Whats happened to my motor

[Pumesta]

I at most have put six battery packs threw this and it's fell apart

Looks like the plastic has melted

[Backlash]

What motor is it?

What "turns" is the motor?

What car are you running it in?

What gear ratio are you using?

Did you run 6 battery packs one after the other, or did you allow the motor to cool before running the next battery??

Yes, it does look to have overheated..

[Pumesta]

What motor is it?

What "turns" is the motor?

What car are you running it in?

What gear ratio are you using?

Did you run 6 battery packs one after the other, or did you allow the motor to cool before running the next battery??

Yes, it does look to have overheated..

Sorry yes more info would have been helpful

It's a Orion 17T, running it in my King blackfoot, using standard ratio (I don't think you can change this), I only have on battery ATM so it would have been over a few day

[MAD RACER]

It may have not been over geared BUT more so over run.

Yes one battery but did you run it till the battery dumped?? How many Milliamps is the battery used? I only run my brushed motors for no more then 5 min and check it.

Brushed motors generate more heat then brushless due to no brush contact.

[Pumesta]

It may have not been over geared BUT more so over run.

Yes one battery but did you run it till the battery dumped?? How many Milliamps is the battery used? I only run my brushed motors for no more then 5 min and check it.

Brushed motors generate more heat then brushless due to no brush contact.

The battery is a 4000mah 20c lipo, I did stop half was threw and checked it, it felt warm but not so much that you couldn't hold it

[Percymon]

Before you drop another motor in it, check the drivetrain for any tightness, binding - you may have an internal failure thats resulted in the motor getting too hot.

[t3garett]

I reckon it was over geared, also methor r motors have quite hard brush springs which is good for pure performance but generates more heat.

I see the endbell has melted so I think its quite dead now.

Sorry that s happened.

[Wooders28]

Gearing also depends on the surface too.

On asphalt,you can run fairly tall gears,but grass,especially long grass (1/4 wheel height) will need low gearing.

I managed to do this to my dark impact,even running with the smallest pinion I could.

[Pumesta]

Help !!! What am I doing wrong? I have now managed to cook a brand new Tamiya Sport Tuned motor after only two runs. All was going well doing some doughnuts wheelies etc, then the truck suddenly lost power. The motor was so warm that you couldn't touch it and smelt burned . Even 30 mins later there was still heat in the motor. So charged up the battery and the motor is noisy and about half the power it should be. Now as far as I am aware the gearing on the KBF is non-adjustable and the sport tuned is a recommended hop up. I can feel no binding in the drive train and the original silver can doesn't even brake a sweat.

[lentner3]

How frustrating. Can we assume it is a 2s not a 3s battery? Sounds like there has to be some kind of resistance in the setup. Might be intermittent if it feels OK certainly shouldn't be killing a motor with stock setup and a sports tuned. Time for a strip down?

[Pumesta]

How frustrating. Can we assume it is a 2s not a 3s battery? Sounds like there has to be some kind of resistance in the setup. Might be intermittent if it feels OK certainly shouldn't be killing a motor with stock setup and a sports tuned. Time for a strip down?

Yip just a 2s, when I first got the truck a couple of months ago the first thing I did was strip the gearbox down and fit bearings, everything looked ok. The rear wheels spin easily and continue to even with just a flick of the finger. I guess it's possible that I just abused the life out of it. I was running it in the street so it was getting a lot of full throttle launches, followed quickly buy no throttle turn and then full throttle again. Then I found some gravel and many many donuts followed lol. Probably not the best way to brake in a new motor . Well I have ordered a new one and a heat sink ordered (thank goodness for the Amazon vouchers I got for Xmas) , we shall see if it lasts any longer

[Darat76]

before you put the new motor back in, double check to make sure it's all spinning freely in the gearbox and diff.

when you get the new motor it's going to be best if you take the time to seat the brushes, couple of ways to do this, first using a dremel or drill, clamp onto the shaft and just spin it for a couple of minutes, the speed it turns doesn't matter to much this way. The 2nd way is to put voltage through the motor, this way there is a catch, not to much voltage, around 4ish volts max, so an AA battery or 2 for very roughly 5 minutes.

Another way I've heard about is to stick the motor in water and run it, don't recommend doing this myself.

the reason for doing this is new brushes in a new motor are square faced, but the commuter they press against is obviously rounded, what this does is give a very small contact point for the voltage to pass through which increases resistance and generates heat, but getting the motor to spin without going flat out gives the commuter time to cut it's curve into the brushes giving a better contact point and lowing that resistance before taking on the the drive train and terrain resistance.

with completely stock gearing, wheels, and tyres you ~shouldn't~ need a heat sink for the motor on tarmac, gravel, or slightly long grass, you may need it for fairly long grass or other boggy or high resistance surface like wet clay, clingy mud, or very loose and deep dry sand.

edit: make sure your front wheels are free spinning also

Edited April 16, 2016 by Darat76

[lentner3]

This certainly is a bit of a puzzle. As Darat stated you shouldn't be having heat issues with your setup and the way you have described your driving so there must be another problem because it has happened more than once already. Wearing in the motor brushes is worth doing and may have contributed but I doubt that that's the main cause here. Did the car get stuck anywhere when the throttle was still engaged as this can quickly burn a motor if the wheels aren't allowed to spin for a couple of seconds as current flys up. Like under a 1:1 car?

[Percymon]

How free is the diff - have to got it set up with stiff grease ? Just wondering if a firm diff is putting extra strain back in the motor when you are doing 'donuts'

[Darat76]

oh, just had a thought, open up your gear box, and check the play in all the gear shafts, if something is moving around to much it could be slightly binding up which will be throwing resistance back at the motor, the old spin check won't work for this, as you can't spin the wheels fast enough and shake the gear box around to unsettle the gears.

When doing this check, try to move the shaft end that is in the bearing forward or backward or even up and down as the other end will flop about, and while it's open, have a good gawk at the wear pattern on the teeth of all the gears, make sure there are no unusual patterns or gouges in them.

[Wooders28]

One thing you've not mentioned is the speed controller,what are you running?

Is it meant for a sensored brushless and trying to alter timing etc? (if it would do that?)

[Darat76]

not many brushless esc's will run a tamiya sport tuned brushed motor

[Pumesta]

One thing you've not mentioned is the speed controller,what are you running?

Is it meant for a sensored brushless and trying to alter timing etc? (if it would do that?)

Nothing special just an HPi sc-15wp one. Have the standard motor back in so going to take it out for a quick blast and keep checking the temperature and see what happens

[Wooders28]

not many brushless esc's will run a tamiya sport tuned brushed motor

Didn't think there would be many,but running out of straws to clutch!

[Darat76]

Didn't think there would be many,but running out of straws to clutch!

you can still see the straws?? i was positive the last of them went up in smoke with the last motor....

I know the tamiya tble esc's can run brushless motors, but it needs to be set to it, and one of the places I go to for my rc racing gear has an old one for a measly $350ish nzd....

[Pumesta]

So took it out and it ran great for 15 mins I kept checking the motor and it got warm but you could comfortably hold your your finger on it. Then a sudden loss of power and the motor was much warmer. Thankfully it cooled down and worked ok. What I did notice is that sometimes when going into reverse the truck would go very slowly and bounce and jerk up and down on the rear suspension. It sounds like something is unhappy in the gearbox but what? It doesn't do it all the tome and going forward appears to be ok

[Darat76]

hmm, new questions:

is your radio gear 2.4g or am/fm?

were you trying to turn at the same time as the jumpy jerky reversing happened? if so what's the steering servo brand, and specs?

[Pumesta]

hmm, new questions:

is your radio gear 2.4g or am/fm?

were you trying to turn at the same time as the jumpy jerky reversing happened? if so what's the steering servo brand, and specs?

Just running old school 27 mhz, Can't remember if I was trying to turn or not, but if you stopped and went into reverse again it usually worked ok. The servo is just a standard Acoms AS-12

[lentner3]

Gear box rebuild needed for sure. Might be debri in there that keeps jamming.

[Darat76]

ok

first your crystals could be on the way out, causing multiple phantom command signals to hit the rx, keep the tx antenna in the retracted position and see if you can cause the steering to jitter or the motor or even both by blocking line of sight between the tx and rx with your body or a car body, a solid wood fence etc, do this carefully, some old rx's give full throttle commands when they lose signal.

If you have a spare servo switch it out, as unlikely as it is, it could be giving feed back or over drawing on the bec circuit.

and as lentner3 says, if you haven't stripped the gear box since the first motor did it's impression of a stove element, now would be the time to do it as you may have a broken tooth or more on one or more of the gears