mtbkym01

mtbkym01's project thread - Latest “Early Vintage Rough Rider”

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Tight lines !

Not just a fishing tag.

 

  • Haha 1

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Both of these bodies are repro items, and the Turbo one isn’t a great fit imo, it seems to be marginally shrunken and a little short, which made it interesting to fit. Having said that, the chassis itself is far from perfect, and overall I’m really happy with the outcome, compared to what I started with

46360095585_f88f56809c_k.jpgFDA98E4C-3B65-4FA0-AF14-D0FA8F823109 by Kym mtbkym01, on Flickr

47222569852_099d6ed2f5_k.jpg44605685-AF3E-4C83-986B-D66DA246AC64 by Kym mtbkym01, on Flickr

46360095255_2b15cc1c9a_k.jpg51A8AEDA-7B06-4960-AFEC-1269D9124F4F by Kym mtbkym01, on Flickr

The Optima body, although from the same place seems to be a much better fit. I rebuilt this car about 8 years ago, and it has had the body sitting on it unpainted for all that time. I’m so happy to have finally had the body completed

46360095415_254a5d4f7b_k.jpg0DF3CD59-66F2-461F-B440-30C134816406 by Kym mtbkym01, on Flickr

47222568412_c9dbe7e75a_k.jpg125D633F-F11D-4F23-9810-4991D18EDDD8 by Kym mtbkym01, on Flickr

The 2 brothers sitting on their shelf together, I absolutely love this sight

47222567102_1b53e8564d_k.jpg1681B7E5-57A7-4262-A108-63173661F6B6 by Kym mtbkym01, on Flickr

I can’t take credit for the paintwork, this was done by an airbrusher (JA Designs) from here in my home city, as far as I’m concerned they are flawless and well worth the relatively small amount it cost me, much better than I could possibly ever do.

From here I’ll be onto the next project, now to decide what to tackle next

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The next project has commenced, and this one will take a little while, as it’s a rather special little job that has a very significant history in the racing side of our hobby. Based on research and advice from those in the know, this is a Team Associated RC10 early “Edinger” edition. I bought this a while ago as what I thought was just a Gold Pan RC10, but it’s infact a fairly early kit made by Team Associated when they ventured into off road. This car seems to have had a pretty tough life, and bringing this one up to scratch will be time consuming. Being what it is, I’m determined to bring it back to life as original as possible so bear with me, anyway here’s some pics:

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This project will be pic heavy as I want to document a lot of what has to be done to bring this one back to life. Hope you guys like this one

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Sure do Kym, I can see some peroxide whitening coming into play again here !

 

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8 hours ago, Thommo said:

Sure do Kym, I can see some peroxide whitening coming into play again here !

 

Absolutely mate, gonna be a challenge in itself, some of the nylon is discoloured more than others, and even more discolouring on the same part. I dont want to overdo it either, as the original nylon is far from white also, so yeah....challenging :blink:

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Definitely following this. I've got a box with a couple A stamp cars and an early truck. A friend got the urge to restore a couple, but was kicked in the gut when the rereleased cars came out. He practically gave them to me a couple years ago 

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4 hours ago, emory70 said:

Definitely following this. I've got a box with a couple A stamp cars and an early truck. A friend got the urge to restore a couple, but was kicked in the gut when the rereleased cars came out. He practically gave them to me a couple years ago 

That’s great, let me know if you need any tips, or want to offload the truck :rolleyes:

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THese ball cups are one of the key identifiers that this car is an early one, unfortunately some have already been replaced over the years with what look like Tamiya items. I will be utilising all of the original cups where I can, and then using “period correct” Dubro captured ball ends in the other spots

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The chassis tub and parts have been cleaned and are ready, and some hardware has been “de rusted” and coated in WD40

The light shade of gold is another “early kit” sign

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Fairly slow progress on this one, currently sourcing some period correct parts to replace what’s damaged beyond repairable to a satisfactory standard, everything has been stripped now and cleaned, still some whitening to happen to components (running out of natural UV light :angry:)

updates to follow 

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Whitening of parts has been completed, there’s still some slight discolouration on some parts, particularly the gear case halves but as this will be a survivor built with most of its original parts where possible, I don’t think it’ll look too bad once complete

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The colour pretty well matches my new built classic, so I’m satisfied I didn’t “overdo” it

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Wheels and original tyres restored. These Goodyear tyres are extremely rare and again point to this being an early edition kit

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And shocks rebuilt

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I’ve got some period correct replacement parts coming to me that will delay the commencement of the build as per the manual, so I decided I’d get the “6 gear” transmission assembled

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This assembly is the diff, it looks like a slipper, but isn’t 

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The whole assembly together has 3 gears each side of the spine plate, hence being known as the 6 gear transmission, later replaced with the “stealth” transmission which is essentially what every later rear mounted motor 2wd buggy has utilised

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Ready to bolt onto the chassis

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I’ve also assembled the front and rear upper links, utilising all of the very early round bodied ball cups that I had with the car, the steering links will be built using Dubro captured ball ends

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Not sure which motor I’m going to use yet, I have an earlier and a couple later AE Motors that I’ve accumulated over the years. The earlier is a closed end bell that I believe AE used in their early RC12 Pan cars, and the later are “Cadillac” address Reedy Motors, one a Modified, and one a NIP stock

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The replacement screws I have been waiting for from an enthusiast in the USA arrived today, so after work I was able to start rebuilding the chassis. I still need to get hold of some steering links to rebuild the steering system. 

Heres some pics of the rebuild, remembering that this is fully original with no new parts, just a clean and tidy up.

The nose plate is the first step in the manual, I’ve been waiting for these long screws as the original ones were stripped out in the heads

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The front suspension components are next

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As I’d already assemble the 6 gear transmission, the rear end went together very quickly

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Front and rear together

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Shocks and wheels on

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Compared to how this thing looked when I started, I’m pretty happy with how it’s coming along, I plan on getting the body painted this Easter weekend hopefully

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Home alone today, and after getting the chores done that my wife left me with :blink:, I attached the Protech body for the Edinger, I’ve been struggling with what colour to do this thing (I didn’t want to do the “camel” yellow traditional box art). I looked through what PS paints I have and pulled out white, Metallic Blue and Gunmetal. Then I grabbed the Tamiya masking tape and this is the end result

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Next to do is the Spot lights and driver figure, and then to finish off the chassis with electrics, motor and steering components (that I still need to buy)

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For having “just thrown” some paint at that it looks immense. Well done on saving a classic 👍🏻

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Installed old school Futaba Servo And RX, and manufactured a steering linkage as per the manual, even found a round servo horn like what was used originally

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Tracked down the nip parts required to remanufacture the front sway bar, just need them to arrive to get it sorted.

 

And as this is nearing completion, I started thinking about my next project B)

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Picked up the Dubro captured ball ends that are true to period correct hop ups that were used on these back in the day. The modern ones are a little bit more “heavy duty” and required shortening to match what were used back in the day (you can see the differences in the pic below)

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Here is the completed steering system, now just the sway bar to go before I can call this done

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My sway bar parts came in, assembled everything and decided I wasn’t happy with the black set screws used to joint the two ball ends, they are quite translucent. Pulled them apart, grabbed some 2-56 screws (these are imperial hardware) screwed them into one of the ball cups, then cut the heads off with the dremel, am much happier with the final result

Before:

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After:

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A quick sample of the next project on the list

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