Intro + lunchbox, beetle, TT02b, terrescorcher, Kyosho & Quads - builds and issues

[Problemchild]

**** you guys not being quick to talk me out of these things......

Jadlam had it for £75

given the shell was £15 and the decals were £10 and tyres and wheels are £25 i've got a badword of a lot for the extra £25

given i've been offered £40 to pay for extra parts by SWMBO then i think i've got a good deal haha

JJ

[Problemchild]

oh - and thought i should introduce the other love in my garage.....

smart forfour BRABUS

although massively reliable even though driven hard, it still consumes my time and money

but now i have found tamiya again, which will win??

JJ

[Jason1145]

Just catching up with the thread, my TT02 has a similar problem with the steering not properly centring after with a left or right full lock... I do find adjusting the steering dual rate down a bit helps.

I did get to putting in a new HPI SF-10 waterproof servo which has helped fix it substantially... Putting it down to a duff servo previously.

oh that twokeytwokey Aussie seller is great, I got the aluminium adjustable motor mount for my TT02 from him couple weeks back.

dont you just love how cheap some of these parts are!

[Backlash]

Yeah OK.. I see what you mean now (in the movie)..

What you will need to do is establish where the problem is.. Is it just slop in all of the linkages and servo saver that is causing the problem, or is the steering setup tight and binding (rubbing) on something..????

If you disconnect the steering linkage from the servo saver, the steering should be free enough to turn lock to lock on its own as you rotate the car side to side.. Ideally, it should be able to do this with the wheels off..

You will probably also see some benefit if you swap out the nasty plastic linkage that goes from the servo saver, to the steering setup with one that has captured balls (like on the main steering linkages of your TT02B..)..

Also, does your radio have end point adjustments??

The car in that movie you posted also looked to have way too much throw in the servo, and it was driving the steering knuckles into the end stops, which is not good... If your TT02B MS is doing that, then you will need to adjust the steering end points on your radio so that it doesn't, as it can damage the servo..

[Problemchild]

Thanks 

yeah set the end points to 80% - will double check it's not hitting the end stops 

JJ

[Backlash]

End points are different to exponential..

Exponential (EXP) allows you to reduce the servos throw the same amount in both directions.. Eg. if you set the EXP to 80%, then the servo will only go through 80% of its travel in both direction (or left AND right).

End points allow you to reduce (or increase) the servo's throw in each direction independently.. EG, you could set the servo to travel 80% to the left, and 110% to the right..

[Problemchild]

Ok (I think)

JJ

[TurnipJF]

I thought exponential allowed you to set a response curve, making the steering less sensitive around the centre point and more responsive at greater stick/wheel deflections for example. One of my workmates was telling us how it helped him on fast tracks where be didn't need much steering throw most of the time, but didn't want to lose access to full throw in case he needed to get out of trouble.

 

Rate adjustment on the other hand was used to symmetrically reduce steering throw in both directions. Even my cheap Carson TX has a little dial that can do that. Turn it one way and the servo hardly moves either way, turn it the other way and it moves a lot in both directions.

 

Endpoint adjustment is as you say - setting an absolute limit on how far the servo goes in each direction, usually set independently.

 

Or that is how it was explained to me at any rate...

[Problemchild]

i'll read the instructions and see my my radio gear says

JJ

[Problemchild]

2 x retro re-re

 

JJ

[Problemchild]

better pic of the Lunchbox

 

JJ

[Problemchild]

thought i'd post up my RR Beetle damage in the month i've been running it.....

All street driving so understandable I guess

 

front spot mounting point broken so tie wrapped to the bumper

(seems a bit silly having the mounting point as part of the shell)

 

Bonnet damage from a spikey bush (or possible roll)

 

Roof damage from flips

 

Both wing mirrors gone walkabouts

 

Rear boot handle destroyed and covered up with numberplate (now damaged too)

 

Also did a little bit of lightweighting of the heavy glass sunroof (haha)

 

JJ

[Problemchild]

so after sorting fitting the brushless 8.5T and the TT02B going backwards fast and forwards slow (flipping the diffs but i'm sure there MUST be a way using the ESC and transmitter) i've spent 20mins running it and the tamiya ESC held up well (c50degC according to the laser thermometer)  with the motor running at only about 35degC and the tamiya battery connector just being a little warm.

so all good (for now)

Yeah racing bearing steering fitted too 

 

i tried the 12mm metal hex but they just dont grip the drivershaft and they come off too so sticking with plastic for now

JJ

 

[Jason1145]

Problem nice looking buggy... What's the easiest way to change the centre driveshaft over? Should I disassemble the front or rear to access it?

[Problemchild]

pop the shocks off and motor cover then you can do the 4 screws each end to remove the diff covers and get access

i've just ordered the kyosho nexxt for the little one (he's 6).... £59 inc speed controller and LOADS of cheap parts available on line so thought it was worth it

he doesn't care for oil filled shocks or full ball race set so at great pains steered away from a higher spec car (money that i can spend on my set)

i'll post a review when it arrives

JJ

[Jason1145]

That Nexxt does look value for money for a little one!

Cheers for the advice, I remember last time giving up after removing half the back end ( motor covers etc) and the drive shaft still not coming out, will give it another bash soon this time front and rear ends together.

[Problemchild]

so got the nexxt and it was a fab build for me and my 6yr old

he did 90% of it

it was different to a atamiya build in a number of ways and the instructions are the megablocks of the lego world (ok but not as good as lego)

given it comes with an ESC and motor and screwdriver all for £55 then its great

 

some components pre assembled (gear box and shocks) but the rest is good and the body is superb

 

 

 

initial thoughts.....

tyres are hard so wheel spin a lot (but can wheelie now i have the sports tuned 540 in)

steering is light so understeers (combined with crap tyres)

its heavy but seems a tough unit ( the shell screws to the chassis so its v rigid)

the ESC has no slow reverse and if you change the end points on the redio gear to say 40% then you lose the breaking

BUT - the main thing is he LOVES it

fab entry into model RC kits

JJ

 

 

 

[Problemchild]

fitted the firebolt motor to the beetle as well......

in the heavier chassis its not sooo great as the sports tuned

plan..... torque tuned from unused neo scorcher into nexxt, sports tuned back into beetle, firebolt to bung the hole in the neo haha

JJ

[Problemchild]

Aw - broke the FRP front suspension mount today just on normal road use (think I hit a pot hole haha)

this is supposed to be the stronger one

 

another order into yeah racing - should have them on speed dial 

 

JJ

[Problemchild]

Oh - and my monster beetle steering servo screw keeps coming out! Dab of Superglue??

 

JJ

[richb77]

On 1 October 2016 at 9:12 PM, Problemchild said:

Oh - and my monster beetle steering servo screw keeps coming out! Dab of Superglue??

 

JJ

CA glue won't work with the nylon of the servo (it will but only for a short time...the only thing CA is any good for us when you cut yourself IMO).

you could try PTFE tape (plumbers tape) to engage the threads better. Not sure any readily available adhesives will work on the nylon.

[TurnipJF]

Few adhesives work really well with nylon, but one I have found works well enough to stop the escape of errant screws is Unibond Repair Extreme - a rubbery glue similar to Shoo Goo that seems to grip nylon quite well.

[Problemchild]

i may try some "no nail" 

the issue isn't the screw loosening - it just gets pulled out 

servo saver still fitted

ordered some df-02 adjustable dampers from fusion hobbies for the TT02b (fronts are on back order though)

got my dual block K tyres from RCMart (order and shipped japan to uk in 4 days)

hopefully my suspension mount in on way

ALMOST bought another NeoScorcher for parts and hop ups but had second thoughts

almost bid on a terra scorcher too

JJ

[Problemchild]

ok so used some ptfe tape as suggested as superglue and threadlock failed after a few mins..... will see how it holds!!

fitted the dual blocks and glued - god the grip is pap compared to the standard spikeys!! haha

got my yeah racing front mount from oz - has really stabilised the front end (i'm thinking i may have had a fault with it maybe

 

there was a slight issue as the kit isn't set up for the MS and its adjustable top supports so needed to steal some ball mounts off the neo scorcher donor haha

 

JJ

[Rb4276]

Im convinced those FRP shock towers are not much better. They are very flimsy, you should see the battery tray one,can bend it so easily. I may just order the aluminum not just for strength but bling too. also the rear shock tower screws back out all the time, i also have the same problem with 2 of the screws on the spur gear cover that ive had a problem with since it was built