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Hello Tamiya fans!

I am upgrading my tamiya TL01 chassis and I have some questions...I want to replace old brushed silver can 540 motor and mechanical speed controller with combo motor...so I chose to replace the brushed motor with this one https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-x-car-brushless-power-system-4000kv-60a.html ...but there is a problem in specification I cant find the dimensions of the position of threaded holes on brushless motor (see picture below)...I also contact the hobbyking store and they are not sure if this motor will proper fits into the mounting holes on chassis...maybe has anyone some experience with installing this motor? I am also woundering about ESC "Running mode"...in specification is written "Forward only or forward with reverse (user programmable mode)" in case of setting "Forward only" what is the purpose of the button reverse on transmitter? ...is use only for dynamic brake? ...is this setting useful for prevent the pinion gears damage? ...I also need some advice about the proper 2S lipo charger...which is enough "smart" to stop charging when the battery is full? ...thanks.

Brez naslova.png

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A good budget charger is the Ripmax EQ Mini - it will charge NiMh, LiPo, NiCd, LiFe and lead acid batteries.

I'm quite sure the mounting holes will be compatible as they will be the same as any other 540 motor - it would be almost unsellable if it were to be different.

ESC forward only is used for racing, the reverse will be brake force only.

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Motor hole spacing on 540 size motors is pretty standardised - I would be extremely surprised if the holes in the motor you liked to don't fit the TL-01 chassis motor screw locations.

 

Some race classes don't allow reverse, so it is useful to be able to turn it off if you want your car to be race legal. This also allows you to use the brakes multiple times without triggering reverse - again a useful racing feature. However for general driving, might as well leave it enabled.

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You mean a brushless motor and ESC combo as in two separate things sold together to ensure compatibility and hopefully get a lower price!  When you said motor/ESC combo I thought you were talking about something like the Team Orion Vortex dDrive.

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Hello!
The charger which Illogica recommend it is basic and also it sales for a good price...like it...for 2S lipo battery pack I was thinking to buy this one... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-5000mah-2s-25-50c-lipo-pack.html ...I think that Nano tech has the long life lipo battery and quite good prices and also very high C rating? ...I have also a question about the meaning of C rating of lipo battery...if I understand correctly this mean allowed constant current for discharging the battery...if I get over the limit it is possible that I damage the battery? ...for example 5Ah X 50C = 250A (burst current for battery in that case will be above 250A?) ...If my ESC has Continuous Current: 60A and Burst Current: 380A...I think that it is OK...or you recommend higher C ratings? ...also this battery has 25C constant discharge current...that means that my ESC with 60A constant current is not a good choice? ...thanks for help.

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The c reasons are what it can do max constant, and max burst, it is just to tell you what the battery can handle, same with the esc amp rating, and motors have a rating for constant and burst.

A motor will only draw what power it can handle up to the next stop point. 

Example:

Your motor draws 45amp constant from the esc, which means the esc will only constant draw 45a from the battery, if the battery can only provide 30a constant, then the esc will draw 30 and feed that to the motor. 

To go deeper into this requires working out efficiency levels of the battery, motor, and esc. but that is only a concern for high level on road racing. 

 

Personally, I'd recommend getting batteries with a constant c rating that will place the amp delivery just above the motors constant draw rating, and have the esc's amp rating above the motors by atleast 5a to be safe. 

 

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Hello!
Thanks for advice...the C rating tell us what can handle the battery pack...I think that the bigger the better?...the constant current of battery it is necessary that is bigger than the constant current of ESC because otherwise there is possibility that we damage the battery pack?...I also read that the battery with bigger C rating provide shorter run time?...thanks.

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the mah rating has more to do with run time than c rating on a battery.

the constant rating of a battery is best to be above the constant draw of a motor so you can get the best performance from the motor, the esc by default should already be above the rating of the motor and there for shouldn't have an impact.

damage to the battery will only occur if the way your driving the car has the esc and battery going into burst mode a lot and managing to run the car at the peak of the constant rating, doing that will start to generate heat in everything, which no electronics like, there are warning signs of this happening, melted and/or deformed plastic on the esc, around the battery compartment, and around the motor mount point, along with puffing or swelling of a lipos case, or burning hot battery in the case of nimh and nicad.

 

to be safe, check the spec's of the motor you intend to use, make sure the esc has a higher spec than the motor, and then find a battery to match, or better, the esc's rating

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It's 6A output should be plenty - but does it come with an assortment of cables and a balance board? If not you will have to factor those in.

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57 minutes ago, Illogical said:

It's 6A output should be plenty - but does it come with an assortment of cables and a balance board? If not you will have to factor those in.

Hello! ...with this charger I will charge this battery: T5000.2s.60HC/ Turnigy 5000mAh 2S 7.4V 60C Hardcase Pack...I will also need to buy the right plug  https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hxt-4mm-to-banana-plug-charge-lead-adapter.html but I do not understand what do you mean with balance board? ...thanks.

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It's an adapter so you can plug varios types of LiPo (2S, 3S, 4S etc.) into the balance port of your charger:

jst-xh-balance-board-big.jpg

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You don't need a balance board - you can simply plug the balance plug into the balance port on the charger, being sure to align the right edge of the plug with the right side of the socket.

 

You might want to get a balance lead extension cable though, otherwise the battery would need to be located right up next to the charger during charging, as the balance lead on the battery is very short. This makes it hard to fit it into the fireproof charging bag stipulated by most clubs.

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Hello! ...thanks for information...can you please tell me how it is looks like the "fireproof charging bag" ...is this bag often use in practice? ...another question about the plugs for ESC - battery and ESC - motor (combo motor)...it is always the same procedure that you need to buy also right connectors and solder them on wires for connect the battery, ESC and motor? ...is there some ESC and motor with already provided connectors and you just plug them and system is ready to run? ...thanks.

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8 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

This is an example of a LiPo charging bag:

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/fusion-lipo-battery-bag-charge-sack-23x30cm/rc-car-products/370389

 

Some clubs are very strict about their use, others are less so. It depends on where you race I suppose.


Hello! ...Looks like that you know a lot about RC racing...I will use my car only for hobby and not real racing...do you have also some experience with my other question about soldering connectors? ...thanks.

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I am a relative newcomer too, but I have received a lot of advice from experienced racers, which I try to pass on whenever possible.

 

As for the soldered connectors, yes, quite a few combos come with connectors pre-soldered so all you do is plug them together and off you go. The Speed Passion Reventon S and Reventon R combos are like this for example.

 

Also, if you buy a combo that doesn't come pre-soldered, some hobby shops (such as Modelsport for example) have a soldering service.

 

Soldering is an important skill in this hobby though, and is probably something you ought to learn to do yourself at some point.

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You can just solder the ESC to the motor without any connectors if it's a permanent install.

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Hello!

Can anyone tell me what is the basic difference between this two combo motor:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22598__Hobbyking_X_Car_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_60A.html

http://www.rcmart.com/cheetah-sensored-with-4000kv85t2p-motor-combo-p-37104.html?cPath=1560_1301

- ok...the way of my understanding is that the SKYRC do not need the extra receiver...which is good?
- the programing card is better on hobbyking...I dont know about the functions I think that hobbyking has more setup functions and also you can program the ESC with PC via USB
- the SKYRC has already made connectors ESC - motor...do not need any soldering
- the turn off swich is not so suitable on SKYRC ESC but for me is OK that way
- the price is better at SKYRC...I think that also the motor and ESC is more quality made?
- the weight of the SKYRC motor is smaller 
- I do not know about the performance? ...is hobbyking more profesional? ...I read somewhere that SKYRC can reach the speed around 94km/h

- as I said the setup on hobbyking programing card is much more precise...picture below

- maybe has anyone some other suggestion about the combo motor in this price and performance range...thanks for your opinions.

Zajeta slika.PNG

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17 hours ago, Illogical said:

You can just solder the ESC to the motor without any connectors if it's a permanent install.

Hello...good idea IIIogical!

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I like the look of the SKYRC combo - but I'm sure they will both do the job adequately. 

If you can't decide and have access to soldering equipment, leave it to chance - toss a coin. Either result you're the winner.

If you don't have access to soldering equipment, the choice should already be clear.

 

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Hello ... It is necessary to glue the tires on the rims because I never do that on my TL01 chassis? ... But now with a combo motor I think it would be a good idea..what kind of glue do you use, because the worn out rubber tyres should go down one day...thanks.

 

Zajeta slika.PNG

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Cyanoacrylate (superglue) is a popular choice for tyre gluing. And yes, it is important. With an increase in power, the tyres will likely come off the rims when cornering if you don't.

 

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