Tamiya Club Official Top 10 Fastest RC'ers List

[stew_mac]

Where we go... 

Tamiya Hornet 

2wd class

goolrc 60amp esc

goolrc 4300kv motor

2s 

22t pinion 

Proline Primes

43.1mph - 69.3kph

 

[Fabia130vRS]

TAMIYA TA05 IFS / 4WD

TOP SPEED 53KPH / 32.93MPH

MOTOR: CARSON DRAGSTAR 10T SL

ESC: CARSON DRAGSTAR 10T SL 3800kV

BATTERY: NOVAK 3800mAh 55C / 110c

GEARING: PINION 22T / SPUR 70T (0.6m)

TIRES: TAMIYA SLICKS 24MM

 

This is my first speed run attempt, even thought I had it in mind for quite sme time, and did a few succecsful speed runs with mz f103 (89kph), TA05ifs (65kph) and m03 (35kph).. but got no valid videos for this entry. so this is my first

my belts are a bit loose, and it was wet, so I couldnt hit 60kph. for standard gearing ok I think.

[Jason1145]

Both you guys have nice wide open roads there begging for more speed!

Lists updated.

[emspjay]

I'm back! Everyone has been putting out some impressive speeds and videos this summer!! I have been lurking on the page all summer. I spend the summer time on my boats. My car time is the fall/winter/spring. I got the Violet Racer updated for another speed run, new Traxxas Anaconda rear tires and a smaller higher C 3s battery, along with the windows tapped over. Hope to gain a few MPH's! Should have a new video this week if the weather holds out. Below is a few pics of the new set up. I will also be trying a new run with the Pumpkin and the F104 Pro. I never even got a good baseline on the F104 last spring, will be working on that this week.

 

[Fabia130vRS]

TAMIYA M03 210mm / FWD

TOP SPEED 37kph / 23mph

MOTOR LRP GT2 RUNNER 23T BRUSHED

ESC LRP RUNNER Fast Forward + REVERSE 80A 

BATTERY 3000mAh Ni-Mh

GEARING 22T PINION / 35T (2.gear 3racing speed gear, hollow carbon gear shafts, ball bearings) (0.6M)

TIRES TAMIYA M CHASSIS RADIALS

 

 

 

[Yalson]

On 10/25/2018 at 9:23 AM, stew_mac said:

I though I might add an official entry. 

Tamyia Hornet

2wd

goolrc 60amp esc

goolrc 4300kv motor

2s 

22t pinion

proline primes

40mph - 62.3kph

 

Whoa. That is an extraordinary Hornet. Do you have any pictures of what it looks like inside?

[Yalson]

On 10/2/2018 at 9:42 AM, Andyrt200 said:

It’s taken the best part of a year to actually get my Thundershot to drive properly at speed but I finally got there last weekend!

It’s been taking a heavy pounding every session, it needed all this after the last try

Its only the blue suspension arms left from the car I started with! I was hoping the new wheels & tyres would help but as you can see from the first few clips on the video it was still bad. 

We tried running it first on the Saturday (the first clips) but decided to quit before it got broken again & concentrate on Blackfoot.

My boy was so pleased with Blackfoots run he really wanted to try Thundershot again, I’d about given up with it but luckily listen to him! So the next day he persuaded mum we should go back to the same beach. I took the high torque servo & saver out of Blackfoot & fitted those as the only play left in the steering was in the standard servo horn & saver. I also knocked up up a quick wing to try to give the rear a bit more stability, it worked a treat with a 55mph run on the first try! The only minor issue was keeping the front wheels down, but that was only when he was out running the dog! I have a bit of ally pressing the front bumper down that seems to keep the front down when you’re not accelerating too fast. It was just as well it didn’t roll, there was no way my “BluePeter” wing would have survived! 

 

Official entry:

Thunder Shot (Super Dragon body)

4x4

17t pinion 

5200kv 4 pole & GoolRC 60A esc (everything did get quite warm this time!) 

New Boomerang wheels & tyres all round. 

3s lipo

57.4mph or 92.4kph

(Previous best with 4300kv was 50.3 mph)

My boy was asking if there was a faster motor we could get as soon as we had that run in the bag! So I told him we will think about 4s over the winter...

Whoah again! That is quick as anything.

Just a couple of thoughts regarding your comments above. I am not a speed run specialist, so feel free to listen or ignore as you see fit. You may know better than me, so no offence will be taken either way. However:

1. You commented on the front lifting (and I saw it myself in the video). There are probably numerous reasons for this, but one is almost certainly that the angle of the front bumoer means it is acting like a reverse-venturi and creating lift. The best way to fix this would be to do one or more of the following: alter the stance of the car so that it is more 'nose down', replace the solid plastic bumper with an outline one (such as the one like that on the Grasshopper 1/Hornet, if you can find one which fits the chassis), or add some kind of second spoiler over the front axle. We had a very interesting discussion on the value of aerodynamics to 1:10 buggies on another thread, and although we mainly came to the conclusion that its effects were normally vastly overstated, you are running in a very specific set of circumstances, with the flat surface and exceptional speeds meaning the airflow over and under the car will start to have tangible effects on the car's behaviour. I would imagine the big spoiler you added at the back probably made a noticeable difference to both downforce and stability, but it may be contributing to your front lift issues, as the extra drag and downforce will add to the car's natural tendency to 'squat' at the rear under acceleration, making it want to rotate around the rear axle and lift the nose at the slightest provocation. There are various ways to combat this, too. I notice that the car looks quite high. I don't know how practical it would be under beach conditions, but making the car sit lower to the ground all round will lower its centre of gravity, make it handle better, reduce the likelihood of it rolling and make it less likely that the nose will lift. Stiffening the rear suspension might also help, but that would make it more oversteery, which might make rolling more likely.

2. At speeds like this, unintended consequences may start occurring from seemingly small details. I can't see exactly from the pictures, but it look like the body sits very high on the chassis, possibly leaving a gap at the front where it doesn't quite line up. At normal buggy speeds on normal buggy surfaces this would not make any difference and the aerodynamics will be very low on the list of things affecting the car's performance. At top speed in a straight line, though, that gap is going to allow air to flow into the space between the shell and the chassis at 55-odd mph, causing a lot of drag. If you could tape pver the gap, recut the shell so it sits closer to the chassis or get a different shell which does not ;eave a gap like that, then you might bump your top speed up a smidge.

3. If you were driving on tarmac then I wouldn't suggest this, but sand has a lot of give and I would imagine wet sand is probably fairly unforgiving stuff in terms of the amount of energy required to travel over it (especially when accelerating). Given that you are going for pure speed and that handling is probably a secondary consideration, have you considered running 4WD front wheels and tyres all round, or 4WD fronts on the rear and 2WD fronts on the front? This would reduce the amount of rolling resistance offered by the beach surface and would have the secondary effect of cutting your car's frontal cross section, thereby reducing aerodynamic drag. I'm not sure how much of an issue cross section is (probably not much, to be honest) but it all helps. (When the Tyrrell F1 team tried running front tyres on the rear of their car to reduce drag at the 1996 German GP, one of their drivers reckoned it might have saved a second a lap. I cannot claim it would increase your speed by anything like that much, it would probably help a little bit, more from reducing your rolling resistance than anything else. Link here. )

Good luck for next year's camapign!

[stew_mac]

[Yalson]

I never thought I'd say this about a Hornet, but that is mean.

[Jason1145]

Lists Updated

[Fabia130vRS]

17 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Lists Updated

I am with my m03 31. In RWD.

 

please correct

[Jason1145]

25 minutes ago, Fabia130vRS said:

I am with my m03 31. In RWD.

 

please correct

Brain fart 💨 😂 

Correcting now 

[Fabia130vRS]

And another RWD entry.

me and a friend got on begging of this year into f103 bashing.

after a few months we bought financially wise 50 : 50 together this F104v2 and modded it to a 1:10 ‘pan car’

TAMIYA F104v2 / RWD

TOP SPEED 82kph / 50.95mph

MOTOR: SkyRC Cheetah 13,5T Sensored

ESC: SkyRC Cheetah 60A

BATTERY: Floureon 11,1V 3s 6000mAh

GEARING: Pinion 43T / 104T Spur (0.4M)

TIRES: Rear F103, TRG rims/Pitshimizu tires, Front F104 rims/f104 soft rubber tires

this was done at 70% throttle, we hope to hit at least 110kph next time.

[Jason1145]

Lists updated

[Kingfisher]

On 11/5/2018 at 1:06 AM, Fabia130vRS said:

And another RWD entry.

 

I'm sorry, but since the GPS went flying and tumbling off of the car, doesn't that disqualify it from being an entry, just like if the car flipped as previously discussed? Also, the GPS left the frame of the camera there at the end, something I was disqualified for. @Jason1145 

[Jason1145]

I don’t think the GPS flying off the car like that gathered any centrifugal speed compared to being sat on a car slightly or majorly off the centre of gravity at the extremities where it is travelling faster than the central point.... if that makes sense again?

As for the off screen aspect... 

Thoughts guys?

@Kingfisher if you link your video it can be reviewed again 

[stew_mac]

In my opinion the gps flying out will have a greater effect on the speed not a crash. 

But the concept of a clean pass in general is a great rule. 

If you are able to reach a speed and drive the car back that’s more repeatable than going fast but uncontrollable. 

[stew_mac]

In my opinion the gps flying out will have a greater effect on the speed not a crash. 

But the concept of a clean pass in general is a great rule. 

If you are able to reach a speed and drive the car back that’s more repeatable than going fast but uncontrollable. 

[Jason1145]

19 minutes ago, stew_mac said:

In my opinion the gps flying out will have a greater effect on the speed not a crash. 

How so?

To me this makes zero sense in relation to the video in question... how can the GPS pick up more speed once it ejects itself off the car... which has obviously slowed down to eject the GPS in the first place, surely the GPS can only maintain the speed it had whilst on the car and then almost immediately start slowing down through losing momentum?

Interesting to discuss this point though and hear thoughts etc.

[Fabia130vRS]

9 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

I'm sorry, but since the GPS went flying and tumbling off of the car, doesn't that disqualify it from being an entry, just like if the car flipped as previously discussed? Also, the GPS left the frame of the camera there at the end, something I was disqualified for. @Jason1145 

It may not be a clean video. I may agree if Jason decides to disqualify this entry. Also it started from 77kmh. But the car is capable of more, so a new entry should be soon.

aaand a non tamiya entry!

 

Losi 1:24 Short Course Truck Brushless

TOP SPEED 30kph / 18.65mph

MOTOR stock 8765kV

ESC stock integrated

BATTERY 7.4V 200mAh

TIRES micro all terrain 

 

[stew_mac]

The GPS calculates its speed via its position. If you have rapid changes in direction this could effect the speed. 

Not that I’m an expert in GPS just my understanding.

[Fabia130vRS]

Yes, but 82kmh is a normal speed for this car and even slow. I will update this speed in a week or so.

[Fabia130vRS]

On 10/27/2018 at 3:20 PM, Fabia130vRS said:

TAMIYA TA05 IFS / 4WD

TOP SPEED 53KPH / 32.93MPH

MOTOR: CARSON DRAGSTAR 10T SL

ESC: CARSON DRAGSTAR 10T SL 3800kV

BATTERY: NOVAK 3800mAh 55C / 110c

GEARING: PINION 22T / SPUR 70T (0.6m)

TIRES: TAMIYA SLICKS 24MM

 

This is my first speed run attempt, even thought I had it in mind for quite sme time, and did a few succecsful speed runs with mz f103 (89kph), TA05ifs (65kph) and m03 (35kph).. but got no valid videos for this entry. so this is my first

my belts are a bit loose, and it was wet, so I couldnt hit 60kph. for standard gearing ok I think.

To update this TA05 IFS, a 25T Pinion is now installed with standard 70T spur, I would have in the mail these next days a 64P 40T pinion and 80T spur.

TAMIYA TA05 IFS / 4WD

TOP SPEED 60kph / 37.28mph

MOTOR: CARSON DRAGSTAR 10T SL 3800kV

ESC: CARSON DRAGSTAR 10T SL 

BATTERY: Turningy Nanotec 6600mAh 65/130C 2s

GEARING: PINION 25T / SPUR 70T (0.6m)

TIRES: TAMIYA SLICKS 24MM

 

[Wooders28]

On 11/6/2018 at 10:09 PM, Jason1145 said:

Interesting to discuss this point though and hear thoughts etc.

Imo,  a GPS meter flying off and breaking when it hits the ground will have a greater chance of a false reading, not because of acceleration or signal interference, (when a car crashes it looses pace etc too?),but from just sensitive electronics taking a beating, I recon I could get a fairly unbeatable ,888kph with enough bouncing of the meter down the road.

With the skyrc GPS looking to take it's readings over a 10 meter distance (ish - looking at the data via the computer and Google maps overlay), it would need to sustain the speed over that 10 meter distance to register, so , I doubt you would get a false reading with a crash IF the meter isn't damaged. 

All in all, I'd go with a , "clean pass" , rule, just to omit any confusion.

[Jason1145]

Right clean pass rule from now on!