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Hello! ...I have a question about connection receiver and ESC...if I understand correctly in CH1 on receiver is connected steering servo, on CH2 is connected ESC...the plug under name battery stay empty? ...or I need also to separately power the receiver? ...thanks.

 

Zajeta slika.PNG

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That is correct, yes. Assuming either the ESC or receiver have BEC capabilities, you don't need a separate power source. The RX draws power from the ESC as shown in your diagram.

 

If however there is no BEC in either the RX or ESC, or the servo draws more power than the built-in BEC can provide, then an external BEC is a good idea.

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All good advice here but going right back to the first posting I do think that a 4000kv motor in a TL01 (especially with stock differentials) is going to be far too much power for the chassis to handle effectively.  It will be pretty nasty to drive, been there and done it with a 13.5t brushless setup and it was horrible.  

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Hello! ...I have a question about charging lipo Turnigy nano-tech 2S2P 4200mAh battery 40C-80C with quite commonly used charger Turnigy Accucell S60:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-4200mah-2s2p-40-80c-hardcase-stick-pack.html

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-eu-plug.html


- charging parameters: Lipo balance charge – current value 4.2A (calculate 1C X 4200mA = 4.2A) voltage 7.4V (calculate 2 cells X 3.7V/cell nominal voltage = 7.4V) number of cells 2S (I have actualy 4 cells but they are paralell wired...so at the end the setup is 2S) ...is this OK? ...basicly it is the same setup like for 2S1P type of battery?
- about safety settings...end or final voltage is 8.4V 2S (calculate max charge voltage 4.2V/cell X 2 cells = 8.4V)?
- safety timer...how can I calculate the right time of charging?
- capacity cut-off...this is basicly the battery capacity so the setup will be 4200mAh?
- How to properly connect Balance Plug JST-XH...on battery I have 3 pins plug...on charger I have 5 pins plug...it is correct marked on picture below?


- at the end of use I just make a lipo storage mode and the settings are...current value 4.2A voltage will be in that case 7.6V 2S (calculate storage voltage 3.8V/cell X 2 cells)...is this ok?

- why is usefull a discarge function?

- ESC voltage cut off...available setup on program card hobby king 60A are: 3.0 3.2 and 3.4V/cell which one do you recommend? ...how is this work...the car just stop when reach the setup voltage?

Thanks guys for answers...I never charge lipo battery before...so it is nice to hear some advice form experts.

Plug.png

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After all motor upgrades you may consider replacing the C-hubs on your TL-01. If you replace the standard C-hubs for TB-01 C-hubs your TL-01 chassis will be much more stable and at last will run in a straight line. The standard C-hubs have a negative angle which makes the chassis really nervous.

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6 hours ago, No Slack said:

After all motor upgrades you may consider replacing the C-hubs on your TL-01. If you replace the standard C-hubs for TB-01 C-hubs your TL-01 chassis will be much more stable and at last will run in a straight line. The standard C-hubs have a negative angle which makes the chassis really nervous.

I'm assuming this is for the standard arm tl01 and tl01bs correct?

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Hello! ...I bought and already install ESC hobbyking 60A with sensored brushless combo motor type 8.5T 4000kV on my TL01 chassis...I have some issues with calibration...here are my questions:
- first I have a little old transmitter and receiver it is possible that this old "equipement" is not compatible with this ESC?

Acoms Techniplus AP-202/40

Transmitter:  AP-202/40

Receiver:  AR-221/40


- I am not very familiar with some expresions in instructions...meaning of EPA/ATV value? ...which position is "set the throttle trim to 0"...ABS function? ...direction of the throttle channel to REV? ...my setup is like on the picture below...is this ok?
- have anyone some good instructions about ESC calibrating because the manuals form hobbyking are not good.

Thanks for help!

Radio controller.png

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Hello!
Some idea how to solve the battery compartment problem on TL01 chassis...I don't think that there will be some major problem with chassis balance...the carrier for battery weighs about 33g and 2S2P lipo battery 230g...need to test but it does not look bad :)

 

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On ‎26‎/‎12‎/‎2016 at 2:15 PM, No Slack said:

After all motor upgrades you may consider replacing the C-hubs on your TL-01. If you replace the standard C-hubs for TB-01 C-hubs your TL-01 chassis will be much more stable and at last will run in a straight line. The standard C-hubs have a negative angle which makes the chassis really nervous.

I had to use adjustable upper arms on my old race TL01 to pull the camber back in to give me some negative camber as the TB01 C-hubs mount slightly different. Still worked ok.

sven

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Hello...I have already tested my TL01 with hobbyking brushless power system and I am astonished at the performance of this combo motor...I have a question regarding with the steering...I think that anyone alredy know about the TL01 chassis steering issue...this is my point of view:
- even if I connect receiver and battery and setup the setting button in the neutral on my transmitter before mounting the servo motor into chassis the wheels are not straight (picture 3)? ...I think that plastic part which is mounted on servo motor rotating head has teeth on incorrect position? (picture 1)...even if I move the servo motor right and left (setup position with screw) the wheels are not straight...picture 2 (red arrows)...it looks like that the steering arms form servo motor are too long because it is not possible to make the wheels straight (picture 2 green arrows)...has anyone solve this problem or I am assembly something wrong? ...thanks.

 

 

TL01 steering issue.jpg

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I believe that there are times when toe-in (which is what you have there, I think) is desirable as it helps with straight line stability.

I doubt you have put anything together incorrectly, from what I have read here, kits often come with toe in/ out and positive / negative camber in stock form.

However, if you want to dial it out, then I believe this is what you are looking for.

https://tamiyabase.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=article&joobase=10&id=5464&Itemid=775

 

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4 hours ago, No Slack said:

Toe-in in the front is good for drifters, for a straight line toe-out in the front is better.

Well........  :unsure:

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On 22. 1. 2017 at 0:58 PM, No Slack said:

Here is my TL-01. Front toe -out and rear toe-in. Toe-in in the front is good for drifters, for a straight line toe-out in the front is better.

This thread http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192640 helped me a lot to make the TL-01 a good runner.

DSC02239.JPG

Hello! ...nice chassis...why do you have still install resistor? ...is this from the time when the TL01 chassis have a mechanical speed controller:)

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Hello! ...thanks for advices regarding the steering problem...I have also a question about rubber tyres...where to buy some good tyres for outside tarmac surface...because the rubber wear quite fast...thanks.

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On 23. 1. 2017 at 9:44 PM, tamiya wrc said:

Hello! ...thanks for advices regarding the steering problem...I have also a question about rubber tyres...where to buy some good tyres for outside tarmac surface...because the rubber wear quite fast...thanks.

Here is some article about steering setup http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2013/05/24/how-to-transmitter-steering-setup/

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Hello!...I have a question Regarding of the steering setup for TL01 chassis...is there any web store which sales this parts...I am thinking just the arm which connect steering servo motor with wheels like on picture below. I want to mount this arm on original chassis parts that means the same screw holes.

Another question is about the tyres and rims...why is good to have a tyre with foam inside...is this also affect on less wear of the tyre?...for example if your chassis is not mass centered you can reduce the wear of the tyres on one side with mounting the foam inside...in that case the tyre will not deform so much during the racing...is there any good web store which seals tyres and rims for tarmac surfaces...thanks.

Zajeta slika 4.2.2017.PNG

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LeverArm+Cspring=Servosaver

Did u build your car? those parts are on B-sprue of TL01 kit

tamiya_50736.jpg

What country are you living in... Trumpland? :ph34r: or Brexitter? :wacko: USA has Tower Hobbies, UK has their own on-island retailers... T parts aren't hard to find.

which reminds me... I gotta go find a hopup version of TL01 servosaver <_<

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35 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

which reminds me... I gotta go find a hopup version of TL01 servosaver <_<

use the hop up steering horn 54120 for a M-chassis with the servo saver springs, fits a treat👍 I have a spare standard horn if tamiya wrc wants?

sven

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Ceramic resistor is still on the TL01 because it looks cool:D (and indeed a left over from the MSC-days).

 

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1 hour ago, svenb said:

use the hop up steering horn 54120 for a M-chassis with the servo saver springs, fits a treat👍 

thought I had bought a 54120 yrs ago, checked the M03 but nope it wasn't there... went looking everywhere for blue arm until discovered I had gotten the black not the blue :lol:

782418d1310911672-tamiya-m-chassis-m05-m

Need to add a hi-torque ServoSaver pack though, don't look like it'll work directly with the kit plastic parts. 

It's too fancy for my particular TL01B application, I'll keep looking for another 3rd party solution. 

M03 can have it when I find a 51000... then again I bolted a alu horn & 51000 onto the M05 and its still sloppy grrr

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5 hours ago, tamiya wrc said:

Another question is about the tyres and rims...why is good to have a tyre with foam inside...is this also affect on less wear of the tyre?...for example if your chassis is not mass centered you can reduce the wear of the tyres on one side with mounting the foam inside...in that case the tyre will not deform so much during the racing...is there any good web store which seals tyres and rims for tarmac surfaces...thanks.

there's different types of foam inserts... cheap strips of opencell foam that you get in car kits, to molded higher density foam rubber inserts for race tyres

tyres come at different price points... cheap rubber-only tyres like given in car kits, to race rubber that's graded in rubber softness by temperature rating & they're "belted" under their tread to help the grip area keep their shape under load & they won't swell at high speed.

Racing tyre & foam are sold by brands like TakeOff, Spice, RIDE as well as from RC car brandnames like T & HPI. 

It's never cheap to buy tyre/wheel/foam separately; if you don't race then it's cheaper to find some "premount" sets ready to bolt on. Budget brands like YeahRacing offer premounts as do most yumcha China rc brand.

 

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The steering on my TL01 and MO4 are almost slop free with the servo saver and aluminium horn 👍

got rid of most of the slop by pressing the adjuster over a bit of the plastic bag it came in so the ball connector has a lining which by the time I did 4 joints made it nice and tight'ish,

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Straight tracking changes after every bump. :angry:

It's not slop in the joints (when needs be I use plumber Teflon tape instead not plastic bag) but rocking in the servo saver... the c-springs don't clamp down fully when both bits aren't exactly equal width :( takes a while of resizing to fix &/or changing to different HT parts... some bits work better than others.

M05 already has bearings & alloy bits in steering.

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