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Blitzer Beetle Cogging

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Hello wonderful people, I have been lurking and reading/learning/envying a while but now I need help lol

The Mrs and I got each other blitzer beetles for xmas (woop) and I was intending on putting a brushless set up in mine.

I went for one of these, as it was in my toolbox for some reason http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41130__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html

Got it set up and with a two cell lipo, however I'm getting serious cogging and the power seems somewhat delayed.

Its set up with a 13t steel pinion (recommended lots on here thank you)

Any suggestions on getting the cogging sorted? Might be worth noting that if i hold the car off ground it doesn't cog but the power delivery still seems off somehow.

Thanks!

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Hi 4000KV is kind of high RPM for the blitzer beetle in my opinion, But I am guessing it may be your battery causing the cogging is it old what brand is it what size and C rating?

Try reprograming the ESC and if it has a timing setting set it at 0 and it will have more power for start up.

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Hi, I have just been looking at different set ups and agree 4000kv is looking a little high (I bought it ages ago coming from micro stuff where 4000kv is on the lower end i guess)

New zippy 7.4v 4000mah and either 25-35c not entirely sure off the top of my head

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I tried to runa 17T brushed motor in mine with NiMH batteries, I got lots of stuttering on full throttle starts and even when up and running using a 3300mAh battery, swapped to a different band and higher capacity 5000mAh one and never had an issue again. Purely down to the ability of the battery to deliver the required power.

Suspect you need higher capacity/discharge rate lipos.

You will get some slight stuttering on initial take off with a non sensored brushless system, due to the feedback loop to the ESC.

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I run a 3800kv on 2 & 3s in an 11 pound truck without issue, I doubt a 4000kv would have a problem pushing a Blitzer Beetle. Something seems strange. It's not miscalibrated or anything is it? Does the motor run smoothly if its out of the car? I'd be keen to see what the specs are of your esc and batteries are. That thing should just fly with that motor in it

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I run my Blitzer Beetle with an EZRun system which is 4300kv iirc.

On a 2S Lipo it runs fine, I ran into a similar issue when I had the ESC calibrated to detect low voltage, if I applied full throttle it kicked in the protection and slowed the car down.

I turned off the low voltage protection and use a 3rd party voltage monitor plugged in to the balance lead and it is fine now.

They are great to drive with a nippy brushless system.

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You say you bought it ages ago ...I am thinking the rotor may have gone bad lost it's magnetic force? does it POP when you turn the motor shaft by hand?

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Try a second battery first. If that doesn't fix it, slightly crush the female connectors from the ESC to the motor and plug them back together, this ensuring that there's a really good connection there. I have had several systems where this connection has caused the back EMF to the ESC to be weakened to the point the feedback doesn't work. Once the thing is moving the EMF is a lot higher so the issue goes away.

I just bin the connectors now and direct solder my ESC to my motor on every car. Way more reliable, especially on sensorless systems.

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You could also try eliminating connectors between you motor and esc. I.e. Hard wiring it. The connectors could be breaking down a bit. How long are the wires between the motor and esc?

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cogging in a brushless motor is usually caused by the timing of the motor compared to timing of the esc and rotation of the motor.

if you can set the esc to spin the motor in reverse do so, see if you still get cogging, most likely you'll need to reverse the throttle channel on the radio.

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These combos have the punch quite low as standard, if you can get the program card you can make it better and more user friendly, but the power still 'ramps up' and they don't feel as linear as your average brushless system.

They are still a great combo for the money, (I have four of them) but I personally couldn't imagine it without the card, there is limited info on how to use them with the setup button and counting the leds gets tiresome.

I would certainly use this combo with a 13t pinion in a blitzer. Go for gold.

:Edit: and I have one in a Wild one on 3s and it cogs quite badly at low rpm, but once it is going about walking pace it disappears :)

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Thanks for all your input, gushing down with rain at the moment but ill work through all your advise soon and let you know :)

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Well.. I tried with a 3 cell 50c rated lipo, it still cogged a little and then smoke abruptly came out of the motor! Binned the motor and esc as I see no point risking using either (both smelt rather unpleasant after) maybe worth noting that before the motor did feel off somehow, kinda sludgey when turning it by hand out of the car.

 

I think for now I'm going to stick with the stock silver can or maybe upgrade to a sport tuned motor, I think that would be better for our uses for now as just a couple of fun cars for me, the mrs and nephew to poot around the garden/parks with. I got a bit sucked into wanting it to go faster and further away from why we bought them oops :P

Acceleration being more important than top end and raw power at the moment. Does the sport tuned accelerate quicker than silver can or is it just more top speed? 

I think ill likely build something else in the future for the speed fix.. any suggestions for a some what more modern/adjustable stadium truck with similar wheelbase (I love the short wheelbase look of the blitzers, and have a stadium blitzer/rocksockker shell on the way)

 

Thanks again!

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adjustable how?

as in setup? or re-gearing? re-powering?

the "kinda sludgey" feeling you got may not have been a fault/problem, different motors will feel different.

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Thought I would mention it as it felt different to rotating the smaller brushless motors from my old rc18t and mini lst, and the larger one in my truggy.

 

Pretty much something tough, similar wheelbase/track. Easy to fit blitzer wheels on. Sturdy shock towers! and some upgrade potential in both performance and some aluminium. Its still something to bash rather than race. Ill probably end up going with a sensored set up for it. Nothing too mad though! 

I have been looking at DT02's. Looks like a somewhat more modern take on the blitzer style chassis.

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dt-03t aqroshot, same wheels as the blitzers, just road tyres in the kit, will take most of the dt-03 hopups, just not the arms and links, least as far as I've seen, not sure on the gear box tho, haven't got one of them yet, so am yet to find out.

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