Monster Beetle 2015 Front Damper Stay

[tomjkear]

Hi All,

It's my first time building one of these and I am a bit surprised at the front damper stay.  It attaches with 2 nuts and bolts where the bolt will only allow the nut to tighten so far. Obviously this is so the front arms can move freely but it means the damper stay has some play. As far as I can tell the only additional support will come front a single screw at the front centre and by strapping the dust cover down with zip ties. 

This is step 11 in the manual and I can easily rock the damper stay back and forth with only light force.

Does this sound right or am I overlooking something here? Just wondered what others opinions were

[Frog Jumper]

I remember that...

I replaced that bolt with a standard one, added a washer on the "stay" side that fit in the hole, and used the same nut.

I used a brass tube to support the arm...  I also switch to a King Blackfoot servo cover and MSC plate, and CRP supports...

http://jpegbay.com/gallery/005068524-2.html#2

(eta, in these photos, I have the screws that hold the "stay" onto the servo cover out - they are missing from the photos)

Terry

 

[tomjkear]

7 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

I remember that...

I replaced that bolt with a standard one, added a washer on the "stay" side that fit in the hole, and used the same nut.

I used a brass tube to support the arm...  I also switch to a King Blackfoot servo cover and MSC plate, and CRP supports...

http://jpegbay.com/gallery/005068524-2.html#2

(eta, in these photos, I have the screws that hold the "stay" onto the servo cover out - they are missing from the photos)

Terry

 

Thanks for the response and the pics, some interesting ideas there I will consider. 

I've got as far as putting the wheels on this evening and notice there is a lot of side to side movement of the front wheels on the axles.  Seems like it needs a washer behind the bearings...

[Darat76]

Your noticing everything I found after I'd completed my one, and those are the reason I'm stuck with a monster beetle that i can't get motivated enough to paint the body, finish installing electrics, and sell.

Add to the above my intense dislike of all things vw beetle related and it may get done next year..... 

[tomjkear]

4 hours ago, Darat76 said:

Your noticing everything I found after I'd completed my one, and those are the reason I'm stuck with a monster beetle that i can't get motivated enough to paint the body, finish installing electrics, and sell.

Add to the above my intense dislike of all things vw beetle related and it may get done next year..... 

Well at least it's not just me being too fussy. I built a FF01 Cavalier, DF03 Dark Impact, and DT02 Sand Viper before this and I was impressed with all 3. I built an Ansmann something-or-other in between and I was disappointed. I came to believe all Tamiya was top quality but I feel (mildly) dissapointed with this kit. I think these are problems I can solve though...I'm going to try finding a washer to take the slop out the front wheels.

[Frog Jumper]

5 hours ago, tomjkear said:

Well at least it's not just me being too fussy. I built a FF01 Cavalier, DF03 Dark Impact, and DT02 Sand Viper before this and I was impressed with all 3. I built an Ansmann something-or-other in between and I was disappointed. I came to believe all Tamiya was top quality but I feel (mildly) dissapointed with this kit. I think these are problems I can solve though...I'm going to try finding a washer to take the slop out the front wheels.

Ha!  "Top quality"???  We're talking about 30year old models, even if they are re-re...  Back then, this was "top quality"...  But to your point, there was a whole industry built around upgrades for the ORV chassis!  

For me, the ORV chassis' are more about the build and not about the drive...  I like tinkering with my Frog and Bush Devil, but don't ever expect them to approach the level of sophistication of more modern cars...

Terry

 

[tomjkear]

13 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

Ha!  "Top quality"???  We're talking about 30year old models, even if they are re-re...  Back then, this was "top quality"...  But to your point, there was a whole industry built around upgrades for the ORV chassis!  

For me, the ORV chassis' are more about the build and not about the drive...  I like tinkering with my Frog and Bush Devil, but don't ever expect them to approach the level of sophistication of more modern cars...

Terry

 

The previous Tamiyas I built I don't remember having any issues. People told me a Mamba Max would eat the ball diff in the DF03 but even after significant abuse I never had problems.

The Ansmann was made of softer plastic and felt generally cheap in comparison. At the time I remember thinking "wow this is nowhere near Tamiya quality".

EDIT: any suggestions on washers /spacers/ shims I can use to tighten up the front wheels? 

[Darat76]

Look at nitro clutch bell shims, think those have the same internal dia, and should press against the internal bearing shell 

[tomjkear]

Just now, Darat76 said:

Look at nitro clutch bell shims, think those have the same internal dia, and should press against the internal bearing shell 

Sounds good. Can you point me at an example? I will find UK stock but I need to know exactly what I'm looking for

[Frog Jumper]

I use these when I need to place a washer behind a bearing...  May or may not work for you...  

http://hpiracing.world/en/part/6125

Terry

[Problemchild]

had no issues with my build at all - was fab!

(is this a re re discussion?)

JJ

[tomjkear]

15 minutes ago, Problemchild said:

had no issues with my build at all - was fab!

(is this a re re discussion?)

JJ

I'm interested to hear more. Did you use the plastic bearings in the kit or upgrade to ball bearings? For me the rear wheels are solid, as I would expect, but the fronts have a good millimeter or so of side to side movement.

Think I am going to try these: http://www.bmmracing.co.uk/answerrc-clutch-shim-23pcs-p-2930.html

[Problemchild]

i have ball race - just buy bearings as they aren't much more than that

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-58060-58618-Monster-Beetle-Original-2015-Bearing-COMPLETE-12-Bearings-/351525969828?var=&hash=item51d8949fa4:m:m-F00h9vbMN5QeXwNZuG-LQ

 

also worth buying the gearbox strengthening kit from the guy on here to stop the gears crunching

JJ

[tomjkear]

18 minutes ago, Problemchild said:

i have ball race - just buy bearings as they aren't much more than that

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-58060-58618-Monster-Beetle-Original-2015-Bearing-COMPLETE-12-Bearings-/351525969828?var=&hash=item51d8949fa4:m:m-F00h9vbMN5QeXwNZuG-LQ

 

also worth buying the gearbox strengthening kit from the guy on here to stop the gears crunching

JJ

That's the exact eBay listing I bought the ball bearings from. I've checked and double checked and the fit is bad with both the plastic and ball bearings. The front shafts are longer than the gap between the wheel so they simply don't tighten.

[Problemchild]

ok - i see what you mean

yes, my beetle and lunchbox have just under 1mm of play

the nut should tighten up to the shoulder of the stub axle 

with the 2 bearings in the wheel hub the wheels spins soooooo smoothly for ages

if you shim the wheel you may just add additional friction

the only play i would worry about is if the wheel rocks wobbles in the stub axle

Just trying to understand your other issue....

(sat with beetle on lap - haha)

 

JJ

[Problemchild]

the fixings that the dampers mount onto do not move around once attached to the chassis

the dampers rotate on the metal ball collar fixings

a "softer" mounting allows for flexing in the chassis, suspension movement, impact resistance etc etc

JJ

[tomjkear]

8 hours ago, Problemchild said:

ok - i see what you mean

yes, my beetle and lunchbox have just under 1mm of play

the nut should tighten up to the shoulder of the stub axle 

with the 2 bearings in the wheel hub the wheels spins soooooo smoothly for ages

if you shim the wheel you may just add additional friction

the only play i would worry about is if the wheel rocks wobbles in the stub axle

Just trying to understand your other issue....

(sat with beetle on lap - haha)

 

JJ

Yes it sounds like you are looking at the same thing I'm going to try adding some shims, not to lock the wheel in tight but just to reduce the movement. I think with the plastic bearings it's a requirement for them to have room to move but with ball bearings they will move freely even if they are more tightly attached. 

I think the damper stay issue is as good as resolved once the dust cover is securely attached. I was mainly surprised because I was comparing with the  Dark Impact where the front stays are much smaller and attached very securely from early in the build.

[tomjkear]

Happy to report the Answer RC clutch shims I linked above are perfect for taking the slop out of the front wheels.  I added x4 0.2mm shims on both sides and screwed the wheel nuts up against the bearings and the wheels are now solid and move freely.  A good spin and they will rotate for ages (bearings from RC bearings - as linked above by Problemchild).

Well happy now.  The car has just done it's first lap of the garden (with no shell).  Next up is to get painting and stickering