Would this widen the track (width) on a CC-01?

[Jason1145]

Would these widen the track by 20mm at each hub? Making the total track 40mm wider than stock?

 I can't quite get my head around how they would fit if that is the point of them?

How would the wheel nut attach once fitted? Actually, how do they fit?

Arrrggghhhhhhh!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-CC01-AXIAL-AX10-SCX10-Hex-Coupler-20MM-RC-Car-4X-Aluminum-12MM-HEX-Drive-/172348746933?hash=item2820c92cb5:g:jYUAAOSwNRdX4TcY

[Nitomor]

Yes they would widen the track 40mm overall using the same wheels. By spacing the wheels out through extending the hex along the threaded portion of the axle then using the barrel nut to secure the wheel. I used Junfac ones on my 4x4x4...I used them so that I could correct the original offset when using alternative wheels.

ps. That looks a good price.

[Jason1145]

That picture has me more confused lol! How on earth do they fit again?

If you then use the barrel nut to secure the wheel (Instead of the usual flanged wheel locking nut?) - but the barrel nut looks like it has such a small surface contact area, much smaller then a flanged wheel locking nut? Does it hold the wheel on as well as the locking nut?

Does my question make sense?

[Mad Ax]

OK, so the big black hex bit fits in place of the stock plastic hex on your standard Tamiya.  The kit kindly includes a new drive pin but your standard drive pins will be fine also, so ignore that part for now.

The wheel goes onto the end of the black hex part, so the wheel now sits further out from the chassis.

Now you'll find the thread on your axle isn't long enough to go past the end of the wheel, so: the barrel nut goes on the outside of the wheel in place of your regular wheelnut.  There is usually a spring washer and a flat washer in the Junfac kit, I'm not sure if that kit also includes them - they give a wider contact area on the outside face of the wheel.  I wouldn't want to fit them without washers, it will probably mark the wheel.

I've got a couple of sets of these and they work well if you need a wider stance for stability or if you need the wheels to clear arches / chassis etc. on a customised model, or if you just want to make it look chunkier.  There are the following drawbacks:

The front wheels will now go more "forwardsey / backey" when you steer.  This might mean they catch parts of the chassis or body on full lock that they didn't catch before.  It might also look a bit lame depending on what shell you have.  Your steering servo will now by fighting more leverage from the ground so steering may be less precise unless you have a high-torque servo and servo saver.

The barrel nuts lack a nylock section to lock them in place, so they can come undone, especially on faster models.  A bit of threadlock will stop that.  Not too much tho, you want to be able to get them off eventually  

If you're doing lots of jumps, the extra leverage can bend the axle stub.  My King Blackfoot wheels now wobble something terrible thanks to using these!  Probably won't be an issue on a slower car like a CC01 unless you're jumping it really hard.

[Nitomor]

The Junfac ones have spring washers, I've not had a problem with them backing out. I did need to drill a slightly larger centre hole (about 1mm oversize) in my wheel to accept the barrel nut. The barrel nut holds the wheel on by gripping the stub axle, the threads of which are now recessed into the hex adapter, which the barrel nut sinks into and grips.

[Jason1145]

Ah I see said the blind man..... got it now.... couldn't figure it out until I placed (in my mind) a washer of some sort under the lock nut to give it some width to grip the wheel.

Cheers guys, I've ordered a set.