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First up, that esc should have an auto detect feature fitted for the voltage cut out, or if it's like tekin esc's, you need to set it from 4s to 3s, this can be fun (read annoying) to do with out a program card or something of the like.

Now the easy part, don't go cutting wires and working them here there and everywhere, simple solution, make a dummy plug, just take a matching unused (or used if you wish) plug and solder 1 length of wire to both terminals, and plug it into one of the leads off the esc, that completes the circuit, and leaves it open for you to run twin 2s, or twin nimh/nicad batteries in the future.

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First up, that esc should have an auto detect feature fitted for the voltage cut out, or if it's like tekin esc's, you need to set it from 4s to 3s, this can be fun (read annoying) to do with out a program card or something of the like.

Now the easy part, don't go cutting wires and working them here there and everywhere, simple solution, make a dummy plug, just take a matching unused (or used if you wish) plug and solder 1 length of wire to both terminals, and plug it into one of the leads off the esc, that completes the circuit, and leaves it open for you to run twin 2s, or twin nimh/nicad batteries in the future.

Yes I do believe it has an auto detect. The setting for my Tekin FXr is for low voltage letting the ESC know what battery it has plugged into it.

As for the cutting, it's waaaayyyyy too late for that! I've converted everything to Deans Plugs and also made a plug to complete the circuit.

For some reason though I can't program it. I spent about an hour and it's not playing nice.

The green light is flashing fast during programming at the end. I can set it for full forward, then it flashes twice as it's supposed to do, then when I take the control to full reverse it doesn't do anythign to complete the programming. I will have to try another reciever and control later to see if it's my disgustingly cheap but oh so nice Turnigy GTX3 :P

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Well had to make the executive decision to remove the old school Green and Yellow wires, which to be honest I didn't want to do. As a 1987 fan of anything retro, these coloured wires represent Tamiya to me, so having to solder the wires direct was annoying.

I don't have any good quality Japanese Bullets in the 3.9mm as needed as they are really hard to get / expensive for what they are. I also fully well know that they are not awesome for power transfer etc etc etc etc etc but what the heck, just pwoer up as I am doing and don't worry ;)

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Put Deans plugs on everything, batteries, ESC and other ESC's last night. I've had it with having mis-matched electronics. However again, the real Deans plugs are expensive, but I definitely notice that they are easier to solder and conduct the heat better than the ones from Hobby King...
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I'm getting better at soldering.. Only took me 30 years (not joking)
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Finally I made a nice little bridge thing for the other lead...
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Will report back later on today... Going to drive Vanessa now on 2S with my new shocks :P
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Ok so finally got the ESC working, it's the Turnigy GTX3 that's sketchy, I had to mess with the EPA after it had binded and all sorts of other stuff you shouldn't have to do, regardless, SHE'S ALIVE!!!!

First observation, it's now scary.

This is my smallest Lipo pack that's a 1500mAh 3S the power is amazing. WHen I put the bigger and new one in I can't even imagine.

Speed before as you may remember was (at best) 17.4kmh, now it's gone to 22.7kmh and to be completely honest, I was scared at this speed on the road, these things do not handle well and crashing was always not far away. On the beach however this will be so good. Let's be honest, these things should never be driven on hard surfaces!

4E1ECEE2-CE41-4651-95E3-79F4C2F1EFAC_zps

In the garage, one handed, scary.

 

 

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Put 3s in it they said. It'll be fun they said.

Argggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh -------->

6870922D-BD61-4894-B380-6295F9F761E9_zps

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you're not the first and most certainly not the last ;)

axle strengthening plates required (and new axle parts).

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Very cool topic, will be doing something similar myself in the coming months, getting my Clod running again (but I sticking with 2S :P)

Loving the videos, keep them coming.

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Lol, that's insane, had me laughing out loud at those donuts and drifts, excellent!!

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I like the videos, especially the way you can slide the back end under power. BTW, I managed to break my old clods wheel off in exactly the same way running a 7.2V battery and mild motors, so don't feel too bad about it ;)

I used my Jugg2 a few times with the same power setup (3s and silver cans), and it handles completly differently.

Driving it on grass it was very easy to do a backflip from a standing start (more grip on the grass) and similarly rapid acceleration. I probably shouldn't have let my son drive it (he was 2 at the time :) )

As we're talking 3S, here's an old video of my TXT-1 on 3S and 1/8 scale 4274 Ezrun brushless system on 0 timing and 50% punch. Motor and speedo can take 4S as well.......

http://youtu.be/TzQ2UTCl4-I

3S LiPo is awesome power for the money on silver cans, it should be the standard power option for large monster trucks.

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Argggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh -------->

6870922D-BD61-4894-B380-6295F9F761E9_zps

and there is a first hand example of why I haven't gone 3s lipo, or hot motors on my clod *lol*

the biggest issue with clod axles is the unsprung weight, which is pretty much all the weight of the whole truck. ways to fix this are alloy braces in the chubs, and tyres with more cushioning like the new proline ones. in a theoretical sense more suspension travel and softer springs should help to lessen the stresses on the axle plastics, but in practical application it may do nothing more than making the clod even more unstable.

from where you are now, I'd go with ditching the kit ladder bars, picking up an extended length 4 link system from cpe along with a lift kit, a set of 4 (or 8 if you desire) alloy shocks running soft springs and 30 to 50w oil with either 2 hole 1.4mm piston, or 3 hole 1.3mm piston, a set of proline destroyers with either your stock wheels on a set of wideners, or the proline brawlers with the 17.5mm off set.

doing all that will give you more impact cushioning through the tyres, the extended 4 link counters the wheel base shortening of the lift kit keeping it fairly true to as it is stock, the lift kit gives you more clearance between the chassis and the axles, which, as I said before, might help with breakages, and the widening will bring down the amount of instability generated by the lift kit, and keep it closer to what it is atm.

down side to doing all that is you will need to mess with the steering again, as it throws the links all out of whack with the single servo setup, to the point that may require changing to on axle dual servo steering.

We did welcome you to the wonderful world of wallet emptying clod buster ownership, right?

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Once you start upgrading a Clod, it doesn't stop.

Mine gradually broke everything (Clodzilla 2 chassis and metal 4 links), I locked out the rear steer and front mounted a beefy servo, and as Darat said, soft suspension helps to absorb the bangs.

CPE do some strengthening brackets for the C-hubs that may help, or alloy tubes if your wallet is deep enough.

Clod-talk and Clod-Parts are good sites to look for advice and shop from.

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Admittedly I should have given the disclaimer that the 3S wasn't technically responsible, it was something else, as I experienced some savage glithcing and the steering was going haywire. It wasn't going that fast but just clipped the wall on that wheel and snapped in an instant.

Someone mentioned that there may be glitching, I think that it is happening to say the least and this was an annoying and costly way to learn that!

As for upgrading, I don't want to on this truck. The thing that I love is the retro look, if I wanted to go down the insane mod path I would grab a new Super Clodbuster and go from there as I would be less paranoid of it and less nostalgic.

I feel on the beach and dirt this mix of power will be perfect, it's very controllable, just can't hit solid objects! But that goes for a 7.2v Nimh or a 3S Lipo really.

If I was to start jumping it etc then it's all over, but I won't do that as I know how that ends... My MERV 1/16 taught me that... (god bless his soul ~ circa 2010)

 

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I'm feeling inspired to crack out the bullhead courtesy of this thread! I want to keep the mods mild, is that even possible I wonder?

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it is, my clod is living proof

stock kit with cpe stock steering links, full bearings, new bumpers at both ends fitted with servos for dual servo setup, and that's it. oh and I should add mine is a super clod 2012(?) release.

I do know where there is an original box art stock clod, just haven't heard if the owner is interested in selling it yet.

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I'm feeling inspired to crack out the bullhead courtesy of this thread! I want to keep the mods mild, is that even possible I wonder?

Inspiration is good, that's what these forums are for, helping the addiction ;)

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Inspiration is good, that's what these forums are for, helping the addiction ;)

helping or feeding?

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Inspiration is good, that's what these forums are for, helping the addiction ;)

Inspired me to get my Clod off the shelf yesterday and give it a blast around the garden :)

Tyres need gluing on and it needs pulling apart to fit the ballraces I bought for it 12 months ago (too expensive to fit when I built it as a 14 year old in the early 90's).

Even so they look so good bouncing around :D Love it :D

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Inspired me to get my Clod off the shelf yesterday and give it a blast around the garden :)

Tyres need gluing on and it needs pulling apart to fit the ballraces I bought for it 12 months ago (too expensive to fit when I built it as a 14 year old in the early 90's).

Even so they look so good bouncing around :D Love it :D

Nice, photos please!

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Nice, photos please!

Go on then ;)

IMG_2319_zpsjd652vrg.jpg

100% stock bar a very old Futaba ESC and a twin motor conversion lead on it.

As I said, had it since new but with battery technology in the 90's giving about 5 minutes of run time it never got used, things are so much better now B)

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Go on then ;)

IMG_2319_zpsjd652vrg.jpg

100% stock bar a very old Futaba ESC and a twin motor conversion lead on it.

As I said, had it since new but with battery technology in the 90's giving about 5 minutes of run time it never got used, things are so much better now B)

Yeah, with the longer run times, we have many more opportunities to break the truck before the battery goes flat :D

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B2C7BD8D-B28D-4686-847C-97B7ADD0D230_zps

And with the power to weight difference of Lipo batteries, silly things like this are possible.

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And got the UBEC onto the ESC... Looking forward to running her again, she feels a lot stiffer with the CPE anti-rotation brackets on her...

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Just finally got her all back together with the bruiser stick controller (was concerned about the turnigy GTX3) and also Lipo low voltage alarm and decided to go for a night run. What a blast!!!

Must admit, 3S with this combination of stock motors seems perfect to me. On sand it will be sensation, I'm planning on going tomorrow. You do get traction roll on grass and she flips easily, but on a big beach he will be perfect. Love it!!!

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hmm, do you have a camera around my house somewhere?!?!

have those exact 2 trucks, in the same colors!! with led's fitted *lmao*

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