Jason1145

Tamiya Club Official Top 10 Fastest RC'ers List

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40 minutes ago, Darat76 said:

Gravel hound is 4wd buggy, df-02 chassis :)

Good god you're right, I must've typed something in wrong to a quick Google search, thanks Darat.

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I'm interested in participating, but it may be a month before I can do anything due to my current work schedule of zero days off.

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I think I am really going to enjoy this thread,

I understand the limitations of the stats, but I am curious about what results we will see,  Fastest Top Force... Fastest brushed hotshot chassis , Fastest Wild Willy etc.

I am sure we will see some vintage cars really surprise us speed wise, I know my re re Egress with a 6.5 T on a 3 cell was like lightning, my 8.5 T Top Force is no slouch either,

Is the sky rc gps speed meter the best bang for buck unit for this?

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I can see a lot of Tamiyas running on 3s for this, I don't think 2S will cut it for long!

 

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The only time i did a speed test with gps was with my aqroshot in the spring before i went brushless. The set up was 19t steel pinion 2s 5000mah lipo and reedy 17t motor.  I hit 37 mph, now with the brushless 4600kv i have im probably close to 50 mph

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8 hours ago, i_am_scarecrow said:

I'd say the FF series of chassis would certainly be covered by 2WD touring car.

You're right, I forgot about the FF0x series.  That also means we should consider M chassis cars; they're much smaller.

It would be funny to see a M05 Mini be the fastest M chassis and also be the fastest overall in the listings -- there's a challenge!

On top of recording speed run records, this thread might good for sharing tips -- especially aero.  I had an RJ Speed pan car that would do 80 km/h / 50 mph, but at that speed it would get really "floaty."  It was scary to drive.

Time to break out the 9100kV motors, 120A ESCs, and 3S LiPos...  B)

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2 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

I'm interested in participating, but it may be a month before I can do anything due to my current work schedule of zero days off.

Don’t worry Kingfisher I’m sure there are lots of members who would need to either acquire the necessary tools to get this ready or just have difficulty finding the time to actually put it all together.

Members would need to……..

Charge Battery

Check car

Charge Camera

Charge GPS

Make sure all the above are working right before heading out for the speed run (I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve headed out to find one of the above 3 was lacking… worst one was when I forgot to take the remote control with me)

Then you need to arrive at your chosen GPS spot, make sure there are not many people around for the following reasons:

They won’t get in the way of your speed run!

They won’t get hurt by your RC!

They won’t laugh at you for wearing a camera device and trying to film a toy car!

They won’t try to steal your car!

Then, if all is going well you need good weather and a dash of luck for the actual run….. once this all comes together you can return home and then hope you remembered to press record on the camera (yep I’ve done that too) and that you had the car in shot and the camera was not pointed down at your feet/up at the sky (guilty) and then you finally upload the video if your wi-fi is still working perfectly etc etc etc.

Basically, there is a lot that can go wrong with getting these speed runs on camera, so I do appreciate every speed run that will get posted… I know how much work it has taken to get it!

 

On another note, thanks to all the interest shown by you guys, if you want to see your name up on the list get recording, I plan to take a couple cars out soon and Speed run them to get myself on the list early before you speed merchants get your game faces on.

I think 3s will be the order of the day for the top top speeds eventually…. , any fireballs will get bonus points but I cannot be held responsible for melted gearboxes, worn hex’s, burnt motor/esc/lipo’s or smashed camera’s or GPS devices.

Lastly, yes I think the SKYRC GPS is the best device I’ve found for this purpose J Happy to be guided to another device though ;)

 

Great shout on adding the M Chassis class….. adding it now!

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Think I might have an old phone knocking about at home, if I do I will attach it to the blitzer :)

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My Sons Bday is coming up and I was going to get him a new shell, think I will be comboing it tonight with a skyrc device. Damn you man but well done on getting this going, it's going to be fun to modify for a purpose. I have plans afoot for a fast WT!! ;)

 

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19 minutes ago, Nitomor said:

My Sons Bday is coming up and I was going to get him a new shell, think I will be comboing it tonight with a skyrc device. Damn you man but well done on getting this going, it's going to be fun to modify for a purpose. I have plans affoot for a fast WT!! ;)

 

Lol you have plans affoot for a fast woot woot.

2 more victims, I mean members signed up woot woot!

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7 hours ago, Nitomor said:

I can see a lot of Tamiyas running on 3s for this, I don't think 2S will cut it for long!

 

Think bigger ;)

I've got this:

img33435_07082015182428_1.jpg

which produces 2330Watts on 6S, but finding a car to put it in is going to be an issue. Maybe a modified CC-01, with a direct drive to the rear axle ...............

However, I do also have a 1/8 Ezrun speedo which is good for 4S, and I'm wondering if the Ezrun motor in my gravel hound that is rated at 3S would hold together for 4S :ph34r:

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Keen to try my F103GT as I reckon it could dominate the 2wd class with the right gearing and enough grip! It's much easier to go fast when the front wheels are driven rather than the rear. The F103GT is "twitchy" to say the very least... Now where can I get some really sticky 32mm rear tyres which aren't foams? The Tamiya wide racing radials are long discontinued :(

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So I reckon the 4WD buggy class will hit the highest speeds, what say you lot?

I bet some added weights to the front of some 2WD cars are going to be a must!

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Just now, Jason1145 said:

So I reckon the 4WD buggy class will hit the highest speeds, what say you lot?

I bet some added weights to the front of some 2WD cars are going to be a must!

I know when I was racing the gravel hound against an associated B4, the B4 was getting 'Blow overs' at more than 50% throttle due to the light front end, the downforce on the back, and the power of the motor.

I suspect it will either be 4wd buggy or 4wd on road. Probably the buggy as you can use larger wheel & tires, resulting in a smaller rotational speed of the transmission, and therefore less rpm required on the motor

It would of course be very easy to cheat at this, on board camera on the car filming a GPS readout, remove the motor, then attach the 1:10 car to the front of your 1:1 and do 70mph down the road ;)

 

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50 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

So I reckon the 4WD buggy class will hit the highest speeds, what say you lot?

I bet some added weights to the front of some 2WD cars are going to be a must!

A lot of "speed freaks" out there use the stadium truck and buggy from the other 'T' brand.  This is due to the easily adjustable gearing and mass amounts of aftermarket support.  Many of the 2wd buggies and trucks from Tamiya don't have much for gearing options, but I still think that given the right car and setup the 2WD models could still work well and yes weights will probably be required.  I've never really been into dedicated speed runs, but this might be fun.  Maybe its worth adding a Stadium Blitzer to the fleet just for the heck of it.

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So, are there any limits in the rules regarding modifications?  Do the chassis and body have to be kit stock, or can we homebrew some crazy mods for the chassis, and could we run a non-Tamiya body?  What's the spirit of the rules?

Could we mix and match parts between kits?

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So Cody you are already eying up my 27mph Blitzer and rather than it deterring you it's made you go 'I can beat that!' 

Hmmmmm ok bring it on lol.

Regarding the trickery and cheating aspect, a lot will be down to trust so hopefully we will spot if someone took a Tamiya bodyshell and fitted it on top of a Traxxas Slash and hits 100mph... Tsk tsk not acceptable! It will be down to the keen eyed among you to recognise shock positions and chassis shapes etc to keep this Tamiya only.

As for modifications, no rules limiting home brew mods done to a Tamiya chassis. Obviously if you create something that is 2 foot in length we want to see a body off shot! If this helps more entries then it's a good thing.

New rule added - Only Tamiya bodyshells allowed - we all love box art thus we all love Tamiya shaped shells, this is a Tamiya forum so we want to see Tamiya recognisable cars. 

Question - do you guys insist on having the bodyshell fitted or can you run a topless car? This could affect aerodynamics quite a bit so I'm leaning towards having the bodyshell on... This helps keep it looking like a Tamiya too... Might add this to the rules on page 1 if it gets some support, please comment.

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Definately shell on imho and Tamiya chassis with mods allowed but must keep with standard chassis gearbox casings so no alternative boxes bolted to the chasss I'd suggest, otherwise it'll descend into other brand boxes bolted to the chassis, got to keep with the Tamiya fun and feel, but that's just one opinion!

Perhaps have an unlimited category for other brands/full custom chassis/gbox cars.

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75kph with my vintage wild one (hex axles and all) and that was on quite thick grass. Easy 80 on the smooth stuff I think.

Would be more with the bigger 15t pinion...

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2 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

So Cody you are already eying up my 27mph Blitzer and rather than it deterring you it's made you go 'I can beat that!' 

Hmmmmm ok bring it on lol.

Regarding the trickery and cheating aspect, a lot will be down to trust so hopefully we will spot if someone took a Tamiya bodyshell and fitted it on top of a Traxxas Slash and hits 100mph... Tsk tsk not acceptable! It will be down to the keen eyed among you to recognise shock positions and chassis shapes etc to keep this Tamiya only.

As for modifications, no rules limiting home brew mods done to a Tamiya chassis. Obviously if you create something that is 2 foot in length we want to see a body off shot! If this helps more entries then it's a good thing.

New rule added - Only Tamiya bodyshells allowed - we all love box art thus we all love Tamiya shaped shells, this is a Tamiya forum so we want to see Tamiya recognisable cars. 

Question - do you guys insist on having the bodyshell fitted or can you run a topless car? This could affect aerodynamics quite a bit so I'm leaning towards having the bodyshell on... This helps keep it looking like a Tamiya too... Might add this to the rules on page 1 if it gets some support, please comment.

I'd consider allowing people to run without a shell if they want to.

For 2 reasons:

1. Some of the less race orientated cars have very expensive bodykit and people aren't going to want to trash them in a high speed rollover (For example, I don't think it would be out of the spirit of the competition to run a cod buster with a non Tamiya lexan shell, no-one is going to want to try and do 30-40mph with a Clod with a £60 bodyset on it)

2. Some cars will be limited to 2S powerpacks as that it is all that will fit under the shell. (I can just about get 3S under the gravel hound shell if I use the full length of the body posts, but if I'd cut them down when I bought the car I'd have been stuffed)

PS, my previous comment about cheating was 'tongue in cheek'. Part of the fun of doing speed runs is being able to keep up with the serious race cars with an old school Tamiya buggy. In a thread I did a few years ago 'Need help in the horsepower wars', I had a lot of fun trying to keep up with a B4 with firstly a thundershot, then a TT-01, then the gravel hound.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing anyone brave enough to try this with a 1/14 truck. I know the gearboxes are bombproof in them for lots of power, and most owners seek to slow them down from stock, so it will interesting to see if anyone goes the other way with it.

Also, is anyone going to try this with a CC-01 ?

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I'd be ok with a non Tamiya shell, but no shell would be a cop out for me, it will mean loads of cars running without shells because the wind resistance and lift from a shell is a potential limiting top speed factor and part of the fun on the more serious cars will be managing that aspect. 

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Berman I'd like to see that, love the Wild One and it's on my list to get!

I think seeing a topless car do a speed run just isn’t very fun,  it could be any old lump of plastic blowing down the road, no charm, no appeal, no imagery… just a blob.

For this reason I think the bodyshell has to be on, Non Tamiya shells will be allowed so those of you who want to preserve your expensive shell’s can.

Running with a bodyshell  will present it’s own challenges but then you can come up with your own mods if you really want to shoe horn a 3s lipo into a WR-02 chassis when it clearly won’t fit (Just zip tie it on)

If a chassis is designed only for a 2s lipo, like the DT-02, then the owner can choose to leave the battery holder off and fit a taller 3s lipo and secure it down with a home brew solution (Zip ties!) …. Then slap the bodyshll on, secure it if need be with whatever and then we all get to see a lovely Holiday Buggy (other shells are available) doing a speed run etc.

MadInventor I hear your point and here’s my take on it, If people don’t want to trash their £60 bodyshell then don’t speed run it, it’s all a free choice right? You now have the option to put a cheaper lexan shell on……. If you do want to run your hard Blitzer shell then you will get koudos from all of us this forum for sure J It’ll provide a good laugh for us if the owner is brave to run it and more so if it tumbles over… in a friendly way ofcourse J

I just realised when looking for motors for my rigs that there’s no point getting bigger can size motors because the kv rating goes down and therefore you need to run higher voltage packs. The problem with this is, picking a brushless 3670 (Instead of say, a 3650)  sized can in the 2100kv range really requires it to be run on 3s or 4s and beyond… but these big lipo packs won’t fit our Tamiya chassis lol.

Here the creative and brave among us will shine through.

Agreed that gearboxs and transmissions need to remain Tamiya, going into the rules now.

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Regarding the shell and mods issue, it sounds like a case of having different classes. Some may see the challenge in optimising a stock setup while others might enjoy seeing just how far a given chassis can be pushed using off-the-shelf hop-ups, and others might want to homebrew their own solutions from a mixture of Tamiya and home-bodged bits. Perhaps there is an argument for Stock, Modified and Unlimited classes for each vehicle type?

 

Perhaps state that Stock entries have to have the standard Tamiya shell at stock height, Modified can have any off-the-shelf shell at any height, and Unlimited can have anything (or nothing) mounted wherever?

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