TurnipJF 9113 Posted October 2, 2016 Looks great! Did you apply any treatment to the edges of the fibreglass parts or are they as supplied? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 2, 2016 2 minutes ago, TurnipJF said: Looks great! Did you apply any treatment to the edges of the fibreglass parts or are they as supplied? Thank you! I did not apply anything as the instructions did not mention. Now that you mention, maybe I'll go back and run some glue over the edges. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kontemax 1723 Posted October 3, 2016 12 hours ago, neverfollow said: I'm sorry to say that you used the incorrect grease for the gears. You used probably the Molibdenum grease that is useful for metallic gears. For plastic gears you must use white Ceramic grease. Max 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 3, 2016 6 hours ago, kontemax said: I'm sorry to say that you used the incorrect grease for the gears. You used probably the Molibdenum grease that is useful for metallic gears. For plastic gears you must use white Ceramic grease. Max Thanks Max, I used Team Associated's black grease. I've used it before on plastic gears without any issues. Luckily the gearbox comes apart easily if I have any issues. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theibault 1535 Posted October 3, 2016 Excellent build thread! Looking forward to building mine soon. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kontemax 1723 Posted October 4, 2016 16 hours ago, neverfollow said: Thanks Max, I used Team Associated's black grease. I've used it before on plastic gears without any issues. Luckily the gearbox comes apart easily if I have any issues. I believed you used Tamiya greases so the black one is made with molybdenum. I don't know about the Asso grease, sorry. max 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefoxussr 482 Posted October 4, 2016 On 10/2/2016 at 9:53 PM, neverfollow said: I purchased the kit with the intention of not building it, and tucking it away somewhere. But where's the fun in that? So today I began the build. I also ordered a few bits to add originality and improve it's performance. That's the spirit. Even the most precious things I buy, I have intention to run at full tilt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 10, 2016 So this weekend I was able to spend some more time with the 934. Trimmed and painted the body, as well as applied the decals. Trimmed With the rear wing and mirrors fitted Test fit on the chassis Masks for the windows and lights Detailed the wheels (even though I have no plans to use them) Paint applied Removing the protective film Masks off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 10, 2016 Another test fit Next, the many decals And next, the lights. The kit comes with a TLU-01 light unit and 5mm leds for the front and rear. I chose to add 3mm leds for the front and rear marker lights, and 3mm leds for the reverse lights. I plan to add a TLU-02 to control the lights properly. Here with all lights illuminated at once (hope to get my TLU-02 sometime this week) With the lights off Welcoming him to the Porsche family That's it for now, definitely more to come! 14 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theibault 1535 Posted October 11, 2016 On 10/2/2016 at 9:28 AM, Nitomor said: Yes, I desperately need some shock holders to make suspension builds more palatable Blister packs would be nice (and deserving on a 40th anniversary you would have thought!?!) with just the carded seperator though the kits still looked nicely presented. I suspect I'll go box art, I feel compelled to on that tbh, but I will probably use a pearl white and sparklescent blue to lift it a little. Really looking forward to it, it'll be my first SRB build so I want to take my time on it, I suspect it'll be xmas, I don't want to start it until I clear the backlog I currently have and have some quality time to get into the build, xmas time I guess. cheers Nito Buy a Tamiya shock tool (damper air remover). Not only will it make your shocks super consistent and awesome, but it's also a shock holder. Honestly, it's in my top 5 tools to own if you are an RC addict. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nitomor 2122 Posted October 11, 2016 Wow, thanks for that, I can honestly say I've never seen that before. It's part of the build that I both do and don't enjoy, the messy bit I don't like! It's pretty expensive over here at the moment but if the pound ever recovers I might well pick one up. Is this the one to get, the super long one...(I guess this would work with shorter ones too? http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54152-damper-remover-p-28887.html?cPath=389_690 ps. Car looks great, I love the extra detailing you've done on the wheels, really makes a difference to them! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 13, 2016 Almost done some more goodies arrived yesterday. 10.5T brushless motor and sensor wire, TLU-02 lighting controller, alloy servo posts, alloy hexes, king pins, TRF dampers, and an interior. Only thing missing are the wheels. Before, rear Before, front The hexes The king pins The servo mounts Before And after Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 13, 2016 Next were the brushless motor, sensor wire, TLU-02, and a mess of wiring.. Out with the Sport Tuned Sensor wire I thought to cover up all the wiring and TLU-01... with some Velcro so that it appeared to have a headliner... But then I removed it because it just didn't look right. For the dampers, I picked up 2 different sets. I decided on the TRF's only because my other TA-02 has the pink aluminum ones. Assembling Evening's work finished Wheels and interior coming up next, stay tuned 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Truck Norris 2237 Posted October 13, 2016 Looking good! You need to trim quite a bit off the interior to make it fit, does make the world of difference though! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bomba01 35 Posted October 14, 2016 Looking awesome Bel! Just a bit jealous.... Are you keeping the bulky ugly Tamiya battery connectors? I think the wiring would look a lot tidier with xt60 or bullet type connectors... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefoxussr 482 Posted October 14, 2016 On 10/10/2016 at 6:50 PM, neverfollow said: With the lights off Tamiya seriously underestimated the light bleed on this model, I'm a bit surprised that the fixtures don't mitigate it more. That said I've only had one lit-up Tamiya shell, the Alfa MiTo. I have a suggestion, add some black or silver tape around where the light fixtures are on the inside of the shell. Also shroud where the LEDs plug into the fixtures, that will keep it from randomly lighting the bodyshell. That said, you've given me a great idea. I think i should use my TT02 as my 'cool florida nights' car. And have a semi-transparent body on it. I have this light setup from a few years ago that has no real use because its intended for 1/10th trucks... not cars. I'll have a goal of making the entire body glow. Like they do for RC planes: Also FWIW giving a backing coat to the body color is helpful to light bleed and protecting the paint for running the car (especially on parking lots). Choose a contrasting color and just use regular spray paint for plastics (doesn't have to be polycarb because you don't care if it cracks). I use gold/copper for warm color cars, and silver for white and cool colors. The Pantera is backed with gold throughout, the Stratos & Countach are both backed with silver. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 14, 2016 21 hours ago, Truck Norris said: Looking good! You need to trim quite a bit off the interior to make it fit, does make the world of difference though! Thanks for the tip Truck Norris! The last one I did for my Gulf livery TA02 took some major trimming towards the rear as well. Especially with the hump for the rear gear box. Yours looks great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 14, 2016 6 hours ago, Bomba01 said: Looking awesome Bel! Just a bit jealous.... Are you keeping the bulky ugly Tamiya battery connectors? I think the wiring would look a lot tidier with xt60 or bullet type connectors... I was considering changing the connectors, but the lighting unit comes with the Tamiya style connector, so I got lazy. It all depends on how often/how hard I run this guy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 14, 2016 1 hour ago, firefoxussr said: Tamiya seriously underestimated the light bleed on this model, I'm a bit surprised that the fixtures don't mitigate it more. That said I've only had one lit-up Tamiya shell, the Alfa MiTo. I have a suggestion, add some black or silver tape around where the light fixtures are on the inside of the shell. Also shroud where the LEDs plug into the fixtures, that will keep it from randomly lighting the bodyshell. Also FWIW giving a backing coat to the body color is helpful to light bleed and protecting the paint for running the car (especially on parking lots). Choose a contrasting color and just use regular spray paint for plastics (doesn't have to be polycarb because you don't care if it cracks). I use gold/copper for warm color cars, and silver for white and cool colors. The Pantera is backed with gold throughout, the Stratos & Countach are both backed with silver. Thanks Firefox..I normally do back my cars, but wanted to keep it all orange since the windows are clear, to give it the "stripped down race car look". Maybe I'll try to back the areas with tape. In those pictures the lights are at full brightness because the light controller wasn't connected yet. So the tail lights will be dimmer during normal running. But backing the light area at least is a good idea nonetheless, thank you! Much appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Truck Norris 2237 Posted October 14, 2016 +1 on backing the orange with another colour. For mine I did orange (full can), then white (1/2 can), then silver (1/2 can), then black (1/2 can). I check for transparency with a high power bike headlight - not a drop of light gets through For a body colour interior I would do orange, white, silver, then orange again. The real Max Moritz 934 is black on the inside though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted October 16, 2016 Build complete, now just waiting to give it a run! MST wheels and Tamiya super slicks Fitting the interior Driver Painting the cockpit And finished! Looking forward to taking it out this coming weekend! Thanks for viewing! 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Effigy3 1267 Posted October 17, 2016 Thanks for posting a build thread neverfollow! I've not seen one done for this chassis before. On 10/2/2016 at 10:28 AM, Nitomor said: Yes, I desperately need some shock holders to make suspension builds more palatable Blister packs would be nice (and deserving on a 40th anniversary you would have thought!?!) with just the carded seperator though the kits still looked nicely presented. I have like 5 of those Duratrax car stands and I never realized the holes in the deck could be used for shock building. Seems like no one packages the kits like Tamiya of yesteryear. It's all space-saving crammed into the box as tightly as possible style. It might be more environmentally and shipping cost friendly but IMHO it takes away some of the grandeur of opening up a new kit. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted November 12, 2016 I finally got a chance to run the car this past weekend. I must say, it runs great! Dampers are a bit on the stiff side, but it is definitely fun, and rather quick Here's video, hope you enjoy! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nitomor 2122 Posted November 15, 2016 Lovely build that 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites