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Looks great!

 

Did you apply any treatment to the edges of the fibreglass parts or are they as supplied?

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2 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Looks great!

 

Did you apply any treatment to the edges of the fibreglass parts or are they as supplied?

Thank you! I did not apply anything as the instructions did not mention.  Now that you mention, maybe I'll go back and run some glue over the edges.

 

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12 hours ago, neverfollow said:

IMG_9698.JPG

I'm sorry to say that you used the incorrect grease for the gears.

You used probably the Molibdenum grease that is useful for metallic gears. For plastic gears you must use white Ceramic grease.

Max

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6 hours ago, kontemax said:

I'm sorry to say that you used the incorrect grease for the gears.

You used probably the Molibdenum grease that is useful for metallic gears. For plastic gears you must use white Ceramic grease.

Max

Thanks Max, I used Team Associated's black grease. I've used it before on plastic gears without any issues. Luckily the gearbox comes apart easily if I have any issues. 

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16 hours ago, neverfollow said:

Thanks Max, I used Team Associated's black grease. I've used it before on plastic gears without any issues. Luckily the gearbox comes apart easily if I have any issues. 

I believed you used Tamiya greases so the black one is made with molybdenum.

I don't know about the Asso grease, sorry.

 

max

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On 10/2/2016 at 9:53 PM, neverfollow said:

I purchased the kit with the intention of not building it, and tucking it away somewhere. But where's the fun in that? So today I began the build. I also ordered a few bits to add originality and improve it's performance. 

That's the spirit.  Even the most precious things I buy, I have intention to run at full tilt. 

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So this weekend I was able to spend some more time with the 934. Trimmed and painted the body, as well as applied the decals. 

58DFE3A8-9079-4580-BD0C-587F933C2E3B_zps

Trimmed

9366F9D3-C8F6-4BFE-9C1E-42E937C08F06_zps

With the rear wing and mirrors fitted

9471D19C-BD2A-4176-8281-65E3E6A736CB_zps

Test fit on the chassis

57A9BBD9-7AD0-4498-BB6D-8E153C4BE302_zps

0E9CC687-B8C5-4A50-AF31-B223C481C9EF_zps

Masks for the windows and lights

62720CE0-D906-4F31-B3A2-2942C02214B5_zps

Detailed the wheels (even though I have no plans to use them)

C4A62F7B-0F12-4288-BFA4-01ED0D2B0764_zps

Paint applied

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Removing the protective film

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Masks off

AAD0EA28-8866-46DC-9092-86B1F7CD1949_zps

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Another test fit 

7A2D4FF5-2151-4EAA-9A42-11BDD050F87A_zps

Next, the many decals

28739D7D-104F-449F-A53C-73EC02CBEF9B_zps

CF0DD4E1-545F-4DBD-86EF-0448846FC61B_zps

And next, the lights. The kit comes with a TLU-01 light unit and 5mm leds for the front and rear. I chose to add 3mm leds for the front and rear marker lights, and 3mm leds for the reverse lights. I plan to add a TLU-02 to control the lights properly. 

Here with all lights illuminated at once (hope to get my TLU-02 sometime this week)

F691ADFC-A23F-424E-A44F-104F14A098C3_zps

90069BA7-3030-473B-A456-DFCAC79B61AA_zps

With the lights off

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DBF1B3AF-39D7-467A-92C1-6BDDA7F4955B_zps

DE3D5585-73EF-4703-8E1D-235EF3812BF6_zps

 

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Welcoming him to the Porsche family :)

B0359719-08A7-439C-931D-991548814E63_zps

That's it for now, definitely more to come!

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On 10/2/2016 at 9:28 AM, Nitomor said:

Yes, I desperately need some shock holders to make suspension builds more palatable ;)

Blister packs would be nice (and deserving on a 40th anniversary you would have thought!?!) with just the carded seperator though the kits still looked nicely presented.

I suspect I'll go box art, I feel compelled to on that tbh, but I will probably use a pearl white and sparklescent blue to lift it a little. Really looking forward to it, it'll be my first SRB build so I want to take my time on it, I suspect it'll be xmas, I don't want to start it until I clear the backlog I currently have and have some quality time to get into the build, xmas time I guess.

cheers

Nito

Buy a Tamiya shock tool (damper air remover). Not only will it make your shocks super consistent and awesome, but it's also a shock holder. Honestly, it's in my top 5 tools to own if you are an RC addict.

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Wow, thanks for that, I can honestly say I've never seen that before. It's part of the build that I both do and don't enjoy, the messy bit I don't like! It's pretty expensive over here at the moment but if the pound ever recovers I might well pick one up. Is this the one to get, the super long one...(I guess this would work with shorter ones too?

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54152-damper-remover-p-28887.html?cPath=389_690 

ps. Car looks great, I love the extra detailing you've done on the wheels, really makes a difference to them!

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Almost done :D some more goodies arrived yesterday. 

10.5T brushless motor and sensor wire, TLU-02 lighting controller, alloy servo posts, alloy hexes, king pins, TRF dampers, and an interior. Only thing missing are the wheels.  

99DAB48C-82EB-4391-AD00-7A2DD05234EB_zps

Before, rear

99950570-439B-400E-B984-9D34B3386CBF_zps

Before, front

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The hexes

89FDFF1A-8F19-4A8E-A448-7ED803DFE6AA_zps

The king pins 

9D242D39-51CE-49CA-932E-F502305FDADE_zps

The servo mounts

13FABA8D-4F7D-46C2-813C-B5D9A1E420DB_zps

Before

D38CAF56-36DC-4796-8C3B-669DA250C8E5_zps

And after

C02DB7B0-13A9-402C-8B31-41EC87219538_zps

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Next were the brushless motor, sensor wire, TLU-02, and a mess of wiring..

Out with the Sport Tuned

799B5F13-8E45-4E3B-92A3-3894E026C850_zps

C441A269-B396-4923-8343-ABF4EE3F3C13_zps

Sensor wire

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I thought to cover up all the wiring and TLU-01...

95BDCE32-B6E4-41FA-A082-CE188CA087E7_zps

with some Velcro so that it appeared to have a headliner...

A29B2B0F-2F5B-41A3-910D-5D40846F7A33_zps

But then I removed it because it just didn't look right.

For the dampers, I picked up 2 different sets. I decided on the TRF's only because my other TA-02 has the pink aluminum ones.

82495A04-9EAD-4F27-A89D-CE608F3590B8_zps

Assembling

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Evening's work finished

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BD8F658A-FCCE-4D1D-BE1C-19710EA3F3CA_zps

82CD1278-B26C-4F41-A99C-B6D77AA6579F_zps

Wheels and interior coming up next, stay tuned :)

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Looking good! You need to trim quite a bit off the interior to make it fit, does make the world of difference though!

cockpit-934.jpg

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Looking awesome Bel!

Just a bit jealous....

Are you keeping the bulky ugly Tamiya battery connectors? I think the wiring would look a lot tidier with xt60 or bullet type connectors...

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On 10/10/2016 at 6:50 PM, neverfollow said:

 

F691ADFC-A23F-424E-A44F-104F14A098C3_zps

90069BA7-3030-473B-A456-DFCAC79B61AA_zps

With the lights off

Tamiya seriously underestimated the light bleed on this model, I'm a bit surprised that the fixtures don't mitigate it more.   That said I've only had one lit-up Tamiya shell, the Alfa MiTo.   I have a suggestion, add some black or silver tape around where the light fixtures are on the inside of the shell.  Also shroud where the LEDs plug into the fixtures, that will keep it from randomly lighting the bodyshell.

That said, you've given me a great idea.  I think i should use my TT02 as my 'cool florida nights' car.  And have a semi-transparent body on it.  I have this light setup from a few years ago that has no real use because its intended for 1/10th trucks... not cars.  I'll have a goal of making the entire body glow.

Like they do for RC planes:
img_3.jpg

Also FWIW giving a backing coat to the body color is helpful to light bleed and protecting the paint for running the car (especially on parking lots).  Choose a contrasting color and just use regular spray paint for plastics (doesn't have to be polycarb because you don't care if it cracks).  I use gold/copper for warm color cars, and silver for white and cool colors.

The Pantera is backed with gold throughout, the Stratos & Countach are both backed with silver.  

IMG_20160904_221736_zpsxhfdb7dz.jpg

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21 hours ago, Truck Norris said:

Looking good! You need to trim quite a bit off the interior to make it fit, does make the world of difference though!

cockpit-934.jpg

Thanks for the tip Truck Norris! The last one I did for my Gulf livery TA02 took some major trimming towards the rear as well. Especially with the hump for the rear gear box. 

Yours looks great!

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6 hours ago, Bomba01 said:

Looking awesome Bel!

Just a bit jealous....

Are you keeping the bulky ugly Tamiya battery connectors? I think the wiring would look a lot tidier with xt60 or bullet type connectors...

I was considering changing the connectors, but the lighting unit comes with the Tamiya style connector, so I got lazy. It all depends on how often/how hard I run this guy. 

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1 hour ago, firefoxussr said:

Tamiya seriously underestimated the light bleed on this model, I'm a bit surprised that the fixtures don't mitigate it more.   That said I've only had one lit-up Tamiya shell, the Alfa MiTo.   I have a suggestion, add some black or silver tape around where the light fixtures are on the inside of the shell.  Also shroud where the LEDs plug into the fixtures, that will keep it from randomly lighting the bodyshell.

Also FWIW giving a backing coat to the body color is helpful to light bleed and protecting the paint for running the car (especially on parking lots).  Choose a contrasting color and just use regular spray paint for plastics (doesn't have to be polycarb because you don't care if it cracks).  I use gold/copper for warm color cars, and silver for white and cool colors.

The Pantera is backed with gold throughout, the Stratos & Countach are both backed with silver.  

IMG_20160904_221736_zpsxhfdb7dz.jpg

Thanks Firefox..I normally do back my cars, but wanted to keep it all orange since the windows are clear, to give it the "stripped down race car look".  Maybe I'll try to back the areas with tape. In those pictures the lights are at full brightness because the light controller wasn't connected yet. So the tail lights will be dimmer during normal running. 

But backing the light area at least is a good idea nonetheless, thank you! Much appreciated!

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+1 on backing the orange with another colour. For mine I did orange (full can), then white (1/2 can), then silver (1/2 can), then black (1/2 can). I check for transparency with a high power bike headlight - not a drop of light gets through :D 

For a body colour interior I would do orange, white, silver, then orange again. The real Max Moritz 934 is black on the inside though.

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Build complete, now just waiting to give it a run! 

MST wheels and Tamiya super slicks

62BF3D78-09EC-4B00-B4AD-C497844A45BC_zps

0F249CA6-C3F9-49CF-BDF4-4071A7009D34_zps

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38A23D73-70C6-45D9-89B0-A364C6296BF6_zps

BB3E47C9-D877-4908-9177-7433E403BF66_zps

Fitting the interior

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Driver

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25F4E57E-DAFC-411A-8A26-9DA512EE53F3_zps

Painting the cockpit 

2F835B9F-1298-4C9F-BE80-A9E40C1953A6_zps

A6B471D8-7F3C-4FD3-89A6-FF14EB2562AF_zps

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19563CA1-9011-4EFA-B402-01A515B459D0_zps

6C78B1D1-8110-451E-B83E-D4375CEAA846_zps

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32CE778E-0553-4922-B505-7D32295F3413_zps

And finished!

2DA278E3-9237-4147-82FF-DD5698CE94D1_zps

C77F66B6-86BE-4860-AC09-2DCA2E1C6003_zps

Looking forward to taking it out this coming weekend! 

Thanks for viewing!

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Thanks for posting a build thread neverfollow!  I've not seen one done for this chassis before.

On 10/2/2016 at 10:28 AM, Nitomor said:

Yes, I desperately need some shock holders to make suspension builds more palatable ;)

Blister packs would be nice (and deserving on a 40th anniversary you would have thought!?!) with just the carded seperator though the kits still looked nicely presented.

I have like 5 of those Duratrax car stands and I never realized the holes in the deck could be used for shock building.  :huh:

Seems like no one packages the kits like Tamiya of yesteryear.  It's all space-saving crammed into the box as tightly as possible style.  It might be more environmentally and shipping cost friendly but IMHO it takes away some of the grandeur of opening up a new kit.

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I finally got a chance to run the car this past weekend. I must say, it runs great! Dampers are a bit on the stiff side, but it is definitely fun, and rather quick :)

Here's video, hope you enjoy!

 

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