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JNSD1

JD's Bruiser build

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I left mine about a week before wet sanding and a polish with menzerna 2400/4000

I didn't go overboard, only spending perhaps two hours maximum on the finishing, it will be an occasional runner, I used BMW Mini rattle cans ..

F4F39FAC-E5BA-4E4F-84D0-4AFA79F27DD6_zps

By no means perfect but good enough for me, if I'd spent another 20 hours on it I'm not sure it would have be hugely better.

Looks brilliant mate! Did you wet sand the paint then clear coat then use the Menzerna's?

Thanks for sharing, as when you look at mine now it's clear there's zero depth yet. The thing I have never done is polish raw paint, then lay a clear down, then polish the clear. To be honest I probably don't really want to do all the polishing then clear it, then do all the polishing again. But if that's what's needed, then that's what's needed!

Here's my polish ready to go... when the paint's set! May have a bit more than needed ;)

6206C622-DED4-4152-8C5F-DE2287167D34_zps

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I did do a light wet sand before clear - i was a bit concerned that with my colour being metallic that i'd start to induce colour variation so kept it to a minimium, probably something like 1600 grit.

I did the same after the first hit of clear, then second coat of clear, then some wet sanding 2000-300 grit, then the Menzerna 2400, and finished with fine grade, may even have been the 4500 that you have. I'd say I'd have to have done a LOT of final polishing with 4500 to see any real benefit after the 2400, but if you are stepping from the 1500 then I'd hope you'd see some depth and hue improvements.

I do have areas of light orange peel on the sides of the rear bed, but as it was intended to be an occassional runner I wasn't bothered. I dare say when i get to my Bruiser and Mountaineer builds I might be a bit more obsessive :lol:

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This isn't a great photo, phone camera in poor lighting but you can see it's reasonable but not perfect paint. At least I'm have the lights done and only the umber plates to add, can finally get some proper pics and a bit of fun time :)

IMG_1433_zps5fh9uiv6.jpg

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Looks nice - you gotta get some snaps of that baby in the sun after all that polishing!

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Looks nice - you goota get some snaps of that baby in the sun after all that polishing!

Sun ? UK ? maybe not :(

anyway good luck with the sanding and polishing, suggest you keep away from it for a week, even at your ambient temperatures.

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Sun ? UK ? maybe not :(

anyway good luck with the sanding and polishing, suggest you keep away from it for a week, even at your ambient temperatures.

Yeah sorry, didn't think about that :) I'll keep my hands off her for a week or so, after that all bet's are off!

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No need to polish before clear, just a sand with 1500.

You don't want photos in the sunshine either, that will just produce hotspots and blown out areas on your photo as well as excessive contrast in the shadows.

For the best results you want nice soft diffused light, so either outside before or after sunrise (magic / golden hour) or inside with lights shone through a thin white sheet, paper or a white blind.

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Just a cautionary word on clear coat. When you do polish the clear coat, make sure you fit the front grille first, if you look carefully at my pic below, on the front fender from the top left of the indicator back, there is a hairline split in the clear coat where the body flexed when I polished it as I was polishing the shell before the grille was fitted. Stupid error, thankfully it doesn't show up much ( less so when the decals get fitted) but it is gutting after all the effort and I'd hate to see it happen to someone else.

I just used a Farecla polish. I didn't do any wet sanding on mine but after all the practising and using a 20/80 cellulose thinners/1k Clear coat mix it goes on very well straight out of the airbrush.

medium.image.jpeg.186ecae230463a099202e5

Some very nice examples above, I'll follow Trucks advice and try and get a decent pic when this country allows for a nice sunrise, on a weekend day, when its not raining etc lol!!

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You guys are hilarious. All this talk about paint not being perfect - followed every time with a pic of a paintjob you could use as a shaving mirror.

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No need to polish before clear, just a sand with 1500.

You don't want photos in the sunshine either, that will just produce hotspots and blown out areas on your photo as well as excessive contrast in the shadows.

For the best results you want nice soft diffused light, so either outside before or after sunrise (magic / golden hour) or inside with lights shone through a thin white sheet, paper or a white blind.

No need to polish before clear, just a sand with 1500.

You don't want photos in the sunshine either, that will just produce hotspots and blown out areas on your photo as well as excessive contrast in the shadows.

For the best results you want nice soft diffused light, so either outside before or after sunrise (magic / golden hour) or inside with lights shone through a thin white sheet, paper or a white blind.

Thanks for the tip. So are you saying even if it's dull, then you hit it with a clear coat it creates the shine again?

I thought that I would have to hit it with like 1500, 2000, 2500 and get it a shiny as possible - then hit it with the clear as whatever is under the clear is what the clear represents...?

And yeah, I should know better than the direct sun quote, I just love the lens flair ;)

You guys are hilarious. All this talk about paint not being perfect - followed every time with a pic of a paintjob you could use as a shaving mirror.

I know right O.C.D weirdos unite...

I'll do all this work then go bashing with it probably. For me though, it's learning the craft / skill. Get it as perfect as I can, learn something new, be better than the last model I made, then take good photos, then go drive it ;)

Haven't seen this one before from Tamiya USA, it's very helpful and covers off everything really: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/painting-with-tamiya-synthetic-lacquers-35?category_id=8#.VtjJJJN97MU

sun.gif

This is also good (turning into a paint thread quite fast :) )

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Yes, if you sand it and it's dull, once you clear it will be shiny again. Try it out on a plastic spoon or drinks bottle and you'll see what I mean.

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TS-13. I read horror stories about it cracking unless it was applied within 15 mins of a final colour coat, but it transpired that those reports were based on the old formulation from years ago (before TS paints were temporarily unavailable in the UK for a while).

I normally do the final colour coat, wait a week, sand then clear. For smaller items like a driver helmet if I get a nice smooth final colour coat I'll clear it the same day, 20 mins or so later.

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Thanks Truck, I thought as much. I must admit the amount of horror stories on the web of ruined paint jobs due to the evil TS-13 is enough to put anyone off using it ever again. However when I did the Tundra I didn't give two hoots to timing etc and just laid it on the next day, then sanded a day later and laid the next coat on and it came of mint.

So on that theme of "who cares" I cleared the body tonight with the first coat, looks ok, but not wet enough for my liking so will sand tomorrow and hit it again.

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I have found the best finish I have ever seen is just after you have layed a good clear coat down.

The key is to get the final clear coat wet enough so it dries to a perfect sheen.

The minute you touch it after with a cloth its started to microscopically scratch.

Dull rough finishes are usually due to the paint final coat being to thin or drying too quickly..

Its a perfect moment between wet and a run and takes experience.

I sometimes nail it and other times get it wrong..

IMG_5542.jpg

asu6apem.jpg

And I usually land em on the roof the next day Lol

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Well some more progress, made some mods to Calvin - he's come up alright but it's also clearly evident to me that to do good figures is a whole new skill set that I'm not prepared to invest in at this stage!

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Canopy Glue for lenses - dries clear and doesn't discolour the lenses.
 
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Well made a critical mistake with the glue selection on this one, made a mess and completely cocked it up... had to pull it off, sand it back and polish it up to as good as new...

28313883829_5e92a9bf24_b.jpg 
 
After the clear was not at all happy with the look or finish (these photos actually look worse than in real life!) So started to polish the paint as was not happy at all, came up ok but rubbed the bonnet a little far and got a white spot... so had to respray today... GAH!!!!!
 
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Started to clean up the wiring, I'm happy with the look.
 
40094892051_a5d168aea8_b.jpg
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Nice neat wiring.. And that paintwork is shining up nicely.. I have had many a clear coat craze a little like that.

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the clear coat was just trying to give you that aged spider web look.....

or that cheap backyard "mate special" spray job that I've seen on so many cars around where I live, the other common one here is the flat black over sprayed finish from multiple automotive rattle cans and next to no masking on the cars....

and then there is my favourite version, the blinged out to the max in the weeds v6/straight6 (occasional v8) statesman/ltd that parks on the road coz it can't go up the drive without being beached as bro....

wannah chip?

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the clear coat was just trying to give you that aged spider web look.....

or that cheap backyard "mate special" spray job that I've seen on so many cars around where I live, the other common one here is the flat black over sprayed finish from multiple automotive rattle cans and next to no masking on the cars....

and then there is my favourite version, the blinged out to the max in the weeds v6/straight6 (occasional v8) statesman/ltd that parks on the road coz it can't go up the drive without being beached as bro....

wannah chip?

Surprisingly the photo made it look far worse that it was - to most people it would have looked pretty darn good. But none the less I sanded it back and re-sprayed!

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agreed, saw the first photo and thought dayum, what happened there?! the second photo it looked ok, but very dull, no deep glossy wet shine to it

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I like the braided wire sleeve, I've been looking for some for mine off ebay that looked quite nice but not sure what diameter to order it in. The one I've been looking at is expandable. It looks far better than the spiral wrap I currently have on mine anyway!

Welcome to the world or painting with high expectations ;) I had a similar thing at one stage with gently rubbing back the clear coat and going through the paint which meant a repaint! I feel your frustration lol!

Looking good nonetheless!

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I like the braided wire sleeve, I've been looking for some for mine off ebay that looked quite nice but not sure what diameter to order it in. The one I've been looking at is expandable. It looks far better than the spiral wrap I currently have on mine anyway!

Welcome to the world or painting with high expectations ;) I had a similar thing at one stage with gently rubbing back the clear coat and going through the paint which meant a repaint! I feel your frustration lol!

Looking good nonetheless!

I got the braided stuff from Hobby King here - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/RC_PRODUCT_SEARCH.asp?strSearch=wire+mesh+guard. They have a ton of different sizes all for cheap so I got lots of different diameters as I had no idea what would be right. I sues it on the wires for the Tundra as well.

As for the paint... the new blue I laid down looks really good, I'm almost scared to do a clear now as can't bring myself to think about what would happen if it messed up again. I think the truck would go in the closet for another 6+ months if that happened!

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