Mud Blaster 2 - WT01 Chassis Build/Upgrades/Pics

[Jason1145 4688]

Here's the start of my build thread for my new Mud Blaster 2, it jsut arrived to the UK from Tamico for a bargain price of £116.

Included was a TEU-104BK ESC and 8 x metal shielded bearings as a bonus item.

I already have the necessary 16 x 5x11x4 rubber bearings for the build so I plan to dissasemble the pre-assembled gearbox and replace those 8 bushings in there, and then use the remaining 8 rubber bearings on the wheel hubs.

This gearbox will accept only an 18t or 20t pinion, but I plan to use a brushless system from the start, something between 3000kv to 4000kv on 2s lipo.

I am pretty pleased to finally have a Subaru Brat shaped shell to make a MT from, I plan to decal this as the original Mud Blaster as I don't care much for the MB2 decals.

Oh, and the tyres will need gluing too!

Here's the pics so far.

[mad maz 20]

Tamico are a good outfit I have had a few cars from them at a good price and very fast delivery. A great buy and if you fancy selling the decals let me know please ? 

[Nitomor 2122]

Congrats, and nicely detailed photos, good job. Are you going to fit metal shielded or rubber in the gbox? 

I fitted metal to all the gears and rubber just on the output of the gearbox. On the wheel side rubber. To me it felt like there is a bit more resistance on the rubber shielded bearings but worth the trade off wheelside where they're exposed to the elements but maybe just me being ocd lol!

[Terz1 751]

Look forward to see your progress. I think it's a good call doing the body in vintage style mb decals. I love the look of those. I've got a 4000kv system in mine but I'm on nimh and it really shifts so with 2s lipo it'll go really well. I really do need to go lipo.

[Jason1145 4688]

I'd like to use nimh to keep it traditional but lipo is quite addictive, once you've hit fast speeds it's hard to settle for less.

I think I will do as you suggest Nito, metal bearing in the gearbox it is... Otherwise they will be wasted as I'd never use them outside in the elements

 

[ChrisRx718 4707]

Great fun chassis these, good for jumping also. Mine rocks a 10.5T sensored brushless and it's about as quick as I'd want. Don't be tempted to lock the rear diff if you plan on unleashing lots of speed, as from my experience it just spins out when you apply full throttle (even if you build up speed first...it's mental). 

The only "essential" upgrade I'm sure others would agree, is stronger steering servo posts, else you'll find the steering a bit slow to react and not overly precise, as the force from the servo is just absorbed by the flex in the standard parts, even if you fit a really good servo!

[taffer 952]

I have installed @waterbok shapeway's 3d printed servo holder, much tougher than stock, superb!

(search on shapeways for wt-01)

[Jason1145 4688]

Thanks for the heads up to address the steering, did I see a use of TT01 or TT02 aluminium servo mounts used on this WT-01 somewhere?

The shape ways servo holder for this WT-01 says : 

"

About this Product

servomount for Tamiya WR01/WT01 chassis, Wild Dagger etc.

-

You will have to cut away a little notch/part on the inside of the chassisrail.

(the bit on the opposite side from where the original servo mounts where)

Optional you can also add a bit of plasticard to give it more support.

I tappered the holes with a M3 tap and used M3 screws only.

No tests with tapping screws, don't think that will hold on long term."

 

 

So iI'd need to notch a bit out the chassis but this shape ways mount already has the self tapped m3 screw holes into the mount already done?

[taffer 952]

yes, waterbok's forum post shows where you need to dremel/trim the chassis to ensure a clean fit, I used the original servo mounts to also support the mount at one end

its a better solution than alloy servo mounts (which when i had a fast brushless setup installed still caused issues)

its best to have a servo with a very flexible lead because its a tight fit, my servo, I split the rubber grommet where the lead exits and repaired it with clear sealant afterwards

[Nitomor 2122]

I use the GPM TT01 mounts, perfect fit, no mods required and they eliminate all of the issues with the plastic ones. I'm very happy with them, on sale at £3.56 here...

http://www.asiatees.com/display?Tamiya-Wild-Dagger-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Tamiya&model=Wild%20Dagger&id=45522&pid=1

[Jason1145 4688]

Well I'm plumping for the GPM TT-01 mounts..... No disrespect to the Shapeways mounts just I don't want to pay $11 shipping to the UK on a part that only costs $10

some build progress today, replaced the bushings for metal bearings in the gearbox, mounted up the rear Arms and hubs, built the front chassis up but stopped at the hubs... Spent an hour so far and then got distracted by my waking 6 month old daughter..... It's like she is a beautiful adorable little time sucker!

i did realise I've ordered aluminium rear upper arms due soon .... So I've actually fitted the plastic ones for now but they are a doodle to swap later... But I did feel the "give" in the plastic arms and am concerned I'm going to lose that later... Let's just hope they don't break the mounting points on the rear gearbox or that's a pita to replace lol.

Also waiting on the taller GPM shock towers and some 90mm Absima Oil Dampers too.

 

[Jason1145 4688]

Some build progress from yesterday..... this will drag on for a couple weeks I'm guessing at least, not only I'm waiting n upgrades to arrive but just a lack of time as we all know too well....

So, first to open the gearbox and replace the 6 plastic bushings and 2 brass thingies with metal shielded bearings (included in box)

Next to attach the rear lower arms and also the upper ones (to be replaced with aluminium ones soon)

Using the Tamiya Grease where directed...

The drive cups installed... these hold the diff gear in place inside the gearbox, before these are inserted the diff gear kind of floats about inside the gearbox housing with 2-3mm of free movement before these cups lock it in place.

Onto the rear hub carriers....

Rear carriers fitted and also made up the front assembley thus far.... I had to stop here before starting the front axles.

 

This morning I had 10 minutes spare so managed to cut the lexan Subaru Brat body out ready.... now it's all back in the box.

[ChrisRx718 4707]

There was a handful of eBay auctions for TL01B / WT01 GPM goodies earlier in the week. Not mine, but might be worth trying to track down.

Much like Nitomor I used GPM / generic alloy servo posts on mine and it has been spot on. 

 

[Terz1 751]

I'm sure my gears were white? I heard they changed the colour. Wonder if it's the same material?

[Jason1145 4688]

Yeah Chris those EBay auctions end in 5 hrs from now... GPM towers and hubs and arms.... I didn't know the TL01 and TL01B shared some parts... Tbh I'd not really heard of those models before!

Black gears.... But yes when I look up Wild Dagger parts I see gear sets in white!

Darn I goofed... Just noticed looking through this thread I missed the advice to put rubber bearing on the diff side inside the gearbox... Can I get away with leaving metal shielded ones there?

[Terz1 751]

I think I heard the black ones are actually a better grade of plastic but may be wrong. Might just be a different colour. Not that there's anything wrong with the white ones. They can handle anything.

I've got rubber sealed bearings all round in mine, gearbox hubs, everything. I wouldn't worry about having metal sheilded ones in there though. I think some tend to put all metal in the gearbox and rubber in the hubs. 

I'm watching those TL01B parts too. The ones I wanted most are already more expensive than retail though.  I'll try for everything else though for my TL01B project. They do share parts with the WT01 Jason. Basically everything in those listings. I love some aluminium goodness on mine. It's called a baja champ if you haven't heard of one before. Here's my recent refurb of one....

[ChrisRx718 4707]

Metal shielded will be absolutely fine, rubber shielded are recommended because they're very slightly exposed on the diff outdrives, but unless you're going to be scuba-driving it there won't be an issue. Anything is better than the nylon or brass bearings anyway, so that's the main thing. 

Metal arms aren't the be-all and end-all either, since it transfers extra stress to the gearbox mount. Same with upper arms to a degree, if you use custom tie rods with ball connectors they should pop off before you break anything. Anyone who's ever run a DT02/3 will testify that this is the primary advantage to upgrading the stock arms. Think of it like one of those Crash Test Dummy toys from the 90s, they dismantle themselves on impact!

[Nitomor 2122]

You won't have any issues with the metal shielded bearings on the outdrives, they're quite well shielded there and you've packed the output shafts well with grease anyway. The wheel side is the bit that can really suffer. I was ashamed to find this on my boys Dual Hunter on a routine winter strip down and refurb, decided there and then only rubber shielded to wheel side from now on...

 

 

[Jason1145 4688]

Bah I missed out on the Ebay goodies.... By which I mean I was outbid lol.

cool stuff, can leave the gearbox alone then, and great description of the ball connectors, makes perfect sense.

Nito those bearings look fine

Sold my MB2 decal sheet to Mad Maz, cheers pal  Really hope my Original MB decal sheet arrives now!

[khyzersoze 269]

Nice, you got your wt-01.  I may have to look into that gpm tt-01 mount.

[Nitomor 2122]

These are the GPM TT01 mounts...

Looking forward to seeing the new MB decals and shell work, I think it'll look spot on!

 

[Jason1145 4688]

Those mounts look solid enough, cheers.

Exciting news.... got an A4 envelope today with some decal inside..... but alas, the seller sent me some BlackFoot Stomping Around decals by mistake! I'm waiting for his reply now.

 

[taffer 952]

On ‎11‎/‎09‎/‎2016 at 2:40 PM, ChrisRx718 said:

Metal shielded will be absolutely fine, rubber shielded are recommended because they're very slightly exposed on the diff outdrives, but unless you're going to be scuba-driving it there won't be an issue. Anything is better than the nylon or brass bearings anyway, so that's the main thing. 

Metal arms aren't the be-all and end-all either, since it transfers extra stress to the gearbox mount. Same with upper arms to a degree, if you use custom tie rods with ball connectors they should pop off before you break anything. Anyone who's ever run a DT02/3 will testify that this is the primary advantage to upgrading the stock arms. Think of it like one of those Crash Test Dummy toys from the 90s, they dismantle themselves on impact!

I have to add.... The 'stock arms' for many years on dt02 were tie rods and ball connectors (sand viper and desert gator) vs super g (upper arms), member super gripper's desert gator seem to keep breaking the mounting points on his tie rods (pics might still be in his showroom)...so following this I have always preferred the upper arms to be installed instead and have never broken them (only breakage being the front shock tower) in 10 years of abuse (not just mine either, my nephew did the same)...

just to add my wt-01's and wf-01's over the years have survived very well with plastic arms as well!😃

[Nitomor 2122]

I purposely stayed away from fitting metal arms to my WT's. The plastic ones are pretty much indestructible and absorb much of the impacts.

 

[Jason1145 4688]

I know it's a trade off against some aluminium goodness and plastic resilience... One way I look at it is they sit on a shelf for the majority of the time so I want them looking good whist sat there

But I then think I don't want to break parts unnecessarily purely for vanity reasons arrgghhh! I'm hoping this truck will be light enough to withstand a bit of abuse and not fail me where I'm adding aluminium (upper arms)