NobbySideways 113 Posted April 13, 2016 Hi there, just got a couple of questions about the Alloy components on the market if people would be so kind? I've done a forum search and read up on what has been written so far, just trying to ensure I have it right in my head. The questions are underlined for those who can't be bothered to read all my ramblings. I've got a DT03, my two boys have DT02s. I'm running brushless and lipo, one boy has Lipo, one a hot motor (Dad has to be fastest, its the rules. And I have the grown up budget). Looking at the tuning parts available I wonder how much is bling and how much is useful? For example the alloy wishbones are touted as improving strength, but I can't help but think that by increasing their strength we just push the impact forces into a harder to replace component? I've already snapped one chassis (as noted in the Shortest Runs thread...). So realistically, replacing the wishbones means replacing a flexible item for one that will push the impact into other components. The alloy battery brace, surely heavier than the plastic one and has no structural improvement. The servo mount, ok, I can potentially see the point of that as it would reduce slop in the steering, but again a bit of flex there might just save my servo in the event of a thump? So far I've got CVA dampers, ball bearings throughout, steel pinion, alloy C-hubs (in the post...), carbon front damper posts (snapped my old one twice over, bored of replacing it). I've just snapped my rear damper mounts so I guess if that happens again I'll go carbon there too. What else should I be improving? Have I hit the ceiling of what is realistically worth upgrading? Because if I have I'll need another car to play with: I get bored... I'm aware I seem to be breaking a lot of things; to be fair I've had my DT03 since they first came out and we get a lot of use and enjoyment out of them. The damage I've had has largely been the result of driver error. I'm still a newbie when it comes to actually getting the thing round the track. Thanks for any advice you can give, much appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gruntfuggly 562 Posted April 13, 2016 Alloy is mostly all about bling, IMHO. Plastic flexes and absorbs impact - it just doesn't look as nice and shiny... Get another car anyway... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted April 13, 2016 Get another car anyway... Don't say that! It's hard enough paying the mortgage as it is! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted April 13, 2016 Alloy hubs can sometime be an advantage, but arms are for shelf bling only. They add rigidity, hence transferring all impact stress to the hing pin area, result bent hinge pins at best, broken chassis tub more likely 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted April 13, 2016 If you've not already read it this is a useful DT-02 guide http://www.thercracer.com/2013/10/tamiya-dt02-guide-mods-tuning-and-tips.html?m=0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted April 13, 2016 If you've not already read it this is a useful DT-02 guide http://www.thercracer.com/2013/10/tamiya-dt02-guide-mods-tuning-and-tips.html?m=0 Thank you. I did wonder about turnbuckles but I don't know enough to use anything but the standard settings. My son has turnbuckles on his; we just spend all the time clicking them back on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaylon 235 Posted April 13, 2016 I have two DT-03's and three DT-02's.. After Ball bearings and shocks I always do alloy C-Hubs and Rear Knuckles. i NEVER do suspension arms on any of my cars, as mentioned earlier it's moves the stress to more valuable areas. I am going to be adding the alloy servo mount in both my DT-03's though as I've found it adds a very nice amount of inner rigidity to the whole chassis and does improve handling without stressing anything. I've only got Turnbuckles on two of the cars atm but probably will update most... "My son has turnbuckles on his; we just spend all the time clicking them back on" That's probably a good thing, maybe you'd be replacing broken parts if it were not for the turnbuckles hehe Also, I have a few sets of 12mm hex front adapters so I can use lots of wheel and tyre combos... K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted April 13, 2016 I tried those front wheel adaptors and couldn't get them to work. If the alloy rear hubs are worthwhile then I'll invest in those. Thanks for all the advice everyone Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaylon 235 Posted April 13, 2016 I tried those front wheel adaptors and couldn't get them to work. If the alloy rear hubs are worthwhile then I'll invest in those. Thanks for all the advice everyone I use these ones .. New GPM ones ... K 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted April 13, 2016 I use these ones .. New GPM ones ... K Thats the ones I tried! I felt like a right idiot. When I did up the nut it all went tight... I did wonder if you were supposed to rely on the locking nylon of the locknut but that just seemed like bad engineering. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1218 Posted April 14, 2016 A Hi-Torque servo saver..... Make that next buggy a DB01, it will stay on the track unbelievably better than the DT03 and has shirt loads of Hop-Ups A. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
werewolf 72 Posted April 14, 2016 I personally shy away from alloy upgrades as much as possible. I race a Kyosho RB6 and the only alloy part I have on that is the steering plate (ackerman plate) because that broke in a dumb collision and is a PITA to replace. Other than that I have not broken a single thing on it in 2 years of racing. On the other hand we have a member in our club who drives a Kyosho ZX5 Lazer with alloy front and rear shock towers and he keeps destroying his diff housing because of them. Just as Percymon said: you want the cheaper and easier to replace parts to brake instead of transferring stress to other parts that are more difficult or more expensive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 4470 Posted April 14, 2016 The DT02 is very tough IMO. If you're breaking shock towers, make sure that your chassis is bottoming out (slapping the ground) before whatever dampers are fitted reach their maximum travel. If the dampers reach maximum travel then this puts stress on the towers. As above mentioned, adjustable suspension arms are very good too as the ball connector tends to just pop off rather than break anything. Pop back on and carry on! Don't be tempted by blue alloy or lightweight aluminium ball connectors here either; they shouldn't be used wherever there is 'high stress', they can sheer off (I've learned from painful experience). My DT02 yesterday; Mrs bought me a skateboard ramp from the charity shop, well happy! "Catch!" 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
