Hotshot Build

[RushRebel]

Finally got around to building the Hotshot I got for Christmas. As I've mentioned in the past, the build is the most enjoyable part to me. I might go a little overboard with the organization, but it really pays off in the end, not having to crawl on the floor, searching for screws and washers.

My first impression is Tamiya really went above and beyond with this rerelease... it's got the newer brushless esc and quite a few extra parts. It may be sometime before I  get to update this build; being the only newsguy at a small radio station keeps me on-call 24/7. So far the build has been enjoyable, my only complaint is the minuscule tube of ceramic grease to handle the number of gears and suspension parts. Even if I could work on this everyday, I'd have to wait for a new tube to arrive in the mail.

Went ahead and added a bearing kit for the build.

The nights accomplishment. I was very conservative with grease in the gearbox, so it might be worth going back and redoing once the new tube arrives....Please disregard the adult beverage in the background.

[Grastens]

Keep in mind that the grease should only be a thin coat on the gear teeth - globs of it will just create more drag in the gearbox without additional lubrication benefits, so that tube should be plenty for the build

Looking forward to seeing the build unfold!

[RushRebel]

1 hour ago, Grastens said:

Keep in mind that the grease should only be a thin coat on the gear teeth - globs of it will just create more drag in the gearbox without additional lubrication benefits, so that tube should be plenty for the build

Looking forward to seeing the build unfold!

Just put a dab here and there. Once the gears move around some more, I'll check to make sure it's distributed evenly. If nothing else, the new tube will be used for suspension and axle lube. 

[Darat76]

the way I have always done gear greasing is put multiple small blobs in the center of the teeth spaced around the gear, then sat the gear in it's spot, and turn the gears until it's evenly coated across all the contact gears, adding more if needed, also remember, if your using bearings you don't need to grease any of the shafts.

[berman]

You wouldn't use even half of the tube of grease if the correct amount is applied, and thats with the nylon bushings. 

Also remember any grease used on the suspension and ancilleries will collect dirt and debris accelerating wear, so be mindful about what and where you grease, and what to clean afterwards.

[RushRebel]

18 hours ago, berman said:

You wouldn't use even half of the tube of grease if the correct amount is applied, and thats with the nylon bushings. 

Also remember any grease used on the suspension and ancilleries will collect dirt and debris accelerating wear, so be mindful about what and where you grease, and what to clean afterwards.

Honestly, I just put a dab here and there, like four little blobs per diff gear. I remember from my younger days how easy it was to gunk up a gearbox. Thanks for the advice on greasing the other parts. It's been a long time since I built a car for the purpose of running and this Hotshot will be driven on Pensacola Beach. Anybody familiar with the Florida Gulf, knows the sand is fine like sugar. Probably not the safest place to drive, but if it breaks, I get to tear down and fix it.

[MadInventor]

It might be worth mentioning that I still put a very fine film of grease on the gear shafts, even if using bearings. If moisture ever penetrates the gearbox (especially salt water) and the bearing / shaft rusts, you will have a very difficult job removing the bearings from the shafts. Worth doing as an anti corrosion measure rather than a friction inhibiter imo.

 

[Darat76]

2 hours ago, MadInventor said:

It might be worth mentioning that I still put a very fine film of grease on the gear shafts, even if using bearings. If moisture ever penetrates the gearbox (especially salt water) and the bearing / shaft rusts, you will have a very difficult job removing the bearings from the shafts. Worth doing as an anti corrosion measure rather than a friction inhibiter imo.

 

This is true, I don't run my cars near the beach, more hassle than its worth for me, and the closest my cars get to water is the damp grass in my yard, my race ones however.... That's a different story... 

[RushRebel]

Actually had some free time and got this accomplished tonight. I must say that this is one of the most enjoyable builds! It's easy to forget how enjoyable (and calming) these kits can be. I'm thinking about selling my partially built RC10 rere and getting another Tamiya.

[RushRebel]

So, a few spare hours, and this happened. Loving this build!

[RushRebel]

A few more hours of free time to build. Slow and steady wins the race 

Yeah, they're 30-year old designs, but these are some of the easiest oil shock I've ever built... anxious to see how they hold up.

[RushRebel]

Does anybody have the parts I' number for the Super Hotshot under tray? One of the few mods I'd like to make before running this beauty.

[Snappy1]

TP 30....for the underguard

[RushRebel]

8 hours ago, Snappy1 said:

TP 30....for the underguard

Thanks!

 

[RushRebel]

After a two week delay, I finally got time to work on the Hotshot build. It's nearly finished, all that's left to do is paint. Still trying to decide on a color.

I don't want to sound like a broken record, but this has been such an enjoyable build! I've actually put my partial built RC10 Classic up for sale to raise money for my dream build... A Bruiser. Thanks for looking!

[Saito2]

Looking good. It's such a great build. I've done 2 over the years plus a Super Hot Shot. Honestly, a Hot Shot is probably in my top 3 favorite builds. After adding the underguard and yellow CVA shocks to my oldest one, I decided to rebody it in a different color for once and went with Tamiya Metallic Blue. I went through members' cars in the reference section for inspiration. If you enjoy the build process, a Bruiser won't disappoint.

[Saito2]

.

[RushRebel]

12 hours ago, Saito2 said:

After adding the underguard

Thank you for the kind words!

Hmmm... do you have any pics of the underguard and the points where it attaches? I have two upgrades planned, possibly three, and that's the main one. The others are purely for looks; a better screen for the canopy and gold wheels. 

To show how long it's been since I've built, while installing the electronics, I thought something was wrong because the antenna was missing. Didn't realize these new-fangled digital units don't have them.

[Saito2]

Ha! I know what you mean. All my radio gear is old AM stuff with antennas. I recently bought a lightly used Bullhead re-re with new style radio-gear in it and I was looking all over for the antenna. I don't have any underguard pics handy but installing one is a breeze. The front of the guard shares the two back front bumper screws. The rear of the guard ties into the rollcage at the back. If you look at the Super Hot Shot manual available on Tamiya USA's website, it shows you exactly how it mounts.

[RushRebel]

Saito2: I don't know what I'm gonna do when it comes to running this thing. I've always been more a fan of the build and the last time I actually drove an r/c, there were no NIMH or LiPO batteries, just NICads that ran out of juice in about 5 minutes. 

[HunterZero]

No shame in displaying a newly built Hot Shot on the shelf, that's where one of mine is.

If you want to run it, just get a new NiMH battery and charger. They are cheap, easy to care for, and battery capacities today are three to four times the old 1200mAh racing packs.

- J

[Saito2]

I totally agree. I still run what NiCads I have left and NiMHs. Not yet made the jump to Lipo.