Percymon 2184 Posted October 9, 2017 One thing to consider, if you beef up the shock tower what is then the weak spot for breakage - those extra holes might not get used but perhaps they are there as much to create a weakness in high stress landings ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 9, 2017 Always a good question, what is the next part behind... Hmmm, when I hit the first pole it was over 20 years ago and the carbon was bent. Last year only a little hit and it was nearly off. Then I noticed the broken bulkhead, which might had a hairline from the first collision. No one here who have the skills to use a MSC software? I am very happy about your suggestions! But right now I think it will be fine with the two 1mm dummy-holes and the upper 3mm mounting point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 10, 2017 Seems like I get a bunch of damper stays and engine sub-plates by end of the week. If someone needs one, pm me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted October 10, 2017 Great result, retaining the other holes (at 1mm) seems like a smart move to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 10, 2017 I am very excited about the coming result Now I d like to ask someone, to send me a scan of the upper deck? All other parts are no problem but I simply dont want to stripe my TR-15T for this scan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted October 10, 2017 Probably too small to enlarge but found this.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 10, 2017 The dpi resolution is to low but thanks anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 13, 2017 Right in time befor weekend. I love when things going to work in time... 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 13, 2017 I am more then happy with the result and the quality. Just putting the car in the box and going to let it run! Yeyeyehhh... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted October 13, 2017 Watch out for telegraph poles ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 13, 2017 Mission complete. After a few attemts its done. The TR-15T runs like on the first day, mabe even better... ...it was really great fun to do drifts and donuts and smokelines today. I did 3 tanks and its all fine. Now the carb is set up correctly. Top speed is not too much but did not had a good chance to go leaner. Also the parking lot is way to small to do some highspeed testruns. More important, the engine runs very crisp. Accelleration is with no delay and very linear. Steering is precise and direct but maybe little more toe out would be perfect. Only the breaks could be sharper, but who needs breaks... Well, one breakdown happened. The 20+ year old exhaust pipe broke directly after the exhaust and left a big mess on the rear damper. But hey, thats fair enough an cleaning this baby after the run is als a good part of the game. One last thing I did yesterday evening. I put the old 3mm o-rings on the ball joint to reduce the play on the connectors. I can not feel any negativ response. Well, thats it for now. I think from now on I am going to have more fun on running and maintenance than hunting for failures. Hope that I can help someone with my experience here. Cheers friends! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 19, 2017 Oh, it´s even not the end of th line I have bought new 16% nitro fuel and will have a nice session this weekend. A huge space with no poles and no pavement. Therefor I did some preperations. The whole gearbox got new bearings and ceramiy balls for the diff. I was totaly suprised, some of the old bearings where over the edge and I did not realized last time. Also the Diff was tightened to much maybe, I am curious how the steering will react now, as I was struggeling with understeering. Now its all fresh lubed and assembled. By this way, thanks to @wildwillydriver for the hint with repairing treadholes in the plastic parts with Cyano-glue. Top! It was also the one thread in the gearbox, which was little woren out. Also I did replace the old and crumbly sponge for the air filter. I could not find anything made for this filter, so I was looking for something more common. I do like Marchald very much, Its a very sporty brand. Molto sportivo, prodotta in Italia. Only the best is good enough for my TR-15T . This piece of filter will last for a good while... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 24, 2017 Hi there... I have some little issues with the recoil starter. The spring is breaking quiet often and I want to replace it. Do anyone know if the FS-15 is compartibel with the FS-12 starter? http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=7684076 Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiyabigstuff 832 Posted October 25, 2017 I've had a look at FS-12 & FS-15 pull starters and apart from the colour of the plastic and the sticker label they look the same to me. I'm fairly sure the backplate & one-way bearing for both engines are the same. The parts lists for the HPI Nitro Star engines I have - upon which I understand the Tamiya branded engines are based - show the same part numbers for the pull starter. Have you considered getting the geared starter option part or going for electric start ? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 25, 2017 Thanks, so it is how I thought. I will definitly stay with the recoil starter. It works pretty well, only the spring is old now and do break to often. I figured out the problem. For the inner end, the metal need to be heated up to bend in the correct shape. The metal is so thin, that it is pretty hard to not overheat it, which takes flexibility and makes it more easy to break. I was calling two factorys for springs here in Austria. I was shocked, both would charge about 70€ for 3 meter, which are aproxymatly 3 recoil springs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted October 29, 2017 Here it is, the recoil starter for the FS-12 does fit to the FS-15. The FS-12 part does have a plastic clip inside to guid the inner part. I do like this idear but just not, to leave the sticker on it. Also the silver plastic did not fit to well. Some paintjob this afternood and a sticker from my collection and I am okay with it. Gosilllaaahh 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted November 2, 2017 My dear diary, today was a very beautiful and sunny autumn day. Right perfect to have a little run and bring some donation to the god of speed (anyone seen that movie?) On a hard driftcurve the car turned backwards and hit a concret pole on the rear wheel. The rest of the story, we all know it... a standard breakdown. Luckily I do have hunt some spare parts in the last year and did fix it already. A funny thing is the stamp on the plastic tree. Its written Dyna Storm but I always thought the reinfoced gray fiber parts are only made for the TR-15T? The body also needs some love and soon the whole thing is reinforced by UHU+ and fiber sheets. I do wonder how long this can go on? Now its all repaired and the epoxy can dry whil I am going to the Gorillaz concert tonight. Chakalaka dance... Another thing I tried today, was the lightweight flywheel. Unfortunitly I could not feel any difference in driving but the idle was not so good. Thats a well knowen behave of lightweight flywheels. With a lighter weight you have to lift up the idle rpm, othervice the engine will die. Some more weight is never wrong, unless you drive on the ring Another last story from today, for shure the starter battery voltage run to low and the glow plug did not heat up to much. This happened after the warmup round. Improvisation is my second name, so I used the remote battery pack to make it work. With the crocodile clamps on the +/- poles of three AA batteries I was abel to start finaly. I will modifie the battery tray of the remote a little to give the clamps more grip. Just for backup, hehehe. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted November 6, 2017 Hi there. It does not look like in my last post, but reliability is really a important point for me. There where some points I simply did not like on the TR-15T and one of them are the rear universal shafts, especialy the joints. For quiet a while I was thinking about how to protect them from environmental influences. The one on the TR-15T are very hard to find as spare parts. Today I was helping a mate in our workshop and while searching for some parts I found exactly what I was looking for... This little rubber cups are listed under the name Rubber Cable Cap or Rubber Cable Boot and is produced by another big italian company, Dellorto. After cutting the big end it does fit absolutely perfect into the upright and on the small end, there is a perfect shape for a small cable tie. The friction between rubber and upright is really not much but I will see how it looks like after the first and second run. Definitly some silicon oil can't harm here. Now the joints can swim in fat and have more protection from dust and water. Me like... P.S.: Okay, after a few fueltanks I can say, the rubber cups does work. I just did not had any small cable ties with me but even then, the caps stayed on the upright side and did not movead around. With the cable ties it will be perfectly fine. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted November 11, 2017 Oh dear mates, somehow its just enough to have only one RC. I did two more turns last weekend and broke another lower arm mount. Again the right one. Koen from ORB already sent me one of his 3D printet Dyna Storm parts which are the same for the TR-15T. They should be stronger then the original one. Beside I started to play around with Freecad and will draw this part to machine it out of alloy. Solid like a rock. What else? Well, somehow the engine always became to hot after more than a quick testrun. Not just warm, really too hot. The carb was set right, not to lean, not to fat, also no air leaks. I was little confused and had no Idear till one evening this week. As I was reading a lot of the old Radio Control Car Action magazines, I read about tuning a O.S. engine by enlarging the transfere ports, outlet and cutting the conrod. Hm,... what I usually do on my two strokes, I could do here as well! So I opened the engine and made some cosmetics on the sleve. Unfortunitly I did not took any fotos but will do after the next tuning stage. All went well and you know what?! You never guess! I found what went wrong all the time. Once a time ago I thought the head gasket was missing and put one in. Now I figured out that I just had one in but could not spot it because it was in the grove of the head and looking like there was no insinde, hehehe. More compression means cooler temperatur on engines. I did a run of two tanks today and it was perfect! After it I could spit on the cylinderhead with no steaming bubbles. Everything runs much smoover now and I am totaly satisfied. The engine fires after a few pulls, cold and warm. Also the larger transfere ports did work and I will continue step by step. Unfortunitly winter is coming now. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted November 17, 2017 Postman brought me... Thanks to Koen form ORB Racing. I really like the surface of the 3D printed parts. It does remember me on wood. Again, like the bulkhead, the parts are designed to not need the brass flanged bushings. If this is a progress, I dont know? Definitly the solution with the locked mothers is a great idear. What else? I run out of large snap pins, so I did some improvisation with o-rings. I love this little details. Also I bent a spring to hold the starter in its position. Without that it´s so anoying, because the handle bar is always hiding under the body. I do have some idears for further modifications. One of them is about the diff spring. On the TR-15T Tamiya used 9 disk springs, always 3 on 3 in opposite way. Now I found Tamiya 49299 springs for the TRF415,TA05,DF03, which seems to fit instead. My question, does it bring any denefit to swap the disk springs for the other one? Another mission I am on, the spare parts for the engine. I decided to stay with the Toki FS-15. It has enough power and going up to a .18 would not be fine for the diff and the gears. After starting porting the sleve I had a slippy diff, which was gone after tightening the screws a bit. No problem at all but here are the limiting factors of the TR-15T. Its still a toy and no competition model car. Anyway, it´s pretty hard to find sleves and piston for the FS-15 and the one on ebay is ridiculous pricy. I found one in germany (last piece in stock) from the FS-15LT which came with the TGX model, the one with the square cooling head. It´s always bit risky to buy on fotos with no measures. Unfortunitly the sleve is perfect and does have the same layout and diameters. Only issue is the piston pin. The LT piston pin is very thin and does fit into a blind hole. I will get another piston pin from the Toki FS-15 and grind up the LT piston to fit into it. Another thought will be to change the conrod, but I dont have one. Anyone can give me measures from the LT conrod? So far I am quiet happy with my spare box now. I am on 99% of what I want to have. Definitly I do have a better and deeper sleep now. Oh guys, by the way I found a blog from a japanese colleague about the TR-15T. He did wild modifications and tested a lot of things. I like his unique way of try and error. Please have a look, its 50 pages and really wild to read after automatic translation... https://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/tr15tminit/folder/406151.html?m=lc&p=50 But one thing I took out of his blog is about tires. The Tamiya tarmac tires does slip a lot and this brought me in some nervous situations after hard breaks. I´ll try to get one pair of the HPI 4450 which seems to fit on the original rims. I dont want to change them because they are totaly hot, on my opinion. Do tires usually come in pairs or singel pieces? I did not found any information about this... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted November 17, 2017 From HPI website it appears they come in pairs with the foam inserts. They are designed for 2.2" wheels # 4450 - TRUCK V GROOVE TIRE PRO COMPOUND 2.2Combining great looks and fantastic on-road handling, the low-profile V-Groove tires are the perfect way to add performance and head-turning awesomeness to your truck. Made to fit 2.2" truck wheels, HPI V-Groove tires are perfect for driving, racing and bashing any paved surface. If it's dusty or damp outside, the cool V-shaped grooves give you extra traction so you can keep driving even when the conditions aren't perfect. In cool weather, the softer Pro Compound are the ideal choice! These tires will fit any of the 2.2" wheels offered by HPI.Sold in pairs with foam inserts. Available in 2 different compounds: #4450 - TRUCK V GROOVE TIRE PRO COMPOUND and #4451 - TRUCK V GROOVE TIRE M COMPOUND There are plenty of other 2.2" truck tyres, just one UK seller lists all these (you'll need to double check fitment ref width etc etc).. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/wheels-tyres-tyres/rc-car-categories/9960/996010&MSAttributeID[58]=1305&MSAttributeID[63]=872 The Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs work well on a mixture of surfaces and last very well, the Road Rage or Speed Hawgs are probably better for tarmac only use. I have the Road Rage 2.2 on my 1/16th Traxxas eRevo and they cope with dirt and dust very well.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted November 17, 2017 This Pro-Line road tires look great but are way to wide. I want to stay with the original rims in any way. they are about 44mm wide. I think everything till 50mm would fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted November 18, 2017 Yea it was a nice time today! Nothing to tune, nothing to repair, nothing broken. Just fun! And my first speedrun. I did not expect more or less. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted November 29, 2017 Last weekend it was the end of the season, having a lot of fun at a large parking lot with no poles but already some snow around. Sadly my new tyres arrived one day later. They looks great and fit perfectly. The diameter is 91mm instead of 82mm, thats not bad, the engine will pull it and all in all more topspeed. Lately I did some modification on the cranksahft and the conrod, after porting the sleve. Acceleration increased substantly, max. rev did not changed. I will continue by try and error, still have a old crankshaft to do some experiments. Photos will come, but in a while. Now winter starts and its not that easy to go to the parkinglot here in Vienna without my motobike. TR-15T project is done for now, I have all my spares and did all the modification I wanted to do... unfortunitly something new will arrive by end of this week. Ah, i forgot, on the first post in this thread I added "Shell & Decals" with a nice .psd file of the boxart picture splitted in some layers to change colours. Its not perfect but good fun to work on a new colour theme.https://a-tom.org/tr15t/colour_tr15t.psd 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
