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TR-15T, the TR-18T conversion.

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:ph34r:

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By accident (bought me a electro Losi XXX BK1 and needed to get into electrics :D ) I found this little big guy, a .18 LRP labeled XTEC engine in pretty nice shape for 30 bucks. There cant be too much wrong with it. They are used in some RTRs and spares are insane cheap. Maybe for a reason, we´ll find out...  Unfortunitly the crankshaft has the same thread (M5), the engine mounts have absolutely same distance, only exhaust holes are a bit too narrow. I´ll probably modifie me a TR-15T muffler, as this will be enough, no need for a expansion exhaust.

So this are my plans for the New Year. A good one to you guys! B)

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Interested to see what happens here, for I have a TR-15T in need of an engine; a modern alternative would make it a bit easier to live with. Best of luck!

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Well, I think I´ll know more in the next few days. Just need a calm evening to see how it fits.

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Humm, that near to plug and play :o

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Just a little spacer and its fine. The play between pinion and spur gear is a bit too tight but really not much. Maybe sacrificing one spur gear? Maybe with a propper spacer its more clear, maybe... maybeeee.

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Engine mounts are like a charm, absolutely same design.

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Muffler is a bit out of alignement. Left side is bolt on, in the right its a little allen key. Eventually i can file the hole in the muffle a bit towards the middle and cut in a m4 instead of 3mm screw.
Note to me, get a spare muffler... :rolleyes:

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One little issue, the sink head is a bit to tall. Mr. Powerfile will have a closer look, jep. :D

Does anyone wonders why LRP/XTEC did used such a simular design? I do... :wacko:

 

 

 

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I must be drunken yesterday night. :o:D

Somehow the carb does not fit and I did not noticed, but I had a dry-built with only a few screws inside,.... hummm.

Anyway, things are not bad at all, from the point of view today. I drilled the muffler mounting holes from 3.0mm to 3.5mm and the Tamiya muffler fits perfect. I did some Dremel-ing on the heat sink and its fine, just have to remove a bit on the left hand side. Shure I did wrong marks yesterday night. <_< Does not matter at all, at the end the roll bar will get enough space to the heat sink. ;)

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About the carb, the body is massive and I think I can Dremel a bit here and there. That should be enough to make it fit, its the third mounting of the gearbox-aloy-plate, which doesn´t give the space for the carb. I dont want to modifie anyting on the TR-15T, its the engine which have to loose material.

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One last issue is the play between spur and pinion gear. It´s to big, not to small as after a few beer. :D How to do? I will make slots out of the engine mounting holes, this will allow me to move the engine a bit back. Its maye 4/10mm or 6/10mm which I need to have a clear play on the gears...

By the way, I also removed some material in the corner/edge under the engine mounting holes to let the engine mount slip in perfectly. Its about 2/10mm on each side.

Well, I really wish the carb will fit after the cure. I´ll take the whole car to my workshop tomorrow, that does make it easier to check clearance. Also I sent a mail to the guy who sold me the engine and he will have a look for the missing aloy spacer, which stays between engine and clutch. That would be cool if it pops up. So stay tuned, update will come tomorrow. B)

 

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Its a smily? no! There is not much space to the rear side. Goint to meet a mate tomorrow anyway, to do some welding. My mates Vespa was kicked down by a car, so there is some more to do... ^_^

I had much more luck with the carburettor. There is plenty of material and it fits fine. Enough play to move the engine closer to the spur gear. Badly I needet to file a bit on the U-mount, the original TR-15T engine mount. This is the only solution. If I had the right sources, I would CNC a mount, which fits. But no have :P

Guys, this is try & error ... better I should leave it, the tranny box will not be amused, maybeeeee... B)

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Okay, welding did work, but it was not that nice, for the price of 7€ I simply got a new body. Again some litte dremel-power here and there and enlarging the mounting holes into slots.

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Underneath the "C" I needed to get some space for the allen-screw-head. The material is so thin there, You have to be really carefull. 

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Some material gone, I removed a bit of the "ring".

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Carb, well,... I have to remove a little bit more. Ah, and if you ask yourselfe, I found a rust-ground spraycan and it looks so perfectly like the original one. :D

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Gear clearance is perfect for me.

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Last issue is the smaller flywheel close to the engine. On the Tamiya FS it does have a hole to hold the crankshaft. It´s very usefull to tighten the clutch and flywheel. I have two choices. 1) I file a bit from the LRP crankshaft to make the Tamiya part fitting or I have to get the version with the brass-cone, like on most common engines. I am not shure jet, I can finish everything by filing the shaft but mess it also, because its hardened steel. Enough for today anyway... B)

Ah, this new engine block is a VTEC and no CTEC. All the same body but the transfere canals are not that wide and deep. I dont mind at all, I am still a bit nervous about how the TR-15T takes the ccm boost.

 

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Simply milled down the shaft and it fits like a charm. Only a small shim between the inner bearing-ring and the small flywheel and clearance is perfect. The motor is ready to assamble now. ^_^  I was too tired yesterday night. The disk is a bit to high, the clutch will press against the disk and not the crankshaft. That will not work. I´ll reduce the high of the center of the disk. For use on the TOKI FS-15 I will mount it with a shim, on the LRP without. It all about a few tenth of a millimeter.

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Whuup, nothing! Just filed down the edge around the outer bearing and the disc had more space, It would have been grinding around there. Dont know... last nights where long and I was not concentrated. Well, everything is in its position and ready to run. Spending 40€ its okay for a experiment. Hope ther wouldn´t come any colateral breakdowns. :) Might take some time until I can do a testrun, you will get infos then. ;)

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Last modification was the the recoil starter. The angle of the rope is right now, otherwise you will ruin the rope pretty fast.

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Dear TR-15T Owners Club. ;)

I do have a question, maybe someone can do me a favor?

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This Hop-Up disc, do any one have one? I need to know how thick it is? The original does have 3mm. How about the efficience of the Hop-Up disc, does it improve the brakes very much?

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2 hours ago, Collin said:

Dear TR-15T Owners Club. ;)

I do have a question, maybe someone can do me a favor?

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This Hop-Up disc, do any one have one? I need to know how thick it is? The original does have 3mm. How about the efficience of the Hop-Up disc, does it improve the brakes very much?

It's the same dimensions as the original disc AFAIK. The material is MUCH more durable than the original as well. It's sort of like brake pad material you would find on a 1:1 vehicle. It wears like iron and doesn't have much variance in performance during it's usable life. I've driven a couple TGXs with these discs, and the performance improvement was obvious.

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You are right, the material endeed looks like brake pads. I saw some aftermarket discs made of carbon-fiber. Also some other manufacturer have used it for their discs. Do you or anyone have experiences in this direction?

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Why am I not suprised? :lol: Thanks Mr. Big T.

I am hardly thinking about reproduction of a dozen or so. Just doing some investigation about the material but I think I already found the right stuff!

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Yellayella! B)

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Just apperared on ebay for 25€ incl. shipping. Couldnt resist! Now I have pretty everything I wanted. Also got a slightly used Hop-Up breakdisc with the same auction for a very little price. Also I found a source for the material of the Hop-Up discs and as soon I dont spend my little money for RC spares I will go to produce a bunch of discs.

Soon the the season will start and I am prepaired. :D

While I did some researche on the web I found one photo on a japanese blog. 
https://ameblo.jp/elsinore335/ (Photos used fom this source, thanks man!)
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Can anyone confirm this is a OS MAX-18TR-TZ with OS SPEED T-1070 muffler?

Wait, another thing is spinning in my head. The original fuel tank has 80cc. I was wondering if there are any bigger one which fits without cutting the upper deck. It can be taller, ther is plenty of space. What is goint to happene if I cut two and ... :o

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That looks like an 18 rz but it's had a pull start conversion , they are bump start out the box , these engines are total animals , usually find them in earlier t maxxs and jatos

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t-maxxed TR-15T :o I d´love watching this conversion on the track! But still I am not sure how much is capable before it is falling apart...

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Id be curious to know the power output of the toki .15 vs an os engine.

The .18 came with 2 outputs , .18tm was a direct fit for the trx family of trucks and comes with provision for pull start and a slightly smaller output.

The 18tz was a multi fit engine , it has a differet crank and is also a bump start. , you can convert a tz to pull start but you need a tm crank , backplate and starter pin.

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Me too. But I have no idear how to get this values? Tamiya did not litsted them. I could built a Dyno for the cars but I think its not really worth to spend time and money in it. Measuring the output voltage of a generator, connected to the crankshaft or via the rear wheel would give some nice curves. ^_^

Anyway, soon I´l lgoint to thest the .18 LRP and I am more than excited about it. For a good reason I got 2 spare spur gear sets :lol:

 

Btw... does any one have this fuel tank at home and could do ma a favour please ?! Its from a TGM-02...

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Ladies and Gentleman, the TR-18T. :D

https://a-tom.org/tc/TR-18T_testrun.mp4

It runs great! much more fun than the .15 and does not need to be more. It is much more agile, quick and brings more torque from the low rev. The MDC seems to be fine and the Diff also. Only after sharp turns it is not wise to go on full power, then you can hear the diff. But sensitiv fingers can handle this.

But what suprised me most are the HPI tires. No more loosing control, no more donuts. That was most anoying thing at all. The Tamiya tarmac tires are really not the big hit and I can recommend to all of you swapping the rear ones for the HPI. In the front they are fine and they will stay.

Another progress was changing the fiber brake disc for the hop up one from the TG10. Its much more crisp and it gives you a really sporty noise when breaking under full load.
I setted my Futabe transmitter to ABS brake mode and that works like a charme.

So far its done, I have my .18 running and my .15 as a backup. 4 liters 16% Nitro in stock and the summer is coming. ^_^

Ah,.. and the speedrun ( 80km/h >> 49,7mp/h ): https://a-tom.org/tc/TR-18T_speedrun.mp4

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Hi guys. I was just wondering, since I dug out my TR-15T I was looking for spare parts and got pretty everything to keep it running for a long time. The only one part I never found are the universal shafts. Other members already told me that they are super rare. They are also used on the Dyna Blaster, which does not show up here so often.

Now I was thinking, there must be some third party CVDs which could fit, right? Unfortunitly I dont have so much long time experience on this hobby and I am far away from just ordering anything I can get only to see if something fits, huh...

Do anyone of you have a clou?

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Solved the CVD thing in a gentle way, just got a spare TR-15T. B)
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Now I have spares for the next generations. Engine parts, piston and sleves for both LRP and Toki, clutches, transmission, carbon fiber parts and so on... Its a good feeling to be abel to run a rare nitro like badword, its a bit like classic car rallys, but in scale. :D

With this spare parts I completet  my Toki engine to a nice sculpture, always ready to plug and play.
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And whats going to come next? Started to sandblast some old rims to coat them in custom colours. Also the break caliper needs a new galvanic coat. I am courious if MCI Racing would do me tha favour to design a TR-18T decal set... yey customized TR-18T :P

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What does all this mean, ha? :ph34r:  Guess :D

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CFK350x150x15.jpg     TGM-02_tank.jpg

 

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Prototyping :)

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Drybuild :D

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All perfect, nothing to change on my drawing. Battery tray will get alloy mounts like the one beside. For the nitro tank I have to create a adapter plate, no need to drill the alloy chassis.

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