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JennyMo

Desmond (the 2.2) - narrowed HiLux cage crawler

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As usual your works with plastics are nothing short of magical :D

I was wondering what is your method to paint/finish the window rubbers of your vehicles. Do you use the enamel pen or you go with some type of masking tape?

Again, your custom work is fantastic.

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18 hours ago, mongoose1983 said:

As usual your works with plastics are nothing short of magical :D

I was wondering what is your method to paint/finish the window rubbers of your vehicles. Do you use the enamel pen or you go with some type of masking tape?

Again, your custom work is fantastic.

Hi Mongoose - thank you for your kind words!

If you read back to the middle of the previous page (when I start detailing the vehicle after the main paint and carbon-fibre bonnet was fitted), you'll see I used Tamiya XF-85 'Rubber black' acrylic paint, and a small brush to apply it - having masked the surround with tape first and a sharp knife to cut the tape along the edges of the window rubber moulding to provide a sharp line.

i-DmPbwZR-XL.jpg

Hope that helps!

Jenny x

 

 

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OK, just a quick update for now...

As you may recall, earlier this year we left Louis Willy trying to work out if he (or any other driver) might be able to climb into the cab - so in that regard, I thought I might have a go at something that I'd seen on other chassis-cab crawlers and truggies, and cut the doors down to reveal more of the interior. 

Although I was aware that the centre mounted gearbox and motor really precludes including a proper scale interior like I'd managed with Lisa's Defender, I hoped the extra exterior detail coupled with him effectively sitting on top of the bare transmission assembly would ultimately add to the overall industrial/mechanical look of this vehicle?

i-tnhxMKV-XL.jpg

i-xhDVRHn-XL.jpg

photo. I decided to retain the lower panel of each door, to give structural rigidity - not least for the shell mounting holes - and [for now at least] retain some of the weathered paintwork.

Since I'd already narrowed the cab by 40mm, I'd concluded that an 'extreme' vehicle like this would most likely have a central driving position anyway (and being 4WS on ultra heavy-duty axles, factored if it were a real 1:1 vehicle the steering would almost certainly have to be hydraulic too - so that's my excuse for the axle mounted servos... ;o), which in turn meant that Willy would actually be able to grab onto the internal roll-cage in a realistic pose:

i-FZ44S5B-XL.jpg

photo. modified bucket seat from a Wild Willy 2 shell.

 

i-nv6W4ZV-XL.jpg

photo. from this angle you can't tell he ain't got no legs below the knees!

As you can see it's been quite the squeeze to get the Wild Willy 2 seat and driver in the space between the gearbox and the forward bulkhead/battery, and it has meant he's had to lose his boots (for now at least) - but I think the overall effect is still pretty realistic?

note. ultimately having him hanging onto the roll-cage means the driver figure will remain attached to the shell even when it's removed for access/servicing - making things very easy in that regard, especially as currently the shell is only attached with four screws (two along each sill).

You may also notice I've incorporated a dashboard too (to help hide the top of the battery) - using a cut-down Wild Willy 2 part and some styrene:

i-fwLMzKP-XL.jpg

...and fabricated some deep/wide door sills using styrene which mate up inside with the inner wheel-arches - and will ultimately be covered in [genuine] aluminium tread-plate to keep things even more scale and authentic.

 

The other thing I did which is not really obvious in these pictures is to remount the body a couple of mm lower, using some commercially available body mounts from eBay (designed to mate a Trailfinder shell to an SCX10 chassis) which turned out to be a very similar shape to my 2nd generation styrene mock-ups I'd been using previously. Fortunately I can confirm that the tyres still clear the front arches and rear cage rails, even on full articulation and lock - Result!

I had also decided to modify the rear cage (sorry, I forgot to take photos of the actual process - but basically, using a Stanley knife, heat-gun and Dr. Dremel) so that there is less overhang at the rear - while retaining the full length of the alloy deck panels that come as part of the Vaterra rear cage kit.

i-kcGzP6T-XL.jpg

i-483XwtJ-XL.jpg

Obviously there is still a lot of finishing to do - fabricating some door jams, plus I have some padded roll-cage tubes I want to incorporate as horizontal bars halfway up the door apertures... Then I need to properly secure Willy in the cab and touch in all the paintwork; and also finalise my plan for a rear fuel tank to fill in the space between the cage deck and the chassis rails. Ultimately, I also intend to add a few scale accessories to the interior and rear deck of the vehicle, although keeping in mind that it's primary function is as an actual crawler, everything will need to remain well tucked in and properly secured in the event of a roll-over.

However, for the next few weeks I'm actually going to be busy moving house - so for the time being, Desmond has been boxed up for transit - turns out he's now exactly 12x18 inches!

i-GVWzWFx-XL.jpg

All these latest mods have re-inspired me to get going on this particular project again, so stand-by for more just as soon as I can...

Jenny x

 

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Thank you!

I forgot to add this photo I took recently of the original STUMPkin alongside it's bigger and more flexible brother!

i-TTvsGSH-XL.jpg

As part of my house move, the STUMPkin is now going to stay here in the UK with my friend Julie (who got me into the whole Tamiya thing in the first place - see my TL-01/F150 build)... while Desmond is coming with me to pastures (and prairies) new...

Jx

 

 

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Cool builds.  Glad I saw this build, I've been thinking about putting my Sawback on a different chassis with a longer wheelbase, but didn't want to chop an rc4wd chassis.

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On 10/7/2018 at 7:15 PM, Willys 53 said:

Cool builds.  Glad I saw this build, I've been thinking about putting my Sawback on a different chassis with a longer wheelbase, but didn't want to chop an rc4wd chassis.

Hi Willys - yes, the chassis I used was one of those 'Trailfinder for SCX10 RC4WD D90' style replicas you get on eBay from China - very versatile with regard to 4 link or even leaf springs if you prefer. My wheelbase is pretty much exactly 300mm at the moment, but just changing the lengths of the links give you plenty of options...

note. I also used the same chassis on Lisa's D90 truck cab: www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/84050-ok-tc-land-rover-d90-scale-crawler/ and that has a wheelbase around 275mm as I recall.

Jx

 

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On 10/8/2018 at 4:42 AM, PoormanRC said:

Seriously Jenny, these are BETTER than a lot of the Rigs I see on SBG, and the other "Holier than Thou" Scaler Forums.... And more Fun too!!

~ Carmine 💥

Thank you Carmine - I'm very flattered! I have to say, I'm amazed at some of the detailing (and great photography) on that forum, and it's certainly inspired me to try my hand at more scale realistic builds recently... not sure mine are quite 'true scale' for them yet, as I always like to include a comic twist in my builds - but certainly Lisa's D90 (mentioned above) is getting close to the sort of thing you get on there.

In fact as a little teaser - I've been assembling a bunch of parts over the summer with a view to embarking on a new winter project (once Desmond is finished) based on the Tamiya Wrangler body and scale/era-appropriate leaf-spring chassis. This is particularly one I'd like to build as scale as possible, and so it might well find it's way onto the SBG too eventually... but you'll see it here first on Tamiya Club of course! - stay tuned as they say ;o)

Jenny x

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4 hours ago, PoormanRC said:

 

I'd Post my Wraith on here, but it's not made by Tamiya!! :P cheers my newest Friend!

~ Carmine 💥

Not to hijack the thread, but I would like to see your Wraith. You can post it in the section called Other Makes, here:

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/forum/22-other-makes/

Here's my Wraith Spawn and @Only4Fun's Wraiths.

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/86982-my-axial-wraith-spawn/

 

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OK then, now I'm back in the US for a few weeks, I've rather foolishly embarked on juggling three different scaler/crawler builds at the same time it appears!

With a bunch of new parts arriving for my newest project (a leaf-sprung scale trail runner, using a Tamiya YJ Wranger body), I also made a few updates to Lisa's Land Rover Defender, and as such felt poor old Desmond was now dropping behind in the 'scaler' department... time to readdress that then!

Having originally boxed him up for the house move [a few posts above], I'd then stuck him in my suitcase, along with all my tools and spares, and decamped to sunny California to get to work!

First job was to try and sort the rear end (under the cage) and fabricate some kind of fuel cell and infill panels...

i-NPnk9CR-XL.jpg

photo. I'd already elected to remove the rear chassis plate (that can be used for a battery mount) as it interfered with the rear steering servo on full compression - as I'd really like this build to remain as performance-biased as possible, and not compromised with regard to articulation.

 

I had considered using a pair of oil drum/beer kegs as fuel tanks under the rear alloy deck, but again their location would have compromised the ability for the rear axle to fully compress if required... instead I've fabricated a styrene box that will be clad with aluminium checker-plate on the sides, with an alloy top and neck/filler cap at the rear to represent a traditional fuel cell:

i-FmV9K3w-XL.jpg

photo. this is only 1mm styrene, but will be strong enough once the aluminium sheet has been glued to it - since it's not a supporting structure at all anyway...

 

Similarly at the front, my efforts to reposition the battery forward (so that Willy and what was left of most of his legs) would fit in the open cab, meant the front servo hit the bottom of the battery on full compression - not ideal either.

But then I had a revelation!

i-Px6kmqM-XL.jpg

photo. I removed my original styrene assembly above the prop that supported the battery...

 

i-9BtKzTS-XL.jpg

photo. ...and repositioned the battery widthways instead!

 

I don't know why I hadn't tried this way round before to be honest (I'd tried every other permutation that's for sure!) - and although it is a really snug fit between the two shock towers*, the battery fits perfectly below the bonnet line, while allowing the servo to extend into the space below where the radio gear will sit in the engine bay - result!

*I may ultimately use some hoop style shock towers on the outside of the chassis rails too, to give a little more room for the battery and wiring to pass by... EDIT. and I have!

In fact, with the battery in this widthways location, there is now actually more footwell room in the cab and under the dash - enough perhaps for Willy to have his feet reinstated after all?!

i-gJwbCxP-XL.jpg

photo. I experimented with a completely flat floor, before deciding that his feet were more important for those scale detail 'points'...

 

i-TX2MSKn-XL.jpg

photo. I simply extended the wide sills further inboard - these panels will be covered with more aluminium checker-plate anyway to hide the join.

 

i-qGSxdZ7-XL.jpg

photo. these wide sill/floor panels will be perfect for hiding all the wiring below, and as a useful location for some scale accessories in the cab too!

cont.

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cont.

While there is still a hint of 'RC' underneath the driver's seat, I actually like the industrial look of it all - and the extended floor panels will now essentially mask any 'not true scale' elements while the vehicle is actually running... and of course Willy's big ol' head isn't true scale anyway!

You'll also notice that Willy himself is now currently tacked onto the cage and dash (with superglue), and fortunately the seat just clears the gearbox - meaning the whole driver/seat assembly remains attached to the shell whenever it needs to be removed, which is exactly what I wanted...

More soon, paint is drying!

Jenny x

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Right, something had been bugging me about this current/revised set-up... I loved the fact the battery can actually be incorporated into the engine bay with enough room for Willy to keep his boots on, but the mounting was compromised... nothing for it but to change the [internally mounted] front shock towers, and fabricate a whole new engine bay then!

note. because of the delay in parts for my Leafer build, I decided to donate the Gelande II shock hoops to Desmond and buy some more for the YJ - which in turn allowed me to re-design and widen the original engine bay.

i-nKZFSm8-XL.jpg

photo. Out with the plasti-card again!

 

i-spDC9R5-XL.jpg

photo. New engine bay is wider (to the outside of the chassis-rails, but still sitting on top of them), and has a stepped floor to locate the square-pack battery.

 

i-zzgPjrX-XL.jpg

photo. Initially tacked together with super-glue, I then beefed up all the joints with a good coating of Araldite*.

*note. I'd brought some over from the UK with me, but am now running low so have taken the precaution of buying the JBWeld equivalent 2-part epoxy to ensure I continue to have plenty here.

 

i-cKWcsjT-XL.jpg

photo. A coat of primer and it's basically the same as before, just a touch more roomy - note the cut-outs to clear the chassis rails and keep the battery as low as possible without fouling either the front axle servo or the transmission/radius arms, even on full compression.

 

I also had to modify the current inner front wheel-arches, to clear the top of the new shock towers:

i-TfB7BT6-XL.jpg

photo. you can see the dashboard assembly has also been secured with a good coat of Araldite - this thing ought to be super-tough now!

 

So with the new engine-bay and battery in place, there ought to be enough room for 100% Willy now!

i-3vJmRvK-XL.jpg

 

cont.

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cont.

Along with painting the new engine bay and the rear 'fuel cell' assembly, I also took the opportunity to blow over the rest of the main shell with grey primer (typical - US primer is a little lighter in shade than the stuff in was using back in the UK, or maybe Desmond was just a bit dirty now of course ;o)

i-RXmdd68-XL.jpg

photo. that will teach me for gluing the driver in already!

 

i-jPdtjHX-XL.jpg

photo. rear sub-deck assembly primed...

 

i-fPt5dT8-XL.jpg

photo. and aluminium foil [for the top of the fuel cell] and scale aluminium checker-plate cladding for the sides glued on.

 

With all the parts now painted and dry, it was time to add some more metal panels to the interior floor:

i-KrMz3h8-XL.jpg

photo. It was too much to try and work out the pattern upside down, so I simply stuck masking tape to the textured surface of the aluminium checker-plate, and transferred my initial measurements to that...

 

i-SH5N9Xg-XL.jpg

photo. super-glue 'gel' was used to attach the panels...

 

i-NxBSTDG-XL.jpg

photo. I have to say, I was really pleased with how these turned out - just the effect I was after!

 

i-4zHMwnr-XL.jpg

photo. another benefit of having such deep side-sills/floor panels now, is that the supplementary wiring can be hidden underneath. These are the strings for the front and rear lights, and the Axial controller will also be mounted under this right hand side sill.

 

More soon... I'm currently in the process of finishing off the main wiring, and adding a few finishing touches to help lift this [primarily performance based vehicle] up to the standard of my other scale builds.

Jenny x

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So, following on from above, I re-routed the wiring in the engine bay to try and minimise any excess - to leave the now open cabin clear as much as possible, and also so that I might recharge the battery without having to remove the body-shell (even though that is only 4 screws) - the Tamiya battery plug now being accessible from underneath, above the front prop-shaft.

i-5MsWsSP-XL.jpg

photo. The 6-cell 'square' battery now fits snuggly on the shelf between the Rx/ESC, and ought to be held in place by Willy's new boots*, while the power on/off switch is still/even more easily accessible by reaching inside the cab from the right hand side.

*I've decided to buy a new Wild Willy driver sprue for the main body/arms/boots and will relegate 'Dirty Willy' to test driver in future projects.

 

With Desmond a rockin' and a rollin' under his own power again, it was time to add a few details:

i-dKXGjxR-XL.jpg

photo. First of all, I'd been inspired to try this from a build thread on another forum (Scale Builders Guild I think) - a decoupage of sponsor stickers as a headlining in the cabin - I think it's pretty effective?

 

Since I was on a roll with my sticker stash now, I thought I'd also start to decorate the dashboard (note. I will still have to use paint to detail the radio/cassette player)...

i-Z3MSR3m-XL.jpg

photo. Since I used a Wild Willy dash panel, it makes sense to also use the decal for the dials - however, rather than sticking it directly onto the primer paint I backed it with self-adhesive aluminium foil...

 

i-7cDnxVj-XL.jpg

photo. ... trimmed it to fit...

 

i-pM3DcBM-XL.jpg

photo. Which I trust you'll agree is even more effective?

 

i-gtcQdNv-XL.jpg

photo. A few more stickers on the rear aluminium panels - these are a mix from the Tamiya crawler sheet, plus as a homage to my first 'scale' build: the Fro-Sco - some Kolor Works decals from the re-re Sand Scorcher kit.

 

Then it was time to get really nerdy...

cont.

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cont.

Having fabricated a sub-deck to box-in the space under the tuber rear cage assembly, I'd already incorporated a 'fuel cell' at the rear (which still allows the rear steering servo to clear on full compression), and to finish that off, I added a floor panel in front so that I can utilise that space for a couple of fuel cans:

i-twsBK65-XL.jpg

photo. more plasti-card, clad with real aluminium scale checker-plate - love this stuff!

 

i-pq96vCT-XL.jpg

photo. What's this?

 

i-76nbnbb-XL.jpg
photo. the fuel-filler neck of course!

I was really please with the way that turned out - I used a short section of aluminium tube (8mm diameter), cut to length so that it could be secured with Araldite on either side (note. the glue on the outside will be touched in with silver paint to represent aluminium weld), while the filler cap is one [of three] in the DJDesigns Land Rover filler recess kit.

cont.

 

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cont.

However, I then felt I needed to out-nerd even myself...

Some of you may recall from Lisa's Truck-Cab D90 build: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/84050-ok-tc-land-rover-d90-scale-crawler/, that I scratch-built a rear tail-gate bolt latch, using tiny pieces of plasti-card, a bent [Tamiya] steering rod, and a length of screw to represent the spring section:

i-JBCSvJq-XL.jpg

 

...and although hard to spot at an initial glance perhaps, I feel details like this add to the authenticity of any scale build?

i-spMnFHg-XL.jpg

 

So for Desmond, I wanted to include something similar - and since there was already a hole in the front scuttle panel where one of the wipers would locate [had I not narrowed the cab and left out the windscreen], I had a moment of inspiration - prompted by a seemingly innocuous triangular decal in my sticker stash:

i-LTpqzDk-XL.jpg

photo. what is this? - an axle pin and a tiny piece of 1mm thick styrene...

 

i-BZktSZJ-XL.jpg

photo. ...cut, sanded and painted red...

 

i-9mjSj47-XL.jpg

photo. ...a battery cut-off switch of course!

note. ...realistically located so that either the driver or someone outside can reach it in an emergency ;o)

 

All I need to do now is touch in some of the black paint that suffered a touch of overspray (I want to buy some pukka Tamiya 'rubber black' for the windscreen surround, and matt black for touching in where my Araldite 'welds' are on the cage etc.), add a little weathering and black-wash here and there, and ultimately swap Willy's race suit for a pale blue and decal'd version once those parts arrive in the post...

But for now, I intend to take a few photos of the beast [posed] in action outside - just as soon as it stops raining here in the Bay Area!

More soon...

Jenny x

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Just a quick update - still not had time or the weather to get outside for some photos, so spent yesterday touching in a few more details...

i-j7fqxw4-XL.jpg

photo. I spent too much money on frivolity at my LHS at the weekend - including these ProLine accessories are just that much better finished than the cheaper ebay/Chinese copy equivalents...

I've already got this set - which includes a water jug, fuel jug and fire extinguisher (plus a crappy shovel that is out of scale) - coming in the post already, but saw another set on the rack in the shop and had to have them - so there will be a pair of red fuel cans in the recesses in front of the fuel cell, one of the fire extinguishers in the cab, and one other for my Jeep build too. The water jugs are currently multiplying in the corner of Louis and Ozzy's workshop (since I already have one left over from Lisa's D90 build too):

i-RFDPH2z-XL.jpg

photo. "Look, another one dad!" "Oooooh nooooo!"

 

i-8BVBMPM-XL.jpg

photo. Scale sand ladders [from DJ Designs in the UK, and brought over with me], secured with bolts and wing nuts.

note. I've subsequently Dremel'd the wing-nuts to more closely represent real spinners, and painted them black.

I also touched in with silver paint around the filler neck, and added a little black-wash to the body creases - oh, and ground away the moulded vents on the B-pillars (they looked ok originally, but with so many coats of paint now, they've lost definition, and I prefer the simpler just-prepped look for the main shell).

So with any luck, I'll have some photos of the truck running outside tomorrow - then all there really is left to do now is paint the new driver body once those parts arrive...

More soon!

Jenny x

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Well, while the weather (although goodness knows we need the rain here in California) and the US postal service continues to scupper my plans for some 'final' photos (still no new body for my driver) - I thought I'd nerd a few more scale details and share those with you for the time being...

 

i-zv2929t-XL.jpg

photo. a flat-black wash to help highlight the edges and details, and make them look less 'new'.

 

The good news is my second set of ProLine accessories turned up, so I could mount the pair of fuel cans in the recess in the rear deck, plus I highlighted the edges on the fire extinguisher too - even though ultimately I decided to tuck it away almost out of sight on the righthand B-pillar:

i-QhtHgc8-XL.jpg

note. Ideally I'll get another set of Wild Willy 2 decals to help finish this build, since I want a Willy and Tamiya logo for the driver's new sleeves, plus you get the NOS and fire extinguisher labels too. The remaining smaller sponsor stickers will also be handy for the Jeep and/or the Land Rover too I'm sure ;o)

 

The next accessory detail I was particularly proud of:

i-97hH6Cq-XL.jpg

photo. That is a 3D printed milk crate (from US ebay), the bottle from the Ozzy Osbourne figure, a Pennzoil waterslide decal I had already, and some blue paper shop towel cut into inch squares and soaked with real old engine oil! (all superglued together - although not sure how well the oily rags will hold of course).

 

i-ntFggSC-XL.jpg

photo. finally a little black washing on the label and cap too, of course.

 

On the lefthand side, I wanted to mount a small beer keg which I'd got as part of another accessory set years ago, and never really found a place for it in any of my other builds...

i-CBRPK4Q-XL.jpg

photo. the loop on the rear bulkhead is a twisted paperclip, while the U-shape door latches are a thin nail bent with needle-nose pliers, to represent the door catches left in place as lashing eyelets once the doors were removed.

 

i-zKH97WM-XL.jpg

photo. scale bungee cord to help secure the precious cargo! (...the keg is also held in place to the floor with some servo tape).

 

i-STZk9Rf-XL.jpg

photo. Willy is very happy with his new interior additions!

 

It's currently still raining, but I'll endeavour to get some posed outdoor shots of the whole vehicle together later today if I can...

Jenny x

 

 

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Well, the outdoor photos never happened (not before I had to leave for the UK again anyway), but if you've been paying attention to the homepage showroom updates recently, you'll see I did manage to take a few static shots of the 'finished' truck with all the latest accessories and modifications in place - other than replacing the driver's body with a new version* complete with boots...

*the new sprue finally arrived the day before I had to leave, so I'll paint up another body back here in the UK, and take it with me next time.

So, following on from the close up details of the accessories above, this is what the truck looks like all together!

i-ZcC49Sj-XL.jpg

photo. plenty of articulation from the 4-link suspension - the rear wheel is on top of a 330ml can, with all three other wheels still firmly on the ground.

 

i-jk5KMNV-XL.jpg

photo. I really like how the scale aluminium checker-plate looks, and it ought to tarnish with age too.

 

i-j4d6WFW-XL.jpg

photo. new hoop style front shock towers allow wider engine bay, which in turn allows the battery to mount width-ways and give valuable room in the cabin for Willy's feet!

 

i-wr4wWMR-XL.jpg

photo. decoupage headlining using Tamiya (and other) decals.

 

i-bZ4rgmg-XL.jpg

photo. rear cage stays mounted using ball-joints, then covered with Araldite 'welding' and painted black to match. Rear steering gear and axle a mirror of that up front.

 

i-LLQXczB-XL.jpg

photo. pair of ProLine scale fuel cans (expensive, but worth it) - the alloy deck panels had to be trimmed slightly so the cans could fit in the recess in front of the fuel cell.

 

i-fL3PCWt-XL.jpg

photo. my favourite nerdy scratch-built item - the battery cut-off switch! The alloy backing to the instrument panel helps it to stand out against the flat grey interior (note. the radio cassette player will also be painted in, at the same time as I replace the driver's body).

 

i-4CdpCkr-XL.jpg

photo. Vaterra K10 Ascender rear cage cut down (width and length ways) to fit the narrowed Toyota HiLux cab.

 

i-WKvk43H-XL.jpg

photo. scratch-built engine bay/inner wheel-arches and rear sub-deck assembly (including fuel cell).

 

i-ZVSB9nx-XL.jpg

photo. dented left-hand lower door a nod to the evolution of this build - early on it was more a homage to the Top Gear HiLux you may recall...

 

i-pD2qr9T-XL.jpg

photo. 2.2 size tyres, only a few of the original Mad-Gear Cliff crawler donor parts which are left now!

i-ZVWHKJf-XL.jpg

photo. 4 x ProLine spot-lamps as headlights (together with a pair of 12mm round Axial lights with red painted lenses as tail lamps).

 

i-5RX4rgr-XL.jpg

photo. long and low - the 100mm internally sprung shocks have a good degree of droop travel (especially with this build being so heavy) which helps to make the articulation look very realistic in action, and the machine extremely capable too.

As I say, I consider this build essentially finished now - other than replacing the drivers body with a newly [blue] painted version complete with boots.

Toot toot for now!

Jenny x

 

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Uh oh... not content with the primer look after all, looks like Desmond has gone a bit Top Gear again...

i-WHM3tsg-XL.jpg

More soon!

Jenny x

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OK, while I'm waiting for some paint to dry, time for another update to Desmond...

As you'll have seen from the post above, I decided that to complete my 'patriotic' trio of crawlers (including a blue Defender 90, a white Jeep), I'd really need to re-paint Desmond red again; and at the same time, take this opportunity to paint a dedicated driver figure and tweak a few scale details I'd wanted to incorporate from before - particularly as I'd been inspired with all the detailing I'd been adding to the Jeep and the D90 recently.

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photo. a few new stickers for the headlining, needed protecting!

Of course having glued in the interior checker-plate, and also fixed loads of stickers to the inside of the cab, this called for some extensive masking so any overspray wouldn't ruin the details already incorporated... fortunately Dirty Willy had only ever been tacked in with a few dabs of superglue, so he was able to be removed to give a little more room to work in.

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photo. some red rust, salt, and grey primer before the top coat - this time Tamiya Mica red (metallic), which is a slightly brighter version of the metallic red I'd used back at the beginning of this thread.

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photo. It looks brighter here than it actually is - overall the red colour is pretty much as it was before, with some defined rust patches on the wings and cabin to represent trail-wear.

 

The other thing I wasn't 100% happy with (but now am) was the rear end below the cage... While the side-panel box I'd fabricated technically worked (to fill the space, and still allow the rear servo to move without fouling even on full compression), I really wanted to add more detail there, and fundamentally try and use an oil drum as a fuel tank rather than the [simple] boxy fuel cell I'd created...

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photo. fortunately, a shorter styrene deck assembly (to mount the ProLine fuel cans) and a bit of Dremel work saw my original ideal realised!

 

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photo. back together - time to get a driver sorted...

cont.

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cont.

Part 6 - Steve Willy returns!

 

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photo. The good news it looks like a whole Willy will fit inside... ahem.

I had hoped that my tweaked engine bay and battery location (together with routing all the under-bonnet wiring as neatly as possible) would free up some valuable millimetres so that a full size Willy including his boots would fit inside above the transmission - and this would seem to be the case - result!

However, while it would have been simple enough to paint up a new body and remount him in the cabin as before, I thought I'd take the opportunity to customise him a bit more, initially deleting the moulded seat-belt harness:

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photo. I also had to chop his right wrist and insert a rubber tube, so that hand can be repositioned holding on to the roll-cage as before and then glued in place - not least as a secure way to mount the otherwise suspended driver to the shell.

 

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photo. assembling the tiny components of my spare Yeah Racing seatbelt...

 

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photo. ...and painting him up in my traditional blue overalls and yellow gardening gloves.

 

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photo. Looking good Willy, but you're no Steve McQueen... not yet anyway...

 

cont.

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