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VagabondStarJXF

Feedback on my 3D Printed Stuff, please. :)

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Hey there VagaBond, that link to an old photo got me nowhere, just informing you.

I did want to ask about how a person could keep the rust off Thorps, would clear coat do it??

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30 minutes ago, Crash Cramer said:

Hey there VagaBond, that link to an old photo got me nowhere, just informing you.

Fixed! Well... I replaced it with a link to my TC Showroom instead. :D

31 minutes ago, Crash Cramer said:

I did want to ask about how a person could keep the rust off Thorps, would clear coat do it??

I guess that'd work. You'd need to make sure any rust was taken care of first but I can't see why that wouldn't work. Good idea, Crash.

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cool, it is a MONSTER, I still can't leave a comment even though I am signed in. I really like what you did with it, it is different.


Also, good idea I had??? If I had DONE it, that would have been a good idea, so I could report on its effectiveness. :D

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Cool stuff thanks a lot, Once I get my Striker up and running I'll surely start tinkering with it at the edges, the battery door is stored away for the future too cheers, great work.

Think I found the alloy hubs is it these?

http://www.pargustore.com/tamiya-fox-alloy-rear-wheels-hub.html

 

I really like your Striker in your showroom, such a mosh mash of other parts beautifully mounded together, I'm going to go investigate the CRP suspension kit right now, think I posted on KonteMax's thread about the Sonic Fighter front suspension mount and it's good to see it again on your example, nice looking shocks you have.

Did the Striker come with friction shocks all round and if so are the rears easy to replace with oil filled ones then?

 

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11 hours ago, Crash Cramer said:

cool, it is a MONSTER, I still can't leave a comment even though I am signed in. I really like what you did with it, it is different.

Thanks. It's been sitting on my shelf for ages but I'm sure I'm not done with it yet. There's so much I plan to do to it... once I up my CAD designing skills. :D 

11 hours ago, Crash Cramer said:

Also, good idea I had??? If I had DONE it, that would have been a good idea, so I could report on its effectiveness. :D

Do it? That's also a good idea. :D

8 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Cool stuff thanks a lot, Once I get my Striker up and running I'll surely start tinkering with it at the edges, the battery door is stored away for the future too cheers, great work.

Even without upgrades it's a pretty decent model as long as you don't decide to thrash it beyond silly. Of all the chassis' I've had broken only one of them was while it was under my control. The first two were broken because my brother decided to ram the bumper against something hard (1st: The tail end of a slide in a playground, 2nd: A concrete curb), at full speed, in order to make it jump. The last was when he decided to ram me head on, at full speed, with his 11T Mad Bull right after I specifically told him not to drive anywhere near me... because he's generally an badword and doesn't give a hoot about destroying my stuff. :angry: 

8 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

I really like your Striker in your showroom, such a mosh mash of other parts beautifully mounded together, I'm going to go investigate the CRP suspension kit right now, think I posted on KonteMax's thread about the Sonic Fighter front suspension mount and it's good to see it again on your example, nice looking shocks you have.

Did the Striker come with friction shocks all round and if so are the rears easy to replace with oil filled ones then?

It came with frictions on the rear and pogo sticks on the front. Changing out the rears isn't difficult as it uses the same size damper as the Monster Beetle, CVA Short units. If you swap out the front tower for the Sonic Fighter one then you'd need to get the CVA Mini units. I believe that's what KonteMax has fitted to his. I lucked out when I did my conversion as a complete set of NIB Hi-Cap dampers came up pretty cheap(ish) on eBay. They're similar to the original Avante shocks and they are very, very nice, especially when you consider what comes as standard on the Striker. I also got the springs kits for both sizes so I was pretty much set right away. The old Hi-Caps still pop up on eBay every once in a while but they're kinda pricey nowadays and almost never NIB anymore.

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Lol your brother sounds like my brother, that's probably lke most brothers!

Cool stuff I've got my bearings set now forthe direction I can take this Striker, I'm going for the SF front tower to fit oil shocks, that's a pretty easy mod and the parts are available on Ebay right now, the car should arrive tomorrow hopefully, will post up some poto's to show what condition it is in, sounds like it's in good shape from the description.

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On 3/5/2017 at 4:09 PM, VagabondStarJXF said:

It took the best part of the day but I've drawn up the proper body posts for the M04 chassis. I'll need to print off and test fit them before I make them available but I don't know how soon or how far away that'll be as I still need to buy a few more parts for my Bigwig build. Until then, for my M04, I just need to finalise the new spacer I need for the next project.

M-04 Body Posts - small.jpg

Wow... um i need a copy of this.  I'm building an M04L with a non-standard body... next week!

Also I have a pet project for making some scale Lancia Stratos wheels for m-chassis cars, I could use some expertise.

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4 hours ago, firefoxussr said:

Wow... um i need a copy of this.  I'm building an M04L with a non-standard body... next week!

Also I have a pet project for making some scale Lancia Stratos wheels for m-chassis cars, I could use some expertise.

Did you need the holes in the above orientation? I ask because I mistakenly put the front post's holes front to back instead of side to side on that particular version. I've corrected it for my prototype print order but if you need these specific ones I can make them available after I've tested fitment.

As for the wheels... ? What do they look like and what offset are you in need of? I've done up basic blanks for RC wheel rims, in various sizes, so all I'd need is that info in order to draw up the 'spokes/face' section and set it to the required offset.

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11 hours ago, VagabondStarJXF said:

Did you need the holes in the above orientation? I ask because I mistakenly put the front post's holes front to back instead of side to side on that particular version. I've corrected it for my prototype print order but if you need these specific ones I can make them available after I've tested fitment.

As for the wheels... ? What do they look like and what offset are you in need of? I've done up basic blanks for RC wheel rims, in various sizes, so all I'd need is that info in order to draw up the 'spokes/face' section and set it to the required offset.

Oh the orientation of the bodyclip holes is a non-issue for my build.  I'm looking to make rear body posts that extend further towards the back of the chassis to hold a non-standard body.   I'll make a post about that and mention you on the build thread.

As for the wheels, I want to make the 'coffin spoke' wheels that many Stratos had in 1:1.   I would think best size is the standard mini cooper wheel size, as this is for any m-chassis car.  I'm guessing for most cars it's just like the Cup Racer 3mm offset front, 6mm rear.
221_0_z.jpg

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5 hours ago, firefoxussr said:

Oh the orientation of the bodyclip holes is a non-issue for my build.  I'm looking to make rear body posts that extend further towards the back of the chassis to hold a non-standard body.   I'll make a post about that and mention you on the build thread.

Further back? How much further back? And how tall is the point where the body will eventually mount?

5 hours ago, firefoxussr said:

As for the wheels, I want to make the 'coffin spoke' wheels that many Stratos had in 1:1.   I would think best size is the standard mini cooper wheel size, as this is for any m-chassis car.  I'm guessing for most cars it's just like the Cup Racer 3mm offset front, 6mm rear.
221_0_z.jpg

Oh, those wheels... Nice... I'll see what I can conjure up. How much detail are you hoping for? Obviously I can't go too detailed or the wheel nut won't fit...

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18 hours ago, VagabondStarJXF said:

Further back? How much further back? And how tall is the point where the body will eventually mount?

Oh, those wheels... Nice... I'll see what I can conjure up. How much detail are you hoping for? Obviously I can't go too detailed or the wheel nut won't fit...

Regarding the body post- not sure, will check.  It's an M04L mounting a Lancia 037 body.

Regarding the wheels- a reasonable compromise.  I think that if the roots of the spokes are moved outward it would work well.

 

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On ‎24‎/‎03‎/‎2017 at 0:52 PM, firefoxussr said:

Regarding the body post- not sure, will check.  It's an M04L mounting a Lancia 037 body.

Regarding the wheels- a reasonable compromise.  I think that if the roots of the spokes are moved outward it would work well.

 

I'll see what I can knock up. I'll post up some pics then.

edit:

M-Chassis Coffin Spoke 3mm Offset 02.jpg

These are the 3mm offset wheels. Not bad so far, even if I do say so myself :P:D

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On 3/24/2017 at 11:39 AM, VagabondStarJXF said:

I'll see what I can knock up. I'll post up some pics then.

pic

These are the 3mm offset wheels. Not bad so far, even if I do say so myself :P:D

:blink: Um you are too modest!  I've spent hours trying to draw something that nice.

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@firefoxussrHere's pics of the finalized M-Chassis Coffin Spokes:

 

M-Chassis Wheels Coffin Spoke 3mm Offset.jpg

With 3mm Offset.

 

M-Chassis Wheels Coffin Spoke 6mm Offset.jpg

With 6mm Offset.

 

I've set them up as pairs to help cut costs down. The wheels are connected by a small 'sprue' post that'll need to be trimmed off.

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Good job on the wheels! They look great :) 

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My latest order of test prints arrived!

DSC_0045a.thumb.jpg.874ba6536b613cd34bb0b27ab5fe53e5.jpg

Everything looks nice. :)

 

DSC_0054a.thumb.jpg.865019b032e6669cf36bf5069d1bb8c9.jpg

My Grasshopper, Hornet, CW01 Diff lock fits! Amazingly, the slop I tried to get rid of with my first attempt... It's gone! How did I manage that?

 

DSC_0061a.thumb.jpg.efebb1641f47d0e54ffa0d5221824e85.jpg

I've also corrected my TA05 M-Four battery mount. Now it's fully secured to the chassis and doesn't impede the fitment & removal of the battery. Added bonus: More clearance for the rear wheels.

 

DSC_0065a.thumb.jpg.83f8a9574c15593b6b69736121a6e5c4.jpg

My M04 247mm Chassis Spacer and body posts.

DSC_0077a.thumb.jpg.9d30fef6f32cdb9cd456108601e6a5ff.jpg

 They're tight but they fit. :) 

 

DSC_0083a.thumb.jpg.f005d8b4bbc79b5ec5c096a3fe2caa4b.jpg

A new version of the Dummy Servo. It's got a lot tighter fit. It's really tight TBH but it's just right to keep my wheels straight.

 

And last but not least...

DSC_0046a.thumb.jpg.5af34a5a8dd956849263b1397c8598cd.jpg

My DT02 to TL01 arms. It's the first step to redoing my re-re Holiday Buggy so I haven't fitted them yet. Once fitted I can start designing/redesigning the other parts to complete the suspension setup I desire.

 

So I'm pretty pleased with the results as everything fits together really, REALLY, well.

I was really surprised with the Grasshopper/Hornet/CW01 Diff Lock. I'd tried to remove the side to side slop from the drivetrain on my first version and it went horridly wrong, not just rubbing against the spur gear but also binding up completely once I screwed the gearbox back together. On this new version I'd purposely omitted that idea to have just a standard diff lock, figuring the slop would be something I'll just have to live with, and when I fitted it the slop disappeared. There's just no more side to side movement on the axle... and there's no binding issue or rubbing/grinding of the gears!?! I still don't get how I managed that. One little niggle about it. It was a bit of a tight fit to get the axle shafts into the diff halves. I had to find something hard to push them all the way into position but I figured that's a good thing, right?

The new version of the Dummy Servo is also a very tight fit but that one was actually on purpose. My initial prototype was just a little too loose so I retook the measurements and went up by 0.01mm. That made things really tight but, once everything is fitted together, it's just snug enough to allow only sluggish movement. Pretty much perfect for a display, I think, so wheels can be turned to the desired position and it'll hold in that position.

My M04 bits also turned out nicely. Fitment was tight, again, but also in a good way. The body posts have no front to back wobble like the new body posts I'd only fitted a few weeks back. The spacer's screw holes needed a quick clear out of excess printer powder but otherwise no issues. I was concerned because I had trouble aligning the screw holes properly but, in the end, it all fitted as it should without any modification. My M04 project is coming back as a bigger model. :D 

The TA05 M-Four Battery Holder... My first attempt was actually really good and I was really pleased with it. Then I tried to push a battery in and out a few times and figured I could do with more clearance between the battery and the belt and the battery and the rear wheels. Instead of redrawing from scratch I decided to keep the top bars as they were. I'd designed them to be able to hold the battery in place anyway so redoing them seemed a bit pointless. I connected the side pieces instead of having left and right pieces. Then I 'chopped' the ends to allow a battery to be slid in straight instead of at a downward angle as I had had to with the previous version. There was also a slight issue with the screw holes not being close enough so I moved them in a bit and put a nub in between them to sit in the chassis' cutouts. When reprinting I just ordered the new front and rear pieces and, upon arrival, everything just fits beautifully. Now I just need to order the screws & washers I want in order to make it all look nice.

Lastly... My DT02 to TL01 arms. I liked my Holiday Buggy when I first built it. I was kinda impressed with myself for converting the front suspension to IFS and narrowing the track to better suit the body shell aesthetically... Then I didn't run it... Ever... and things started breaking. This obviously started bothering me so I decided that, before I order a replacement gearbox (an upper suspension mount had snapped), and before I build my Sand Rover, I was going to redesign all the modifications so that I could apply them to either model. As I started working away I realised that I couldn't design everything together if I wanted to get things right so first to be designed and printed had to be the lower arms. Now that they're here I can design adjustable upper arms and redesign my IFS setup to be more 'plug-n-play' than 'too much sway'. There's a long road ahead on this one...

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Nice!! Sad I missed seeing these parts, as I was on holiday last week. I'm sure I would've recognized them. Oh well, next time. They look great in the pictures! Love that more people are getting into printing their own parts. There's so much cool stuff available now.B)

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I think these are finished, drawing/designing wise, so I guess I'll update this post to get some opinions.

I've been working with Grastens and njmlondon, over the last month or so, on drawing up some ORV Lancia Rally wheels. I don't have one of these models so, thanks to njmlondon graciously lending me a pair of his wheels for a bit, I was able to start developing these:

 

The Fronts:

59163634abbb3_LanciaRallyWheel-Front-001small.jpg.8012f0b178dd8a709affe5fbaa2040e4.jpg

The front wheel has been redesigned to bring the face outward without having to remove as much offset and, at the same time, enabling me the option of putting the fins in place. Bringing the face forward meant that I couldn't put in the mock lugnuts I'd done on the M-Chassis Lancia 037 wheels because, basically, they caused problems when I had them where I thought they looked good and it just looked wrong the further out I went in order to get them to work. Anyways, the front wheels have been brought in a bit with -2mm offset.

 

The Rears:

59163633d08bd_LanciaRallyWheel-Rear-001Small.jpg.e9e90311f1d65d62a287f7c4f6818edc.jpg

59163632c7fb6_LanciaRallyWheel-Rear-002Small.jpg.f4f17a79c2fe547015daa1803312c565.jpg

The rears were a different problem. I'd drawn up the classic 2WD, 5-point, hub mount for my DF03 tyre sized, 2WD buggy wheels but they proved to be very difficult to dismantle, probably because they're an earlier effort of mine, so I just couldn't get them to 'work' for me. Not a problem. I redrew it. It turns out that I probably would've needed to redraw it anyway because of the way they're 'cut out' compared to the other 2WD rear wheels (e.g. Sand Scorcher, Rough Rider, etc.). The offset on the rear wheels has been increased by +2mm and, obviously, I had to forego adding the mock lugnuts in order to match the front wheels. I'm hoping that the narrower front and wider rear will help this model gain a better overall look.

 

So what does everyone think?

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I forgot to put up pics of the final version of the M-Chassis wheels I drew up for firefoxussr's Lancia projects:

Lancia Stratos 'Coffin Spoke' style:

left - Front wheel with 3mm Offset

right - Rear wheel with 6mm Offset

5916429734931_M-ChassisCoffin-Spoke-Finalsmall.thumb.jpg.f1221818e042ccd033134963874c4d3c.jpg

Pics of his Stratos.

IMG_20170416_170926783_zpsy2rpg6tj.thumb.jpg.9fec87467c2ea189dde79cca480c37e3.jpg

IMG_20170416_170940758_zpsaugp6syo.thumb.jpg.f38e04199907d409aa9c5cf4c012c45a.jpg

 

Lancia 037 Style:

left - Front wheel with fins and 3mm Offset

right - Rear wheel without fins and 6mm Offset

59164296249db_M-ChassisWheels-037Style-Finalsmall.thumb.jpg.cc34b19678e9dd49a8eac8d1271fc796.jpg

Post below shows pic of his 037.

IMG_20170418_172224798_zpsutw88dge.thumb.jpg.6e06a5d0d4826d016b04d9ce06a50e8e.jpg

IMG_20170418_172254346_zpsx1odise5.thumb.jpg.d5bd93cfcfdfa9c933f1606d62f29a55.jpg

 

Edit:

Linking seems to be a bit off so I've done the 'copy & paste' thing for posts of his models.

 

Edit 2: The Sequel

Changed out post links for firefoxussr's pics. (Thanks again for letting me repost. :) )

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It's been a while... again... since I'd posted anything. My Mom was diagnosed with a cerebral aneurism a couple of months ago and was booked in for endoscopic surgery. That operation only happened almost 2 weeks ago and she's now recovering nicely (and safely) at home. Obviously this meant that I had other more important things on my mind than my RC stuff so I'm only now getting back to working on stuff. I've mainly been trying to finish the connecting bracket for my Detolf cabinets. I'd bought three 2nd hand cabinets so it turns out I've got two slightly different ones, probably because of a difference in age or perhaps country of manufacture. I'm not entirely sure if that bracket is sorted out so I'm going to have to order up a set and keep my fingers crossed that they're ok. Since that piece was finished last night I've decided to bump a certain project up to the top of the list.
 
Thanks to @firefoxussr I want a Lancia Stratos of my own but on an M04 chassis. Now the problem is that the M04 chassis is only capable of a minimum 225mm wheelbase and the HPI Stratos shell is 210mm. I'm aware of Blackholesun's project to put this same shell on an M04M, and the way the "end product" was acheived, but I didn't like the way it was done with the arms. How am I gonna get around that? I'm going to redesign the centre chassis piece of the M04 to give me the M04S/210mm wheelbase I desire, that's what I'm gonna do! I don't know if it'll be worth putting up for sale afterwards due to costs but, if anyone expresses interest, I'll consider adding it to my shop.
 
In the meantime here's a pic of the beginnings of the chassis...
 
59415d091cbe4_M04SChassis001.jpg.ca6628c6e3b6c18c458263949d226354.jpg
 
It isn't much to look at right now, I know, but that's because I'm a bit out of practice again and it took me all day to get this far. The plan for this chassis, besides being designed to achieve the 210mm wheelbase I'm after, is to be symmetrical and do away with the M04's battery enclosure. It'd mean having to fit the battery holders from the TL01 or MF01x to fit a standard size stick pack. I'm also going to redesign those bits too in order to hold a shorter 4/5 Sub-C stick pack because I've kinda developed a fondness for the shorter pack. I'd considered messing with the steering setup but decided to keep things simple to make this centre chassis a direct drop in part.
 
As it's early on (very early on) in the design stage, I'm open to suggestions for other alterations. Post up on here to let me know.

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A 3D printed spacer similar to this was my dream when putting this chassis together. 

IMG_0269_zpstjxl7icn.jpg~original

Though I just needed a Tamiya spacer to take  my wheelbase to 205mm.

I'm following these developments with great interest.

 

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1 hour ago, Badcrumble said:

A 3D printed spacer similar to this was my dream when putting this chassis together. 

IMG_0269_zpstjxl7icn.jpg~original

Though I just needed a Tamiya spacer to take  my wheelbase to 205mm.

I'm following these developments with great interest.

 

Is that a dual motor half M04 and half M03/5 hybrid build? Nice!

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16 minutes ago, VagabondStarJXF said:

Is that a dual motor half M04 and half M03/5 hybrid build? Nice!

It is! My spacer is formed of two ABS plates, each of them made up of layered ABS sheets. I think some JB Weld will be required to strengthen them.

Yet to have a shakedown test...

 

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It's taken almost 2 weeks but here it is...

595279b2b3ced_M04SChassis003.thumb.jpg.045b30e0c62e1140331d6bf0cea20f71.jpg

 

I've made both halves symmetrical, as planned, and tried to hollow out as much of the chassis as I could, just like the original chassis, to save on weight and materials. I've also done a slight modification to the servo area of the underside. Hopefully I've increased the clearance enough to allow the servo saver to be unscrewed without having to unscrew the whole chassis. Other than that... There's not much else to say about it until I get a test print done.

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