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Alex's ZRP Retro Racer aka ???

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Enough teasing here you go guys! Truck will be called Clawing Dead or Last Of The V8's. Please be patient will be a while until I buy NIB Clod and start building.

 

Yes I will be using Clod hard body B)

 

 

 

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I'm guessing the unknown plates in the 2nd to last pic will be battery box end plates, and those clear sticky disk's in the last photo are to protect the battery and battery tray plate from damage, chaffing and such like

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No worries, they're well worth the tenner if you're gonna run it hard

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X members and battery tray installed now I need to purchase a NIB Clod (if you guys have one you want to sell let me know)

Might need to get with the times and buy myself a lipo Retro Racer chassis is not designed for old school nimh battery packs. Will be honest I never even considered this before buying.

Nice bit of kit B)

 

 

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Doesn't the battery go at the bottom of the chassis? Seems a bit strange to have it so high up in a race chassis
If it doesn't, try mounting the plate upside down and run the battery underneath it :D

 

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Just found this, battery tray at bottom, looks quite close to gearboxes though

Retro1.jpg

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Yes I considered mounting the battery tray upside down. I checked with Jonathon (ZRP) and I have deffo mounted it the right way around. The chassis shown in the photo you posted was the first prototype the battery tray and upper link tray are totally different designs now.

 

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Seeing at the tray's only a plate to tie velcro straps round, I'd fit it USD and sling the battery under it - You want the battery's weight as low down as possible, especially when cornering.

Looking at that ESC plate and the fitting holes in the chassis, you're maybe 4-5mm out on battery-pack height? - I doubt a LiPo is that much thinner than a NiMh, especially hard-case LiPos (a soft-pack LiPo and the chance of a heavy crash is a combo best avoided)

Either that or fit a battery to the lower plate -  a saddle-pack LiPo might fit on the non-battery plate, just countersink the holes where those button-head screws are.

 

You mention upper-links too - where are they?
Stock Clods don't use upper links :blink:

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Basically the chassis is designed for "stubby" (short length) lipos which fit it perfectly. Yes mounting battery tray upside down is deffo an option.

Have solved the issues regarding mounting nimh NiCad packs will update show how I will do it. Will make sense with future updates I promise!

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Ah, forgot about the 'blue' links - I've only ever stripped Clods down or used NIBs for axles, I've never actually built one :unsure:

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Ok so this happened... guys I need a complete set of TXT-1, TXT-2 or Jugg 2 center gearbox and axles anyone got a set they want to sell?

Otherwise I will be forced to buy NIB TXT-2 which will cost me big style.

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Tried to get hold of a used set of TXT-1/2 axles and gearbox but no joy so... this arrived today from Germany the cheapest NIB TXT-2 I could find on the planet 321.25 pounds posted.

Shrink wrapped too B) and comes with " bonus items included " sticker. Have not opened it yet!

Also came in the post today custom made chassis bracing by CPE 102mm long seven in total. Time to get building!

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Had to drill the X member mounting holes in the chassis plates a bit wider to accept CPE mounting bolts but well worth it for the end result. Full metal shielded bearings will be installed throughout the transmission.

 

I still think the TXT transmission is one of the coolest things in monster truck rc!

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Managed to find rod ends with M4 eyelets and M4 internal threading here they are fitted on stock TXT-2 lower links! Got these rod ends off ebay they are actually meant for 1:1 race cars after much searching it appears M4/M4 RC rod ends pretty much don't exist.

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Xtreme Racing TXT servo mounts and eight Chinese knock off scale shocks bought off Ebay which cost me 26.62 dollars. RC4WD likewise scale shocks would have cost me 120 dollars saved a lot this way :)

 

 

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Not very exciting but I will be using a Clod hard body. Not much choice out there with hard body's! Keep a look out for next update :)

 

 

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Looking good so far.  Makes me wonder which direction I should head with my TXT-2.  I've got a brand new kit just sitting there waiting for me to get around to it.

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14 hours ago, khyzersoze said:

Looking good so far.  Makes me wonder which direction I should head with my TXT-2.  I've got a brand new kit just sitting there waiting for me to get around to it.

You lucky thing B) here is what I would get in your shoes a Defiance TXT amazing piece of kit (notice upside down gearbox for low COG) and a rare beast too boot.

 

Contact Mike at Defiance Racing and he will make the chassis kit for you very helpful guy to deal with. Picture below

 

 

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Mounted Clod body managed to get mount holes exactly where I want them easier than it looks. Body sits nice and low true retro style B)

Contacted a few decal makers turns out the design I want for the lettering on the doors (CLAWING DEAD) is not possible and time and space would collide or something.

Soooo... will have Clawing Dead text on the doors PRO airbrushed wont be cheap but be worth it. Out of desperation! even contacted RCS (Jon) went the way it always goes agrees to do the job then suddenly stops replying. I never learn my lesson!

Anyway plan for design is;

# Body sprayed black

# Neon green CLAWING DEAD text on the doors

# Grill sprayed neon green

# Custom aluminum roll bar instead of stock plastic one

# J concepts Firestone tires with green or black J concepts wheels (recently released neon yellow so maybe green on the way?)

 

 

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