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howaboutme

My Black Hot Shot Re-Re Build

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Progressing along.

Drilling the first 2 holes were stressful. Just the "what ifs" because this is my only HS. For me, the drilling was not clean at all. It wasn't a clean cut hole all the way through. As you can see from the pictures below, there are shards left over on the outside from me needing to tear off the remnants after the drill did it's thing. I am certain it doesn't affect performance but still not very clean. I will stress that this could be user error. We'll see when I do the rear gear box.

About 3/4 of the way through:

fsjKJ7M.jpg

Here you can see the imperfections of my particular drilling. It's not clean and requires some extracurricular movements to get the piece off.

M2aFksk.jpg

Here it is w/ the new outdrives in.

dMbu2R0.jpg

I may go back and clean up the openings a bit (or not).

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Because of the way the HS is built, I now have to determine the electronics so I can close up the box and start to put this baby back together before I shift to the suspension upgrade.

I cleared out the old TBLE-02S and unattached the received to play w/ layout. I had an old HW Justock XR10 laying around that I hoped to use to help. This is what I think will work:

vWoremR.jpg

I will attach the receiver to the wall thereby leaving enough room for the ESC and a ton of wiring for the brushless system. This also leaves some room to circulate air. Because the box is enclosed and I don't want to poke holes, I will need to use an ESC with a fan to help w/ cooling. Unfortunately, when dry fitting, I realized that the motor wires are too short to directly solder to the motor. I'll use this ESC for another build and likely order a new one with fresh wire lengths. This will also help me figure out length for the battery wire too. Flexibility is key here.

In addition to an ESC, I'll go ahead and order some 0.6 mod pinions to replace the stock. I'll likely mash the stock ones like potatoes w/ the brushless system so going w/ an upgrade will be worth it. I think I"ll start w/ 15T with the 13.5T motor shown in the photo and see where we end up. I typically like to solder bullets onto the battery connectors but I don't think it'll work here. I will likely use XT60's. Still to figure out is what battery fits? Maybe go w/ a shorty and build a battery plate to help secure it. TBD.

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More progress! But first, I realized that the HS is not mod 0.6 but 32p so off with another order. I'll either put the wrong pinion back on the bay or keep.

Front top and bottom damper stays are in!

tOgAJ8P.jpg

So far, I've used spares (granted, only 6 screws and 2 washers) and hoping that is the case moving forward but I think I'm going to have trouble in this area:

image.thumb.png.15f841198a987fc46a26be27982ff398.png

I don't think I have BB14 or BB10 laying around or any of the spacers needed for the shocks....I may need to source a parts bag.

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More progress:

I got my steel pinions so that allowed me to put the gigantic motor in and attach the rear gearbox to the chassis:

cfw3HUl.jpg

As you can see from the above and below picture, the tie rods for the rear stabilizer rod is very close and in some cases rubbing against the motor. That's obviously something I don't want. I think I'll take the stabilizer out assuming there is no function to it?

DAKMxb5.jpg

This 13.5T motor looks huge. I will have to figure out wiring.

I also received my ESC and hope to make some sense to this box shortly:

bLUX4KX.jpg

For sure I will have to Dremel a bigger access hole for the 3 motor wires, sensor wire and the antenna. Wiring will be a challenge. I have issues at the motor tabs too as they are very close to the wheels.

Waiting on more hardware/screws to continue the suspension upgrades.

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One of the things annoying about these types of chassis is that you have to be all done with your electronics, settings and all, before you enclose the electronics box. I don't have everything I need to do that yet so I can't really finish this update just yet. But I did secure both the receiver and the ESC. It's tight but more than enough room for the wires and enough room for me to pull the ESC wire for programming later. I did dremel the hole facing the motor to allow for the 3 motor wires, the sensor, receiver antenna and the switch to exit out. The key here is to make the hole large enough so the wires don't bind but not too large so it allows bad stuff to get in. I mean, that's why Tamiya designed these enclosed chassis, right?

mwJbqg2.jpg

The Hobbywing switch obviously doesn't fit in the originally designed location (I was secretly hoping it would) so it has to go outside on the side.

440Hzaj.jpg

I was disappointed that I had to order extra hardware/screws (expensive), etc but they arrived so I could proceed on the shock upgrades. The rear tower is now in. Again, was hoping to keep the fake heat sinks but oh well.

nrdAXSJ.jpg

cBhEucf.jpg

I will eventually change to hex wheels. The kit wheels will get torn up w/ the brushless power, I'm sure.

I still need to figure out battery. I think I'm going to get this: https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-2s-100c-sigraphene-hv-lipo-stick-pack-tcs-battery-7.6v-5000mah-ptk-5129-19/p942346

I haven't checked the fitment but it's supposed to fit. I like the 100C, will give the car some extra juice. I will change the to an XT60 though. Since I don't have another 2C battery w/ an XT60 plug, I will wait to do the ESC programming until I do so it can be powered up.

Next step: Gmade shock assembly.

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On 6/30/2020 at 5:15 AM, howaboutme said:

More progress:

I got my steel pinions so that allowed me to put the gigantic motor in and attach the rear gearbox to the chassis:

cfw3HUl.jpg

As you can see from the above and below picture, the tie rods for the rear stabilizer rod is very close and in some cases rubbing against the motor. That's obviously something I don't want. I think I'll take the stabilizer out assuming there is no function to it?

Could you not trim the sway bar down so the links sit more vertically and clear the motor?

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2 hours ago, Falcon#5 said:

Could you not trim the sway bar down so the links sit more vertically and clear the motor?

Yes, that is an option.

Side note. Once I put the cage on and secured the bar into that, it gave a bit more room between link and motor. After thinking about this, I will want to keep the bar so will make adjustments as necessary. Thanks!

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Shocks built!

EWbIQBf.jpg

T4fyqxo.jpg

Despite knowing there may be binding using the gmade shock caps as others have already stated, I wanted to build them as intended first. Mostly because they look pretty awesome and second so I can see for myself depending on how I install them. I do have the Tamiya 50950 for when switching the rear and front eyelets.

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I had some momentum so I continued. Front shocks are in!

I realized that I already have what is needed from 50950 because it is included in the CVA shock kit for the TT-02 54753. 

For the front, I used the spacers from 50950/54753 and the typical screw/nut for the top and same minus the spaces for the bottom. It fits pretty well.

cKsRPq6.jpg

Good clearance at the top w/ the spacers. It is tight between the springs and the front stabilizer rods though. I will have to keep an eye out.

KwcwdU5.jpg

 

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Rear shocks in!

I did use the long eyelets from 50950. Fits great.

HVt6okZ.jpg

R2Arx1H.jpg

Did some preliminary wire management and realized that the motor tabs are still a bit too far away for the wire length. So I decided to turn it 180 but in doing so the tabs are now on the lower part closest to the battery.

Ss2tTAH.jpg

I'm waiting on my battery before continuing so not sure what I'm going to do.

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Got my battery today! I chose to go with this because of the size and price. It's as close to the Nimh as I can get w/o getting products from all around the world. Plus, already having an XT-60 is a big bonus. 1 less soldering exercise to do. 20C is nothing to die for but for this purpose, likely fine.

Some comparisons:

Venom is just a bit longer.

4XctprG.jpg

Thickness is pretty similar.

7UrrrHh.jpg

It fits!

0L7OxQ1.jpg

It does stretch the brackets at the ends a tiny bit but the battery "strap" does close though I am not showing it here. Not liking the motor wire tabs though...

GG6fxzu.jpg

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5 hours ago, howaboutme said:

Got my battery today! I chose to go with this because of the size and price. It's as close to the Nimh as I can get w/o getting products from all around the world. Plus, already having an XT-60 is a big bonus. 1 less soldering exercise to do. 20C is nothing to die for but for this purpose, likely fine.

Some comparisons:

Venom is just a bit longer.

4XctprG.jpg

Thickness is pretty similar.

7UrrrHh.jpg

It fits!

0L7OxQ1.jpg

It does stretch the brackets at the ends a tiny bit but the battery "strap" does close though I am not showing it here. Not liking the motor wire tabs though...

GG6fxzu.jpg

Venom measurements are 💩. The listed measurements have it being shorter than a standard nimh pack and it’s longer by probably 10mm 

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9 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

Venom measurements are 💩. The listed measurements have it being shorter than a standard nimh pack and it’s longer by probably 10mm 

Yes, you're right. The specs say 132mm long and I just measured approximately 136.5/137mm. It's still shorter than some of the others so I can't complain too much. Luckily, things should work out alright.

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4 hours ago, howaboutme said:

Yes, you're right. The specs say 132mm long and I just measured approximately 136.5/137mm. It's still shorter than some of the others so I can't complain too much. Luckily, things should work out alright.

Mine is 140! I asked venum and they said they changed factories and measurements can vary but by 8mm?!! Cmon lol

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Trim the battery wires and soldered the XT60 onto it. Then proceeded to program the ESC. Although the photo doesn't show it, I connect it my computer to do it.

MKAOHxF.jpg

Once I got the ESC programmed, I can officially close the case up and add back the front bumper:

AlaNS6Q.jpg

I will tackle connecting the motor next.....

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Well, I made a mess of soldering the wires onto the motor recently. The solder went from one tab to another and I couldn't easily get it off so I had to order a solder wick/remover to help suck the extra up. Once done, I finally was able to get the three wires on. It's still tight w/ the battery but I was able to shim the battery closer to the front to leave some room between the battery and the tabs. Not great, I know. I still need to do some wire management, trim the body a bit to accept the new on/off switch but it's close to done.

NYu6icT.jpg

I did run it on the stand and slowly inside and it works fine. I will not dare to run it outside w/ the kit tires and are still looking to replace them (at least for running) with contemporary hex wheels/tires with inserts. Once I get those sorted, I will post up. I'm already looking for the next project even if this is not 100% done yet. :lol:

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Last 2 photos w/ the body and wing on:

XZ2QIOG.jpg

1pp1TZW.jpg

I definitely could have done a few things better but all in all, a good time and worth the effort. This will be put away for a bit before I return to put hex wheels on and have it a go outside.

Until then, next project:

ndOw1Zx.jpg

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Quite a journey your Hot Shot has been on!! Cool transformation at the end too. Makes me wish I still had mine from the 80's... Live and learn.

You should really like the Racing Fighter!! It's on one of the better non-TRF Chassis.

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