TR-15T, the TR-18T conversion.

[Collin 2127]

On 20.5.2017 at 8:03 PM, Collin said:

... the postman brought me today soon .

Yea, ordered on 14th and today on 22th, it arrived! All fits perfect and my runner is back on the track. The bulkhead (D2) was made for the Dyna Storm and is slightly different to the TR-15T. The shaft is running trough two brass bushes on the TR-15T and the ORB part, its all in one. I did not modified it back to the metall bushes and Koen from ORB also sugessted, to leave it like it is. I dont see any reason right now, do you, my dear fellows?!

I am going to set the steering now and will look forward to the next run! Stay tuned : )

 

 

[Grastens 2821]

Great to see another TR-15T! I have a used hulk somewhere; it needs some new suspension and engine parts. This thread is actually quite a helpful resource for getting them running in the modern age, so needless to say I enjoyed reading this immensely. Staying tuned!

[Collin 2127]

One of the big things on the internet is the collectiv share of knowledge. This is why I like this kind of communities. I will post more experiences here and hopefully some blueprints one time. I have to relearn the CAD things, its all gone. Thanks of the nice machines today (3D print, CNC mills,...) it is possible to reproduce a lot of parts. I want to use my Runner for another 20 years minimum : )
 

For your intrest @Grastens here is a blueprint ang partlist for the engien FS-15. I found it somewhere in the web, dont know where... it might help you to resore your engine...

[Ian_Gsi16V 542]

On 11/26/2016 at 10:34 AM, Collin said:

Oh yessss, I know your collection from the showroom. On this one you put on all possible gadgets! Love it  . Very interestig and helpfull advice around the nitro engine, thanks a lot! Specially because of the bearings, regarding the airleak I am hunting for. Just ordered a nice set of high quality bearings in all sizes for the TR-15T, so replacement comes. Also thanks to @kontemax for the inspiration, to change the brass bearings from the hubs to ballbearings.

@acprc May you look at your spares if you have at least one rear wheel hub # 9805443? On mine the spline is nearly gone and right now there is nothing to get on the bay and other knowen sources.

 

I may have a couple of these? Do you still need some?

[Collin 2127]

20 minutes ago, Ian_Gsi16V said:

I may have a couple of these? Do you still need some?

Thanks a lot. I got already four of them. This should be enough for a long time. Still I do hope to find another used up TR-15T to stripe down to full up my spares. But in general I do look for some more TR-15T specific spare parts just to have the:

• Gearbox
• lower arms rear/front
• universal shaft
• mainshaft
• knuckle arms

If anyone does have some, please feel free to contact me.

 

 

[Tamiyabigstuff 877]

I have spare A & B parts + knuckle arms, possibly a mainshaft too.

[Collin 2127]

Hello Guys, one question about the dampers. They where leaking and so I renewed the original old red o-rings with black ones. Someone recommendet them for long lasting rubber quality, right?. Okay, so I put them in, wet with some oil around. The rest is all as usual, just that I filled up the missing oil and cleaned the rods. Now its like that, the dampers stick a little in standing position. I do need to push the car a bid down, than its fine. After a rest of maybe 10 minutes it stucks again. Little push downward, some resistance first and than its all fine. Well, the local dealer ordered some green slime which I can pick up by next week. Is this the solution?

Also, an that sounds tuff, I do use clear 900 oil, which is very hard viscosity and the damper disc with only one little whole. Springs are standard. I am not shure if this very hard setting is good for driving but I did not had that much time to test yet. My thoughts, the setting is for flat asphalt, so I´d set from hard down to soft in small steps. All your experiences are very welcome! 

[Collin 2127]

Hi there... one question!

Are the new re-released Top Force Hi-Caps the right size to replace stock dampers on my TR-15T? Seems like they are the same lenght than Tamiya #53037 and so the should, right?

[chickenman242tk 266]

They will fit but you may need to put some spacers on the shafts to limit the travel 

[Collin 2127]

Thanks for verifying my thoughts. You are right, there need to be the spacers inside, shure.

[Collin 2127]

I say a hip hop hippy,
hippy to the hip hip HOP-UP.

Hi fellas, thanks to the Re-re-release of the Top Force there came a new patch of Hi-Caps. So I did it (too). What to say, really nice made pice of metall. First I thougth the color would not match to my TR-15T and was planning to let them anodizing in black with crome springs but at the end, I am really fine with what it is. The yellow fits to the colours of decals and the body.

So far I am using the hard #900 damper oil and discs with 2 drilling holes. Thats pretty hard but I think for asphalt and concret parking lots straight okay. Maybe I am going down to medium #600 or just discs with more drilling holes inside.

Well, lets assemble all the fun. For organizing all the little parts I can hardly recommend film bobbins for 16mm film. Organisation is the half life.  

First I setted up the Hi-Caps like the orignal with 92mm (rear) and 82mm (front) from eye to eye. Spacers inside where used as the manual (TR-15T) said. Unfortunitly the original springs where to small from the inner diameter so they does not run clearly and scratch on the aloy damper cylinder. So I needet to use the yellow springs, which does fit from the aesthetic point of view as well, how glad I am.   So please have a close look.

Front:

Rear:

One little detail, I have to built some spacers on the lathe. 5,5mm x 5mm with 3mm drilled inside. Othervice the dampers wouldn´t be parallel to the mounting plate and thats what we dont want, right?  Same for the front ones.

Here with the Hop-Up 3mm aloy spacer and little shims. New one will be built soon... so stay tuned! 

 

 

[JatoTheRipper 95]

Very, very cool!  I can't wait to see and, more importantly, hear the video!  I love the sounds and smells of nitro!

[Percymon 2187]

Hi-Caps are lovely things to hold, build and admire - they look so rights on any model

 

Good to hear you are enjoying the TR again after some initial frustrations.

[Percymon 2187]

There are still some new spares around..

http://www.victor101car.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=36&q=tr-15

http://www.victor101car.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=36&q=tr15

[Collin 2127]

22 hours ago, Percymon said:

Hi-Caps are lovely things to hold, build and admire - they look so rights on any model

Good to hear you are enjoying the TR again after some initial frustrations.

Yea, frustration is a word, but it was more like confusion. I had so many difficile problems on my other projects that I dont feel any anger or frustration anymore. A Zen way of fixing things...

At the end it was a airleaking engine, a missing head gasket and the clutch shoes, which did not work propperly because of no straightness.

Another very anoying thing, here in Vienna its almost impossible to find a spot to run a Nitro without disturbing anyone. To have a propper run I need to move to some places outside the city which takes time. This reminds me to get a stabel box for my RC equipment, to transport it on the back of my Motoscooter

 

[Collin 2127]

Hi fellas, please have a look at the first posting:

I would like to put some informations together to have a good overview about facts. Sometime I was looking for measurments or parts or whatever and I get lost in the thread. As I do like the model very much, I´d like to write some facts to the archive in posting #1. For this I can really use help as I know that some of you knows a lot more about Tamiya part history.

For example, there is a plastik bearing at the multi-disc  clutch BG4 (1280). I am not shure but I think it does not make sense to replace it with a metal ball bearing cause of axial preasure from the spring, right?

 

 

 

[kontemax 1793]

I replaced it.

 

Max

[Collin 2127]

Thanks Max. I guess the inner diff bearing 850 als, right?

Another thing is the knowen articel from Radio Control Car Action Magazine. Does anyone have the full article? Or does anyone know which year and issue it was?

[kontemax 1793]

I also replaced the 850 bearing inside the differential.

Max

[Jamesssb 237]

Just to add that I too have changed the 850 to a ball race. 

[Collin 2127]

Thanks for your reply. I do see the benefit on ball bearings on fast rotating parts such as gearbox or tires. But on my opinion, the 850 inside the diff is just moving a little and does have its pressure from axial way. Anyway, do you guys see more benefit to use ceramic all bearings? In competition for shure, but for a weekend runner?

Btw. did someone say...

On 12/4/2016 at 8:25 PM, chevelle said:

Ahh nitro  So nice to hear those little motors  Unfortunately 15min's run time = 15hr's of maintenance  hmm, make's me want to start one up 

 

... hmm, right!

Seems like I have to organize some replacement, no more fixing this carbone plate. This happened after even not half of the fueltank. But hey, better now than next weeken, when I was planning to go further to my parents home. Also there are still litte things to fix. The break does not jump back to neutral position, maybe I have to shim it. Also I figure out that the base plate is litte bent. I do have a spare one but will swap it when I replace some bearings inside the gearbox.

But here you have a really unmotivated video from warmup till break of the front damper stay. Once all runs fine I´ll do something really nice.

https://a-tom.org/tc/TR-15T_testrun.mp4

[Percymon 2187]

Either make your own (use old one as template) from some 2mm / 3mm carbon fibre sheet, or perhaps ask Fibre-lyte to give you a quote to make one (not cheap, or quick unfortunatley)

 

[Collin 2127]

Hi Percymon. Just beside uploadig the video I do some vectors for this parts. Unfortunitly I did not do any technical drawing for long time but I want to get into it again. Its something for the upcoming winter but my plan is to put files for the carbon parts of the TR-15T online in this thread. Ahm, do I violate some copyrights if I would do that?

 

 

Mhmmm,... wait!  Lets do it reinforced. Anything against it?

[Percymon 2187]

Only issue with the extra material might be the top cap of the shocks rubbing if you used the inner most holes - if you don't want to use the inner holes then don;t drill them, and retain some strength.

[Collin 2127]

Thats a very good point, Percymon. I thought the same, the unused holes just are weakening the plate. But on the drawing I added 1mm holes right now for having a correct position, maybe I`ll remove them bevor cutting. 

Here in my hood is a company which provides watercutting. I already have a 2,5mm carbon plate and I am going to ask them tomorrow.

@kontemax How about the sub plate?