My first NSX body shell painting log

[Totoro 8]

My first spray paint since my college years with some inspiration from other guides on the internet.

The new Honda/Acura NSX body is going to be on my TRF419X chassis.

 Note. The image may not be very clear as it was taken inside a DIY spray booth.

Main body colour scheme

Pearl White, Tamiya PS-57

Roof, Rear and front bumper

I'd changed the standard black (PS-5) having got some interesting information from a blog at Soul RC in the following order:-

Translucent Purple, Tamiya PS-45

Pearl Clear, Tamiya PS-58

Metallic Red, Tamiya PS-15

Gun metal, Tamiya PS-23

The pearl clear was suppose to be the first layer, but I didn't want high reflective (or sparkle?) in the finish so I'd decided to the change layering sequence.

More image to follow.

Front close up (image below) of the bumper; you can just about notice the dark metallic/pearl purple effect.

 

[Totoro 8]

The windscreen and windows are sprayed according to the guide with Smoke (PS-31); 2 coats; 30 minutes between coats.

 

[Totoro 8]

Time to remove the protective film!

After removing the film, I'd noticed that my masking was not sufficient at the lower part of the body; mainly near the bumpers.

[Totoro 8]

Top front view. Side elevation. Roof top view. Rear view.

95% of the decals are in place.

Some minor black lining to complete to give a little realistic look.

 

Edited October 10, 2016 by Totoro
Additional image added

[ChrisRx718 4470]

Nice. I have a pearl white NSX I need to finish, but it's a second generation type. Love how the pearl colour looks under light. 

[Totoro 8]

1 hour ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Nice. I have a pearl white NSX I need to finish, but it's a second generation type. Love how the pearl colour looks under light. 

The masking was not sufficient, so I am a little disappointed. Yes I agree. the pearl white looks good under light. Got the wing mirrors to paint in pearl white to complete.

[Totoro 8]

Black lining complete. Just the wing mirrors remaining. I am considering installing a spoiler but not sure the what it may look like so I will put is on hold and see the completed before installing a spoiler.

[ChrisRx718 4470]

What did you use for the lines? They look brilliant, top job.

[Totoro 8]

9 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

What did you use for the lines? They look brilliant, top job.

I thought about using a permanent marker because that's what I did in the past many years ago; but the lady at the local model shop recommend using lining tape. The lining tape comes in 0.5, 0.8, 2.1, 3.3, 5.0, 7.0 and 10.0mm roll. I am not sure how it will fair on the track but considering the timescale and the simplicity of doing the lining I can replace them if they come off.

I also use cotton bud sticks and cocktail sticks to piece the lining onto the body.

Edited October 10, 2016 by Totoro
Additional text added.

[GooneyBird 938]

Should it be that it comes off easily on track, Parma makes a great detailing pen with a thin and a really-really thin tip on either end. This is a lot better than permanent marker (which can turn out a bit blue-ish), and stays put on the track.

[Totoro 8]

5 minutes ago, GooneyBird said:

Should it be that it comes off easily on track, Parma makes a great detailing pen with a thin and a really-really thin tip on either end. This is a lot better than permanent marker (which can turn out a bit blue-ish), and stays put on the track.

Thanks for info; I will try the detailing pen on the next body. I currently have a Raybrig HSV-010 (Tamiya item. 51429) and a Subaru BRZ R&D Sport 2014 Rd.2 Fuji (Tamiya item. 51575) for me practice my spray painting on.

[qatmix 794]

I assume you will be racing your TRF419? Come down to the Stockport Model car club on Thursday eve's (Its actually just of the M60 near cheadle). There are a few of us racing TRF's there.

 

[Totoro 8]

1 minute ago, qatmix said:

I assume you will be racing your TRF419? Come down to the Stockport Model car club on Thursday eve's (Its actually just of the M60 near cheadle). There are a few of us racing TRF's there.

 

I haven't been actually racing RC touring car before. I re-started this hobby recently so a few tips will be good; especially the car set up etc. Are there any rules, eg. BRCA? Or is the club flexible on normal meetings? Thanks.

[qatmix 794]

No BRCA needed. Just come down and have a chat. It's a really laid back friendly club and you can take a look at my TRF  

 

We do not have rigid classes as its open to all,  although many run 13.5 motors (Anything faster is a bit of overkill). 

 

[Totoro 8]

1 minute ago, qatmix said:

No BRCA needed. Just come down and have a chat. It's a really laid back friendly club and you can take a look at my TRF

Sounds good; will take up on your offer. What time on Thursday evening?

[qatmix 794]

Doors open at 7, just pop in and say Hi. Terry is a moderator here and he runs the club.

Here is a link to the facebook page with directions etc

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/77418335936/?hc_ref=SEARCH

[Totoro 8]

A few more images with the chassis and wheels. Got the wing mirrors and light shells to finish then body is complete.

Edited October 10, 2016 by Totoro
minor text revision

[Totoro 8]

Wing mirrors and light shells complete! I'm still considering whether to cut the shell posts as I have 2 other bodies to do.  

[GooneyBird 938]

Totoro (every time I read your username I have the urge to hand you a small umbrella), are you using the provided wheel spacers? Because the tires seem to be right on the edge of the body shell. If you narrow the track a tiny bit, either by removing the wheel spacers or using narrower wheel hexes, they'll sit slightly inside of the body, and that will allow you to lower it at least 1-2 holes, lowering your CoG by that much. (And it'll look meaner because slammed racecar. )

[Totoro 8]

4 hours ago, GooneyBird said:

Totoro (every time I read your username I have the urge to hand you a small umbrella), are you using the provided wheel spacers? Because the tires seem to be right on the edge of the body shell. If you narrow the track a tiny bit, either by removing the wheel spacers or using narrower wheel hexes, they'll sit slightly inside of the body, and that will allow you to lower it at least 1-2 holes, lowering your CoG by that much. (And it'll look meaner because slammed racecar. )

They are the standard wheel hexes that came with the kit. I agree, they are right on the edge of the body shell and I wondered how I can lower the body by another hole. I will definitely give another slight adjustment to the shell. Thanks.

[GooneyBird 938]

Failing that, from memory the TRF comes with 4mm hexes. You can always get a set of 3mm hexes and narrow it a bit like that.  Alternative is to mess around with the toe blocks front and rear, but that can get expensive rather quickly. 

Or are you by chance running running wheels with offset? The TRF is made for wheels with 0 offset, those make the car exactly 188mm wide (the legal limit for most touring car races, or at least the ones that bother checking the width of the car)

[Totoro 8]

On ‎13‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 9:14 PM, GooneyBird said:

Failing that, from memory the TRF comes with 4mm hexes. You can always get a set of 3mm hexes and narrow it a bit like that.  Alternative is to mess around with the toe blocks front and rear, but that can get expensive rather quickly. 

Or are you by chance running running wheels with offset? The TRF is made for wheels with 0 offset, those make the car exactly 188mm wide (the legal limit for most touring car races, or at least the ones that bother checking the width of the car)

Like many ebay shops, they claim that the wheels (fastrax) are 0mm offsets; I think they are 1 or 2mm offsets because the width is 189/190mm wide. I have lowered the body by another hole and the steering does not appear to snag the edge of the wheel arch of the body. I guess I will need to try it out at the local rc club next week.

I will also need to limit (cap) my motor because after chatting with the local racers at the club; 13.5T would be recommended. May get a 13.5T in due course. 

[Fuijo 880]

On 10/10/2016 at 4:17 PM, Totoro said:

The masking was not sufficient, so I am a little disappointed. Yes I agree. the pearl white looks good under light. Got the wing mirrors to paint in pearl white to complete.

It's a beautiful body and you've gone way above and beyond the call of duty for a race car.

But if you do want to fix that there is an easy way. I'm probably going to sound like a cheesy Tamiya commercial here, but it does work, I've done it myself this week.

Tamiya's polycarbonate body cleaner. It works fairly gently, so I imagine it's maybe not for those restoring old shells. But to have on standby when you're working on a shell is a godsend.

Generally when I change colour on a polycarbonate shell I hold it up against a white wall to try to spot the less obvious blow-throughs where it's just a very light mist that isn't really

an eyesore until you put a very light colour like white on top Then it's just a case of dipping a cotton-bud/cue-tip into the cleaner and wiping it off.

 

I've also had a problem just this week where when painting a shell I applied too much paint too quickly (you know, trying to get coverage in those awkward corners and recesses), So that when

the tape is removed, the paint does not tear cleanly along the tape line. You can then use a blade to scrape away the worst of the unstuck paint and clean away any resultant mess in the same

way as above.

 

The cleaner being fairly gentle gives you a nice level of control. You can actually clean right up to the colour boundary provided there are more layers of paint already stuck to the

surface than you are trying to remove. Everything happens gradually, so that you can stop in time if things are not going in the desired direction.

 

So in your case, you could take a cotton-bud with the cleaner and clean right through the white paint in a small area the size of a coin or so. Remove the purple overspray. Then

mask the rest of the body with foil, or something else that's cheap and effective, and just use real masking tape for a little square box over the repair area. Folding over the

edges if you wish to give a soft edge (if your paint is thin) and respray the white. Et voila! No more annoying you every time you see it!

 

The only problem I forsee is that with the paint being white, and the cotton-bud also being white, it's not as obvious that progress is being made. Do they come in other colours?

Anyway, you could always check with a coloured cloth to see if any paint is actually coming off should you have doubts.

 

[Totoro 8]

@Fuijo Thanks for the tip; will give it a try should I encounter another overspray on my next shell. I am starting trimming the Raybrig HSV-010 so will be posting another work log in due course.