question about high torque servo savers

[topforcein]

Can high torque servo savers cause a non high torque servo to run slow

[Flerbizky]

Can't see why it should. The High Torque in the servo saver just means it takes more force (torque) to get it to do what a servo saver does.

[Backlash]

EDIT..

Lets look at servo ratings... Say that your servo is rated at 10Kg's/cm.. What that means is that if you were using a servo arm that was one centimetre long, then the servo could apply 10Kg of force.. If you used a 2 cm servo arm, then the servo could produce 5Kg for force.. If you used a 1/2 cm (5mm) arm, then it could produce 20KG of force.. (Servo arm length is measured from the centre of the servo output spline, to the point where the linkage attaches..) Understand..?

More here http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-servos.html

So getting back to your problem.. Now if the new High Torque is the same length as your old one (from the centre of the servo spline to the point where the linkage attaches), then the servo should run at the same speed...

However, if the linkage has been placed further out on the new High Torque servo saver, then your servo will have less torque than it did previously, and it may be struggling to move the load, and thus seems slower..

Also, what often happens with Tamiya kit supplied servo savers in high torque applications is that the servo will turn and it will just bend the spring, and not really move the load (i.e. move the wheels), but with a high torque servo saver, the spring is much stronger, so the relationship between the servo turning and load moving is much tighter, and this could make the servo seem slow if it is not rated high enough to overcome the load..

[XV Pilot]

High-torque servo savers won't affect a servo's speed, but I would argue that it is still not a good idea to run them on basic servos.

A high-torque servo typically has tougher gears to deliver the extra torque, and a high-torque servo saver has a stronger spring to transfer the extra torque to the steering mechanism.

However the stronger spring of the high-torque servo saver also transmits more force back to the servo in a collision, not a problem if the gears are tough enough to take it (as they typically are in a high-torque servo) but potentially damaging to the weaker gears of a basic servo.

[topforcein]

The make of the servos are "new power" the model is xl-38hmb bb-metal gear

The specs are

Speed 4.8v: 0.16sec/60(with a little o after the 60)

Speed 6.0v: 0.14sec/60( same with the o)

Torque 4.8v: 9.0kg/cm

Torque 6.0v: 11.0kg/cm

These servos have been installed in my bruiser with the steering one not having much travel the hightorque servo saver is on the steering servo and the kit saver is on the gear change servo.

[Darat76]

that little o after the 60 for the speed times is the degrees symbol.

lack of steering is caused by the end point adjustment on the radio gear, need to know more about your tx to help with this.

I didn't think there would be any damaging force fed back through to a gearbox shifter servo to warrant a servo saver on it, and i do think a 9kg servo on the gearbox shifter is a touch of overkill.

[topforcein]

that little o after the 60 for the speed times is the degrees symbol.

I did know it is the degrees symbol tbh but I couldn't find anything that would match it on my tablet.

The hight torque servo saver is on the steering servo and the kit servo is on the gearbox servo.

My transmitter is a spectrum dx6 witch I only brought a month or so back and ain't really had any time with it yet so this technology is all New to me.

I am thinking of using one of the servo savers that come in the box with the servo

[Darat76]

well, I have to admit to being incorrect, the shifter servo should have a servo saver on it, as the gears take a little to mesh, which I didn't know, and the high torque servo saver can only affect the travel if it is actually coming into contact with something making it stop short of full travel, if that's not the issue, then it's time to dive into the dx6 settings menus.

First your going to have to enter the main menu (all this is based on you using it in airplane mode and not heli mode) and scroll through it until you find the travel adj option, in that list you need to increase the travel amount on the aileron option. best way to do this is to hold full left or right, and start winding it up while watching all of the steering linkages (best to do this with the car on a stand so that the wheels don't restrict movement), once the servo turns the steering to the limit stop increasing, let the steering center, then go from lock to lock a couple of times. At this point you will want to slowly move the stick out to full lock, back off a little slowly, and go back to full lock slowly, do this as many times as you feel you need to to ensure you don't have the travel so high that the servo is trying to push the steering beyond it's limit, but still getting full steering.

You'll want to do that last part while also adjusting the travel amount up and down a point or 2 until your happy that you have full steering without having the servo overworking and ending up burning out.

It would be a good idea to check your rudder travel is right for the gear selector while your there. A servo clicking or buzzing is a sign that the servo is trying to push to far.

[topforcein]

I did attempt to do what you explaining yesterday but as I said this is my first technology transmitter and it's gonna take a fare bit of time for me to get to know it and the adjustments on it also.

Thanks for that last post and taking time to explain