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kontemax

Egress Jamie Booth's Replica

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1 minute ago, magpie said:

20180924_195016[1].jpg

sorry about the dust,been laying,can you see slot where shell slides through just above diff housing.my shocks just touch the moldings.

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Kontemax, in what way are they touching stuff?

Believe it or not but I've actually raced my JB replica Egress (indoors) successfully now! It was a pretty long way to get there though. I think I've had all possible issues there could be in the front end - most of them not down to the kit itself, there are however lots of compromises that stems from the overall concept. Tolerances are really slim, in all areas. I did a shortened build thread on rc10talk.com, perhaps I'll replicate it here as well. It's here; 

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=43438&p=493267#p493267


also have a few videos from the race in there as well. Despite all the issues I've had I had a great time running it. Took TQ and won all three A-finals. 

 

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Also, regarding arms - why are you trying to replicate them, is there some aspect you want to change? Everybody of us who got kits can buy original replacement arms from Full Option. I don't believe it's needed for the actual durability of the arms as such, but the threads are a bit sensitive. I bought an extra set which I haven't had to use yet.

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On 9/29/2018 at 1:17 PM, pUs said:

Also, regarding arms - why are you trying to replicate them, is there some aspect you want to change? Everybody of us who got kits can buy original replacement arms from Full Option. I don't believe it's needed for the actual durability of the arms as such, but the threads are a bit sensitive. I bought an extra set which I haven't had to use yet.

Would you sell them ?

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On 9/24/2018 at 10:12 PM, kontemax said:

My dampers touch so badly that I can't fix them to the arms.

Max

Do you know what the REAR uprights are from in this Tamiya image ??

B63685EF-390C-43E5-A7FC-FAF1A03EA6EB.png

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7 hours ago, Trecmanic2 said:

Do you know what the REAR uprights are from in this Tamiya image ??

B63685EF-390C-43E5-A7FC-FAF1A03EA6EB.png

Some sort of Dyna Storm, Dyna Blaster, TR-15T, Super Astute uprights but in red.

Max

 

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On 9/1/2019 at 5:45 PM, Trecmanic2 said:

Do you know what the REAR uprights are from in this Tamiya image ??

B63685EF-390C-43E5-A7FC-FAF1A03EA6EB.png

Yes indeed, they are red Super Astute hubs. Never released as spares or in any kits. As far as I know only made it to a few factory drivers. I am actually the owner of that particular car in the pic nowadays. When time permits I will sort them all out and try to document all versions a bit better.

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I am hanging on this old thread.

Friend gave me a Full Option kit and his old 1st release Egress to built for him. I dont get two points till now:

1) The steering is blocked by front CVDs. I can barely move the front knuckles, just a bit "left to rigth".  The CVDs from the built Egress are the same as rear. On Jamies riginal they have one ring, meaning Dyna/Astute ones. But they are even longer. Also how do I get this much linear play on the knuckles/cvd ends? 1.2mm spacer : (

jbegress_01.jpg

jbegress_02.jpg

jbegress_06.jpg

 

At the original the knuckles are a bit more cutted, but still the one I built get stopped by the C-hubs.

20140731_234835_zpsywec5q0s.jpg

20140731_234927_zps6msi8qet.jpg

 

 

Holes issue on upper & lower deck:

jbegress_03.jpg

jbegress_04.jpg

jbegress_05.jpg

Hmmm. No. Why does the replica chassis this drill not matching to the upper deck?

All help welcome, more questions later for shure : )

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hello

          i had to use other cvd shafts,and used old top deck as well just filed the hole,1754375385_20220113_2217241.thumb.jpg.a45112ee3356d5478818d2f571cf025e.jpg

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How great that there are two holes but no space between. -_-

@magpie Can you remember which CDVs you used or which lenght?

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i think they were more modern version for egress can not remember if tamiya or not,97mm total length,57mm pin to pin in cv joint 24mm cv joint pin to pin for hex drive

20220113_231804[1].jpg

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Looks like the one for Re-Edition 2013 Egress. Manual shows this style of CVDs.

But how did they made it on the original then? Looks like they had even the longer ones (one ring). But they have the identical front part which takes the bearings/wheels., so still the question of the much play/offset to the e-clip.

I checked all outdrives and I put all of them to their correct postition.

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On 9/29/2018 at 6:49 PM, pUs said:

Kontemax, in what way are they touching stuff?

They touch on the lower arms.
I got bored by the kit and stopped the build several time ago.
I also gave up with the hobby cause the lack of money and time.
All the parts lie semi assembled in their box, waiting for better times.
Max

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On 3/23/2016 at 11:46 AM, LongRat said:

At least one person has built theirs.

One thing that was discovered is that the c-hubs need some modification to allow the use of original CV shafts. They work as supplied with re-re drive shafts. On Jamie's car the slots in the c-hubs where the shaft passes through had been ground with a chamfer on the outer edge (a little bit of TRF pit-lane butchery in reality) to allow the yokes of the shafts to clear. Anyone looking to use original shafts will have to make this small mod to the c-hubs with a Dremel, etc.

Found the 18 page long thread now... Lot of answers.

Yes, the kit seems to have some unwanted features but anyway, it provides blue arms and aluminum parts.

Still want to know, why and how made they fit the 1 ring CVDs to the front drive at the original... :blink:

 

5 hours ago, kontemax said:

I also gave up with the hobby cause the lack of money and time.

You are quiet active here for giving up your hobby :P

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@LongRat May I involve you into this topic please? I still have to go through the other 18page thread. Would be great to have a near as possible replica of the original.

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