Blackfoot 2016 - CV and Driveline Issues - HELP!

[mheald 359]

Hey chaps. Yeah I was plauged with issues with these CV's from day 1 and ended up swapping them out for my re-re Brats back end. That worked a treat and it hasnt missed a beat yet. Why on earth Tamiya are supplying these parts instead of the brat parts I have no idea...wait...I do have an idea! They do because they know gullable fools like us will buy the kits AND the replacement parts

Regarding my side plates mod, yes, I still have about 5 sets left I think, 3 of which belong to people who've PM'd me and I've not replied yet (sorry if that's you). I've been busy with work this past few weeks working from 9am to 2am...6 days a week!

Anyway yeah, good luck with the fix, just bin those god awful CV's and buy the brat parts. Instafix.

[Frog Jumper 4459]

Here is a BF on EBAYs that has ball-ends and rods to help with the rear-end spread:

http://r.ebay.com/33pwvr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-RC-Truggy-Truck-Futaba-Car-/232062960711?hash=item360807c447:g:fjEAAOSwaB5Xwt1b

Terry

 

[RichiPuppy 42]

I didn't recall seeing this problem when building the kit and upon rechecking my dog bones there is no way mine would pop out like that without really reefing on the control arm.  Is there some sort of difference in tolerances of parts or are the control arms getting bent some how or what is the deal here?

[DAV 150N 2]

Hi all, old thread but hopefully someone can help. Did not want to duplicate.

Just joined up today and have exactly the same problem, same side, literally could be pics of my sons re-re Blackfoot he got for Christmas. On chassis test drive it popped out, run twice more, but not run for more than 2 mins without popping out. 3 days building/thinking/rebuilding/thinking/building, less than 5 mins driving, very disappointed son. Never had a problem like this. 

So far have rebuilt gearbox a couple of times in case it was sticking and causing it to pop out. Looked at suspension it's just under 90mm at full length, but just under 80mm on original, so rebuilt original style suspension with G Parts tree that comes with the re re to reduce the angle, which is better when back at just under 80mm,  but turned the wheels by hand and still pops straight out. Did not bother running it....  Rusty Tamiya knowledge spent....

So....is it P plates and Brat dog bones and axels I need? How do I get the right parts now? When i last needed to do this it was 1980 something and you went into the shop and spoke to an 'oracle' who ordered your parts, told you if he thought you were wrong, and phoned you a few weeks later when they arrived in the shop. 

Appreciate any help!

Adam

 

 

[DAV 150N 2]

Ok, should I start a new Tamiya Blackfoot 2016 re-release problem page?

[khyzersoze 269]

13 minutes ago, DAV 150N said:

Ok, should I start a new Tamiya Blackfoot 2016 re-release problem page.

Going to have a sad face after school again tomorrow.,,,, more than a week now waiting to enjoy his Christmas present and he did not sleep the week before. I definitely remember the build up, but I never endured a delay...

Don't know if you saw this thread, but you may want to check it out.

 

 

[DAV 150N 2]

Thanks  khyzersoze. Hadn't seen that will check it out.

 

[zakspeed 207]

There are 2 things to mention here, if you notice the diff and drive cups do not sit central in the gearbox. That's why it always happens on one side. I've never tried it but could you space the drive cups out there's enough spline and would only need a small amount. Regards the P plates I personally don't see this is the problem provided all 3 screws in. And you want a little flex.  

 

[jupitertwo 1485]

I had issues with this on my Monster Beetle. It was the P plates not being in correctly. After sorting that, it all ran smoothly again.

[DAV 150N 2]

Thanks Jupitertwo, I'll check that again too!

[DAV 150N 2]

Thanks zakspeed. I was wondering about spacing the drive ups with something but I was not sure if this would compromise the gearbox. I had not noticed/realised it was not central. Hopefully a combination of everyone's ideas will make the marginal difference I think is needed..

[chazekxt 7]

its because the rear springs are to stiff I had same issue on mb I put softer rear springs on rear issues fixed

[Static Age 66]

The dog bones don't like being at too much of an angle. Stiff or too long rear shocks cause this. Also the dog bones are a little short, you can put a washer behind the drive cup on the gearbox side or wheel axle side to help this a bit.

[Gen_Atrain 8]

I made a quick video showing the issue I was having with the stock CVD axles on my Re-Re MB.

MIP Super Ball Differential 

AmPro ORV double wishbone rear suspension 

Thorp counter gear

Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor

On the right side of the vehicle you will find a Thorp dogbone and Thorp axle drive.

On the left side of the vehicle you will find the stock Tamiya CVD axle.

NOTE: Both inward ball bearings are installed but not the outboard bearings.

 

https://youtu.be/nyp3U4QPZHk

Tamiya CVD issues regarding NVH!

[Frog Jumper 4459]

1 hour ago, Gen_Atrain said:

I made a quick video showing the issue I was having with the stock CVD axles on my Re-Re MB.

MIP Super Ball Differential 

AmPro ORV double wishbone rear suspension 

Thorp counter gear

Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor

On the right side of the vehicle you will find a Thorp dogbone and Thorp axle drive.

On the left side of the vehicle you will find the stock Tamiya CVD axle.

NOTE: Both inward ball bearings are installed but not the outboard bearings.

 

https://youtu.be/nyp3U4QPZHk

Tamiya CVD issues regarding NVH!

 

Sorry about your problems...  Its nice to know that the MIP will work with the Thorp stuff...  I'm glad I've been holding onto the Thorp Dogbone stuff, just in case...

Terry

 

[Gen_Atrain 8]

@Frog Jumper

Well....the Thorp axles really aren't meant to work with the MIP diff cups. The MIP cup slots are wider than Thorp's design. The pin on the Tamiya CVD is double the size of the Thorp dogbone pin.

I mocked this up as a demonstrational purpose only. Running would surely wear things out quickly.

Plus on AmPro's suspension set up I lengthened the upper wishbone link to accommodate the longer Thorp axle. So the camber is exaggerated and it can't be driven like that.

Clear as mud?

 

Gen-Atrain

 

 

[Jason1145 4688]

On 8/22/2016 at 7:54 PM, Frog Jumper said:

I've noticed in the MB Re-Re manual that the right-side CVD needs (2) o-rings in the drive cup...  

Frankly, isn't the recommended Hop-Up for this issue to go with these:

 

Hi Terry @Frog Jumper

Bet you didn't expect to hear from me so soon with my Black feet!

This op's issue is what I ran into today after only 5 minutes and a couple kerb jumps the rear cvd popped out the diff cup on the motor side.... if you look at the op's first 3 photos that exactly my issue too.

Above you show some parts to stop the dog bone popping out, I think I know two of the parts but what's the 3rd ( gearbox  cups and are they needed?)

1) Frog dog bones 9808038

2) Frog Wheel axles 9808039

 

I am a bit frustrated this has happened after I resigned myself to mollycoddling this BF with (just) a silvercan motor in an attempt to avoid gearbox clicking, but to now have this other issue occur - hmmmm I'm not sure how much I want to invest into a slow turkey like this... although I did enjoy the 5minutes with it seeing it land the kerbs!

 

The cheapest fix fix for this is to limit the rear shock travel to stop the angle getting so high that it can let the dog bone out the cup... I can't even put o rings in as it's a CVD

Anyone else had recent fixes for this?

[graemevw 826]

17 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Hi Terry @Frog Jumper

Bet you didn't expect to hear from me so soon with my Black feet!

This op's issue is what I ran into today after only 5 minutes and a couple kerb jumps the rear cvd popped out the diff cup on the motor side.... if you look at the op's first 3 photos that exactly my issue too.

Above you show some parts to stop the dog bone popping out, I think I know two of the parts but what's the 3rd ( gearbox  cups and are they needed?)

1) Frog dog bones 9808038

2) Frog Wheel axles 9808039

 

I am a bit frustrated this has happened after I resigned myself to mollycoddling this BF with (just) a silvercan motor in an attempt to avoid gearbox clicking, but to now have this other issue occur - hmmmm I'm not sure how much I want to invest into a slow turkey like this... although I did enjoy the 5minutes with it seeing it land the kerbs!

 

The cheapest fix fix for this is to limit the rear shock travel to stop the angle getting so high that it can let the dog bone out the cup... I can't even put o rings in as it's a CVD

Anyone else had recent fixes for this?

I dont think you need the cup joints, without taking mine apart, they look the same.

I have all the brat/frog parts if you need them, however i have no issues with my blackfoot. It might be because i used the metal P plates though.

[Jason1145 4688]

36 minutes ago, graemevw said:

I dont think you need the cup joints, without taking mine apart, they look the same.

I have all the brat/frog parts if you need them, however i have no issues with my blackfoot. It might be because i used the metal P plates though.

Are the metal P plates available to buy on their own? Mine has plastic P plates and yes there is some give there which no doubt contributes to the whole movement issue down there.

Thanks for the offer of the bones and axles I might PM you if the shock shortening doesn't work out

Edit: I will check my 3 screws on that P plate as I think one of them may have been stripped already when I was tinkering with it on first inspection a few days ago... I didn't pay much attention but need to check that out as well. Looking at it I could lock it down with a machine screw and locknut through it if needed

[graemevw 826]

You should be able to get some of ebay, but yeah, check yours are fixed well and all the way on. Mine is close, but no chance of them ever popping out on mine unless something brakes. Its using stock shock set up too.

No problem on the parts, there just some new bits i seem to have kicking about. If you do want them just let me know. If not they will just stay in my spares box.

[Jason1145 4688]

The 1st of 3 screws on the P plate (the one closest to the CVD) was stripped and just spinning with no real pull.

I replaced it with a longer machine screw which actually bit a new thread pattern on its way through the plastic and pulled tight by itself so no need for a lock nut ( luckily as it needs some disassembled to access that inside area)

Then I pulled both rear shocks off, they measured 80mm eye to eye but not after I placed a 5mm tube over the shock shaft to shorten them and now they are only 75mm eye to eye.

Fitted these back on and I'm glad to say it has pulled that right sided CVD much further into the diff cup by a good 3-4 mm which now looks good,  let's see how it performs on the next run out.

[ThunderDragonCy 9088]

@Jason1145 75mm eye to eye you say? Big Bore front aeration dampers next then 😉

[Jason1145 4688]

1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

@Jason1145 75mm eye to eye you say? Big Bore front aeration dampers next then 😉

If you build it, they will come 

=

If you link them, I will get divorced

[ThunderDragonCy 9088]

@Jason1145 *cough* 54504 *cough*

[Jason1145 4688]

Cheers bud but that'd be divorce and murder lol, not in that order.