TR-15T, the TR-18T conversion.

[chickenman242tk 266]

.12 and .15 engine should have the same footprint , perhaps you could email nova to confirm same goes with the crank you would need to check it too but i would be fairly confident you could make it work .

Another thing to check would be the starting system as most novas are either bump start or use a roto start type system

[kontemax 1793]

10 hours ago, Collin said:

Okay Max, i did some little research and there are some really nice Rossi engines for around 150€ on the marked from privat sellers. I am in love with them now .

One thing about the engines for general, are the mounting holes standardized on the small blocks like .12 - .18? How about the mainshaft, how does it work with mounting clutch, sprocket and flywheel? 

In case of my TR-15T, it would mean that i have to mount a clutch/sprocket/flywheel fitting to the engine or is it just a normal thing to mount the Tamiya ones on the aftermarket-engine?

I can't help for these question, as I said I'm not an expert of nitro engines.

The thing you can do is take your measurements and ask to the seller.

I believe that the motor on TR-15T is standard because was not produced by Tamiya.

 

Max

[Collin 2127]

I am also NOT an expert in all, only have this little treasure, my TR-15T. My feeling tells me that the mounting holes might have the same measure for good reasons. But this conversion will happen next year earliest, so it's still time to research.

Some other questions, which are more general.

First thing, its always an nice thing to do some hop-ups. So my focus is on the dampers in the moment. Hi-Caps will come some time but for now i should make the old one working well again. I cleaned them and put new oil inside but after two years (since i did that) there is some oil leaking. There are the 3mm silicon o-rings and the oil seal at the top. I am a little confused with all that Tamiya part numbers and also i like to get rubber seals which are not 20 years old and which fit perfectly. Any advice for this? Does not need to be Tamiya branded, as they have to work and does not change the look.

Second one, the answer is BEC switch, found it on the board

More will come for shure... for example, do anyone know how fast the TR15-T is running, as it is?

 

[kontemax 1793]

All plastic dampers have the same rubber parts.

Max

[acprc 1590]

If your Toki branded FS-15 has had it and you are looking for a replacement in the Tamiya range then the FS-15LT, FS-15RS, FS-12LT and the CX-12 will all fit the same footprint. You can swap the pilot shafts around so that the TR-15t clutch bell works.

With regard your missing oil hole on the starter shaft I wouldn't worry about that too much, the original FS-15 leaks enough to keep it oiled. I would consider changing the front and rear crankshaft bearings as they tend to leak the worst. As mentioned the recoil can be replaced with a FS-15LT recoil (7684044) as it will be easier to find or the electric starter system.

I have a few TR-15t so shout if you need advice, this is the last one I restored

 

[Collin 2127]

Oh yessss, I know your collection from the showroom. On this one you put on all possible gadgets! Love it  . Very interestig and helpfull advice around the nitro engine, thanks a lot! Specially because of the bearings, regarding the airleak I am hunting for. Just ordered a nice set of high quality bearings in all sizes for the TR-15T, so replacement comes. Also thanks to @kontemax for the inspiration, to change the brass bearings from the hubs to ballbearings.

@acprc May you look at your spares if you have at least one rear wheel hub # 9805443? On mine the spline is nearly gone and right now there is nothing to get on the bay and other knowen sources.

 

[kontemax 1793]

Use a Kyosho adapter and create the splines in it.

 

Max

[acprc 1590]

I don't have a spare wheel hub however there looks to be some people online showing stock if you Google the part number. Just incase you don't know the engine bearings will not come in bearing kits. They are a special size and thickness. The front is part number 7684029 and the rear is 7684030. You will need an engine bearing tool to remove and fit correctly. Both are available as I type this on Ebay.

[Collin 2127]

To write it down just for the documentation, both engine bearings from SKF:

SKF 618/9 Bearing 9x17x4

SKF 628/9-2Z Bearing 9x17x5

Googel is your friend (sometimes)! While I like to use alternativ search engines it sometimes drops informations...

[Tamiyabigstuff 877]

I have some spare engine bearings if you need them.

[Collin 2127]

Thanks a lot. I totaly trust in SKF/FAG in all my engines.

[Nobbi1977 1793]

On 26/11/2016 at 10:34 AM, Collin said:

Oh yessss, I know your collection from the showroom. On this one you put on all possible gadgets! Love it  . Very interestig and helpfull advice around the nitro engine, thanks a lot! Specially because of the bearings, regarding the airleak I am hunting for. Just ordered a nice set of high quality bearings in all sizes for the TR-15T, so replacement comes. Also thanks to @kontemax for the inspiration, to change the brass bearings from the hubs to ballbearings.

@acprc May you look at your spares if you have at least one rear wheel hub # 9805443? On mine the spline is nearly gone and right now there is nothing to get on the bay and other knowen sources.

 

Is this the same as the DT-01 one?

[Collin 2127]

7 hours ago, Nobbi1977 said:

Is this the same as the DT-01 one?

I dont think they are the same, DT-01 seems to not have the splines inside. Thanks for the ebay hint anyway   With some help from a friendly member i found a shop and got the hubs, 4 pcs. will help for a long time.
 

[GregM 1111]

DT-01 hex hubs do have splines inside, Tamiya 1/14 scale trucks too.

Make sure to buy a lot of fresh nyloc nuts and replace them asap when they wear out. This will help you against stripping the hex' splines.

[Nobbi1977 1793]

13 hours ago, GregM said:

DT-01 hex hubs do have splines inside, Tamiya 1/14 scale trucks too.

Make sure to buy a lot of fresh nyloc nuts and replace them asap when they wear out. This will help you against stripping the hex' splines.

I thread lock mine on. Seem to help

[GregM 1111]

Threadlocking the splines? Brilliant! I've got to try this by myself next time.

[Collin 2127]

Good morning fellas. I have to admit, DT-01 have splines inside and 12mm on the outside. So it is very close to the original hub (which i found in meantime). Defintitly I´ll put a drop of Loctite 243 befor the final mount, just to be on the save side.

 

[Collin 2127]

Guys, I am totaly confused now. Its all about the transmitter, receiver and the servos. The transmitter and receiver I used till now was a Multiplex from my Dad, but he was doing airplanes so its 35mhz. Figured out that it is not the great thing, to run a car on these frequenzes. So I found a nice used Futaba Megatech 3PM-FM with a R 133F 3ch receiver, all on 40mhz. 

Okay, so far it´s all right. What does confuse me are the servos. the one I am using are old, slow and have a lot of play, specially at the steering.

Nowadays there are so much different servos, hitorque, digital, lotek and highend. First of all, what is the necessary torque for my TR-15T on the steering and on the gas/break? I have the feeling that 6kg/60n @4.8V should beseriously enough, right? The one with >10kg/100n seems to be for the heavy weights on the market, yes?

And last but not least, digital vs. digital. I think analog are great because of less need of battery, digital seems to be faster and more stabel at the setting. 

thanks, C.

[Collin 2127]

Two steps forward, on step back...

Today it was cold but nice weather and I went to my Sis place outside the town to make some noise. It endet with an broken starter spring as usual thinking hardly about a brand new now.

But it's not all bad. With the new starter shaft the engine definitly do better, but still not as it should. Just striped down the engine befor, I noticed a very oily starter, so maybe the bras bush is also woren out. I will replace it and the front bearing by next week. Maybe also the gasolin is not the best, its half a bottle opened since two years, possibly not very potent.

Anyway, figured out that one of the teflon caps of the piston pin is gone, also the conrod bush to the crank shaft has some play. Nearly the whole engine will be new soon, the price for the single parts are ridicolous high! But somehow I can't do different as I do like to see things running again.

Some thing else about the flywheel-clutch. I drove one little round up and down the street, but the car is so slow and acceleration like a wooden toy car. Engine was on hi-rev and did well for that time. Here are some photos, for me the clutchbell look totaly nice and it was not oily at all.

 

What I noticed are the little marks on the shoes, which is far to less... they are brand new Tamiya original with metal spring. I have a couple of new shoes and also some with rubber O-ring. Any advice?

[chevelle 997]

Ahh nitro  So nice to hear those little motors  Unfortunately 15min's run time = 15hr's of maintenance  hmm, make's me want to start one up 

[Collin 2127]

Jep, during the others drive their 5th accupack empty, I am still setting up the carb And you ask why? Because I can

Today I did some pick-up and the postman rang as well. Some other stuff will come in the next days. Yea yea yea... (thanks to Mr. Tamiyabigstuff)

 

[chickenman242tk 266]

There is nothing more satisfying than running a nitro , to me its like playing with a 1:1 car but with a smaller budget lol.

There are a lot more moving parts and they need to be adjusted from time to time but the one advantage is once its tuned and running great you dont need to stop , a quick refuel and you are off again , having to charge up multiple batteries to have a good session can be a bit tedious to me

[Collin 2127]

On 6.12.2016 at 11:32 AM, chickenman242tk said:

... but with a smaller budget lol.

Well, I do a lot of Vespa and Lambretta and a serious good crankshaft does cost 200€ easiely. On this nitro runner its a real pleasure to do a engine service under 100€.

Whats new by now. The engine is serviced, fresh gasoline ordered and now I am waiting for the next dry days, its snowing right now. But this is a nice opportunity to do some clean up in the flat and... cleaning up the TR-15T. I throw out the old servos, which where really old and wobbly and had a lot of play. Because of the old 35Mhz RX/TX unit, there was a need of something new. All parts are second hand but really nice quality, the futaba servo was even NIB for absolute fair price. All in all about 70€ (transmitter, 2 receiver, 2 servo). I am totaly amazed by the Ko Propo servo. Its absolutely silent and precise. A dream in black. But not everything is new, the power switch got a nice silver nob to switch it more easier, including cleaning contacts and new soldering for futaba plug.

Well, what else to do? I am waiting for the blue Tamiya gasoline tube. Two years ago I bought one from another brand which seems to be thicker, but inner diameter was in fact smaller. To put the tubes on the petrol tank is really a pain because the connectors are not very long and very slick. So it happenes that the tube fall off. Tamiya tube is ordered and some fitting clamps as well. Also I ordered a TT-01 Turnbuckle Tie Rod (Tamiya # 53662) to replace the connector of both steering arms. Original part upgrade to set the "toe in/out" easier and no more need to mess around with the rods.

Last but not least, something new catched on ebay for a ridiculous price. Its no Tamiya, its a Kyosho Mini, a childish small modellpiece to run in my flat, gheee its fun!  The body is from the nitro model so it did not fit too good, but it was far cheaper than the original. On this one I can do all customizing I wouldn´t do to my TR-15T. But the Inferno does not fit in here so I stop writing about.

So long, happy modelling and greetings.

 

 

 

[Collin 2127]

Chakalaka! Last details are done, fresh Nitro fuel in the house, all batteries charged and ... no good weather in the forecase . So i think this is my last post here for a while because of the upcoming winter. Going to swap the Runner with my Snowboard. Anyway, hope to show up with a video next time, thats the plan. Happy New 17 to all of you!

Clamps on the fuel pipe (those two were the neuralgic ones).

Ball bearings instead of brass ones and TT-01 turnbuckle for setting toe-in/out.

[Collin 2127]

Baker man is baking bread,..... the night train TR-15T is coming!

Mates, that thing is running! I did my first serious testrun last weekend and its all fine, beside some small settings. The engine, finally, respons quickly, idle is perfect and it does rev out, all it should do! Also acceleration is fine now. I filed down the clutch shoes, the new one did not fit well to the clutch bell. You can see the marks of grip a few pics above. That was not enough to transport the power of the engine to the mainshaft. Also the breaks where not set correctly and the steering need some little changes. With 100% trim on left side, the car runs straigt. No problems to set up this correctly. Also the toe-in is to much, all things to play around with. The weak brakes and the incorrect trim made, that I hit a light pole on the narrow parking yard on the first round, all on very slow speed. Result was a bent fiber plate, the one where the front shockers are mounted. It was already little weak from a accident, in the first life of the car, 20 years ago.

So I was baking something...

 

It is not the beautiest but it does work. some 2k-epoxy + 2 thin layers of fiber and its hard and flexible. Beside I am drawing a 2D file for professional cutting, maybe once I do need it. The other result is a broken pike on the bulkhead. I found a spare part at a shop but thanks to the invention of the 3d pinter, ORB Racing provides a reinforced spare part, which I ordered by last week. Hopefully the postman brought me today soon .

Folks, as I promissed, I will  post a video, but in a while. At my parents place is a very big and empty parking space, really perfect for full power and wasting nitro, yea. Also I have to admit, after hearing the sound of the small cylinder, smelling the nitro and the oil, I will keep it as a nitro runner. A dirty streed dog, definitly no shelf queen. Also it was a strange feeling to run the Tr-15T after so many years again. It was a total timewarp, aflashback to my childhood. A great experience...

So long, its nearly done, but never  : D