MIP ORV Ball Diff, What is next?

[Pintopower]

Now that we are so close to the MIP ball diff hitting the presales numbers, I have been tasked to see what upgrades they need. Comically, Tamiya USA called and said sales of the Blackfoot and Monster Beetle spiked this morning (your welcome). Apart from vomiting a Christmas wanted list at MIP, I have decided to get your opinions. Since the diff will be permanently solved, what other aspects of the ORV are irritating? I for one can not wait to head out to the track for a full day of driving and taking home a still working car but I know the ORV cars could still use some upgrades. I am just blown away that a company has finally listened to us. I am surprised I am not on the blocked caller list with how often I have annoyed them for the better part of a decade. Better late than never. 

[VagabondStarJXF]

A 4WD system for the ORV. Could they do that at a reasonable price?

[chazekxt]

thank u pinto for all your hard work.

[Pablo68]

Well done Pinto and well done MIP. I ordered one this morning.

For the ORV I dunno, I think the front suspension needs something.

I guess you wouldn't want it to be too far away from the original design, but a set up with a bit more movement in it and adjustable camber?

There is a lot of play in the front set up too and I think a more solid version of the uprights......blue skying here

[waterbok]

 C.R.P did some fine hopups for the ORV chassis but thats more in the plastic range, not metal or gears, I believe

[Dangerseeker]

Telescopic shafts, like the ones produced by Thorpe would be nice, although everyone, who ordered the MIP ball diff will install the Frog Unis, so why go for the telescopic shafts then?

[kontemax]

Aluminum alloy cnc machined thick side plates for the ORV transmission, with slippery clutch, 0,6 gear module and telescopic CVD axles.

 

Max

[Frog Jumper]

My Frog Jumper Wish List:

1. Improve Front A-Arms, knuckles, and axles.  Take out the slop and bump-steer, etc...
2. Combined MSC plate/Servo Holder/Center Steering Plate, to replace the current MSC plate, servo spanners, and way-too-forward Brat or SBF Center Steering plate.
3. Longer Front Skid plate that fills in the hole between the battery door and the original Frog or CRP skid plate.  Somehow work in a replacement for the H-Piece???  After some thought, I just want a new H-Piece - one that has a bottom plate that fills in that hole.  Maybe with some kind of "lip" that overlaps the standard front skid plate so there is no gap...
4. *dreaming* Aluminum body kit.  Flat panels, nothing fancy...  Just want it shiny...  Wing too please...

Terry

 

[Pintopower]

On November 16, 2016 at 4:57 PM, VagabondStarJXF said:

A 4WD system for the ORV. Could they do that at a reasonable price?

Ohhhhhhh....I love that. I know they were talking about the 4wd RC10 and SRB on Friday when I was there....

On November 16, 2016 at 6:21 PM, chazekxt said:

thank u pinto for all your hard work.

Well thank me when we get the diff! Right now I am freaking out posting and probably getting banned from forums. Haha!

On November 16, 2016 at 10:16 PM, Pablo68 said:

Well done Pinto and well done MIP. I ordered one this morning.

For the ORV I dunno, I think the front suspension needs something.

I guess you wouldn't want it to be too far away from the original design, but a set up with a bit more movement in it and adjustable camber?

There is a lot of play in the front set up too and I think a more solid version of the uprights......blue skying here

Thank you! We talked about a better front end. I think that is a very good start.

On November 16, 2016 at 7:08 AM, waterbok said:

 C.R.P did some fine hopups for the ORV chassis but thats more in the plastic range, not metal or gears, I believe

They have all my CRP stuff right now so it is all on the table. They want to do a counter gear, but not just the gear, an entire slipper clutch. 

On November 16, 2016 at 10:22 AM, Dangerseeker said:

Telescopic shafts, like the ones produced by Thorpe would be nice, although everyone, who ordered the MIP ball diff will install the Frog Unis, so why go for the telescopic shafts then?

Yup, my thoughts exactly. I suspect to be just  that much better maybe? I think a slipper would be best. 

On November 16, 2016 at 0:59 PM, kontemax said:

Aluminum alloy cnc machined thick side plates for the ORV transmission, with slippery clutch, 0,6 gear module and telescopic CVD axles.

 

Max

Would machined plates be needed with a ball diff installed? Are you thinking that the Slipper would need that? Any luck in the Italian forums?

On November 16, 2016 at 2:53 PM, Frog Jumper said:

My Frog Jumper Wish List:

1. Improve Front A-Arms, knuckles, and axles.  Take out the slop and bump-steer, etc...
2. Combined MSC plate/Servo Holder/Center Steering Plate, to replace the current MSC plate, servo spanners, and way-too-forward Brat or SBF Center Steering plate.
3. Longer Front Skid plate that fills in the hole between the battery door and the original Frog or CRP skid plate.  Somehow work in a replacement for the H-Piece???  After some thought, I just want a new H-Piece - one that has a bottom plate that fills in that hole.  Maybe with some kind of "lip" that overlaps the standard front skid plate so there is no gap...
4. *dreaming* Aluminum body kit.  Flat panels, nothing fancy...  Just want it shiny...  Wing too please...

Terry

 

1. What do you have against bump steer? LOL. I have a knuckle designed for that.

2. Is centered steering that much better? My KBF is worse than my BF. Maybe one with ball bearing steering like the old MIP RC10 ones...OHHHH!

3. I am working on that myself

4. Oh that would be nice!

[Pintopower]

So I was at MIP Friday going over the numbers on the ball diff. So far they were at 110 in 4 days of sales. 80% to Europe and the rest are to the US. Zero to Japan. Does anyone know any Japanese forums as well as someone to break the language barrier? I think that would be awesome. They are having a meeting at Tamiya America to get the diff bundles with the new kits so if that works out, this could explode!

[kontemax]

I believe that the aluminum thicker plates will help to keep the gears firmly in place, make a stronger rear end and you can have a slippery clutch with an external adjusting spring and nut on the left side. And at the end they will be cool, red anodized.

Another great optional would be a 4 mm passing steel axle for the rear trailing arms with 4mm flanged nuts on the extremities, alloy (or strong plastic) trailing arms with ball bearings on the pivots, the possibility to enlarge the width of the rear end of the model as desired with spacers (telescopic axles will do their job) and a couple of degrees of negative camber and toe in to add stability, CVD telescopic axles with CVD movement on both sides, inner and outer.

At the end, longer and stronger front arms to enlarge the front end width also.

Kontemax Racing Company would make this.

 

Max

[Pintopower]

2 hours ago, kontemax said:

I believe that the aluminum thicker plates will help to keep the gears firmly in place, make a stronger rear end and you can have a slippery clutch with an external adjusting spring and nut on the left side. And at the end they will be cool, red anodized.

Another great optional would be a 4 mm passing steel axle for the rear trailing arms with 4mm flanged nuts on the extremities, alloy (or strong plastic) trailing arms with ball bearings on the pivots, the possibility to enlarge the width of the rear end of the model as desired with spacers (telescopic axles will do their job) and a couple of degrees of negative camber and toe in to add stability, CVD telescopic axles with CVD movement on both sides, inner and outer.

At the end, longer and stronger front arms to enlarge the front end width also.

Kontemax Racing Company would make this.

 

Max

Haha! Kontemax Racing Company? Ill take a couple. The machined plates may be how a slipper would need to be installed. I think you are on the right path with your ideas. 

[kontemax]

Kontemax Racing Company is one of my unrealized dreams.

:'-(

The path could be right, not sure about the fund rising to find the money for the Company, ahahah!

Anyway I spoke about the MIP on the forums and the Facebook pages. I had been out of home these days so I will check tomorrow what happened concerning comments and answers. 110 in one week is no bad.

I yet not ordered mine because I've not the credit card and I don't know how I can do it.

6:00 AM, time to go to sleep.

Cheers

Max

[Pablo68]

Just touching on center mounting the steering servo on an ORV.
I have done it to my MB and I think it's quite an improvement. Having said that the servo is a good quality unit (bluebird, metal geared) and I also have a good quality servo saver in there. That and the TRF shocks I use, makes all the difference.

I only ever drove my re-re MB stock once or twice.

There was a guy on here who was doing runs of an aluminium set up for center mounting the steering servo......can't remember who though.

 

[Frog Jumper]

6 hours ago, Pablo68 said:

Just touching on center mounting the steering servo on an ORV.
I have done it to my MB and I think it's quite an improvement. Having said that the servo is a good quality unit (bluebird, metal geared) and I also have a good quality servo saver in there. That and the TRF shocks I use, makes all the difference.

I only ever drove my re-re MB stock once or twice.

There was a guy on here who was doing runs of an aluminium set up for center mounting the steering servo......can't remember who though.

 

Going back to my interest in center steering...  

I too have found that it makes a marked improvement.  That said, I wouldn't object to mounting the servo in an off-set position if it would accommodate bell-crank steering...

Terry

 

[Pablo68]

28 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

Going back to my interest in center steering...  

I too have found that it makes a marked improvement.  That said, I wouldn't object to mounting the servo in an off-set position if it would accommodate bell-crank steering...

Terry

 

I have often ruminated on doing that myself Terry. Would be interesting to work it out.
Would/Should do a lot to eliminate bump steer too.

[Finman]

The centre mount for the steering servo is on Shapeways 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GW7R69S6V/tamiya-blackfoot-center-steering-ver-1?optionId=60435430

 

 

[kontemax]

Why search for the "center mounting" when you can have a "full cranks steering linkages?"

Max

[Frog Jumper]

59 minutes ago, Finman said:

The centre mount for the steering servo is on Shapeways 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GW7R69S6V/tamiya-blackfoot-center-steering-ver-1?optionId=60435430

 

 

This is the Center Mount plate I use...  Works great IMO...

Terry

 

[Pintopower]

4 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

This is the Center Mount plate I use...  Works great IMO...

Terry

 

I will need to try this. I added it to my cart. 

5 hours ago, kontemax said:

Why search for the "center mounting" when you can have a "full cranks steering linkages?"

Max

I think cost is an issue. A central mount will make this cheaper than lots of additional parts and the possible need for bearings. 

[Frog Jumper]

44 minutes ago, Pintopower said:

I will need to try this. I added it to my cart. 

Actually I think the guy took my recommendation and made it about 7mm longer than his v1.0 plates (of which I have a couple).  I wanted to fill in the gap between the MSC Plate and the top of this Center Plate.  I also wanted to move the servo back slightly to make the angle to the knuckles better...  I never did get a v2.0 plate with my recommendations, so I'm not sure if it works better than the v1.0 or not...

46 minutes ago, Pintopower said:

I think cost is an issue. A central mount will make this cheaper than lots of additional parts and the possible need for bearings. 

IMO, design a plate around an existing Tamiya bell-crank system that will fit (if you can)...  I'm not sure "cost" is an issue - you have people ordering multiple Diffs...  What's another $xxx for "good" steering?!?

Thanks for indulging me, BTW!

Terry

 

 

[Pintopower]

1 minute ago, Frog Jumper said:

Actually I think the guy took my recommendation and made it about 7mm longer than his v1.0 plates (of which I have a couple).  I wanted to fill in the gap between the MSC Plate and the top of this Center Plate.  I also wanted to move the servo back slightly to make the angle to the knuckles better...  I never did get a v2.0 plate with my recommendations, so I'm not sure if it works better than the v1.0 or not...

IMO, design a plate around an existing Tamiya bell-crank system that will fit (if you can)...  I'm not sure "cost" is an issue - you have people ordering multiple Diffs...  What's another $xxx for "good" steering?!?

Thanks for indulging me, BTW!

Terry

 

 

Haha, yeah I ordered 10 diffs. I have 6 orv's so you may be right. 

[Frog Jumper]

Just now, Pintopower said:

Haha, yeah I ordered 10 diffs. I have 6 orv's so you may be right. 

Here is a pix of my Jumper's Center Plate, spray-painted black...

http://jpegbay.com/gallery/005168334-.html#3

Terry

 

[Pintopower]

quite nice. I run dual servos in all of my bigwheel cars since, well, why not. This will be nice in my KBF considering how awful the stock set up is. 

[Frog Jumper]

9 minutes ago, Pintopower said:

quite nice. I run dual servos in all of my bigwheel cars since, well, why not. This will be nice in my KBF considering how awful the stock set up is. 

Yeah, I ditched the same KBF center steering system in my Bushy D for this center plate...  

How do you do dual servos???  I take it one pushes right and one pushes left???  

Terry