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Jason1145

Sensored Brushless Motors with wires pre-soldered?

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After a quick search on Google and scanning Ebay I can't find many sensored motors that come with the motor wires pre-soldered, do you guys know of any brands that have them ready to go?

LRP Vector K7 sensored motors come with Tamiya bullet plugs but are a bit pricey for me at $70, anything cheaper?

I'm looking for 13.5t motors.

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Why do you need a motor that has wires pre-soldered on??

Don't you have a soldering iron?

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Agreed with backlash. Soldering wires to a motor isn't too difficult, and if you buy them at a hobby shop, bring your car and I'm sure the good people there will give you a neat wiring job. If you have a track nearby, one of the people there will surely help you out in exchange for some friendly banter and a cup of coffee. (I should know, I've worked on far more cars than I've ever owned....)

Maybe one of the members here is close by and willing to give you a hand? Were are you from?

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Thanks for the suggestions and questions, I just don't like soldering, maybe as I'm not too experienced with it like you guys that's all. I honestly don't have time to practice this part of the hobby, so if I can buy it ready done that's better for me.

my LHS is difficult to get to so not really an option either, I live in London. I did once get a LHS to solder for me but I had to leave it n collect it 3 days later they were so busy.

ive not looked into tracks and racing these Tamiya's yet it's just for light use for now but it's something I'll try and look into as it looks a right laugh with all like minded people to mix with, you sound a gent Gooneybird!

Eyco80 that's a great find thank you I will save that for later :)

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I'm going to go against the grain here and suggest getting a cheap soldering kit from radio shack or something similar. They start out pretty cheap. Watch a how-to video on Youtube and you'll be good to go. It's a skill that can be of benefit to you in the future.

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The Speed Passion Reventon combos from Modelsport come with pre-soldered connectors.

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Jason, if you are enjoying this hobby, then it is a must that you get a soldering iron. After a little practice (Kingfisher is spot on about watching a couple YT videos) you'll become very comfortable. I will throw my 2 cents in and say DON'T go for a cheapie iron. Buy something like this, it's cheap but better than a pencil only ebay 30w special.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_US_Warehouse_.html

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cheers guys but I actually have a soldering iron and have watched YouTube vids and yep I have even soldered bullet connectors onto a motor before... They came out at all angles to each other lol and it put me off for life! 

Granted I shouldn't give up and maybe I should stick with it...I hear practice makes perfect :)

my iron is a cheap one though so maybe that hindered my attempt, thanks for your both suggestions. Any in the UK available to buy?

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You don't learn if you don't make mistakes. Nobody is ever good at anything the first time they do it. Got any broken electronics lying around that you plan to throw out? An old radio or kitchen appliance? Get a bit of wire, open up the broken electronics, and practice. You can make all of the mistakes you want, try different approaches, and see what works best for you before moving on to important items. 

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From all the soldering tutorials I've seen so far, this is the best one for the R/C hobbyist. You really need one strong 80W iron handy for thick leads and connectors, anything with less power will give you trouble, as I've experienced it by myself. Even if your 80W iron is a simple one that goes straight into the power outlet instead of being attached to a soldering station, this is better than having a tiny 40 W station. This is a time that tools can make or break your job - without them, even the one with the best soldering practice can't do a clean joint.

 

If you're heading into general electronics, this is a 3-part series about tools, soldering techniques, and SMD soldering:

As soon as you're dealing with electronics, a temperature controlled station is very useful, since you can adjust the temperature higher (for RoHS compliant lead-free solder found on anything presoldered today) or lower (for the good old Sn60Pb40 solder or its derivatives, which is my favourite). A decent 60-80 W station will cost you around 100 - 150 € (Hakko FX-888D, Ersa RDS 80) depending on where you live. Don't be a penny pincher like me who thought a 80 € Weller WHS-40 (40 W) could cut it, since it doesn't. Some day, I'll get my hands on a Weller WS 81 (80 W), but this is in a whole other price range around 250 €.
If you buy a station anyway, try avoiding Hakko clones and other cheapies that flood ebay, their atrocious build quality isn't worth the trouble.

About tips, well, I only use chisel tips in different sizes so far. A good iron from Hakko, Weller and Ersa will allow you to purchase and use a wide variety of tip types and sizes. With the off-brand ones, there's often no aftersales support regarding changing or even replacing tips.

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4 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

cheers guys but I actually have a soldering iron and have watched YouTube vids and yep I have even soldered bullet connectors onto a motor before... They came out at all angles to each other lol and it put me off for life! 

Granted I shouldn't give up and maybe I should stick with it...I hear practice makes perfect :)

my iron is a cheap one though so maybe that hindered my attempt, thanks for your both suggestions. Any in the UK available to buy?

Personally I don't like the small pointy tip solidering irons, I don't think they get enough heat into the item you are trying to solider. I use a gas iron with a 4mm wide flat tip for most things from 16g to 10g wire and never have an issue.

have you looked on eBay or maybe Maplins for an item called "helping hands", it's a clamp that will hold the wire and connector whilst you solider it, they really help with getting wires at the correct angle.

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You DO NOT need an expensive soldering station to be able to solder well..

A simple 40Watt iron with a flat chisel type tip will allow you to do pretty much everything in this hobby except assemble battery packs and maybe repair ESC's.. Buy a quality iron if you can afford it, and it will last you for years.. Weller is a good brand, as is Scope and even Nicholson... Then practice, practice, practice...

If you don't like burning your fingers when soldering connectors, buy yourself a set of helping hands like this..
 

TH1987ImageMain-515Wx515H.jpg

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Ahhhh tinning!! Great video!

Looking back I guess I never knew how to use solder properly... I'm sure last time I just lined up my two ends to be soldered, held as close as possible while touching them together and then tried to heat the solder on them and kept pushing more solder on making a gunky mess from too much solder!

 

so tin both ends individually, then tin the iron tip too... Then hold them all together and apply heat and push them together ( with an extra thing like a metal tool etc..) looks so easy! 

I really though I would need to be pushing the solder on as I would go!

I Just ordered a helping hand too... Thanks a lot guys, I will dig out my soldering iron and try identify its power output and if it's clean to use. Great idea on the broken electrics to test on too.

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Helping hands are great. once you have tinned the wires set the hands up so the ends of the wires are pushed together, side by side rather than end to end (if that makes sense), heat both wires together and allow the solder from both wire to flow together, that where the wide 4mm tip comes in handy :). if needed add a little bit more solder.

 

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2 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

 

I really though I would need to be pushing the solder on as I would go!

That technique only works for braze welding. :)

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14 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

That technique only works for braze welding. :)

When you tin the ends of the a piece of wire, or connectors you will need to feed extra solder in.. ;)

The biggest, and most common mistake that I see made when soldering with an iron is that people either use a soldering iron that is too small (both tip and wattage) for the job. and/or they don't give it sufficient time to fully heat up before trying to solder with it..

Other mistakes are using the wrong type of solder, not cleaning the surfaces to be soldered (if required), and simply poor technique..

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I've soldered millions of things in my working life, from replacing ICs and other tiny components on the circuit boards of photographic equipment, to large

heavy-duty and mouldy looking wiring systems of vintage and classic full size cars.

The list of hints and tips can be extensive and confusing at times. So if I had to pick one single thing that made the most difference it would be to

make sure that the tip of your iron is physically considerably bigger than the thing you are trying to solder. Otherwise what happens is the heat is

drawn away from the iron too quickly so you end up with what we used to call in the trade, a warm tuppence.

The bigger the size difference, the faster the area to be soldered will get hot enough to melt the solder, and the less risk you have of heating up everything

in the immediate area possibly causing damge to other components, or at the very least melting all the insulation from the wire.

Obviously there are times when there are limits to how big you can go with tip-size if space is restricted, but that's not often a problem.

The wattage really just determines how long you need to wait for the iron to get up to temperature, not how quickly you can heat up what you are trying to solder.

 

The best soldering iron I've ever used was a huge piece of very heavy metal shaped like the tip of a spear. We would heat up the tip with an oxy-acetylene torch,

or gas-axe as it was affectionately known, until the tip glowed bright orange. It would stay hot enough to effortlessly solder car wiring for quite some time.

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On 8/18/2016 at 6:19 AM, Backlash said:

You DO NOT need an expensive soldering station to be able to solder well..

A simple 40Watt iron with a flat chisel type tip will allow you to do pretty much everything in this hobby except assemble battery packs and maybe repair ESC's.. Buy a quality iron if you can afford it, and it will last you for years.. Weller is a good brand, as is Scope and even Nicholson... Then practice, practice, practice...

If you don't like burning your fingers when soldering connectors, buy yourself a set of helping hands like this..
 

TH1987ImageMain-515Wx515H.jpg

I bought one of these recently, it helps a lot.   I don't like soldering deans connectors especially.  No physical connection... all tinning.  But i like the plug style.

As stated above, Speed Passion come pre-soldiered and are reasonable in cost.  I have 4 SP motors because of this!!!

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34 minutes ago, firefoxussr said:

I bought one of these recently, it helps a lot.   I don't like soldering deans connectors especially.  No physical connection... all tinning.  But i like the plug style.

I have a station similar to that but the clamps wouldn't tighten fully and kept falling off.  I hated it.  Maybe I just went too cheap, it was an Amazon suggested special.  <_<  I then got one of these "Mr Handy" soldering jigs:

ALJIG002_04.jpg

 

You can't easily tell in that above image but there are holes cut into the boards for bullet and deans connectors as well.  This has made my soldering jobs a lot easier!

I dislike Dean's connectors for that exact same reason.  Castle Connectors or XT60 are the way to go IMHO.  I have so much with Deans now that it would cost a bunch and take forever to change over!

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23 minutes ago, Effigy3 said:

I dislike Dean's connectors for that exact same reason.  Castle Connectors or XT60 are the way to go IMHO.  I have so much with Deans now that it would cost a bunch and take forever to change over!

I have some of the Star Plugs, but haven't converted anything. http://www.rcstarplug.com/

This may be an even better option. http://r.ebay.com/9S32SJ 

Why on earth doesn't someone make a deans/T plug with a crimp on the wire side?  

Look what i found just now: http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-5.html#2818  I'm ordering. :D

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7 minutes ago, firefoxussr said:

I have some of the Star Plugs, but haven't converted anything. http://www.rcstarplug.com/

This may be an even better option. http://r.ebay.com/9S32SJ 

Why on earth doesn't someone make a deans/T plug with a crimp on the wire side?  

I have a good amount of those too.  They're bulkier than Deans but are compatible so that's nice.  They do have a larger connection so they're easier to grab a hold of but I've found that the plastic "wire shield" that snaps into place on the Star plug lead likes to come off.  I've also had at least one crack to that it falls off.  I have it Jerry rigged on using electrical tape.  I'm considering moving to banana plugs for my TRF 201 racer.  But those aren't a good choice for a basher.

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9 minutes ago, Effigy3 said:

I have a good amount of those too.  They're bulkier than Deans but are compatible so that's nice.  They do have a larger connection so they're easier to grab a hold of but I've found that the plastic "wire shield" that snaps into place on the Star plug lead likes to come off.  I've also had at least one crack to that it falls off.  I have it Jerry rigged on using electrical tape.  I'm considering moving to banana plugs for my TRF 201 racer.  But those aren't a good choice for a basher.

The Star Plugs didn't really satisfy my qualms with deans.  

I'm going straight deans with the Maxx Products coupler.  Finally something that makes sense.

2818.jpg

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