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jamescottam

Blackfoot 2016 - CV and Driveline Issues - HELP!

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I’m grateful I’m not having any of the drive train issues that others have had. I deliberately didn’t zip tie the rubber sleeves over the drive shafts thinking they were going to pop out but they haven’t. Other than one shim in the Diff and not having any packers slotted onto the Shocks (softest setting) it’s been fine. 

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yes it can be hit or miss with this CVD popping out, I'm sure the previous owner knew about this issue as it's impossible to drive without it happening, he must've just given up on it and sold it in lol but it's ok I hope I've solved it now 

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On 4/7/2019 at 2:36 PM, Jason1145 said:

Hi Terry @Frog Jumper

Bet you didn't expect to hear from me so soon with my Black feet!

This op's issue is what I ran into today after only 5 minutes and a couple kerb jumps the rear cvd popped out the diff cup on the motor side.... if you look at the op's first 3 photos that exactly my issue too.

Above you show some parts to stop the dog bone popping out, I think I know two of the parts but what's the 3rd ( gearbox  cups and are they needed?)

1) Frog dog bones 9808038

2) Frog Wheel axles 9808039

 

I am a bit frustrated this has happened after I resigned myself to mollycoddling this BF with (just) a silvercan motor in an attempt to avoid gearbox clicking, but to now have this other issue occur - hmmmm I'm not sure how much I want to invest into a slow turkey like this... although I did enjoy the 5minutes with it seeing it land the kerbs! ;)

 

The cheapest fix fix for this is to limit the rear shock travel to stop the angle getting so high that it can let the dog bone out the cup... I can't even put o rings in as it's a CVD :(

Anyone else had recent fixes for this?

I bought this 3 piece including cups on eBay as a set. In the process of building and rebuilding trying to fix originally I noticed one of the screws on the P plate was stripped. Larger screw has fixed that and with this set my son has been running for a year with no problems, even runs it with an 80s Gold endurance from my Celica with no problem (other than handling!).

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3 hours ago, DAV 150N said:

I bought this 3 piece including cups on eBay as a set. In the process of building and rebuilding trying to fix originally I noticed one of the screws on the P plate was stripped. Larger screw has fixed that and with this set my son has been running for a year with no problems, even runs it with an 80s Gold endurance from my Celica with no problem (other than handling!).

Did yours have a CVD as close to the edge of the diff cup as the op's first photos back on page 1? 

I only ask because even after I fixed that stripped screw hole on the P plate my CVD remained very close to the edge.

Ha the handling... I'm yet to experience that richness yet ;)

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15 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Did yours have a CVD as close to the edge of the diff cup as the op's first photos back on page 1? 

I only ask because even after I fixed that stripped screw hole on the P plate my CVD remained very close to the edge.

Ha the handling... I'm yet to experience that richness yet ;)

Yes, I was right on the instruction measurements etc and I was still close to the edge as soon as it was on the floor holding its own weight. The new screw stiffened it up, but still popped within a minute of driving that was not rough by any means. Compared it to my original BF which gave me zero problems and just seems to have much more travel than the original. Interchanged the suspension which made it a bit better, but still week. Went back to 2016 re re suspension as I want to keep the original BF totally original. So I decided to opt for the frog/brat re re set. Total fix, wish I did it sooner. Few weeks of faffing and disappointment for my son and then £20 and 24hrs later was running how it should have done from the start. 

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I feel your pain mate, had the same issues myself. On the surface, it seemed like they had gone all out to fix the dodgy hex shafts of the original but the execution is so badly flawed that I'm honestly surprised they didn't recall the kits and make a fix for the problem.

I went through exact same experience, right side dog bone falling out, used o rings to keep it in place but that just caused the dog bone to bind halfway through the suspension travel which ruined what was otherwise quite a nice system with the addition of oil dampers for the re-release.

In the end, I shimmed the right hand indrive cup outwards a little which seems to have fixed the issue and doesn't cause binding either. Seems like there was enough length on the splined section that the small extension didn't cause any issues.

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15 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

I feel your pain mate, had the same issues myself. On the surface, it seemed like they had gone all out to fix the dodgy splined shafts of the original but the execution is so badly flawed that I'm honestly surprised they didn't recall the kits and make a fix for the problem. 

My thoughts exactly. How can they sell something like this, when it plain and simple just doesn't work. 

In my case, shortened shocks, bolted-thru metal P-Plates, Frog shafts, O-rings and new trailing arms every couple of runs weren't enough to solve the issue. I'm running vintage Thorp telescopic shafts now. 

DSC_2173.JPG

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Here is a photo of my rear cvd nearly falling out with the stock 80mm shocks and after when the reduced down to 75mm shocks

oUPmfLE.jpg

M8mZ5z8.jpg

 

Plus the shims I put on the front axles to stop wheel wobble and the zip tie around the servo saver which is helping steering wobble

pVpTCJb.jpg

6MJgjbG.jpg

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My nephew took his blackfoot to the track yesterday and it kept throwing the rear driveshafts. I slimmed down a plastic bush and put it on the axle to space it from the inner bearing. Seemed to solve the issue.

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Bump !  I've been thinking Blackfoot next and figured, why not just Blu-Tak the side gears in the diff.  It would be a locker but wouldn't skip.  It's strictly an off roader anyhow.... thoughts ?

 

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