off. It'll stand up to running too I would think although the body would probably come off in a roll, but I guess if you're precious enough to not want visible posts then you'll only be running lightly, if at all.

This works perfectly on my M3 shells which have a flat bonnet and boot, on a hatchback or car with a more sloping bonnet it would need some adaptation.

[Flerbizky]

Ok, here's a runner:I've got that and a Neo Scorcher, also a TRF416 with a Protoform shell, will get a pic of that soon.

Not in the best shape.. I think the definition of "not in the best shape" differs quite a bit between us

[volvotech]

TN - if its been said already, I'll say it again: thanks for sharing your techniques and ideas with us! These are very valuable tools I'll definitely be using in the near future. The tow hook idea is so simple and brilliant, that I think I'll be doing that on most of my bodies.

[Truck Norris]

I can't take credit for the tow ring idea, I got that from Victorious Secret: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=79810&sid=22525

Focus project bodies arrived

I had to buy a whole kit to get the 2002 body, but the 2003 I found separate. If you're eagle eyed you'll spot there's no wing for the 2003. Stickers and wheels no problem though.

Does anyone have a Focus WRC 2003 rear wing spare?

[InsaneJim69]

2002 Body and colour scheme is stunning, not a fan of the 2003 car at all though. Be interesting to see these when done

I managed to find a NIB Evo V body for my runner project

James

[svenb]

Are going to cut the tint bit out of the window decals for the 03 body? It's what I'm thinking about doing.

I have the 01,02 and the 03 bodies and think the 02 looks the best.