lucasan 28 Posted March 22, 2017 Thanks for that Mokei! Yes, it ended up being the wrong nut so USER ERROR. Double checked the shock tower placement and I'm good. Now I'm wondering about tackling the wheelbase issue I've been reading about. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
christam 205 Posted March 23, 2017 On 18/03/2017 at 1:45 PM, salvine said: I used a tutorial on this site. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=129718 Yeah saw that. Although new arms are fairly cheap, I don't have the CVA shock parts...(spacers) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lucasan 28 Posted March 23, 2017 I am a little lost when it comes to the parts he used for that tutorial. I wish he had laid them all out so we can see what to look for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njmlondon 570 Posted March 23, 2017 On 21/03/2017 at 4:46 AM, Mokei Kagaku said: But whenever I have problems, I check very carefully for assembly errors, and so far, my own assembly errors have always been the root cause. Agree completely. It is a key reason I love Tamiya. I have built and restored loads of kits and every time something has not been quite right it has been 100% perfect instructions and 100% perfect fit and 100% user stupidity 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M 800STD 586 Posted March 23, 2017 @Shodog You do have the disc in correct rotational direction in the first pic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
salvine 125 Posted March 24, 2017 20 hours ago, christam said: Yeah saw that. Although new arms are fairly cheap, I don't have the CVA shock parts...(spacers) I don't recall what I used but just found some random bits it my collection to shim up the arms. If you want to dress it up I believe Tamiya sells several spacers in blue aluminum. I know I've seen them somewhere. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
christam 205 Posted March 25, 2017 On 24/03/2017 at 4:04 PM, salvine said: I don't recall what I used but just found some random bits it my collection to shim up the arms. If you want to dress it up I believe Tamiya sells several spacers in blue aluminum. I know I've seen them somewhere. I'll have a look in my box, must be something I can pass the U shaped shaft through. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SRB Bloke 237 Posted January 26, 2018 On 22/11/2016 at 3:58 AM, Shodog said: Okay made the adjustments. Better? Hello Shodog Hope you get to see this post, I've bought these alloy disc's and brakes for my TA02SW but the bearings washers etc don't seem to fit the Tamiya hubs.. Could you show whats behind the disc etc etc. PM me if its easier.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shodog 1835 Posted February 1, 2018 The rears fit with no issues. The front axles will need to be modified by turning down the 6mm collar to use a smaller 5mm bearing. The axles use a 6mm outboard bearing and the caliper bracket needs a 5mm. You could ditch the caliper bracket and just use the disc only up front if you don’t want to modify the axle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SRB Bloke 237 Posted February 1, 2018 Thanks Shodog... that makes sense. I’ll have to loose the calipers, I don’t have to ability to turn down those axles but I really appreciate your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Truck Norris 2237 Posted February 1, 2018 Are you going to run the car? I had the same problem with the TA-03 206 WRC and replaced the bearing with a bushing made of styrene. If you want to run it I guess you could make it out of metal instead. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinb120 64 Posted February 17, 2018 Should try to see if AMPRO would take the Pepsi challenge on making a corrected set of lower arms for this kit. I messaged them to see what may happen with the link to the 'fix' here. It's also a shame Tamiya never capitalizes on models like this making more full body sets so the aftermarket can make more livery variations. The 934 was such an iconic car and used so extensively there is so much that can be done with it. They could do white plastics and generic body decals to not infringe on the Jager 'limited' status. Also, a 'big wing'(935 wing often fitted to the 934) kit would be nice. I'd buy more then a few body sets. Since 'parts' versions of body sets are so scarce for their models, nobody takes the initiative with them, unlike the static 1/24 and 1/12 kits they make dozens of decal sets for. I have 8 exoto versions of the diecast 934, which each cost far more then one of these R/C kits. I'd surely find a way to spend more money on R/C versions. One of the few race cars run in hundreds of liveries with hardly a single change to the core body. A lot left on the table with this one. Half the reason I've spent thousands of dollars on exoto 934/935 models long before the reres started is from the subliminal exposure I had to them from Tamiya kits from my youth in the 70/80's. No surprise my diecast collection has numerous Vaillant/Jager/Martini/NewMan/Rothmans Porsches and Walter Wolf Countachs in it. But if you have to scrounge to find the inevitable few rare produced spare body kits with plastics at ridiculous gouged reseller prices, nobody is going to make more decal versions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinb120 64 Posted March 9, 2018 Well I contacted Alberto at Ampro about the wheelbase issues and linked him to the tutorial here on tc. He does have access to one of these and is going to try to create correct upper/lower arms to fix it. We shall see what happens. I may in the meantime try the front adjustment first and see how it looks only 3mm off before doing both sets. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinb120 64 Posted March 20, 2018 Well, I did my 230mm 'conversion', before fitting any body components. When I aligned the front wheel perfectly in the arch, it turns out 230mm was too SHORT a wheelbase. I went back and removed the modifications to the rear arms and it now sits perfectly centered front and rear. I did move the body about 2mm forward of the factory dimples to get the best overall balance. So another option is just to modify the front arms only and carefully align the shell. I'll upload pics in the Jager 934 thread. Just ordered another set of new rear arms Pic facing left is 230mm, both front and rear control arms modified, front wheels dead centered. Pic facing RIGHT, is 233MM, front arms modified, rear arms stock, body centered on front wheels(about 2mm ahead of the factory location points). Another thing making me nuts is the front ride height, perfect would be just between the first and second holes. 230 MM, front wheels centered in the arches(may have been turned a tiny bit right in the pic, 233 photo wheels are confirmed straight) 233MM front arms only(wheels straight in this pic) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewthunda 5 Posted April 29, 2018 Just finished this. Great kit! My first Tamiya since my original Superchamp 30 years ago. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shodog 1835 Posted December 8, 2019 Reviving this killer thread. It’s been a few years so let’s see those 934 builds Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtbkym01 4008 Posted December 8, 2019 Mine (the one I’m gonna build) is till in kit form. Maybe it’s next on my project list (after I fully finish the RR, and the TA06). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Truck Norris 2237 Posted December 8, 2019 I built the body then laid out all the parts for this shot: I then used the body and stickers for my 49400 chassis: The chassis was used for this: 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3750 Posted December 8, 2019 Oooohhh - left hand drive wiper blades!!! Did you 3d print them or are they from another kit? Its amazing how such a small detail like that really makes it come alive, especially with the hidden body posts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Truck Norris 2237 Posted December 8, 2019 The ones on the 934 are from the Alfa 155 (trimmed a little) which is centrally fitted so neither LHD or RHD orientated. The 911 GT2 one is from the Lancia 037 which is also not moulded to be specifically directional. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites