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Ampro tamiya cw01 upgrades

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1 hour ago, jupitertwo said:

Nice one, very tempted with these! I'll start looking in to some turnbuckles :)

Thank you. The upper links for the top were 48mm but that has to do with the type of ball cup you use. I would say get some no shorter than 50mm so you can cut them down. 

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Received mine yesterday too and cant wait to install them! As far as I can see these parts will make the CRP front end redundant as this is easier to install, requires no additional special hardware and places the shocks in a much better position - thank you pintopower!! :D

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8 hours ago, skip665 said:

Received mine yesterday too and cant wait to install them! As far as I can see these parts will make the CRP front end redundant as this is easier to install, requires no additional special hardware and places the shocks in a much better position - thank you pintopower!! :D

How are you guys getting them so fast! It takes me 2-3 weeks! You are going to have more run time in yours than I will on mine!

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9 minutes ago, Pintopower said:

How are you guys getting them so fast! It takes me 2-3 weeks! You are going to have more run time in yours than I will on mine!

6 days from order placement to arriving at my house via UPS - that was from Holland too!  When I ordered it the lead time was 7th June!

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12 minutes ago, skip665 said:

6 days from order placement to arriving at my house via UPS - that was from Holland too!  When I ordered it the lead time was 7th June!

Wow, that's great! I know when I started using shapeways it took 6 weeks I the time (and cost actually) is decreasing. Still, the technology is amazing. 

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Hello.
I bought the CW01 0mm offset arms.
Could you tell me the upper arm ball to ball length?
Thank you.
 

 

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How strong is those 3d printed plastics ?   (ampro double wishbone kit)

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On June 29, 2016 at 10:20 PM, gpgp01 said:

Hello.
I bought the CW01 0mm offset arms.
Could you tell me the upper arm ball to ball length?
Thank you.
 

 

Sorry! I have been so busy I have not checked this out lately! The upper arm length, ball to ball is ---reaches for lunchbox---- 62.75mm but that is at 1deg negative camber. It is in that ball park. If you have any questions, shoot me an email. Again sorry for the delay:

amproengineering@gmail.com

On July 4, 2016 at 1:46 PM, Vrooom666 said:

How strong is those 3d printed plastics ?   (ampro double wishbone kit)

The nylon used is very, very durable. I have beaten the heck out of my test mule SuperFly and the car has never broken. Now the LB is a bigger car with more unsprung weight and tires sticking out waiting to be whacked off by a stray tree. I am going to be conservative and tell you that they are not as strong as the stock arms but they are much more flexible and robust than most can even believe. I hope this helps. 

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Will these work on the LB? I got one with the CPR kit and that one works well.
 I am not really fond of the U brackets on the lower arms.

If yes could you also offer the central pivot part as a single order bit

625x465_13695240_1695261_1459359821.jpg

 

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5 hours ago, waterbok said:

Will these work on the LB? I got one with the CPR kit and that one works well.
 I am not really fond of the U brackets on the lower arms.

If yes could you also offer the central pivot part as a single order bit

625x465_13695240_1695261_1459359821.jpg

 

Well Yes these will work but you will need to confirm that the diameter of the shock base is not overly large and will hit the upright. With out knowing your shock I don't know. These will also have more front offset so the front wheels will stick out a bit but that will also aid in handling and soaking up jumps. The geometry is slightly different but honestly it should still work. I just tried to seperate the Hornet and CW01 front ends as much as possible since they are such different applications. I can make the central pivot a separate  part which I should have done in the first place. 

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Standard Tamiya shocks with long ends I guess, if the pivot point is in the same line as the U bracket that should be about ok.

(Just got a Hornet too, so if it doesnt work on the LB ;))

edit: if the pivot point of the shock moves down but in the same outward position the shock should move a bit away from the upright, right?

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Next Q, how are the light insert coming along?

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These parts look great, I love how you designed the angle of the shock to be more "natural" than the Team CRP, FX10 units. I'm a little confused about the difference between the zero offset and the 8mm, also what type of screw are you using to connect the upright to the arm? Any chance you'll make FORD emblems for the Pumpkin body?

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14 hours ago, waterbok said:

Standard Tamiya shocks with long ends I guess, if the pivot point is in the same line as the U bracket that should be about ok.

(Just got a Hornet too, so if it doesnt work on the LB ;))

edit: if the pivot point of the shock moves down but in the same outward position the shock should move a bit away from the upright, right?

The pivot point is about the same as the 8mm offset front end, not the zero offset. It should would but I haven't tried it. The wide version is basically these with the hole filled. Let me know when you mock it up. 

14 hours ago, waterbok said:

Next Q, how are the light insert coming along?

Oh &$%@. I forgot about those. They are all finished. I need to install them. Ill do those next, episode 6 here we come. 

2 hours ago, RushRebel said:

These parts look great, I love how you designed the angle of the shock to be more "natural" than the Team CRP, FX10 units. I'm a little confused about the difference between the zero offset and the 8mm, also what type of screw are you using to connect the upright to the arm? Any chance you'll make FORD emblems for the Pumpkin body?

Thank you for the kind words. The main difference is that the zero offset version barely fits a standard shock. It comes within half a millimeter of the upright under full extension. The wider version can fit a much larger variety of shocks and have more travel due to how the longer lever arm works. The upright can be installed using a 3mm roll pin or a Tamiya 3mm screw pin. I use those personally. Ill do a video on those after the lighting on the LB.

UHG! The stupid emblem. I forgot about that too. Yuppers. I have two versions. The stock one and the cursive one. I'm on it. BF front grille first. 

You guys should see the list I have.....

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On 7/12/2016 at 10:21 AM, Vrooom666 said:

Will you do them in gloss plastic ?      

Unfortunately the gloss plastic available is ridiculously hard. This means it breaks when you look at it. For now nothing is available that is cost effective. If you want gloss I recommend a few passes of gloss paint or gloss clear. It helps a lot. 

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I made a video of the Lunchbox and Midnight Pumpkin body mounts! Enjoy!

 

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Oh, I did not aware of that the 540 motor may hit the rear damper in spite of installing third damper mod.

I had thought that third damper mod was the most suitable way.

 

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9 hours ago, gpgp01 said:

Oh, I did not aware of that the 540 motor may hit the rear damper in spite of installing third damper mod.

I had thought that third damper mod was the most suitable way.

 

The third shock mod is a good one. In fact, on the Super Hornet it may be the only way but for the CW01, at least for me, it is sub optimal. Hitting the rear shock is not something I feel is good.

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On 5/19/2016 at 1:21 PM, jupitertwo said:

Nice one, very tempted with these! I'll start looking in to some turnbuckles :)

Thank you! 

Lighting update:

28350968642_f9815892bc_c.jpg

28172884820_554e317203_c.jpg

I know it looks like the body is glowing but that is just the camera. Front signals are in and I am waiting for V2 of the tail lights. 

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Finally, lighting is done! I just finished recording the video and I'll edit and publish tomorrow night. Here are some images:

28556849650_a597bc8af0_c.jpg

28765021311_d2f68a5c1d_c.jpg

28556846860_41a8da1ac3_c.jpg

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One of the main rear lights doesn't have the hole for the square insert or is that optional?

edit: I think SW is still on V1

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